Thanks so much! We use SLU all the time, this is our approach, and we make a living doing this.

Thank you! We should have noted that rinsing the wet primer off the broom is best practice. We've learned that some primer, like the kind for anti-fracture membrane, can be extremely tenacious once it has dried. SLU primer tends to be mild when dry. Thanks again!

Thank you! We're gonna try to put more together.

Thank you very much!

so do you have to relevel a ship every time it hits a wave? With so much leveling I imagine you have sank a few of them

@@temujinkhan6326 I don’t think you understand how the ship operates . You most be a kid . For your 411 the ship has to be at port for us to self level . We communicate with the bridge to make sure is upright Because some ports are lower and the captain tilts the ship to get the gangway out .

@@George-gb2zn Your brain must have completely rotted away if you cant see sarcasm when you see/hear it

Thank you Richard! The paddle comes with the Kraft kit. It is referred to as the Oval Mixer paddle and can be purchased separately from places like Home Depot online. Most paddles will suffice except for the box paddle. Box paddles are too aggressive. We do on occasion use the RUBI TOOLS Mortar Mixer Paddle M-120-R 3H. Thanks again!

Thanks 👍

Thank you. I can understand how some people in their videos want to make it look very casual, but we didn't want to convey that as taking it too lightly introduces high dollar and high labor mistakes. This video is exactly how we've done it over and over again for the last ten years. This is the recipe that works for us.

@@trendsettertilestone9602 thank you for this video. I saw your kit on WHITE CAP Supplies and I’m pretty sure I’m gonna buy it for my project. I have two questions though; with the leveling rake, what is the lowest you’ll go and how is it better or different than using a straight edge? Thank you in advance.

@@JoseMedina-ms5jg You're welcome, and thank you for the questions. Our gauge rake is almost always at one quarter of an inch. There have been instances when I have reduced it to three sixteenths but I can't say I have done that often. I wouldn't apply anything thinner as it may force an additional application and that is something I avoid because it adds time to the schedule. While you could use a straightedge, it is more cumbersome, may require an additional person, and is really a technique for a different application. Straight edges are used for dry pack or fat mud applications which require finesse. SLU just doesn't need that much care. You are gonna place it with the rake, break the tension with the smoother, and it is going to handle some of the finer details as it continues to settle. When someone uses a straight edge for SLU there applying the technique they know to the wrong product. There is no benefit to it. It can however be used to determine the flatness of the substrate prior to the SLU application if you don't have a laser.

@@trendsettertilestone9602 Wow GREAT response thank you so much for explaining the differences between the two. This really helps me in determining which route I want to take in leveling my substrate before applying my LVP. THANK YOU SO MUCH.

Thank you for the compliment , I can tell by your comment that you are someone who dabbles in precision like myself! I don't know exactly why, but I was not a fan of spiked rollers. They do a good job of breaking surface tension but I guess I learned to "read" the floor really well during placement and the smoothers just seemed to serve me better, especially if I pull the smoother in as many directions as possible in a given area. Another key thing is knowing exactly how bad the subfloor is in several locations. If I know where the high point is prior to the pour, I will keep looking at that spot during the pour. If it seems to bulge or be high at the time of the pour I use the smoothers to take the material away and drag it into low sections. A spike roller may not help to truly relocate an abundance of SLU in one location. I have been through it all with SLU. I gotta say small failures and a lot of practice is the only thing that taught me how to do it. By time I took a course on SLU from the NTCA I could have hosted the class. Check out this KZfaq video I was part of in 2020. Funny story about SLU's. check it out at starting around 28:39 of the video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sL2piLmHqdXHiGw.html Thank you for the comment!

