I don't own a revolver but after watching your informative video, I am going to buy one just to take it apart and lube it like you did.

I can not believe that a revolver has more springs than a semiautomatic pistol. Great video.

Great camera …great instruction….best I’ve ever seen on SW revolver. U make look very easy.

Wow! I can't thank you enough. This is so helpful to many of us.

All those springs! You make this look about 6,000 times easier than it actually is.

Awesome video! Extremely helpful, clear, and concise. I have many semi-automatics, but I am a newbie on revolvers. Thanks so much!

I just used your tutorial on my Dad's 1965 Model 17 K22 Masterpiece. It was really stiff when i used it last weekend. It was purchased new by his Dad as a high school graduation gift. Oh my gosh, is this revolver smooth again. I asked him if he had ever had it serviced or ever had its sideplate off. He said he took the plate off once, looked at it, and was afraid to take it apart any further for fear of messing it up, so he put it back and never touched those screws again. Thank you so much for the step by step instructions.

The only video I've seen that makes me think that I can do some of this myself. Particularly appreciate the tip on using lighter fluid instead of a complete teardown. Subscribed cuz of this video.

This is fascinating. I could watch this video 100 times. And I still wouldnt take it apart like this alone. But it's nice to see what makes guns go BOOM When the trigger is pulled.

Just had to replace that tiny spring on my “cylinder stop” (S&W “Model 603”) and man you were correct that was not easy to get back into place. The original factory finally wore out (1981 S/N) and the original “cylinder stop” had developed an odd burr on the lip of the hole the spring sits in. Pistol was not functioning correctly in DA mode (misfiring every 10-12 rounds) but was fine is SA. Clearly this created a timing issue due to the tension on the “cylinder stop” not being within ideal spec. I opted for “factory new” & “remove & replace”. Lubed & oiled and it’s back up to 100% functional! Excellent tutorial!

Very detailed and has encouraged me to attempt this procedure on all my wheel guns . Well done and thank you!

Today I picked up my S&W 586. Thanks for the helpful video. Subscribed.

This was excellent, thank you. I inheritied a S&W mod 64-3 38spl and this helps tremendously.

Thanks for your great video, gives me the confidence to get in there and do a thorough job.

So, using this video and your Wolff springs video I was able to update my 617-6 with a Wolff spring kit and thoroughly clean and lube it. Couldn't have done it without you, thanks. In this video you mentioned some places that you had polished. Hoping you would comment or even do a video on how and what to polish to smooth things out. Wish Wolff would include the set screw. I went to 3 stores before I found the right one.

I have a 686, I don't know if I want to go through all of that to clean and lubricant my 686.Thanks for the tip on using lighter fluid and other lubricant/cleaning spray to lubricant the parts without taking everything apart. But great video on how to take the 686 apart to lubricant it!

Great video for information 👍🏿

I would like to add some advice to this video. Before you remove the sideplate, back off the strain screw from the mainspring. When the sideplate is on, those pivot posts, especially the hammer pivot post, is supported from two sides, the frame side and the sideplate side. With the sideplate removed, all of that tension provided by the mainspring is held on that pivot post from only one side. It is possible to bend the post or even break it off of the frame. A very small amount of tension is all you need to hold the parts together and to function test (and see) the action with the sideplate off. I sort of cringe when I see a part being pried off from the frame. If you jam a screwdriver between the rebound block (or slide) and the frame, you can gouge scratches into either or both parts. Brownells sells a nice tool that compresses that strong spring to let you gently lift up the rebound block. As long as you have the rebound block out of the frame, you can replace that spring with one with a lower compression strength. Buy a few extra springs as I guarantee that you will eventually launch one into the deepest darkest corner of your room. Otherwise, a very nice presentation.

Great video man! Thank you

Brake Clean is a good product and I use it for spray cleaning metal parts /components ! It dries very quickly and leaves no residue!

Damn! You're a surgeon, brother!

That's a mighty fine tutorial! I'll try this on a Model 36 J-Frame.

Thanks a bunch! Very well done.

Excellent!

Thanks for video!🤘

I learned. Thank you.

Great video thanks

great video im sure ill watch it every time i clean 686

Wow! Thanks so much!

I use a larger Phillips and the post fits pretty good in the "groove" and push and push down with the other hand until the spring catches on the post and then push it on down with a small flat screwdriver...

Where's that "link" to the video you said you'd put in the description?

FYI If it's a Smith & Wesson it's a "Yoke" if it's almost any other revolver it's a Crane. That's if we are using the correct Nomenclature. LMFIAO Best part about a wheel gun is it's hard for the lubricants to attract any carbon unlike a Semi-auto pistol. Also if you run out of cartridges you can always use it as a club, can't do that with Polymer guns.

