I’d didn’t make my day!

The pleasure is mine, Ritchard!

I love the ups! Not the biggest fan of the downs. 👎

He definitely keeps it real. I Love his videos.

Haha! Actually, you just reminded me I wanted to take them down this weekend. No joke, I’m going right now while I’m thinking about it. When you see they’re not there, you can take credit.

Hello.

You’re not so bad yourself, Kurt!

Haha! I’m getting that a lot. Folks are screaming at their screens. “What are you doing?!” Thank you my friend. Happy to be of service.

⁠@@GarageFabdon’t beat yourself up too bad, prone to have more minor brain farts while trying to work and simultaneously create entertaining content. Happy new year bro! Here’s to 2024 and making big progress on projects

That’s insanely flattering, Greg, thank you. If you’re interested in learning how those welds are made, you might find this video valuable. MIG Like Mankandy: Techniques for Stacking Dimes with a MIG Welder kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jJdddadiv5bPf3k.html Cheers my friend!

That’s a deep question! I think anyone that claims to greet their failures with a smile is full of 💩. My reaction depends greatly on the specifics of each case. If I’m in a hurry I’m much more annoyed than if I’m not. If it’s the 5th time I’ve made the same mistake I’m furious. Sometimes the fault is so ridiculous I can’t help but laugh. I do however have a deep belief that failure is large part of learning, is natural, and is not an indication that I’m stupid. After the initial frustration wears off (usually very quickly) I can absolutely smile and move forward.

I’m at a loss but I’m confident Justin will be able to steer me in the right direction. Thank you! See you soon.

I knew and laughed myself. Tink! 😂

Haha! That happens often to me as well. “Is that Justin looking in my windows again?” Then I hear creepy heavy breathing. “Yup!”

In hindsight I should’ve done exactly that, Jake. I already needed to modify the rear of the tunnel. Changing the trans angle rather than simply matching the diff as I did will also greatly reduce the U joint operating angle when cruising low. I think I’ll be ok in that regard but it doesn’t make it less of poor decision. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Still gets the job done! Love the videos! Keep em coming!@@GarageFab

Interesting! My welder is even set up to do stick. Never used it though. I’d have to practice a little first. Haven’t stick welded in almost 20 years. 😳

Share your address! I’ll make sure he swings by! I’m kidding or course. Absolutely do NOT share your address. Unless you like weirdos.

You could send me your address in a secured way (not publicly posted on a youtube comment), and I might show up. I've done it before.... might be a while, but I like hanging out and building stuff.

@@TheFabricatorSeries You guys are awesome !!

Before I knew what I was doing. I stick welded a cracked machinist vice at work. 6 years later and it still works perfectly. Now I know how to weld, and I will never hit a perfect 90 angle again!

That’s fascinating! I just might be trying that. Thank you my friend.

propane weed torch.

Thank you my friend. I’ll be giving this a try! 🙏

You might be seeing me attempting that soon.

@foxcrf450 a space heater would not come close to working. The cast iron needs to be almost red hot over 800° then after welding it needs to be brought back to ambient temperature over 8 or more hours.

@@chrisbooge2217 I have to disagree with you there. 4-500 degrees I feel is good. It doesn't need to glow, I'm not annealing it. Granted idk what temp a propane heater runs but it would heat the housing up slowly, you can even weld with it in place and then cool slowly. Thats what I'm gonna do when I shave my AAM 11.5 🤷‍♂

@FOXCRF450RIDER First, i said "almost" red hot. Second, it's not about how hot the flame is. It's about the ability to deliver and maintain the heat. For example, a cutting torch will deliver a lot of heat in a very small area, allowing you to cut a line through a piece of metal, but if you want to bend the same metal you have to switch to a rosebud that can deliver more heat over a lager area. A propane space heater transfers heat through inferred not through direct contact, which is much less efficient than a rosebud on a oxyacetylene torch. It would take hours in an oven propane or electric to build heat in a part, out in the open air you would never be able to introduce or retain enough heat to be able to weld on cast iron with out running into thermal shock cracking welds.

