Now that you've de-burred them, they're only "Brown". You have removed the "Sharp". Just sayin...

My dad was a toolmaker. When I was a kid I found his bag of gauges, similar to this, took them to my room and painted them to look like tiny robots that could punch each other. At least he sees the funny side of it now. About forty years later..

I used to try and use snap gauges for cylinder bore work. I used to ride dirt bikes. I could never get an accurate measurement either. I knew from my machinist training, that engine machinists have specialized bore gauges, but I couldn't afford those. I swallowed my pride and asked a guy at work. He had worked on radial aircraft engines at the Curtis Wright facility during WWII. He served in Korea. I always watched him real close, but he was kind of grumpy and intimidating. When I asked him about measuring these bores, he looked at me kind of funny, like I said something that smelled bad. He went and got a metal box he had squirreled away. He explained that trying to use snap gauges won't work. The wear patterns in the bore make an accurate measurement impossible. He told me to take his personal bore taper indicator. It's really old, but accurate. Let him know if it worked for me. This tool has a kind of 'sled' (not sure what to call it) that an indicator sits on. There are different length tips in this kit, that are used depending on bore size. A rod attaches to the device so it can be easily slid down the bore. I used it, figured out the proper dimension to bore it oversize. Worked great! The machinist, Donald Andrews (RIP), gave me the tool. I've used it countless times. He didn't think it was doing anybody any good buried in his tool box. I got to know him well after that. We became good friends. I get to tell this story about a quiet man that helped me out, every time I show that tool off.

nowt wrong with carpet in the shop lol..........fancy eh.

We need more of this during quarantine. Please, God Tony.

Hey This Old Tony: First of all - thank you! I basically got into metal fabrication and welding because of your videos. How about a shop tour video sometime?

Take it apart in a gallon ziplock bag for when the springs go ballistic

Wow that’s crazy how unfinished those parts looked 😟

Those Brown n Sharp gages look like they were made in the same factory as the ones you got for your 4th birthday.

TOT: "We need to do what Brown and Sharpe failed to do" ME: "Wow, Tony is going to teach us how to end a prolonged labor dispute without destroying the company, and in about a minute of remaining video!"

It just feels weird when a This Old Tony video isn't 20 or 30 minutes long.

A couple years ago I treated myself to a starrett 91B tap wrench. I'd been eyeing one for a while and finally pulled the trigger on one. It was brand new in the box still in the plastic bag. I was so excited I could barely contain myself. I brought it to work with me and wanted to try it so bad that I grabbed a piece of CRW (can't remember what) stock, drilled a tap hole and grabbed a tap. This is where my excitement died. I went to close the wrench on the tap and got a gut churning crunching sound from inside of it. I stopped what I was doing and took the wrench apart to find metal shavings all through the insides. It took me about an hour to clean them all out. It broke my heart to spend all that money on it just to have to pick up where they left off.

"Uploaded 22 seconds ago" You're damn right I'm gonna drop everything I'm doing for a new tot video..

Pro tip, when the surprise shooting spring threat is high, disassemble within a clear plastic bag. The bigger the better because if you can keep your hands way down in the bag while you disassemble, the springs have further to shoot to escape the bag. Drape a shop rag over the opening, hold it close to your chest, or do something else to try to minimize the opening. One more pro tip for when you've already lost a part. Grab a flashlight and turn off the overhead lights. Get down on the floor and shine the beam nearly parallel to the floor. Any dust, dirt, chips, or parts you're looking for will now cast a very long shadow, making them easy to see. I think the beam also helps to focus your attention on a distinct area instead of taking in an overall picture. Try it, you'll be surprised how dirty your floor is.

watch out for the "springen-sproingen."

"De burr those until you're happy, or you've given up" - I really like how realistic this is!! And can relate to it very well.

Problem is that I don't keep any light oil around. I tried switching to light oil but my family just doesn't like the flavor as much as a full fat oil.

As I tell every new person in the shop, the difference between low quality and slightly better quality to good quality is if things are deburred. After deburring it's often all fit and finish. Good overview of this "deburring" of premium tools to make them work right... I think I will break mine down and give them a once over just for sanity sakes, and because TOT did it.

Every other TOT video: Here's a quick tip... 26 minutes later. I feel like I've been cheated out of 20 solid minutes of meandering around said quick tip on this one. I have no recourse but to pull out my bore gauges and a stone. In protest.

Wait, you narrate these LIVE?! Dude, your commentary is so tight I thought you had to be doing like a scripted dub pass over your videos. You're a freaking super hero.