Thank you for the compliment on our video! You can spot correct areas around your floor, but I can tell you over the years I found most of the time it was not worth it. The improvement may only be marginal and can sometimes feel like you didn't do anything. Since your floor is wavy, You should lean towards covering the entire floor. I usually add SLU partially to the high spot and some to the nearest low. Pulling SLU into a low spots is easier than dragging it over a high spot to the next low spot, so from a high spot I distribute it to the surrounding low areas. This is usually only necessary when I'm dealing with differences exceeding 3/8ths of an inch. otherwise I just treat the floor as if it's already flat and just distribute the SLU in the easiest manor that backs me up towards the exit. A good way to manage extreme undulations is to utilize screws like Tapcons, on the concrete when working with SLU. This way you monitor your progress in real time during the pour. The technique is seen in this video; kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m6qXadObqZaUYaM.html Three people would be better for 400 ft. One person should be on the mixing duties, adding product, mixing materials and helping to move batches as needed, with assistance. Person #2 is the placer and uses the rakes and smoothers and is in complete management of the pace. Person #3 is the in-between that handles communication between the mixer and placer. He also makes sure the placer has what he needs at any moment and that the batches move to the placer without interrupting his progress. Get two people to watch this video with you, assign each one a position, and crush this thing!

You are so Awesome! The comment section is almost as useful as the actual video as you get to hear details/problems that other people are having, so your helpful (and timely!) replies are much appreciated. Cheers from Canada!

With a little plagiarism. I’m just being humorous.

You have to think of it like this; If you have enough SLU material in the space, meaning the rake is set between the average to maximum amount of correction needed, the abundance of SLU will settle with more material in the lowest points with less on the highs. Following the rake and tensioner, gravity takes over. The gauge rake set at one consistent height is not to achieve that height but more so to evenly distribute SLU. The SLU will then find the average. The ability of SLU to flow is what makes it so helpful as opposed to other cementitious materials. Using too little material could have a poor result similar to what you indicated in your question. Thank you

Thanks!

Thank you for the compliment! I know one contractor in Texas, but he's in San Antonia. Cox Tile . The best thing for you to do is visit the NTCA website here: www.tile-assn.com/search/custom.asp?id=2759 Just enter your zip code to find an installer that is part of the National Tile Contractors Association. Another great resource is the CTEF www.ceramictilefoundation.org/find-certified-tile-installers Ceramic Tile Education Foundation is also perfect for finding an installer that is top notch. Also just as easy as entering your zip code. Don't forget to see if your contractor has a local license if required in your area. Thanks!

Hi, if the adhesive/glue you are using indicates that it can be applied over concrete without primer then the procedure would be the same over SLU. This particular SLU is very absorptive and I wouldn't see a need for a primer to increase bond. However... A primer is sometimes used over an SLU to create a vapor barrier and sometimes even to slow down the absorption so an adhesive will not "dry out" too fast on top of the SLU. With that said though... In most instances a primer will not hurt, but if the primer is a vapor retarder and the floor covering is impervious, such as vinyl, putting glue type adhesive on top of the primer and underneath the floor covering is like putting the glue back in the bucket. You need the substrate or the floor covering, preferably both though, to have absorption or air to cure the adhesive. When I'm in doubt I always call the technical number on the adhesive I choose. Thank you for the compliment!

Hi, Laticrete offers NXT Level Plus which has a higher strength and is fiber reinforced but it's not meant to be used as a finished flooring surface either. I don't believe it is a polish-able type. Some concrete types can be polished, and this is very important because it makes the surface stronger and more stain resistant. In my opinion for your basement I would recommend you use NXT Level Plus to correct the majority of the concrete subfloor's irregularities. After that has cured I would install a self leveling epoxy coating. The cement SLU would save some cost, whereas if you used only the epoxy it could get expensive if the irregularities are great. You can choose any finish or color that you would like in the epoxy, you can even get a mix that looks like polished concrete! It would be much more durable and stain resistant than a cementitious SLU. Thank you!

@@trendsettertilestone9602 Ah, thank you so much! We were loosely planning on a two-part epoxy in a bright color to keep the basement brighter, you've helped confirm that decision. I very much appreciate your recommendation.