Busy is good!! Usually. 😆 Hope all is well.

@@GarageFab yeah all is well. Just wish I was busy on a project in the shop instead of busy. Just trying to survive this economy 😢

@itzamedave6242 Ah! Understood! Keep fighting!

Yes! Congrats my friend. 👏

@@GarageFab Hot damn right from the man! I am actually looking back to find you building that massive axle truss. Just run another bead over it, it'll be fine, maybe.

I choose to spend my Viper budget on fuel, rear tires, and bi-monthly professional detailing. I'm not interested in a car cover. I bought the car to drive it 😉

Haha! I probably would’ve sent the truck to the junkyard if I welded it before noticing. Needless to say I’m grateful.

That’s interesting! My first thought was that it wouldn’t be necessary with a parallel 4 link since the pinion remains constant. (when built accurately) BUT a parallel 4 link lacks some traction on acceleration. Better traction is attained by installing shorter upper bars and angling them downwards in the front. The problem with that is a drastic pinion angle change when changing height so it’s not ideal with adjustable suspension. That’s where you come in. You could have shorter angled upper bars for maximum grip that can change length to maintain pinion angle. 👊 Very clever indeed.

Good enough!!? I don’t think it works that way. 😆

Thank you, Ron! We’ll get it figured out.

I can laugh at it now. My butt-hurt has subsided a little. Still not to the point of rolling though.

With static height suspension, you’ve got all the choices. Parallel is far easier to understand and set up. The triangulated is great but might be a little more complicated h than necessary. Also the triangulated bars take up a lot of room. It forces you to relocate your fuel tank. Either set the angle finder against the component to be measured sideways or if using the magnet side, just subtract your reading from 90 to get your actual angle. 90-88= 2°

Nope. Grind it out AND WELD IT BACK IN. Clearly its for cool factor AND mega strength. Let the man weld his heart out.

There is a captured nut welded to the inside tab and an access hole on the outside. I will be enlarging the hole a little as well as adding some holes in the front and rear because trying to get the bolt in as a wee bit more challenging than expected. 😆

Only way for him to do that would be to weld the nuts on the inner tab and remove and tighten the bolts from the pocket holes on the thrust.

It’s often not needed. I built a truss for 2 reasons; One, I shortened the axle which required cutting the axle tube and welding it back together. I wanted a little something to make sure my welds would last. My truss is way overkill for that. Two, I’m a KZfaq content creator and a truss gave me more content. Honestly, a lot of things I do aren’t “necessary”. But if it would make an interesting video, I’ll do it. For the C10, reinforcements aren’t usually needed because there’s so much space between the wheels and the frame so you can place your link bars on the outside. The closer your wheels the vehicle weight is applied, the better it is for the axle tube. The Mightymax on the other hand has a wider frame so the link bars and springs are usually placed on the inside of the frame rails. That leaves a lot more room between the wheels and the point that the vehicle weight sits so some sort of axle reinforcement is a pretty good idea.

Assuming you mean that the front of your differential is pointing upward 1.5 degrees, yes! This is the ideal setup for MOST vehicles. However, this setup is NOT OK if you have a Double Cardan joint. If you haven’t already, check out my video on driveshafts that explains the reasons why angles are so important. If that doesn’t answer your questions, lemme know and I’ll try to assist. Suspension Basics 06: A Better U Joint Driveshaft Video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j81-jcl6t5Ocfps.html

My apologies, Larry, but I strongly disagree. This would be correct if the front joint was a double cardan but it is not. I’ve got another video that may greatly benefit you. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j81-jcl6t5Ocfps.htmlsi=Bne1lhjL5lEGnh0q

Does that work?!

@@GarageFab I have only done it to weld to cast steel center sections. Cast iron may be different. It might just be that after a couple of welds the cast finally has enough heat in it. 😂 I only have a map gas torch so who knows.

