Amen

They work great!

Amen to that brother have sacrifice many

Once and a while my local hardware store has a Stanley chisel 3pak on sale for $3. They usually last until the next time they go on sale.

I noticed that too. A little wonder bar would have sufficed too and offended less. 😂

I was shouting, "Noooooo! Why!!!!! STOOOOOOOOP! Please stop bear! Please stop. BEAR!"

Alot of so called contractors out there are a bunch of guys that really don't know what they're doing .I have had couple of times when I have got called from customers wanting me to look at something and ended up giving a very painful answer that the job wasn't done rite

Schlueter is by far the BEST product out there!

Not real issue here but I’ve seen enough to avoid hot mop and think when working

But never as insidious as scummy contractors.

California produces a lot of asphalt and they try to put it everywhere

💯 percent this is what happening with me I’m a contractor and I charge little bit more than the average but people just want to do the job cheaper and then they will spend more money later to redo the job again

@@bluegenie840 it always happens like that when people don’t educate themselves either with videos, word of mouth or some other way than just handing out money and hoping.

When it comes to durock, You are using the rite materials. I'm a contractor and let me tell you this, there is nothing that can and will replace durock rite now. They can come out with 100 different new materials and it mite look cool, or easier to work it but it ain't better than durock . I done my first bathroom around 17 years ago with a little of experience and i used durock. Those bathroom are still in perfect shape. I know that cause i did it to the members of my family. I understand that there is some materials out there that is easier to work with than durock, but i always do my research to find out if i should use it instead of durock. Some of them are just 2 expensive, or have too many problems

A mistake with treated wood, it can warp over time once it dries out if not enough screws in it, really doesn’t matter what you use now that you have a pan liner Over it completely tbh

Exactly!!!

I think so to i have done quite a few shower pan repair jobs it can be done i get he rather do the whole bathroom but it can be done

I think the problem is that if that is messed up who knows what else is wrong. If I was fixing someone else's mistake I'd rather do everything right so you can now guarantee that it won't fail since you did the work

Your method is better.

if the stud is "proud"' 'sticking out farther than the others , make some relief cuts on the face and ass where ever the bulge is most pronounced 1/4 -1/2" , alternately , push the stud flush with his neighbors ,take a length of 2x4 and screw it to stud flush with neighbors , if stud is shy , either reverse process or rip strips of 2x and make up the difference and add them to stud

Durock won’t rot it will wick like mud does. Hardie is garbage

And use epoxy grout.

Every time I see one of these videos about tile floor showers all the time, I appreciate the plastic E M Mustee shower base in my house more than ever. I like tile on the walls, though.

@@MrNeptunebob I almost went with either a cast-iron or acrylic shower pan but didn't like the look. In the end, I hired a shower-builder who only builds showers the old- fashioned way.... with *mortar and lathe-on-studs.* Of course, with a mortar pan. These guys laugh when they hear anyone refer to chicken-wire as "lathe".

Solid top or tiles curb doesnt matter and is a cosmetic thing. It wasnt built properly to begin with.

Correct. No tiles on curb. So stupid

Magic, lol looking at this I highly. Doubt any top curb pens caused the damage, setting the Hardie into the pan it wicked up for sure. This shower would've been saved with some spacing under the boards and waterproofer like Redgard,Aqua defense etc etc

Latticrete Hydro Ban.

Shower pans are way cheaper and faster. If you do a Schluter pan and membrane you are at $500 or more before tile and labour.

grady 180 yes with Cement board. Not fiberboard/hardibacker.

Godfrey Nilluka So cement board won’t wick like he explained?

@@grady1807 cement board still wicks water but it retains three shape it had when wet. I still think it's a horrible idea to put cement board backers down into a pan like that... just asking for problems.

grady 180 it will still wick. But it doesn’t fall apart like fiberboard(hardie)

America does not seem to be very advanced with liquid applied membranes....all your products we consider very low grade here in New Zealand. Neither of those is tankable, I would use something like MApeilastic Smart or Technokolla ADV Advance or Kerakoll Aquastop Nanoflex...all these are tankable membranes meaning they can take standing water and reverse pressure.

