Made me think about an old tool and die maker I used to work with. He would always say, "That's not slop, that's clearance". He also said, "It's not about how much you mess up", but "how well you can fix it". The first thing he said to me when I started out. How true it was. What a great guy.

I missed so many years of seeing you work, looking back I like seeing your hands a little dirty. Many more years for you Mr Pete

This will never get old, exactly how to fit the back plate. I saw a different video where someone drilled the side of a non-adjustable chuck, put in 4 set screws and made it into adjustable one. Of course, he had to fix a back plate like Lisle did here. It might be possible to add a ring to an existing back plate, heck all you really need are 4 screw heads that the set screws could hit and push on to center it, the rest of the ring never gets used.

I never thought about only tapping part-way through. That has REALLY simplified some machining ideas I've got for once I finish my lathe rebuild. Thanks, Mr. Pete.

I get overwhelmed at times with the trouble that our Country is in and the World for that matter, but I always can count on mrpete222 to not only teach me something and be entertained but I just feel better after watching your videos. Thanks!

Dear Mr. Pete Thanks to you and your instructions, I mounted a chuck on a back plate with no problems and no intimidation! While not an adjustable chuck, your easy to follow videos makes it a "snap" - teaching an old dog new tricks.

This is a great thing you are doing.I wish I would have been in your class.I thank my shop teacher every day l thank him every day that I have all my fingers and my eyes.

So glad to have you Mr. Pete!

Your channel is excellent You have shed light on so many machining procedures!!!!! I cannot thank you enough!!!

as usual, brilliant order of operations, watching you work is a confidence builder - thank you!

A good few more tips I have taken aboard.You never seem to miss a trick.Over the past your tutorials have saved me a lot of time as well as making far less scrap.Really appreciate the time and effort you put into your videos.Thank you and wish you and you family a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

Again a very informative video, from a master machinist. I always enjoy watching your videos, because you fill them with so much information, tips, and tricks. Thanks for sharing your decades of experience with us.

I'm getting through your 950+ other videos. Any day without MrPete222 is a sad day. Keep on going sir. Thank you for your time and sharing with us.

Even though this video is 4 years old.. it is a good file to have in my Rolodex.. you know the one inside my head..?. LOL I enjoy listening to and watching your videos. The way you explained things and using the proper nomenclature make it easy to understand. I enjoy attending your classes..🤓 . Thank you mr. Pete..

Thumbs up, I have that same set of transfer punches I bought yesterday at the corner Pawnshop for 20.00 holder included

Well done! You're a top-notch teacher. I wonder if the kids in your classes appreciated it. I remember that in my shop classes the drill press tables were riddled with holes.

Great timing... Im doing this in my shop next week when my new chuck arrives! Great video.

Mr. Pete. you make a project such as this so clear and understandable. Based on this video I would not hesitate taking on such a project. Thank you. Merry Christmas.

Thanks Mr. Pete, I enjoyed that. Every time I see there's a new video from you, it's like an early Christmas present and with that, have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Great stuff and thanks so much for taking the time to do these. They are a treasure really

Thanks for the detailed no B.S. comments very informative .Cheers from Down Under in Australia

One can always learn something from Tubalcain.Thanks

Dear Lyle, really great tip on counter boring that tapped 10-24 hole and only tapping the last portion.....also drillng and tapping one hole before marking others.....Best wishes , Paul

Thank you Lyle once again for your excellent videos! I hope you have a wonderful Christmas, you and yours!

Thanks so much for this! Really helps me out--I have two 3 jaw and one 6 jaw Buck Adjust-trus that need 1-1/2"-8 adapters for my South Bend 9A.

Years ago, I had just bought a set of those allen wrench drivers with the ball ends. We had a new guy that just got out of the Navy and I was in the opposite side of the factory from the shop working on a piece of machinery. They sent him to help me and I asked him to bring me that set of allen drivers. He was gone for quite a while and when he brought them, I pulled one out and the ball was missing. It was gone on all of them. When I asked him about it, he said when he saw the end he thought they were all worn out and ground all the tips off for me. Yes, those people do exist.

Thanks for a good explanation of fitting a backing plate!

Wonderful start to my Saturday, thanks Mr. Pete.

Thank You ------- I enjoy all your videos

Thank you very much, Chuck...., I mean, Mr. Pete. Excellent video!

That is a very nice chuck. Maybe some time I will run across one. Thanks for the video.

Did just about what you've done, but, with a 10 incher 6 jaws.... Love the fact of not having to change constantly form this to 4 jaws chuck, mostly at 80+ pounds a chuck, getting older makes us maybe not lazier but a little smarter... lol

Always something to learn. Much appreciated.