Pardon my confusion… That’s exactly what we did. 🤔

Hey Sabashtion! I don’t see a problem in doing that at all. Another option is the bridge style Watts link that doesn’t attach to the diff cover at all. If you haven’t already, check out this video from my buddy Justin who makes that style. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j992gNGLprjVdX0.htmlsi=S8NR9seuWBuvdHO_

@@GarageFab Cool, will do.

I can only answer the first question because it’s still pretty new. I haven’t received my first bill yet! It’s freaking incredible! My wife came out a couple nights ago and said it was warmer in the garage than it was in the house. Most winters I find myself not wanting to go out. It has upped my productivity a whole bunch. And it has a thermostat which is fantastic.

I’d have relearn stick but I just might! Stay tuned.

Thank you my friend! I hadn’t heard that before. I’ll be looking into it. Pardon my lack of knowledge, but what is LPG?

Whoops. Forgot the first half of the question… There is an access hole in truss to remove, insert, and tighten the bolt. The nut is an all metal crimped captured nut. If it breaks off I’m screwed. I’ll have to cut more holes in the truss which I’m considering doing anyway. 🤔

Hi, thanks for replying, liquid petroleum gas, i guess one could say household/domestic gas, It has purer properties and won't inpregnate the steel.

I saw that hole, but figured at that angle it could not be, but anyways, after watching your videos i know that you have this covered. Great stuff.

Thank you my friend! 🙏

It depends on the suspension design. A parallel 4 link, no. Most factory suspensions, absolutely. If you’re not sure, be safe and set it at ride height for vehicles with static suspension. (Metal springs) or set it with the vehicle at half-travel on adjustable suspensions.

Absolutely! As long as it’s close. Heims don’t have a lot of usable adjustment, but having them on the top and bottom will help. If you need the nose of the differential to point up more, extend the upper bars using the heims and shorten the lowers. 👍

do you have a video on brackets or mounts for body side "floor pan" 4 link , especially out of stock location - fat tire ?

I’m learning that as we speak!

Never?! 😩

@@GarageFab yes. I knew from the thumbnail that it just aint right. Juat gonna have to throw it in the trash, and ill come by on collection day.

Why not? Music has always been a part of my life. It motivates me. It elevates my mood.

@@GarageFab yes but when people don't like your style of music it gets annoying. So when I'm annoyed I press dislike and move on.

But I don’t create for you.

These are nearly word for word the instructions I was given. I was too lazy to listen. Can you explain why that works? Or why it cracks in the first place?

@@GarageFab why it cracks? you explained it pretty much perfectly in the video i think. you are welding 2 metals with dissimilar expansion rates and "amounts". so they grow at different speeds to different dimensions. The cooling needs to happen slowly, so the stresses in the material can sort of float to the top and be released into the ethos. When the cooling happens fast, those material stresses are locked inside the weldment, and let me tell you. The ethos WANTS its energy back, and its gonna get it! Im sure this is analogous to cooking and locking air into a whipped frozen desert...but shit, i cant cook. As for filler material, stainless and high nickel fillers will be high in "elongation" though maybe having a lower tensile strength. You are probably running ER70 or 80 which is essentially "too strong" and "not chew enough". Maybe try Nic-L-Weld 99 or Super Missile Rod. Sorry im not sure if these come in mig wire, im a tig guy. But you can just use stainless wire like ss309 which isnt very exotic. There are cold weld fillers for cast iron. but you are going to wanna run a 1" bead, then let the whole thing cool to the touch before running the next bead, rinse and repeat.

@@GarageFab preheat expands the parts to the dimension they will be when welded. you are pre expanding the metal. ductility increases with temp {more mobile molecules}. keep the metal hotter longer makes it shrink slower letting the stress of the shrink find somewhere to go and even out, instead of concentrating itself into the first available "stress riser" {which in welding is usually the rough surface of the weld itself}