Fibeglass is awful, nothing sticks to it and any exposed fibers can wick...we had a system sold here and it was shit...always avoided those installs like covid21....another bad product of fauci and gates!

So am I better off with ditra or a 40 mil pvc liner? Or would you recommend something else?

I use granite or quartz.

Hardibacker will literally turn into mush, Durock will maintain its structure.

@@Slim-Pickens durock will maintain its structure yes, but it will definitely still wick water. I just pulled apart a shower that had durock and the water was wicked over a foot up. And I'd never put hardie backer in a wet area, waterproofed or not. Not to mention, I said nothing about hardie backer.

@@Slim-Pickens if youd like pictures of the tearout with the water wicked up the durock I can send them to you

Schlueter all the way!!!!!!

We've been putting tile on top of curbs for many decades. It's not what's on top that matters it's the waterproofing underneath that matters. Duh...

@@taylorstevenson8069 i understand people do it, but it doesn't mean you should

Slope on wood, slope on liner, slope on mud...then liquid membrane entire curb and 9 inches up.

Hardibacker does not deteriorate under water. But yes no board should be below grade

@@dwightrapp4788 What can go bellow grade then?

Cement float

@@dwightrapp4788 thanks for the tip i will try to find out how to do that! Thank you again

Wedi, Schluter, Laticrete...any waterproof backer board can go into the pan. Notice top of curb has same problem and it's 4 inches above pan and perforated with nails. Use a topical waterproofingl and or sheet membrane. Using deck mud to hold backerboard tight at floor is fine if you use the right wall material in unison with your chosen pan/waterproofing system. If you hold backerboard above the deck mud you have to put a fastener in the flood area to hold it tight to the wall. If you allow the backerboard edge to float above the pan it will move with extreme changes in heat and humidity, crack the corner joint and allow water to get behind the board and wick up the wall anyway. Look into bonding flange drains and sheet membranes, I guarantee you will like this system.

I was going to say we really need to see what the proper way to do stuff is so we can check installers in our area. He talked briefly about the curb but not enough!

By far, the VERY BEST product on the market is SCHLUETER!!!

I hear ya. Sister has a 1 month old shower already failing. Contractor won't do anything

sorry,document everything,half the job is finding good people

So what’s typically done is, the cement board on top of the curb is screwed in with 3 screws (both ends and middle) and then they put a patch layer on top of the screws and then red guard... it’s the same as all the screws on the walls.. you place the screws in, patch the screws and joints and then red guard over it.. the screws and joints should be covered with 3 coats of red guard and rest 1 or 2 coats is enough!

Because he is not that smart!

how much does something like that cost, haha

@@kevinrogers4747 a plumbing license and a lot of years of experience

What's the chicken wire for, Elwood?

@@deckmonkey1459 This house is located near the San Andreas fault line. If a quake were to rock this house....you know re-bar and cement will keep all the glass safe from a cracking 🤪🙃😂

Diamond lath

So you can mess it up yourself?

It has otherwise the water slopes oposite to the shower

Agreed, that is all coming from embedding the fiber rock in the pan. If he'd have left a 1/2" gap around the pan and waterproofed all the fiber board, that wouldn't have failed

The nails on the curb will allow moisture to get through the liner and into the wood framing. That's the next stage of the failure along with mold, rot.

@@pauldhennessey absolutely they WILL, but that isnt the main issue. Those nail wouldnt have cause the tile on the surrounding walls to fall off. The tiles next to the curb sure, not the back wall. If he would have left a gap between the backer and pan it wouldnt have wicked at all. From there, a topical waterproofing over the fiber rock , curb included would have rendered the screws irrelevant. Not saying those screw wouldnt have leaked but the amount of damage done wasnt do to those 3 screws.