Excellent work as always Mr. Pete!

Great video. well done.

will get back to you in a few months, have another 449 videos to watch, just kidding great video

NIce video. Will put into practice what I've learned here. I have a 6 jaw that needs a back plate and you've outlined how to do it quite nicely.

That was satisfying to watch.

Thanks for another great video. I hope to use the info in these two videos shortly. I need to make a custom backing plate for my new 4 jaw chuck because my lathe has an oddball 60mm x 8TPI thread on the spindle. Chris

This is my project sometime after Christmas with a new 4-jaw 😎

Thanks, Mr. Peterson.

I think you just answered my question at 1:30. I don't have undersize bolts in the adjust tru Bison chuck. Couldn't get any adjustsment.... Thank you Professor Pete!!

nicely done mr pete thanks for showing

MERRY CHRISTMAS !! GREAT VIDEO !!!

A great video on how to do this............ Merry Christmas !!!

I just finished turning one of those same backing plates last night (still need to drill & tap) but I wish I had known it was cast iron before ordering it. It was no fun turning cast iron and made a huge mess. But I wish I had thought to turn the plate around, I would have saved a ton of time taking material off the larger diameter. And I have the same lathe :)

Nice work Lyle!

Very good demo! Thank you :-))

Great video

A thought here about fitting any back plate: You should always have the ten thousands slop or clearance between the inside ID of the back of the chuck and the step on the back plate that Lisle is demonstrating. If you fit a standard non-adjustable chuck and make the back plate tight, you couldn't tap it in to adjust it.

Nice job Merry Christmas!

Nice project. That 1-3/4 X 8 backplate will fit a Grizzly G0752 lathe for sure ( I have one of those) and probable some other Grizzly lathes.

thoroughly enjoyed that.. thank you sir for sharing..

another great video

As always, great video! From a retired carpenters viewpoint, (hobby machinist in training), it looks like the groove machined in the nose piece would be helpfull keeping the backing plate attached to the chuck if the adjusting screws were a bit loose. Just a thought. Thanks for all the great videos. J.B. (San Diego).

very useful info, thanks much.

Nice video I learnt best knowledge from this video

A nice job, interesting video. Thank you. (The 1. 3/4 _8 thread fits a Smart and Brown sable 9 inch)

Very instructive

If I had been doing it I would have chucked up a piece of 1/2 in drill rod in the tailstock, clamped the chuck to the drill rod and slid it up to the backing plate and transferred the holes. Still a very good video though, please keep it up.

Great video! I am curious to know why the the bolt threads has a maximum strength after a certain number of threads. Is it because the force that would be required to pull the bolt out of the threads exceeds the tensile strength of the bolt?

Ive got to make a backing with 3pins when I learn how.

is it necessary to have the entire 1" of threads on the atlas spindle engaged on the backing plate? or, in other words, is it a problem to have a little too much of a counter bore?

I've been looking for a good used lathe but someone in Illinois keeps buying them up! Happy Holidays, Mr. Pete!

Ya Iam always on kijiji or Craigslist looking around for tools. Its like a big garage sale 24/7. Ha I'm looking at a bobcat m-700 for $800 needs a motor. Do you know anything about them or what should look for. Thanks

Mr. Peterson. You have probably already seen this video series, but if not it's worth a look. OLD TIME STEAM POWERED MACHINE SHOP

thank you, mr. peterson, for the very nice and useful series. a little question: after you transfer the first hole, could you have held the plate in a dividing head and put six more divisions for the other holes? thank you, -toly

Like your videos

Legendary

Hey Mr Pete, as always, great video. One thought, could you have turned the backing plate down to the full "no slop" diameter of the hole in the chuck then with put the chuck on and mark the holes? Then no shim required? After which, take the backing plate down to the final "slop" size?

Another way to center the back plate would be to insert the back plate, tighten two of the adjusting screws (at 90 degrees to each other) to push the back plate to one side of the chuck, back off the two screws you tightened by 0.006", and turn the other two screws to hold the back plate centered.

Mr. Peterson, do you ever use a shop vac or a dust mask?

Great video as always Mr. Pete! After you shined up the chuck, did you apply anything to it to keep it from oxidizing again (e.g. WD-40, oil, Boeshield)?

