Who pays ?

Lots of failure and water intrusion video's by this man.. even shows his own call backs. Point being its not timeless quality, just touted as such. Figure in a future problem thats not easily repaired.IMHO,your mileage may differ. Caveat emptor

So I like to learn something new everyday. I did a lot of tile work on a real cheap saw, but it's cool to see that you lifted the tile so there's no extra trimming! Good explanation 👍🏼cheers 🍻

Should the slurry be modified or unmodified thinset if applying to concrete?

I thought that non-mod thinset is used between 2 impervious layers because the mod thinset won't get enough air to dry/cure. Whereas the non-mod thinset uses the trapped moisture to cure. But you are using the mod-thinset to do the corners and the banding which is membrane on membrane??? Thanks

Done many floats and many cement board showers, but nothing is more satisfying than doing a float. As far as floating the dam, maybe give this a try some day. Get a piece of Melamine and cut it the width and length you want for your dam, pack more than enough mud on top and place the Melamine on top and just pound it down while leveling it. Then fill in the sides of the dam and use the Melamine edge as your straight edge to scrap the sides of dam instead of using float strips and measuring. The Melamine guarantees you have the exact width. Next day, hit it with a hammer and it comes right off. Perfect dam every time with less work.

That story about modified/unmodified isn't exactly right. Schluter has always recommended either unmodified or *certain* modified depending on the specific formulation. The issue is that modified needs to dry to reach full strength (and it can't really dry trapped between porcelain and a waterproof membrane, and unmodified gets stronger if it does stay wet longer. But if formulated correctly, modified will be strong enough to use. They got tired of trying to keep track of all manufacturer's formulations and which ones they could put their stamp of approval on. When they starting making their own, of course, they could control it. At that point they got rid of the complaint that you can't use any modified thinset, and at the same time had complete control over the formulation. Not what I would call "crafty" or devious, but simply sure of their installs.

"There's no excuse for this anymore." Well, really there's no excuse for it ever. Schluter's instruction manual is quite clear and almost childishly simple. In fact it's a lot easier to get this right than getting a traditional system right. Now I realize Schluter has changed their packaging over the years, but *somewhere* in those boxes the inside corners came with the materials. What did he think when he had stuff left over??

Terrible contrast between floor and walls, the colors and patterns

Very helpful, haven't done tile in awhile ty

Awesome this just saved me, I was about to do mine with it in the wall, and was scared about catching it on fire.. thanks for the great video

All this video is wrong. Very poor review. Red guard is a great product

Kerdi is trash. I would not use that stuff. Horrible Styroform curb?

is there a reason wh ou one put one clip between tile vs two clips?

can you give me a tip on the sealant. if you want a wet look what would you use? the tiler already grouted with out taking into consideration .. the river rocks should be sealed. thx.

Hi Isaac, I need your help. It’s very urgent. I live in Boston and I am doing my new bath on second floor. I had hired two guys to do pre slope. Each of them have screwed up the slope and both time I demolished the whole structure.

Screwing through your waterproofing liner.......very smart install.

Hey man, why don't you move to Florida so I can attend you classes, ha. 😛

Throw that product out and just use hydro band. It's way better and easier.

Sweet work!

This lasted 20 years? Hmm not bad for using mastic

You the man! You gave me confidence to do mine. I’m definitely calling you if mine fails thanks for your videos . Love you too bro .i live in Fresno so it won’t be that far of a drive

I'm interested in a mud pan class.

Good t-shirt. Totally agree

How you do shower pans is don't do panliners. I'm in dallas tx. Everyone only uses panliners. I learned shower builds years ago in California I have my cti certified . I'm maybe only one don't use panliners. All my jobs are redos from failed panliners. I use laticrete membrane or hydroban and my showers will last 40 or 50 years what a real shower should last. I learned my tile trade in Sacramento California 18 years ago. Texas is the worse state when comes to shower builds. Bunch of contractors here do not know how to really build showers. No inspection here or nothing no flood test either crazy. I live in texas but California builds are by far more Superior

Hi, I probably missed it. May I know the grey caulking/glue used to seal the shower niche at the end? Thanks

Amazing work!

Well first thing I use kerdi but I don’t trust my thinset to be waterproof so anywhere where there is a seam or corner I treat with a waterproofing paint as I do with the walls and joints. Further more i use epoxy grout period. Not urethane or premix grout or Powergrout. I use laticrete Spectralock grout a b and c this stuff is bulletproof. I don’t expect my waterproofing to see and water I believe in it like that

Your showers are completely different than what we are required in Southern CA. We do vapor barrier to the studs, then mesh, then scratch coat, then final coat which ends up about 1 inch thick. You would never be able to tear one out as easily as you just did, because ours are stapled to studs not drywall. I personally have never had a leak in 30 years (knock on wood) doing it the old school way. It is tempting to want to try out some of these other ways, but if it aint broke..... Its nice that you are actually showing us a failure you did, and I enjoy all your videos.

Cement board for shower aera allways

So you don’t slightly slant the threshold into the shower so the water doesn’t puddle there and outside the shower?

I feel that you make things much more complicated than it has to be?

You said that you’re using a “highly modified “ thin set that doesn’t allow moisture to penetrate but you don’t use it to set tile. Why not?

Great video!! I appreciate all the hours you put into making videos for us!

Your a great Coach

How about Litokol Starlike EVO Epoxy Grout?

New subscriber. I’m learning a lot. Thanks for the video!

I’ve been a plumber for 48 yrs. Put in lots of pans but never saw how to bed and tile one. Remodeling my house and came across your video. Thank you! Now I’m ready to tackle this job and do it right!

Steel studs are the way to go..the wood at home depot goes bad. I find myself using wood glue and blocking to keep them straight

I'm really confused. Are you white, black, Asian, or all the above?

Why use new when old way works great if done right will outlast home owners

Awesome. Bought a book decades ago to learn how to do this, but never fully understood how to. Your video have made the difference. Love the positive vibes at the end. Peace back to you.

👍👍👍

Love your videos. That trash bag method 💯

Excellent video! You made it easier to visualize and lay out my pebble floor. Thanks a million.

just like paint, multiple thin coats, not one or two super thick coats. Put it on with a roller or brush, not a trowel.

Im surprised it lasted 20 years without problems. Can't believe they covered over it with tar.

In my opinion the waterproofing should be throughout the bathroom if it's curbless, the big problem that no contractors explain to customers is when you have a toilet backup it's going to flood the lowest points first, so the curbless shower makes a guaranteed flood any time the drain backs up even a little bit, which I've found almost none of my customers snake their drains preventatively they wait till the flood to fix the problem, pretty stupid if you ask me...

Thanks for the video. Can I ask a few questions. 1. What are your thoughts on laying the first row on the main wall and then carrying on to finish the side walls and building up, to eliminate any issues Vs main wall first and then side walls as you're showing. 2. You are leaving a gap on the edge of the wall that looks straight. If the top width of the wall is different to the bottom width, how do you keep the line uniform. This is critical to maintain a vertical edge down. 3. What are your thoughts on shluter edging to deal with the above

Use a noble pre former curb. I've replaced pans where the metal lath punctured the choraloy they failed.