Hey Karl, the plans have been up for 3 years now: stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/paulk-smart-cross-cut-pscc-p27.php

@@TheSmartWoodshop That's the updated one. If we bought that one can we have the plans to this one? I tried using a shelf pin jig for my dog holes on the main bench and they're a wee bit off, so I want a jig I can use that's square for cross cuts for now

Ron's benches are a multiple of 32mm on 96mm centers. the first hole is 32mm from all edges and the second hole from the edge is 96mm. every hole after that is 96mm on center. When you get to the opposite end you will have the last two holes being 32 mm and 96mm from that edge.

I am at that point as well. I may use the second parf stick as as a spacer. I do want the holes perfectly aligned with the track.

The PCB predates switching to metric so the holes are 20mm but laid out 102mm(4") Just ignore the layout on the plans and use the Parf Guide for 96mm spacing. I plan on updating the PCB to be exactly like the STS when I have time. Personally, I would get the STS and build it without the miter stuff and you will have the new PCB that I will be calling the SCB😎🤙

i'm guessing using 3 benchdogs would solve that problem

A pair of Track Racks would work great for this situation. Wouldn't even have to lock them in. Just mount them upside down, stick the track in there when not using it, and that thing won't go anywhere.

@@wichyfication do you have a link for Track Racks?

Link to plans: stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/index.php I use a table saw for narrow rips. I don't have an absolute, but 18" and under the table saw is my goto.

two ways--(with jig above) use a spacer same thickness as your stock but wide enough to support the track. The measurement would be the tape minus your spacer. Make it about 300mm (~12 inches) from stop block to business side of the track, and as wide as you can (parallel to the track cutting side). Second way--use a jig on what is normally the 'waste' side of the track saw. Use 1/2" ply as a bottom for the jig and make 96mm dog holes to index into the bench (like the cutoff side in the SCC). Use 1x as a stop block and mount toggle clamps. Think taper jig for a table saw (slot out the 1x to adjust depth (width) of cut). Just remember--you are cutting on the 'opposite' side of the track, so have to add in the blade kerf to the measurement--the good stock comes out the 'waste' side. If you dont, what you cut is going to be a bit of 2mm short.

I am planning on doing a review of the TSO soon. I am a field beta tester for TSO so my kit is a prototype from a few years ago. I should get the final set soon and after I put them through some testing, I will do a detailed review with my opinion. In short, I use the TSO for a lot, but the SCC is for production. When I build a set of cabinets with many dozen sides like when building the Smart Woodshop I set up the SCC. There is a lot of overlap, but I find plenty of uses for both. We live in a great time when we can get the accuracy and production of a 10' sliding saw with hand tools that go to the job.

Matthew Williams I sold my corded unit as I stopped using it.

John Petsche I have not once miss having a cabinet saw. I get the results of a sliding table saw with my FT track and for rips 18” and under the SS job site table saw works as well as any cabinet saw.

You can find them here. They are popular stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/index.php

I enjoy setting up one for dado and the other for the rest. It is a luxury and not necessary, but nice if you can.

Thanks Ron. I’m planning to do most of your things including the van trailer as I need to shift between home, warehouse and job sites. Your work is going to save me months if not years of exploring. One more question, if the following Festool table saws are both available in NA, which one will you buy to add to your smart workshop: CS 50/70 or TKS 80?

The kerf he mentions then would be in the benchtop. A replaceable insert would moot the issue.

WhoDatBe Dare or CNC.

Of course not. It's massively over engineered and completely unecessary. The holes serve no useful function unless you're face clamping things down. (and even then there's much simpler ways). You just need an 8ft straight batten fixed to one side of your table and two blocks of wood nailed down square to it to rest the track against. This 32mm system shit is getting way out of hand.

@@juancornetto8243 No. You are completely wrong. I have a wood technology degree from EKU. I have worked in multi million dollar wood labs. This system is a complete revolution. It replaces many of the 6 figure machines I used for commercial set ups. It is just as accurate, and much easier to use. The original Festool MFT table is a great idea poorly executed. Ron is a straight up genius. He fixed 90% of Festool's problems for them.