Most of the time you can split the difference. You have a deviation of 5/8ths, setting your gauge anywhere from a 1/4 inch to 3/8ths should work to increase the overall flatness. Usually if the floor has that much deviation I generally start on the highest point and drag the SLU into the deeper areas, instead of trying to pull SLU out of the deepest points.The SLU will do some of the work as it flows from the highest point into the lower ones. I would probably set the gauge rake at a 1/4 inch for your application because the product is expensive and at 3/8 gauge you will be working a lot more for a marginal benefit. A trick you can do is drill Tapcons into the floor around the room. I think Laticrete sells what they refer to as leveling pegs. The top of the tapcons should all be at the same height, either with a level or laser. You can then add SLU to the area and when you reach the top of the Tapcon, you know you have enough material in that area. This however is the expensive way! It can make the floor level, but level in general is not needed. You can add additional coats if after your first application you find there is room for improvement. I haven't had to do that in a long time, I don't remember how long it is until you have to prime the coat you just did to accept the follow up coat. Thanks for commenting, I encourage you to call Laticrete if your unsure. I have called them over the years and there Tech support has always put me in the right direction.

@@trendsettertilestone9602 Thanks--very helpful!

The foam around the edges is used to retain the SLU where it might slip further under the sill plates and it also provides room for expansion. It should be stapled up, I couldn't find my stapler, so we taped it up and had some areas fold over. The foam can be put on low enough so the SLU rests on a small amount of it and the weight of the SLU prevents the material from pushing through if there is a gap behind the foam We leave it in place until after the tile install and then cut the excess prior to baseboard installation. The room in the video was small and could probably get away without the foam but it's a good idea when possible. I have doubled up the foam to increase rigidity, along with the staple gun, and found the foam to stay put. It is possible to apply the SLU at different heights by using dams and sectioning off the different areas. I have used foam board, cut to the length I need, with a height of about three inches, put in place with a bead of caulking where the foam meets the floor and along the sides. I might put a bucket of water behind the foam just for support and then pour the section. I can then pour the next section to whatever height I want after removing the bucket of water. After both areas are dry I just cut the foam board where it is exposed on top and leave the rest of the foam in place. We usually have Schluter Kerdi boards around so that's what I use. Thanks!

Hi, you should not mix your SLU with less water to thicken it up. This will only make things more difficult, reduce coverage, and potentially create humps that the smoother cannot overcome. I almost always mix my ratio of water to product at the highest available water ratio. This provides a little more time to work and makes the product easier to rake. Do not mix your product outside of the manufacturers guidelines in regards to water and powder ratio. Most of the time I target the average height discrepancy to flatten the floor. To level the floor your target would be slightly higher than the average of high to low deviations on the subfloor. So you are 10-11mm in gauge rake height to level the floor, if you correct all at once. Consecutive pours are sometimes reserved for larger areas with greater depth that are not utilizing a truck delivery with a pump system. Small areas should be one pour when possible, multiple pours in the same area should be considered for individuals at a higher skill level. I understand this may be counterintuitive, but multiple pours actually increase complexity. The height of your pour would not meet my threshold for multiple pours and we work with levelers on a weekly basis. While you are raking keep pulling the SLU from the high points and drag it to the low points. The SLU will continue to flow down to the lows after you have stopped raking. Provided your floor is properly primed, the water ratio is on the higher end, and you work at a fast enough pace. Thank you