Those look about as well deburred as the hardened Starrett combination square head that i got a few years ago new. I could shave with the edges on that thing.

The real story here is someone actually measuring piston/bore clearance on a 2-stroke.

“Shame we have to do this to ‘premium’ tools”. I bought a brand new set of B&S parallels- had to grind the 1/2” pair so they’d match. A brand new pair of B&S v-blocks I had to grind one side to put the vees on center. Went from referring to Brown and sharpe as B&S to just BS!

I bought a set at a used tool store years ago, no idea what they did. A few weeks later at work, I needed to figure a bored ID, not my usual kind of machining, and it occurred to me these things would work. Yep they worked. An old timer told me that is exactly what they were made for so he was less impressed with my brilliance than I was!

Tony, you're making me not want the quarantine to end. I'm loving the frequency.

Always amazing content. Even unrehearsed while wearing one shoe. My channel is growing slowly but surely, thanks to your inspiration!

You listening Brown & Sharp?! You’ve been called out! Shots fired by my boy Tony. And he always shoots true.

The amount of joy i derive from learning about deburring bore gauges is inversely proportional to the chance of me ever needing them. Such is the magic of ToT.

Surprisingly, there’s little difference between being happy and giving up.

Great call, TOT. I have a set of Tee gauges I bought over fifty years ago, and I always assumed the crunchiness was just a manifestation of interference between the spring coils and keepers. Now I know it can be fixed. I plan to clean them with mineral spirits, as alcohol has suddenly become precious in my house.

Someone once told me that This Old Tony’s videos were boring, I said, Yes, yes they are. You can now even measure how boring to a precise measurement 👌🏼

Isolation beginning to bite huh? Stripping and filing bore gauges . Same here, screw boxes in order, argon bottle finally strapped to bench, hell I've even swept the floor!

It's sad how poor the quality is on many good names in tools these days... I've even seen Chinese Starrett tape measures recently... Sad.

That crunchy sound hurt my soul and my teeth somehow.

So glad you took on this small project, I have wanted to attempt it in the past every time I reach for mine. Now I feel I have what it takes to be successful. Thank you Tony!

TOT I want my money back on this episode!! You brought back one of those suppressed memories of mine. I was training a newbie on how to measure a bore. The first few measurements went fine, but then the lock got really tight on them. With some decent effort, it freed up. Unfortunately they didn’t realize that just the tip is the lock and inadvertently loosened the handle shaft. The proper term for the “plungers” are “projectiles”. After that, it was just one of those bad days. To account for all the parts, I took apart another gauge to see what was in it. I can’t ever use my gauge set without noticing that two of them have different thread sealant on the handle shafts. You made me go look at them just so I could shake my head again.

Learning that you can pull these bore gauges apart and clean and do "Minor" rework on them. . . thanks! Now to go get some and see what needs to be done!

Just grabbed a shirt, trying to support the KZfaq creators that I enjoy the most.. your one of them!

Tony, I like the way that you think, organize, investigate, analysis, process and explain. 👍 For Tony.

You know, one thing I love about the videos you make is the tools you use. Back in a Small Engine class in highschool, we learned about these various measuring tools while we learned about tearing down a single cylinder Briggs motor, and reassembling it. I haven't touched, nor heard anything about the bore gauges in years. Back then I wasn't too keen on learning anything so I never fully understood how to read an analog Micrometer but seeing this has brought back those memories and kind of makes me want to buy some of these just to measure random stuff around my home.

I follow way too many channels, but TOT always grabs my attention first. It's got to the stage that is 3rd season re-runs from the start in preference to watching new content on other channels . You sir are what all educators, lectures and teachers should aspire to be, informative, educational, entertaining and able to hold the attention of your audience. Stay safe mate, you improve the lives of 793k people on this Earth.

LOL. I just said out loud (gasped really) "oh! Tony Video" and my family looked at me funny.

Had a set of moore and wright telescopic bore gauges they served me well for 30 years.they were second hand when i got them ,probly made in the 1940s keep up the good work

Just want to say I really appreciate these shorter and more often "update" video during this lock-in.

Tony, you where so close. The tee part is called a Boonsie swoop and the handle insert is called a Jutnumb bar. 👍

Premium precision instruments: now shipping with free KZfaq channel content ideas.

You do a great job of explaining the problems so many people overlook, such a great teacher. Thanks T.O.T.