@@hereticxxx9317 The fiberrock backer material is a wrong material in the first place. It soaked up moisture and the tiles lost their bond. The nails penetrating the liner is the next stage of failure.

@@pauldhennessey of course it wicked up water, it was embedded into the pan. Tell me how water can wick if its left 1/2" above the final mud bed and the surface of the fiber board is sealed with a roll on membrane. Will water get through the grout and mortar, yes, will it reach the screws on the curb, nope. It cant get past the the roll on membrane. You don't apply a water proofing to the pan itself or you defeat the purpose of the liner and the 3 piece drain. So your basically building the curb and walls identical to a sealed system minus the bonded flange because your using a liner and 3 piece drain, and your not embedding your backer board of choice. Placing the water proofing directly under the tile is what makes it a sealed system. You don't need a bonded flange to make one, a divot shower is a perfect example of using a 3 piece drain and still making a sealed system. He tried to build a traditional shower using fiber and didnt follow the rules of that product. The screws through the curb( in this case) are not where all that damage came from. Given enough time it would have been since he failed to use a topical membrane. Had he left the gap and sealed up the wall board and any fasteners, there would have been no issues. Water can't wick up a vinyl linear.

Nothing to do with finish selection or grout, they are for looks...it is substrate preparation. If you had a single piece of marble in this then it would take longer to appear as instead of water through grout onto the problem area it would need to capillary action wick up but it would still fail, maybe in 2-3 years instead of 1. Also, because this failed so fast it was picked up by the lay home owner fast. If the marble was hiding it might have proceeded for long enough for the water to get in the nail/screws and ruin the floor and joists below.

Nothing works better when done correctly.

Schlueter is the best product on the market!!!

Yes, especially if you want your shower to last! Schlueter is by far the BEST system out there!

Just keeps the mortar together. What do you use over there?

@@aptpupil no wires. just backer board>water seal>mortar>back buttered tiles

Most likely a rebuild, if the install was done poorly it's not worth leaving the rest up because it could also be done poorly. It's better to start over and know that its done right.

Basically since the original installer wasn’t licensed as required by law in California, no licensed tile guy will want to touch it. But technically it does look very salvageable to me.

MoneyManHolmes I was thinking the same thing. Such a shame when all of that beautiful tile has to be disposed of.

Most likely the niche wasn’t done right either and is slowly leaking into the wall.

Water always penetrates the grout and tile and mortar bed. Since the board wasn't waterproofed it got saturated and the integrity of the fiber in the board broke down and turned to mush. Installer error

@@manuelvega2549 again he told the customer the reason the shower was junk is because of the screws. Which is bs

@@str8menace923 you're right he did say the screws were the reason but he also pointed out the the board was in the mortar bed (big no no) and the curb had no waterproofing so I think he covered it all

Not likely, this failed because of the embedded fiber board. While screws through the curb would have eventually caused failure, it wasnt the main issue here. Had he left a 1/2 gap in the board no wicking would have happened. Then a sheet membrane or roll on over it all would have addressed the screw in the curb

Roofing nails rust the instant they touch water. Those nails looked brand new therefor the nails weren’t the problem.

@@ozzy2753 Aluminum doesn't rust

@@hereticxxx9317 Wicking happens through grout joints. Never nail through a curb liner. Only lazy guys with low skillsets do that

Redguard should never be used in a shower! Redguard requires that the tile be installed with modified thinset. Modified thinset should NEVER EVER be used in a shower! Modified thinset is fortified with latex which is organic and is a food source for mold growth!!!!!!!!! Schlueter is by far the best product on the market!!!!!!!

Brick River yeah you get what you pay for. Whatever it is, it’s not enough 😂

Tyler Crumley if I got what money paid for I’d have a shower glass installed without me having to line it up, a fully painted bathroom closet, and a shower value that goes cold to hot instead of hot to cold. RIP Benjamin Franklins