Yes, they are easy to use, but max rip was too narrow.

@@TheSmartWoodshop ahhh I see thanks!!!

David Slinn yeah, I need to watch my words a little better. I rip with, table saw, track, router, miter saw, jigsaw or whatever works best for the task. My intended point was I only break down plywood with a track saw😎

It really only matters if you intend to use the grid for cutting or clamping precise 30, 45, 60 or 90 angles. If so use the Parf Guide II for accuracy of the hole pattern. If not it really doesn’t matter how accurate the pattern of holes. 96mm is based on the 32mm system. I work in both metric and imperial but use imperial tool sizes.

I began woodworking with my father in the mid 50's, and of course I began with "standard measurements" meaning inches and feet. I am now 71 yrs old and working in the shop everyday. Although imperial is easy for me, I made the switch to metric several years ago and find it easier and more accurate in cabinet building. Along with that switch came many Festool replacements for my power tools. going back and forth between metric and imperial isn't a challenge. I opened a drawer the other day and found my first "orange makita" 7.2VDC cordless drill from about a 1975-6 version, but it can't hold a candle in power and performance to my 5+ year old Festool or even some old Milwaukee's & Bosche cordless drills. Ron is a master at what he has done, and with the Paulk workbenches. His making the switch to the 32mm system w 20mm holes on 96mm centers is terrific. I've had an MFT3 table and track saw for maybe 8-9 years now, and the plans for the SCC will replace the MFT3 table/crosscut track. It is GREAT with the Parf Dogs, I just wasn't smart enuff to figure it out......Ron Did it....I used the MFT3 table so much it had to be turned over a couple years ago and I have a lot of "sacrificial" junk plywood laying around, I was just too blind to think about it, instead of ruining the table top. Some of us old dudes have made the switch to metric, I don't think you should have any problem. Thanks for the Awesome Videos Ron, keep 'em coming.

I was very lucky to have access for so long, but it was time to give it back. Good for both of us😎🤙

You would need to make sure that the height of he track then is perfect and will not bend or flex because that could throw the cut out and make it so it is not square.

If this guy is not a surfer I’m buying him lunch every day for a year. Fer sure

Well, no. Jobsite table saws have a limited rip capacity and even if the fence could manage your desired rip, it's sketchy at best to try and run a full sheet on the small table with only a small amount of fence before you get to the blade. Ripping full sheets is a much safer and more accurate with a track saw. Ron is hooking you up with the repeatable production side of things.

@@Monsieur405 Yes. People who have not handled a lot of sheet goods are not going to understand how much we love this system.

I think he meant to say 32mm system. I believe they holes are on 96mm centers. Some multiple of 32.

The distance between centres is 96mm on an MFT table, possibly the confusion comes from a rail that Festool sells designated as LR32, this rail has holes spaced at 32mm on centres and can be used for shelf pin holes. As it is 32mm it can also be used for making centre holes for an MFT table by using every third hole.

frank tartan 32 mm system, 96mm spacing. Industryvstandard

@@TheSmartWoodshop Thanks. I like that system.

@@brandonthebuildertx thanks, ron gave clarification below.

As far as i know it stem from the period just after WWI. They needed/wanted to mass produce furniture and the closest you could get drill heads together was 32mm

@@tomfirens1400 hey thanks for the reply, Tom. I guess that makes sense as an origin though i don't see the business case in 2019 for 96 vs 100. SO much horrible arithmetic and risk of error for no good reason. I am very happy my certiflat welding fixture table has 100.00 mm centres, and i plan to stick with that when setting out for the torsion box woodwork bench with hole grid that i am planning. Regards, Nev

Or you can get a FastCap dual scale rape measure for $10 that has marks every 32mm. I work in both metric and inland you get the sizes into your head after a while. 50mm is about 2 inches...

It's not relevant to woodworking I don't suppose, but 32 is a nice round number in computers, which use binary. 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256, 512, 1024, etc. As a software developer, I quite like it. I even had a 32nd birthday party instead of a 30th. :)