A few tiny drops of oil or clp in actionable parts would suffice, work the action a bit and let it do it's job. Any use thereafter will help keep the parts moving and well lubed without gunking up the works.

useful! thanks!

Thanks for the vid. But please get yourself a specialty tool for de/installing the trigger rebound slide. It makes your life so much easier. (And looks really professional)

What a great video! Let me ask you, i am assuming you have slicked up your gun yourself. If so, what material do you use for that? I would guess that it’s something like varying grades of Diamond sandpaper and/or paste? Just curious on what you prefer . Thanks so much

Yes I was going to mention the phillips head screwdriver--the "channel" in the bit allows it to go over the post---it will at least catch the post then I use a small screwdriver to push the spring on down...

You could mention to people not to remove the hand from the trigger. You did not do it in the vid but people should know that if you do there's a tiny torsion spring inside the trigger that applies pressure to the hand that's a real PITA to get back in place correctly.

Thank you. I have a 686 Plus. I am getting ready to install replacement trigger bar & striker pin / springs from TKC and I want to take it “all the way down”. I’m no expert but a 40 year aircraft turbine tech and I have a pretty good gunsmith area set up. A was considering using Otis dry lube back here or even dry graphite spray grease on certain friction points. 12:25 Would love your input on that please. Thanks again; your video is now my “official” “how to” video. Wish me luck but please reply with suggestions & comments. Thanks… Gene

I wonder how many people are gonna have to take their revolver to someone to put it back together after watching your video that would be interesting

I have a question, just purchased a new old stock 586 no dash new in the box , from sitting for so many years do u think this need to be done ?

Can you please share some information on this firearm. I jus purchased a older 38 special s/w 67-6 . It also has the Floating firing pin . I am Seeking information and You Kinda look like your up on your Game . Thank you . carl

Great tutorial video big thumbs up ,Question; is it okay to use Brake Fluid to clean inside of Gun

I have a model 67-1 sometimes the cylinder seems to stick. Do you think that is a cleaning issue?

Newly subbed - Thanks for the video - I just put a deposit on a 686, last week One Question *:* Do all recently manufactured 686s have the round butt grip ?

Is it normal to have scratches in the cylinder I just bought one and noticed there’s marks from the cylinder rotating is that ok?

Trev. from Australia, what thread type and length is the Allen screw your used to replace the main spring screw?

where is that link you were talking about, another take apart video? Nice job, I have started to do the same with my guns. Love to see how they work and clean em up a little.

How often should a revolver be cleaned like this ?

Yoke on S&W, crane on Colt.

Take it down way more than I would ever attempt to

The gun needs to be broken down that far just to be lubricated?

Hi again… I don’t see a link to the video you mention. Am I missing something. When I go in to do the TKC mods; besides cleaning; I plan to use a low speed battery dremel and some buffing attachments & Flitz and polish every thing up. Again… Hope you’re still out there; read this and send feedback. Thanks again… Gene

Way too much grease and oil. There’s a reason these revolver come from the factory mostly dry inside.

Out of curiosity how close is this video to a S&W 66 in parts and their location if attempting the same objective?

Its your revolver my friend but myself ZI would make sure the hammer safety was installed not finding fault just trying to be safe

Thx for this video. I just subscribed. I'm same w 'Can't Dance' below. WD-40 maybe another watery semi-lubricant to spray out the dirt from the non-removed innards. I don't know which wld b better, Ransom or WD-40 but worth an experiment, find how smooth the trigger-hammer operation is. I'm wondering if ur Stainless (or Nickle?) revolver has the MIM innards as u have that Hilary Hole. Are the innards stainless too (use a magnet)? If so, dat'll b great as they won't rust n shouldn't b needing frequent clean up for a wheel gun vs. automatics w un-burnt powder messing up the innards. Hey, let the TopperWear plastic gun lovers enjoy plastic innards too, no lube, no rust? But he still need to get rid of the powder unlike the wheel gun?

There is a tool designed to remove and insert the rebount spring.

Why don’t you keep the block in

586-1 ..why does my cylinder move way too far reward out of alignment when I push the Ejector rod. Like 1/2-3/4 too far back..have to “Snap it” forward to get it back in alignment to close…..you look like would know. Bad cylinder? Bad yoke journal…my 36 and 64 never have done this…had the cylinder out and completely apart..cleaned and Ballistol…..no help.

Why remove the transfer bar? I’m only asking for education purposes I’ve never heard of that being done.

Could you just hit that with some brake cleaner, throw some lube in there and be done? The disassembly looks tough

Not a good idea when you live in a state where temperatures get below zero in winter. Oil and grease will freeze and lock your gun up. Leave it alone

Where's the missing link?

You mention proper screw drivers, but don’t tell us which one it is?

You don't have to go that far

scam...you dont need any special lube for your gun

Do you put oil on the cylinder release mechanisms?

do you this strip down and lubrication yearly or something??