I've been playing guitar for twenty years. It's amazing to me what I've learned from youtube.

You can also jsut continually turn the volume all the way up and down, with the speakers off of course. This will clean the oxidation off from the inside.

It’s easy to get this confused but the F series is for linear faders like on a mixing board. CAIG has an Audio 9-1-1 guide on their website where they give specific recommendations by application. Quoting from that: “Unsealed pots: Rotary pots respond best to DeoxIT® D-Series 100% spray (Part No. D100S-2) or 100% liquid (Part No. D100L), depend- ing on how they’re mounted.”

Bro I feel the same way about my 2009 limited edition transoceanic blue Stiletto4 bass! Schecter makes really great instruments

What do you recommend for switches?

@@MichaelDespairs. D5 is OK for switches, but causes the carbon tracks in pots to degrade. Inside pots need fader lube F5.

Thank you for adding this comment. Many people are damaging their pots by using D5 where they should not. F5 is the only way to go for pots and faders. Too many videos showing this mistake.

Can you use it on audio interfaces?

It seems like D5 is the usual recommendation for pout cleaning and I haven’t heard of anyone having issues in my limited time looking into it. Have you had a bad experience with it?

LMAOO

it's actually a stock song

Haha that's what I thought 😂

I think it's one of the tracks youtube has that anyone can use.

IB Freely yeah I’m certain I’ve heard it on Daryl Braun’s guitar reviews channel

I know this comment is 2 years old, but I'm leaving it for anyone else reading: You shouldn't use WD40 on electronics as it leaves unwanted residue behind and it makes a mess. You should always use a proper cleaner.

@@Jose_Munguia What cleaning product do you recommend?

I'm guessing availability varies a lot between countries, so I won't go naming brands, but anything specifically labeled as contact or electronics cleaner should be ok. There actually IS an electronics cleaner under the WD40 brand and it is ok to use, but most of the time when people say "WD40" they specifically mean the lubricant. Most people don't even know there's other WD40 products.

I know DeOxit (the brand of products used in this video) is a very respected brand and I remember it being the standard among professionals in Mexico back when I lived there. I've never come across that brand in my home contry (Nicaragua), tho, but there's other brands around here.

I've been looking into the same thing. Not a lot of easily accessible clear info on this. Most people just seem to use whatever product they seem to use. It seems like at the higher end, the proper way is to first clean with a cleaner (D5), and then finish with a lubricant (F5). Even though many products claim to be a cleaner and lubricant in one. However, I've also found there seems to be several styles of potentiometer constructions, including a grease packed pot, which I don't think you're supposed to hit with a solvent cleaner, or at least have a way to put back an actual grease and not a thin viscous lubricant film of something like the F5. Some types might need a type of "dry" lubricant like a graphite (not sure if there are conductive lithium or not) or similar. Like anything I guess it depends on the quality of work, or quality of equipment you are trying to fix. At the low end for a cheap fix, people seem to used WD-40, although it will supposedly attract dust more rapidly and is less of a cleaner, but more of a lubricant that will "displace" any dirt or old lubricants. I've found some info from electronics engineers, guitar restoration experts, and vintage radio restoration hobbyists, but nothing really concise for the higher end of this stuff. If anyone has any info comment away.

I used the D5 and my knobs are all quite lubey 😂

I don't.

I bought a PT special from their website about a year ago. The thing showed up, strings rusted out, saddles heavily oxidized, and a volume knob that crackles and cuts out. It was the first and last schecter I purchased. Probably should've waited until Sweetwater had it in stock.

i would imagine they have a more robust grease straight from the factory which would be best left alone initially

Get a short piece of clear vinyl tubing with 1/4" inner diameter; most guitar and amp pots have a shaft diameter of 1/4". Slide the tube over the pot shaft, point the Deoxit "straw" down the tube, spray the Deoxit onto the shaft, put a rag underneath the tubing to catch the overspray that is now inside the tube, and remove the tube. Turn the pot from on to off and back again for a minute or two.

lighter fluid

My issue exactly

If you sweep the pot from fully-closed to wide-open and nothing comes out of your amp, then something else broken. Dirty pots should generate some noise. No noise means a wire came loose, a solder joint broke, a cap or resistor broken, etc.

I want some pot in my Grunge

Yes you can do that just make sure to put one of those star washers on the under side to keep the pot in place when you turn it,these pots were probably made for a strat that had a hole for that little nub,or someone changed them out.

That's a stud that goes in a small hole to keep pot stationary better.

Its chemistry and physics more than "luck" (although perhaps you have a couple lemon parts!) Keep trying, keep learning!!!!

rossjybuis NO! WD 40 is a water displacement oil

Yeah I think the value of the right spray is that it evaporates everything and yet WD-40 leaves a residual behind which I think then attracts dirt if I'm not mistaken you might want to fact check me on that

You can try turning it all the way up and down slowly again and again and again, about 100 times. With it off obviously. It'll fix it if it's just oxidized.

Get the cheapest contact cleaner from harbor freight. It's $9 a can and it works well

No

It’s the same thing so yes

WD40 leaves behind residue that traps dirt and makes the problem worse over time.

No