I'm sure you know both of these things, but they bear repeating - one for safety, and one for easy chucking. Cast iron is perhaps the only material which is (sort of) safe to hold by hand. Drill bits rarely "grab" as they go through the end of the hole in cast iron. You would certainly never try that with sheet metal or with any copper alloy. The Adjust-true (and others like it) can really only be adjusted to tighten true at a single diameter. Irregularities in the scroll will require re-truing when you tighten down on a part of a different size. It certainly will repeat quite accurately on same-sized parts if your final tightening is always on the same tightener (usually marked in some way). This gives you excellent repeatability for semi-production operations where you want to chuck up parts of the same size over and over. You get nearly the same accuracy as a 4-jaw without the individual centering needed for each part.

I have a question - or did I miss it? Should you machine the side that goes to the spindle? Thanks for your great and informational videos!! Tom

MrPete....really like your vids. Informative, interesting and humorus. I have subscribed. I have watched many of them. I have a question....I have an old Enco lathe I bought years ago as a basket case. It is together and functions well for my needs. I have been unable to find info on the size of the heastock spindle. I measure 2 inches at the register area of the spindle. I have a thread pitch guage on order to get the threads pitch, witch I think are 8 TPI. If I want to make a backing plate for this what would I bore out the backing plate to cutthe inside threads? I figure its about 1.860 or there about. Please give wath advise you feel is pertinent when you have the time. Thanks Keep up the good work!! Merry Christmas to you and your Family!!

Hello Mr. Pete love your videos.I want to make a indexing back plate for my 4 inch chuck and I have no idea how to space the holes I was wanting to make 24 holes any info would be great as I'm just learning how to use my lathe thanks so much

Nice demonstration, thank you. I'd really be interested in that 1&3/4" x 8 back plate you started with if you're thinking of off loading it. I'm restoring an old Smart & Brown M model mk1 from 1946, and I could really do with that for a little 4 jaw chuck project.

@mrpete222 I am very excited to notice the small drill press you use in this video! I have been searching high and low for a small benchtop unit like that, but dread buying a Harbor Freight death machine. What model is that one? In your estimation, how well suited is it for small precision work?

1 and 3/4 inch by 8 is the size of my Sheldon 10 inch lathes spindle threads. Watching this as I shop for a ER40 collet chuck for it.

you mention the reason you cut the clearance hole was that there is no reason to thread beyond a certain depth or thickness as there is no advantage for maximum holding strength. Do you have a reference for what that maximum thickness would be for various thread sizes??? Other than the old "rule of thumb" of about 1.5 times the diameter for steel and 1.8 - 2 times the diameter for brass or cast iron, I haven't been able to find a written reference for the maximum thickness to thread to, after which there is no additional strength gain. Thanks

Removing threads because of the holding issues doesn't make common sense to me. IF, and that is a big if, for some strange reason the initial threads get messed up or pulled out, you have nothing remaining to still use in the hole or extra material to tighten the bolts. If the entire hole doesn't need threaded, what is wrong threading it for such possibilities anyways? IDK!

You mentioned it was "Cast iron" - I've been told by a metalurgist that they haven't made cast iron since mid 1800s, that even 'cast iron' pans etc. are forms of mild steel. Please help me understand. Thankyou.

tnx, but still

10:07...I'd tap the whole thickness, and take my chances-!!

with a lot of machine experience, not a teacher, but the one repairing industrial equipment, I don't like removing clearance threads on connecting plates. True, it will only hold the thickness of the nut, but that is irrelevant, to structural integrity. We never removed threads on the lead in, like never, ever, many many years of engineering.

Scary! You as an expert buying a custom theaded backing plate? Makes me reconsider doing my own. What's up- I'm just learning.

Could the backing plate have been made from steel instead of cast iron? Why does cast iron seem to be the material of choice for backing plates, even when the chucks are steel? Thanks. -Chris

a 1 & 3/4 -8TPI fits my cheap chinese mini lathe.

why cast and not steel

You know there’s a good reason why a .012” shim wouldn’t fit in there? Right?

Mr Peterson, you are awesome. I have learnt so much from watching your videos. I recently bought a small lathe and I'm having fun making chips - because of you I've got the confidence to try the basics! Also - I found Dan Gelbert recently - a really fascinating series of videos showing some more unusual shop machines. Some really good tips too, and some good tips for the lathe and mill. I'm going to have to make one of these laser mill alignment devices : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pdqDndills-rd58.html My thanks to you and all the other 'shop' guys who put so much time and effort into their videos!

walking contradiction this guy---constanlty contradicting himself---not only that---he duidnt whipe the chips out with a old rag--like id have done--he blew them out with compressed air---his words...something he has said not to do 10354 times--but--still does it himself--i like how he always uses tool s that he has a million of--we probaly have none--but he has tons of them--this guy is lame