Tony, Glad to have you bring this up and what the fix is. I’ve owned a Starrett set for years and thought all telescoping gauges were “crunchy.” Crazy. Be well, Will

Do I know what a bore gauge is? No. Will I watch the video? Absolutely.

I just told my girlfriend "tot upload a new vid, talk you later, love you!" I've the proof😭😂

I am a blacksmith (advanced hobbyist) but your videos over the years have opened up a whole new dimension to my home-work-hobby Thank you very much, Sir.

I bought a set from harbor freight. After trying them only once with no good results I threw them in back of a drawer never to be seen again until I watched abom79 using them on a video. He, by far has the best method of using them with repeatable results I’ve ever seen. Now, thanks to him I didn’t waste my money. They were also very gritty feeling. I took em apart and cleaned em up and now they’re a good, frequently used tool. Finally, I can cut some precise bores.

I wish I watched this earlier. You have to try to post your videos before I need them. I mean, how hard can it be. I bought a set of telescoping bore gauges from perhaps Enco some 10 years ago when I was first starting to throw my son's inheritance into this hobby. About a month ago I was annoyed by the "crunchiness" of their action so it took to disassembling one to see what I could do to fix the problem. Well, needless to say, I didn't pull up the carpet in my garage and now I have fo find a home for 16 boxes of spring wire and time to learn how to wind springs.

2:28 And here I imagined ToT ASMR was a patreon exclusive.

Thanks a lot for these videos. You singlehandedly made taking my courses in technology and metrology on university a couple of times easier

I just bought a new set of gauges and they're super crunchy. Thanks for the tips, going to fix them now!

Thank you for showing how to disassemble them. Mine have always bothered me, but I was reluctant to take them apart because I didn't know the procedure. I'm guessing that Mitutoyo telescopic gages are better, but they are also $170 for a six piece set.

As simple as those things appear to be, I’m surprised he didn’t just fire up the lathe and make his own set from scratch. Future video maybe?.

Always a pleasure watching your videos! Knowledge combined with humor is best for good entertainment!!! Love it!!!

Why is it I enjoy watching Tony tackle machinist world problems so much! Anyway keep up the good work.

wow, this is the earliest I've been to TOT in a while

The B&S's sound like my cheapy Chinesium set.

Never in my life do I anticipate using the information I have learned today. Great video.

And the main reason I clicked on this video got answered. And that is how the bore gauge actually worked. Seems like a fairly simple and elegant solution.

Do they still lock firmly or did you just make another set of slippy gauges? What makes the other set slip?

Finaly the weekend makes sense.

i am not into machining or welding but from the day that your vids start pop up on my feed i realy enjoy watching them. good job and keep going with the vids

Tony is the only channel I can hit like while watching the opening ads. It’s always good

Why does my brain keeps repeating the word "Mitutoyo" over and over again?? Oh .. it wants me to be happy ;)

"First the corona virus, now I have to rip up the carpet in my garage.." Colin Furze 2020..

Great video, problem solving, and advice, thank you! May you, your family & friends, be safe and healthy!

TOT. Your videos sure are a blessing during lockdown. Thanks and stay safe!!

Says Sharpe right on the package. Guess you were after the Round and Smoothe model.

Was there any 'brown' in there that needed to be dealt with - too? Having brown stuck in a tube is always a problem.

Best Present ever. You posted this on my Birthday. After dealing with NO ONE because of the current Blah blah blah, I got this!!! Love your vids Tony. Admittedly I have watched all your videos. Thank you for the teachings and the laughs.

Great recommendation for fixing. I have encountered this problem before, now I know what to do to fix. Thanks Tony.

I have an old set of Starretts bought new, with essentially the same problems. I may use this opportunity to smooth things out. Wonderfully nice hardened materials, but really notchy to use. Usually engine builders use feeler gauges to check piston clearances. You should know where on the piston the mfg wants you to measure the clearance since pistons expand from uneven heating when in use. Air cooled cylinders may be choke-bored to allow for combustion chamber heat in the upper cylinder. Instructions for fitting new pistons to a cylinder on your engine would likely do just fine. Make sure to check end-gaps on piston rings to match cylinder bore so they are not too tight.

"How ragged that slot is" I thought this was a good christian channel

Just checked... my Mitutoyos are “Silver & Smooth”. Your video has belatedly relieved my premium purchase guilt! Thanks TOT!!

Thank You!!! I’ve had a set for quite a while and have wanted to smooth them out to perform better. Hats off to you good sir for this demonstration on safe disassembly. 👍👍👍👍👍

0:02 "Just the tip and only for a minute."

