Thanks

Thanks

Thanks. Just trying to help.

All the positive cables (starter, stator, house electric) is connected to the bus bar (post). The cable from the bus bar (post) goes to the battery switch. If you separate starter from house electric, you need to be able to have the stator charge both batteries. An isolator would be required. Without the isolator, you simply have a parallel system with two different capacity batteries (bad idea). I thought about doing this, but from a practical standpoint, I found it not necessary and also an unnecessary expense. With the simple battery switch, I have a backup in case of a dead battery. That's all that's really needed. May as well keep it simple. Usually more reliable that way.

@@Drimplant Gotcha and thank-you.

Look for my high capacity video. It will show the location and installation as well as the battery and mount specs.

You're welcome.

Even though you turn off the battery, check the battery voltage. A battery tester might help. (I did a video on a battery tester I evaluated.) I've read that low voltage can cause the IBR error. Also, for me, a low voltage kept my IDF from working. But for the software reset, you'd need to get the software and dongle attachment to get into the ECM. CanDooPro.com has the decoder and software, but I think it's a little expensive at $429. Plus, if you decide to go with that, call them first and make sure you get the right product.

Yes. But it would take longer battery cables. You should measure the length and check it against a chart you can find on Google to determine the best gauge wire to use. Running it through the wiring grommet under the captain’s chair might not be possible due to the size. It’s easy to try and find out. Be prepared to drill another hole and get another grommet for the battery cables. I thought about doing that. My conclusion was that it was almost the same effort to remove the front snap panel of the console as the two twist latches to the engine bay. You can also look to mount it outside on the console, just bend the terminals on the cables to come straight out of the back instead of the sides.

Your high capacity battery may need charging.

Mine does the same thing says check key and a bunch of clicking sounds

@@johnmorgan1632 The battery needs charging. Also check for loose connections.

@@letsrolldiyauto1532 how many wires did you have going to the post that you added on the battery box?

​ @johnmorgan1632 Check my video on installing a dual battery switch. If you tried to connect the high and low capacity batteries in parallel, there's your problem. Only one battery connected at a time. The video on installing a dual battery switch will show this connection.

I really don't know. If it can be properly mounted and be secure, probably so. The SeaDoo kit has the right size battery holder, right retaining brackets and screws. Also the correct length of battery cables with attachments for the attachment points on the existing battery holder. You'd need to evaluate how much you'd save in dollars and effort going with something other than the SeaDoo kit.

@@letsrolldiyauto1532 What's the price of the kit?

@@theoldshooter9011 Check Google for the latest pricing. I've seen it from $165-$200.

@@letsrolldiyauto1532 thanks

When adding the second battery, Both are NOT connected in parallel. Only one battery is connected and therefore only the connected battery charges. Which ever battery the switch has selected is the one used for everything, including charging. While the switch itself will allow for either, none or both batteries, batteries of different capacities, like this set-up, should never be connected together (the Both setting). Nothing drastic immediately happens, but the different capacities will tend to bring the high capacity battery down to the lower capacity level. Check other KZfaq videos on this.

Lmk please. I'm considering purchasing a Switch, but I want to be able to mount a trolling motor. Options seem pretty limited. Thx!

Where is video ;-)

Thanks