Facts very informative and gotta love him he's a great dude

Lol I only know one person who rocked the cardinal frame with vertical drop outs and he was an mtb dude trying to switch to bmx.

Eh they started out as bmx racing hubs. Back when you still had some cross over. People forget profile is an 80s bmx brand.

​@@bmxriderforlife1234 what does all that mean exactly? Are they good, are they bad?

@@x88868 they're fine for like park and light general riding. Great for dirt or racing. But they aren't the God send everyone thinks. The elites are a pure race hub or pegless hub. The minis with guards can be okay if you don't destroy hubs. I'd say you get more for your money going elsewhere. Tree hub with ti bolts would weigh less than a mini all tied out and still have 14mm female. Custom ti center axle while expensive would get you even lighter. Some drivers for other hubs may work for a ti driver swap for the tree hubs. Or custom ti driver. Worth the money if you don't murder hubs often. Profile does make decent stuff. But kinda outdated in some regards. Not as light but primo mix cassette hubs used to be based off profile hubs. Stronger shells. Cranks for 19mm kinda same deal for 22mm eh column cranks have no sprocket bosses. Though lifetime warranty is nice. Sprockets. Just buy a tree sprocket unless you need a guard sprocket then find a titanium guard sprocket like the rnc. Stems. I like S&M and shadow or wtp. Never had a slip with those stems and good bars. You have been able to get hubs with at least above standard engagement or basically mini engagement but smoother rolling or stronger or both for time. Q lite hubs aka old wtp Supreme and shadow rant hubs among some others for example. Current cassette hub id take. Depends entireltnon situation. Sre you trying to save weight and get a strong hub. Sre you buying ti stuff. Are you just wanting a good hub. Do you just want the cheapest titanium loaded rear hub fir weenie status. Full ti profile is the lightest for the cheapest depending. Some hubs chromo to chomo are cheaper than profile. And you can get bolts for the female fronts cheaper than profile from bolt suppliers same for rears. Custom bits depends cause profile is kinda priced high and depends on you specific area and what a machinist charges you. For ti spindles and 22mm 48spline easiest to get profile arms. But you can use the profile spindles with some other crank arms. There's 3 different 22mm 48 spline standards. Makes spline drive annoying. If you want light and strong. And don't mind the cost. Almost any hub by any other brand can beat a profile. They don't have the strongest shells. And custom sometimes means 14mm female if it's a male hub with conversion bits. Or just 14mm female titanium. If you just want off the shelf and ti profile wins. If you don't want ti. Get a shadow definitive rear hub or a fly magneto or something like that. Front doesn't matter as much but you can get stronger lighter front hubs that cone with hub guards included. Bolts are easier to get than drivers and shit. For a coaster hub. Z coaster is kinda heavy still. Full ti to ti I can beat it by like 4 ounces. Or a quarter of a pound. Or 112g. But requires some custom ti bits. Or mods and finding old parts. But a planetary coaster.

I had the jay mirron hydramatic in White black wish I still had it!

Lol as someone working on a brand. You're factually correct. Guard sprockets work best with the guard on the inside for most instances unless you only care about protecting the sprocket itself from bends with reinforcement. For chain protection run reverse works best. Why I'm doing a dual guard if I can get my brand going. 5 piece system but modular. Plain sprocket dual bolt on metal guards and plastic add on sections. If you care about bend protection ultimate solution. If you care about chain protection inside guard. If you care about sliding performance add the plastic bits. Don't like any of it run it plain Jane.

Oh throttle bars was macneil bikes. It worked but the brand slowly went under with other bad decisions and the death of its distribution business and Jay miron selling it off. I might add like 1 or 2 anti rotation holes. It can weaken things but there are ways to reinforce them. They also technically don't even have to go all the way through the material but could be little indented sections via forming techniques. Downside is you can't use a compressor to put on grips. You have to do the zip tie trick or man handle them on. But they won't move. If you run the absolute thinnest grips and stretch em they end up ripping on the holes sometimes.

You better make a few prototypes, don't show any pictures. I see potential.

You need to get a hold of Vince.

They were needed, frames had 18-19 inch top tubes.. Except the Rl20ii, the seat tube angle is so laid back that a straight post was fine.

Drainpipe, worst Odyssey product ever. Must have been made out of electrical conduit. Looked awesome until it bent tho. Or maybe Dan's sold me a fake one.

@@realDonaldTrump420 cw snake post was much better

​@Mike Hagen the rl was big for a freestyle bike 20.5 tt

DirrTae

Every time I see someone drinking bud light, I always assume they have some secrets.

"some kid is going to ask his parents...." So, damn true.