Hi Chris, we're glad this video is helping you to be more comfortable with tackling your project. Using SLU is one of the easiest parts of our work week and it can be very satisfying turning a terrible floor into a suitable substrate. The process for your 2K sq ft is totally the same, however since it's your first time using dams NEAR doorways is a very good idea. It will slow you down though. Here is a tip when using dams to separate areas. Do not put the dam directly in the door way. Make your dam a few feet away from the doorway, whether inside or outside. Doorways are very important areas to have flat. You'll have tile cuts to slide under jams later and any inconsistency in that area is gonna translate into a pain in the ass later whether you have to shave down a hump or fight with a 24 inch length tile. Your SLU will turn out a lot nicer at the doorway if you give it the room it needs. Installing tile along straight walls or out in the field is easy, the real tile work is done at doorways and other transitional areas. You can put a dam near the master bedroom entry, install SLU in that room and then allow it about two hours to dry, remove the dam and then continue off the dry SLU. If you are careful not to overlap the fresh SLU over the dry, you won't have any hump or material to remove in that area. But this is a one area at a time approach. The next alternative is to dam off all the areas near every doorway, pour each area one after the next and then remove the dams when the rooms are dry to the touch and connect all of the rooms to a main hallway or shared area. The problem with this alternative is the SLU height in each room may be slightly different and you may find yourself removing humps at the areas where the dams were. I feel the first alternative is better. It will give you the chance to do an area that won't overwhelm you and let you get a feel for how quick to move to tie in those batches. After you guys take a breather and feel good about what you did remove the dam and pour the rest of the home all at once from back to front. Another tip, make sure you dump all of the SLU out of the container or bucket. Don't leave some in the bucket while raking the rest. The chemical process in drying SLU involves heat. The SLU needs to be dumped out and spread right away to alleviate some of the heat otherwise it will not flow as well. A bucket is an oven to SLU's or epoxy. I like mud boots more than spiked shoes. While the mud boots are messier and you have to be careful not to destroy some of the beautiful work, spike shoes are more likely to cause you to break your ass. Falling or slipping on spikes is much easier to do and they tend to slow you down because you have to take more care when stepping. Make sure the guys mixing do not get too far ahead of you. You don't want mixed batches sitting too long waiting for you to finish placing the previous one. They have to understand how fast or slow your moving in a given area so they do their part appropriately. Communication is important because your mixing area might be all the way on the other side of the house. After you've done your planning and have staged your mixing area, and are about to begin placement, you will go from critical thinking into the warrior mindset, this is normal, embrace it, and crush this thing!

Thank you, no this product is only appropriate when it is covered with tile. It does not have the durability, but Laticrete does make products that are applied similar, but are meant as a stand alone finish. This is one option; www.laticrete.com/en/products/nxt-level-dl

Hi, you can spot correct areas, but you'll have to determine if it's more to your advantage to grind down highs or fill in lows. In some instances adding SLU can interfere at transition points like yours and you will probably sacrifice some consistency in the finished floors flatness if you spot correct and leave the threshold and door as-is. If the threshold can be removed and the doors cut, applying SLU over the floors entirety would be your best approach. If that's not practical, a combination of grinding highs and filling in lows would be the next best option. One other thing; there are better products for spot correcting that can have a feather edge so there's no ledge or bump where your patch meets surrounding concrete. laticrete.com/en/surface-preparation/nxt/repairs/skim-lite This product would be more appropriate for patching, it would require troweling or flashing for its application. SLU's are too wishy-washy when it comes to smaller patchs. Thank you!

@@trendsettertilestone9602 Exactly this!

This is probably the product you're looking for; www.laticrete.com/en/products/nxt-level-dl

Yes, the gauge rake may need to be set to a greater depth, but generally dips and humps are part of every correction. The rake is a dispersing or placement tool, the self leveler will fall to the deeper areas, it just needs help from the rake.

Hi, the bags are 50lbs. each. Thanks for watching!

You can use 5 gallon buckets for 180 sq ft no problem. We have used 5 gallon buckets when we accidentally left the barrel at the shop. But you have to use a good mixing paddle. If you use a square box paddle type it is going to lead to a poor mix. The paddle type can make a big difference. The Kraft paddle is too long for 5 gallon buckets but this Rubi one works good and we use it all the time when we have some small pours. www.contractorsdirect.com/Rubi-Glue-Mixing-Paddles Bare in mind that the rubi paddle is a screw in type, not a standard chuck type. You may need an adapter or just a paddle similar in design to the Rubi. I think Rubi makes a similar one for 1/2 inch chuck. Thanks

@@trendsettertilestone9602 thank. I went with the Kraft barrel :). I have a mixer but is too short so I will look for longer ones with similar design. Thanks again.

