Mr Pete is an absolute star and I wish I was an engineer so that I could appreciate him even more. Thank you Sir. Best Wishes, Brendan.

I recently bought a SB9A from an estate. The poor old 4 Jaw took a couple of days to refurbish starting with Evaporust followed by a bunch of hand work. Very gratifying to see it shine and function again.

Mr. Pete, you’re a national treasure! Great tip on the speed hand for a chuck key 👍🏻

Great tutorial Mr. Pete. As a beginner these are helpful for me. Thanks for sharing.

Hey Mr Pete our morning coffee tastes better when watching your videos thanks for making our days

Thanks, Teach! As always, I learned something. Hope to see you at Florida Flywheelers.

Mr Pete, I recently cleaned the 5 chucks I own ... each of them almost as old as you and I. One of my mine is a 7in 3 jaw Brown & Sharpe mounted on an indexing head that was probably built during the Second German War. I've owned it over 25 years and never used it, but I decided to clean it any way. This chuck has always been a curiosity to me because it has a grease nipple in a counter sunk hole right in its face. When I took it apart, sure enough, it was packed with grease. So I decided to turn curiosity into action and find out about grease in lathe and mill chucks. It turns out there are a number of chucks whose manufacturer require get grease instead of lube. Kitagawa and Bison to name a couple. One chuck manufacturer insists that NOT using grease reduces the clamping power of its chucks by 30%!!!! What's more, there are a lot of places that make or sell grease formulated for lubing lathe and mill chucks. Before the haters start blasting away, I hope they take the time to do a little research first ... and before they scream about high speed CNC operation ... please remember my old Brown & Sharpe predates CNC by about 80 years and probably never got up to 1 rpm in its whole life.

Wow, you've been releasing a lot of videos lately. I LOVE IT! The more the merrier! I watch & "Like" them all. Rod

Thanks Mr. Pete! You jus reminded me that I need to clean mine before i use it again. 😄

You and Joe Pie have some real good videos on chucks. Thank you.

Safety glasses are a must when blowing out the threads behind each jaw....the compacted heavy little chips fly out of those threads really fast back into your face.

"most of that will end up on my shoulder sooner or later". Truer words are rarely spoken.

I actually learned something. I never would have thought those circles were used as a rough guide to line-up the work.

Dry Graphite in spray cans seems to work well as a chuck lubricate due to it coating and lubricating the metal without attracting chips, etc. It comes out of the can as a liquid due to a carrier something like Brakeclean that quickly evaporates, leaving a coat of fine graphite that appears to go into the grain of metal. There are probably several brands available, but "Blaster" brand from Ace Hardware is the one I used.

"Skeletal remains". LMFAO!!!

You will live forever because of ur videos.... Prosperity will never die ! !

Lyle, you reminded me of a funny one when you mentioned the two "generations" of chucks. "How much wood would a metal chuck chuck if a metal chuck could chuck wood"?

Well this video is timely, I was in the workshop today checking my 4 jaw, thinking I must clean it, and having a break put youtube on and Lo and Beyold! your latest vid, so thanks for this Mr Pete, now to get on with doing it!

I always get a kick out of the 36” atlas chuck on my big Monarch and thinking about how many atlas lathes worth of steel are in that one chick.

A good video to watch after spending my eight hours in the Salt mine. Thanks Lyle have a good day.

Good info Mrpete thanks for sharing

Good morning to you and your skeletal remains. Actually your looking pretty good and I do look forward to watching all your videos. Please keep this between you and I. You are my favorite Utube creator. Thank you.

Thank you. And good job.

Thank you for sharinr.

I have had that problem with brake clean a lot lately! With different brands even.

Thanks Lyle, much appreciated

My 6 in 3 jaw needs cleaning but have been afraid to take it apart. Looking forward to seeing your 3 jaw video.

It's nice to hear an American refering to "swarf" 😁😂. I thought it was just a Brit term 🤔.

Thank you for all the great experience and practical remedies.

Great video. I also try and get some lubricant on the slots in the jaws (or the bottom of the 'T-slots' in the body).