I don’t know I you can hear what I’m feeling 🤣

I’ve really been enjoying going back to your videos lately. :)

You know what I hate about your videos? You don’t do enough of them. Thank you for doing them.

Eerie. Just this afternoon, I thought to myself, "I wonder how these work inside" Was that premonition or coercion? And on whose part?

"Trying to measure my cylinder wear" thats what she said.

Finally up close, I get to see what Abom pulls out of his pocket and peels/pulls down( like he is about to break into a dance) out of a part. Then magically has a measurement. I knew I could count on you. Stay healthy and acne.

Thanks Tony for venturing into the unknown for us. Now I'm doing this to my all cheap import telescopic gauges. Want to get rid of the crunch

I could feel them with my ears, and it tickles, stop it!

I've always wondered how you can get an accurate bore reading with gauges that are flat and not round or pointy??? Maybe we need to investigate this!!!

This video couldn't have come at a better time for me. Just got a set second hand with some surface rust and tried to tear into them...knew they come apart, but was afraid of bending/breaking them. Thanks This (not so) Old Tony...you are a scholar and a gentleman.

So... you made me rush out and dismantle one of my inherited seventy year old Moore & Wright bore gauges. I have always been happy with them; they certainly lock OK, (only have one moving anvil). Guess what... they have had minimal use, and they too have a slightly "gritty" feel! :o( I'd never noticed... you've broken my heart! Mine did not need deburring, but as with yours, the pin-slot has been made with an end-mill or similar, resulting in uneven walls. If the slot had been made with a keyway cutter, it would have been smoother on the walls, but would have needed stop-pins or holes at the ends. Alternatively, a shoe in the slot would be good, but either way, would you pay for the finished product! Keep up the good work... we need you in these times.

I’ll be back again to read the comments about 6:11

Lockdown happiness!!!

Oh my god. I thought I was the only psycho that lost sleep about my crunchy telescope gauges! Good to know there's more of us out there. You should start a support group for people like us.

As an automotive engineer.. never used this kind of gauges. My tool is an internal telescoping dial indicator. Similar to your style but dedicated to engine diagnosis. It has a dial indicator instead of the screw-a-ma-thingy on top, and the anvils are more rounded (almost ball bearings) and they have on one side two spring loaded flaps, or another sleeve with two funky bearings to center the whole thing on exact diameter. And usually only one side is springloaded and with measurement to dial. The other side is just a threaded hole in the body and it comes with a full set of longer threaded extensions each with a ball shaped anvil and a locknut to finetune this fixed size. Mine can measure from 40mm up to 300mm with all those extensions. The length of the extensions is irrelevant since it's a dial indicator and will zero it against a known referece inside a normal micrometer. The dial indicator is most important to make sure you are measuring the minmal diameter of the bore. And for absolute measurement, i just set my nominal value in a micrometer and zero the dial while resting between micrometer anvils. Also is noted that the dial indicator has a very short travel (mine has 3mm travel.. around 1/8th inch) in order not to ding the surface while inserting the tool. This tools is suposed to be rocked back and forth to find the absolute minimum diameter. Tool is always diametral (springloaded flaps/bearings), and the rocking will find the true plane of the circle you are measuring (by watching the dial and stop as it starts the other way). It's doable with your setup but not optimal. Tool can scarpe the wall while inserting due to huge travel of both plungers, will not ensure dead diametral but it's easy enough to just feel it (self centering sort off), and it will cetrainly not sit in circle plane.. so this may need lots of rocking/locking/repeat.. and by the time is done you potentially done a few scrapes in the area you were rocking to find the correct value. Either way, for correct measurement, do at least 3 points vertically (near TDC where the 1st ring stop, about 20mm down form that spot where most powerstroke is done, and near the BDC to have a relevant wear on whole cylinder) and 2 diameters (on wristpin axis and perpendicular to wristpinaxis). If TDC value is way higher than the other two heights it's a sticktion/adhesion wear problem on 1st ring, if there is almost same wear at TDC and 20mm down, it's oiling problem (hone marks gone, lots of wear, bad diluted oil with gasoline). Feel free to ask me any question.

So you're saying, we should not trust tools just because its a name brand? That branded tools might be garbage? *Gasp* I was lied to!

Should have bought Starret. Mine are silky smooth.

Absolutely love your channel, thanks for all the fun and enlightening hours!

I ALWAYS learn something watching your channel. Thank you & stay safe.