Hi, I see that you posted this comment some time ago, I'm sorry I didn't see it sooner. The deviations being 3/8ths and how to approach them really boils down to how far apart are the deviations, and what size is the tile? If the tile is smaller than 15 inches on any given side than the floor should have a flatness of 1/4 inch in 10ft long, more than 15 inches and this would be 1/8th inch in ten feet. The larger the tile, the more these guidelines matter. I have found that I will average out the inconsistencies. If the floor has a maximum deviation of 3/8ths in 10 linear feet and I set the gauge rake to a 1/4 inch, this will usually bring my floor to 1/8 inch in ten feet. I go right over the high point, pulling material away towards the lower areas. This avoids build up on that high spot and "encourages" the material to seek level towards the lower point. I have rarely applied SLU at, or higher than the maximum deviation for any tile smaller than 5 ft long on any given length. It is not needed nor cost effective. If the tile is a thin gauge porcelain panel that is 4ft x 10ft, that is a different story. At that size, and thinness, you do not need the headaches that come with any variation of inconsistency. While the floor being level is not required for tile that size, shooting for level would certainly have the best chance of meeting 1/8th inch in 10 ft. The more you use this product, the more predictable it will become. I do not have a precise formula for figuring out the specifics towards the amount of material or the set height of the rake. It's one of those things that are hard to put into words because my assessment of a substrate has become intuitive and the practical hands on ability adapts to each new messed up substrate we encounter, and they can all be so different. Thank you

The sill seal stays in there. We cut the excess off after the tile work is complete. It helps preserve the perimeter joint around the installation similar to backer rod.

Thank you, I can understand. I was trying to convey that if you don't attack with authority it may get the best of you. With the right tools and a planned approach it won't go bad, provided you don't take on too much square footage.

As far as the drill itself, if it's a 1/2 inch chuck and does not exceed 650RPM, then yes. But as for the mixing paddle, no. The mixing paddle with the kit is much longer so the majority of the mix is being mixed at the same time, and it also draws less air into the bucket while mixing. The paddle is important for consistent results.

The only installer I know in North Florida is Greg Michael. michaelscustomtile.com/ If he doesn't install in your area the best thing to do is to visit the NTCA website. www.tile-assn.com/search/custom.asp?id=2759 This link takes you to the find a contractor page. Just enter your zipcode and it will list all the NTCA installers within the radius you select.

The dark patches are not always an indication that the product is not dry, the SLU may have been mixed inconstantly. If a fan or heat on the area does not dry it out you may have a broken vapor barrier below the slab. Vinyl should not be installed on a slab that exhibits high RH value. Vinyl traps the moisture which can weaken a bond with the glue causing edges to curl from one piece to another. You may need a vapor barrier or epoxy sealer to prevent the transmission of moisture to the glue and vinyl.

A spiked roller is fine for the final pass. But keep in mind a spiked roller not only breaks the tension and eliminates air voids, but it also distributes or displaces material like the rake. If movement of the material is no longer needed sometimes the roller can take material away from where you want it, unless the substrate was somewhat flat to begin with. On some jobs you could use a spiked roller from beginning to end. In my opinion if you choose the rake, then the spiked roller has no reason to follow the rake. When I use the rake I am actively placing more SLU in the deep areas. I have found the roller to be consistent in application but the rake was what was available when I was learning and I have stuck with it.

@@trendsettertilestone9602 Thanks for the reply . I watched a video by Ardex and the installer used a gage rake , smoother, squeegee and finally a spiked roller. I thought it was overkill and needing a big tool investment. It’s good to see someone else’s methods…

If you're going to set the gauge rake at one quarter of an inch that means you'll get about 22 sq ft per bag, so you'll need 24 bags of product to cover 526 sq ft. The undulations in your substrate may warrant more or less quantity of material. I would call Laticrete's technical line, give them some more details and they can provide you with a better estimate.

Hi John, most of the time the sill seal is stapled to the wall. We used blue tape because the wallboard on our job was very close to the floor and so the sill seal had very little flex. If there is a gap exceeding a 1/2 inch from the bottom of the wallboard to the subfloor, additional layers of sill seal can be used to improve the seal rigidity. We have used backer rod in place of sill seal when the gap below the wallboard is large. It's available in different diameters and is sometimes easier to install as it is just stuffed into the gap. The seal can be attached to the floor with silicone, silicone being better than acrylic caulk because it would not be as effected as the years go by from moisture vapor which can otherwise become a food source for mold. A quarter inch of seal sill attached to the floor is more than enough. We rarely attach the seal to the floor, only because of the additional time is not always practical in a real world schedule. In a perfect world the sill seal prevents all of the SLU from getting through. This is not always the case and there are times following a pour when we must remove excess material after it has dried. Thanks