Thanks for the video

Morning Lyle. Good video; My 4 jaws could use more TLC, I'm 13 years younger than you and looking more skeletal with each year. I hope you received your package in one piece from the USPS. Enjoy it and take care. Jim.

I stamp numbers on all of my jaws. Makes keeping track of adjustments and if you take something out you can just loosen 2 and then tighten just those 2 when you put the part back in to get you close

How about a video on removing and replacing the gap on a gap bed lathe. I'm a little chicken to do it on my own, I was hoping for your guidance and experience. I absolutely love your videos thank you!

I always like to put some oil on the bright metal before storing away tools. It stops the browning of the finish from hanging around, yeah it can spray you when you spin it up but it won't be that shop brown finish.

I love your videos. How do you remove those screws underneath the jaws? I’m afraid I’ll screw up. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge with us. Paul

Hi Mr pete, i was wondering if there was a way to repair the threaded portion of the jaws? My 8” was a bit mistreated by the previous owners.

thank you Mr Pete

Another decade has passed, I think that grease can is 60 years old. I used crank an old tractor with a crank but never got much use with a speed handle.

Large Atlas 4-jaw could use some more concentric rings on its face. Let me think, what would be good for making more???? Also, the spray can has a bad valve or smegma in it, a piece of bent coat hanger, flatten/file it smooth, and give the valve a good push tho clear it or re-seat it.

If that's skeletal remains....we are all in trouble! lol You're smarter than most reactors put together! 😁

Always a god talk on here...👍

Hey Bubba, ya think there might be a way a fella could put the extra lines in the face ?

Nice cleanup, I prefer a mod paste for the Lube or Antiseez nickel high temp.

Hello, I saw die makers squares for the first time on your channel. Thank you. I purchased a Lufkin 138, promptly took it apart to clean it, and am having trouble putting it back together. 4 pieces: there is the pin, the knob you turn with your fingers, a collet, and a spring. I slide the spring over the threaded part of the pin, slide the collet over the spring ensuring bump on pin slips into slot on collet. I Push that assembly into the square, and screw on the knob. is that wrong? When you loosen the screw to move the blade, shouldn't there be some pressure on the blade so it slides with slight friction? Apologies for reaching out to you, but I really can't find info online! Thank you!

Great video Mr. Pete. Surprised the wife's toothbrush didn't make it into the video. Do you have a video on removing chucks from a threaded spindle?

As always, these type vid's remind me I need to make time to service the 3 & 4 ones on the Big Leblonde. Have you got word on Tom Knopp's tragic Shop Fire? Please visit Hill Top Machine Works, and give him your support during these trying time. I could happen to the best of us, and gave ole Bear a wake up call (@@)!

Lyle, on the tools section of Craigslist Chicago there is something slightly unusual (At least to me). It's a JT Slocomb double barrel micrometer. Never seen nor heard of one. What gives??

Mr. Pete You are my teacher. I do watch Adam and he is a good backup, but you are my teacher. The other 4 or 5 machinists I watch are strictly for extra credit.

I find I have bigger problems with chips in my scroll chucks. They seem to eat the chips and cause bigger problems.

Howdy! How do you keep a chuck from rusting in a non-climate controlled shop?

Mr. Pete Help, I have a Skinner 4 jaw B-108-TDP the chuck needs cleaned I have no idea how to get it apart any ideas?

When I redid the 4 jaw on my South Bend I completely disassembled it getting the retainers out for the jaw screws was a pain and getting them back in straight was a bigger pain If I can avoid it in the future I will.

Nice video, but I don’t understand why people use grease on any slow moving machine parts, lathe chucks, drill chucks,vices etc etc….it just acts like a magnet for dust and metal chips… All that is needed is an occasional light oiling,…I use 3 in one… That’s all I’ve ever used in 50 years of hobby engineering, car restoration etc.. With constant high speed moving parts, bearings etc…yes, use the recommendation lubricant. I’ve restored numerous old seized lathe and drill chucs, and the majority were completely gummed up with a mixture of hardened grease and crud…having never been serviced in their well abused lives.. Using a light oil makes it so much easier to clean, using a brake cleaner spray or white spirits, and then a re coating with oil..

The chuck could use a once over with the wife's toothbrush. Just a thought