Hi, whenever you install cement board, or any other type of board onto a plywood substrate, thin-set mortar needs to be used along with the screws. The thin-set mortar under the board is not used to increase adhesion, it is used to limit vertical movement that the board may experience if the the screws work themselves loose. 1/4 inch board can often leave the screw head resting too low within the board if the screw was originally over driven. It only takes minor traffic to free 1/4 inch board from the screw head, and at that point the board is sliding up and down the screw. The sound can be from materials rubbing or from air that is being pushed through the assembly. If you had installed thin-set mortar and just forgot to mention that, then the plywood subfloor is most likely deflecting. That would require more work than is outlined below. I would recommend cutting out the section where the sound is, reinstall that section of 1/4 inch board with thin-set mortar under it, screwing down the board while the thin-set mortar is fresh, prime the top of the board and re install the self leveler in that area. Some Laticrete SLU's require lath screwed to the floor prior to the application of the SLU. Read the bag you used and be sure that your product doesn't require lath under the SLU.

No, the rake distributes the material evenly and then gravity directs the material, by taking some material from the high points and moving it to the low points. One depth on the rake may seem counter intuitive, but the high flow-ability of this product is what makes it work so well. It will not stay exactly where you placed it, it's not supposed to, it will seek out level when you cant see it. As it finds equilibrium you will have a flatter floor.

Yes. If the floor is out in flatness by more than a 1/4 of an inch in ten linear feet; It does not meet the standard for flatness as referenced in the TCNA Handbook, that is If the tile is smaller than 15 inches on any given length. Once the tile is larger than 15 inches, the standard becomes 1/8th of an inch in 10 linear feet. Variations in the subfloor should not exceed 1/16th of an inch in 2 linear feet. This is the standard a professional contractor should follow. Making corrections with thinset as you install tile increases the failure rate as well as the longevity of the installation, and of course the aesthetics of the floor become compromised due to mortar shrinkage/slippage. Leveling is not the goal for most installations. Increasing the overall flatness is. The floor in this video was not leveled, just corrected in overall flatness.

Primer on top of the finished SLU would only be applied if too much time has elapsed since the first application of SLU dried and you need the application thicker than originally installed. I only apply primer on top of SLU if more than 2 hours has elapsed and I need to add additional SLU. It's worth noting that additional primer on top of SLU not only reduces the likely hood of a cold joint between applications, it more importantly lets the next application flow much easier on top of the previous one. SLU with a reluctance to flow is a nightmare. If in any doubt, contact Laticrete technical support. 1.800.243.4788 EXT 1235 Doesn't matter what I say, TCNA, NTCA, or anybody else, the manufacturer is the only one that can be sure how to handle your specific application. NXT Primer is only for NXT level. It would not be used to increase bond for thin-set mortar or other cementitious material. You could use any other type of primer on top of SLU if you needed to increase bond strength for other materials. That would be unlikely though since NXT Level is highly absorbent and promotes a high bond on its own. I hope this helps, thank you.

@@trendsettertilestone9602 reason for asking primer using after is, I want apply epoxy paint on the cement for better bonding or sealant. Its for the garage floor. 😊

@@kan815k I see, yes indeed if you are putting a coating on that typically requires a primer than that coatings primer must be used prior to your application of the coating. You may want to check out Laticretes other SLU's since your application will be in a garage and will not have a traditional tile covering. You may need a higher Psi rating since tile will not be protecting the SLU, so to speak. Check out this product: laticrete.com/en/surface-preparation/nxt/self-leveling-overlays/nxt-level-dl This one is also worth a look: laticrete.com/en/surface-preparation/nxt/self-leveling-overlays/nxt-level-sp I have not used them, but the process of application is probably very similar to what you saw in our video. Thank!

@@trendsettertilestone9602 Thank you so much for all the info. Keep up the good work.

No, backer rod can stay.

We are using the DeWalt in this video. The Kraft kit comes with the paddle.

Do you know what model I am looking to do a project and want to get a good one

This is the best type of paddle for mixing SLU www.contractorsdirect.com/ardex-mixing-paddle This is a link to the whole kit that comes with a mixing paddle. www.contractorsdirect.com/kraft-tool-self-leveling-kit

Sorry I’m wondering about the model of the dewalt drill being used to mix.

@@jacoblee3498 This is the one in the video www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-9-Amp-1-2-in-Spade-Handle-Drill-Concrete-Mud-Mixer-DW130V/100072312

pretty much make sure your product is made for timber floors so it has some flex

Haha, the bucket is actually on top of something small so it looks like its hovering. The bucket was just there to contain wires and cables that were coming out of the wall.

Paint roller is also good! The broom is a little more helpful when the surface is pitted or has some existing thin-set, to get the primer into the nooks.

I totally understand! Keep the pace consistent and you'll be alright. Teamwork makes it much easier too.

Spike rollers are a great tool. I like the sled because I personally get a better "read" on whats happening but spike rollers are definitely a good option or nice addition to the rest of the tools.Thank you

Yes you can. The process is the same but you should use Laticrete's Prime and Bond instead of the primer used in the video. Typical primer for SLU is for concrete or wood applications. Prime and Bond is specifically for hard to bond applications like existing ceramic tile.

@@trendsettertilestone9602 how long will this last me on tile over tile ??? Many years ?

@@Therealpeter10 Tile over tile is a gamble. While the SLU works and can last as long as any tile installation even when installed over existing tile, your new tile assembly will now be dependent on the old tile installation below it. Even if the old installation is sound, solid and has at a minimum, perimeter joints, there is no telling if it will maintain it's integrity for the next 30 years. Any problems that the existing tile floor has, or develops, will be telegraphed to the new tile layer on top. People do have success with tile over tile and in Europe it is very commonplace. You may need an evaluation from a local tile expert on whether or not your existing floor is a good candidate. A new floors longevity is sometimes a roll of the dice when installed on top of existing tile.

Paint roller is great when the floor is smooth. Brush works better to get into crevices when some thin set was left behind during the demo.

Great installer in Tucson is John Mourelatos. We worked together in a committee with the NTCA, very knowledgeable! mourelatostile.com/

@@trendsettertilestone9602 Thank you very much!

Because it needs help, it isn't water.

It’s called self leveling because you level it yourself! 😝

Because it would be a bad marketing decision to call it “assist-leveling”

It is most definitely not self leveling, none of them are, you have to break the surface tension or it stays where you dump it

The name of the product would be bad marketing if it says “almost self-leveling.. “ It’s self-assist leveling lol

Spike shoes do work good, they can sometimes slip worse than mud boots, since they make such little contact with the floor. Stepping in the batch can sometimes be necessary.

This product makes it so the installation of tile goes faster and it saves on thin-set mortar. Thin set mortar using a half inch trowel usually covers a little over 35 sq ft, if a SLU is used prior to the installation of the tile the thin-set mortar can usually cover a little over 55 sq ft. There can be an offset in cost due to reduced labor and adhesive quantities. $60 a bag is a lot. It's about $32 a bag here. I can understand how a material at that price could affect your bid and cause you to lose out on work because others may forgo the step.

@@trendsettertilestone9602 I totally agree with everything you said.

You're kidding right? C'mon man, I dabble in details but we're not building a Swiss watch here. I'll tell you this, it's not impossible. You move the tape measure from side to side until you see the laser line is straight across the lines on the tape. Some aspects of construction are performed in ways where practicality overrides precision. You should applaud us for showing the everyday real world approach instead of us trying to over complicate things to sound important. Hate to be that guy, but you know, that's the guy you are, and maybe the only way you understand. All that said, I get your point, and yes there is a more precise way. To say it is incorrect though is disingenuous.

@@trendsettertilestone9602 Get yourself a 16-line laser level and lay it on the floor in the doorway/entry way. Mine shoots a 360 line on the walls starting at 1/4" from the floor around the perimeter of the room. The line will highlight any high spots in the pour as you go. If you see the lasers line floating on the mud itself simple work the area until you see the line appear on the wall/s again.

@@fartpooboxohyeah8611 That looks like a very good method to determine how flat the SLU is during the pour. I like it, that takes it one step further to make sure the placement is correct!

There's no way any decent laser level is that off at that distance

You're welcome!

lol

How then do you quote the client 😮