I have been using the LEWIS LEAD Remover for sixty plus years now with no complaints as far as a cleaning tool. Works great! Saves time. They come in various calibers.

This is the most informative video I have seen on the subject. Thank you for putting it together.

Great tip on the powder residue getting under the ejector and binding up the cylinder. Had it happen on my 44 special once and I was heart sick until I mentioned it to a counter guy at the range ( at GATS ) He knew right away what the problem was. Man, what a relief!! I'm not a real big revolver guy, and I had no idea what was up. Great info.!

I'm liking the Stainless steel 4 inch barrel look, on the GP100, I have a blued steel 6 inch model. I have never missed a shot with it. Such a great gun.

Thank you for this very well made video.

Thanks for the heads up! Now I know how to clean my new Ruger GP100 revolver.

Excellent video man...gave me great tips for cleaning my new Ruger GP100...🧙‍♂️🦅

Thank you . Your video was very helpful to me.

You are a real Pro!!! very useful video man!

Hi really enjoyed you cleaning your gun you taught me a few tricks and I appreciate you did a good job your friend Walter

Excellent video - I learned a lot - so glad I found this!

Excellent video! I have a new S&W 627 which I just shot for the first time yesterday (my first revolver) and learned several things that will be applicable for when I clean it today. Really like the idea of the bore snake immediately after shooting, the use of foaming agent and the lubing process. Thank you very much sir!

Finally someone talked of the powder getting under the star . It can become a big issue... thanks. Good video

Excellent cleaning video with great helpful tips!

Didn't know about the lead cloth. Pretty cool, thx.

Great video!! My only advice is to cover your firing pin while running the brushes down the barrel just to avoid any unwanted damage to the firing pin. Cheers!

Good video. Thanks for the information.

Really informative and helpful video!

Great video and very informative. I have two .357 magnums and use Blue Wonder gel to clean the carbon out of the cylinders and barrel, and also any copper fouling.works great to use with steel wool to remove any rust and carbon rings as well. Excellent product to use as directed an cuts cleaning time to less than 15 minutes for a good cleaning and detailing of your firearms.

I just got my first revolver a 686 357 Mag Plus Deluxe with a 6 " barrel this is an outstanding video now I know what products / tools I need to buy and how to properly clean a stainless steel revolver great job thanks!

This man is serious about his cleaning

great video man, learned some stuff

I use ultra bright tooth paste to get the powder burns off the cylinder. Works fast and easy. Use a stiff toothbrush.

Excellent video. Thanks.

Excellent Video! Thanks

Thank you Chris great detail!

Looks awesome man. Those lead remover cloths are a must have for stainless revolvers.

Good tips on the basic cleaning of a revolver. I take the extra minute to remove the crane and cylinder before cleaning to avoid tweaking the crane to frame alignment by being too ham fisted with my cleaning tools.

Good detailed vid as some good info...Good stuff...

When I use to shoot often I would shoot lead. Before I left the range I'd ]shoot 6 rounds of FMJ. It helps clean some lead out of the barrel.

Thanks for the informative video, I learned thing's and thought I was too old to be taught anything firearm... You learn something everyday, if your Lucky...

Tornado brushes, Hoppes Elite, and elite gun cleaner. Oh man you clean your Ruger GP 100 the same way I clean mine. One recommendation is use the metal care cloth from Pro-Shot as it leaves a film over the gun that takes all the oils from your fingerprints and just gives a stainless gun the extra shine that really looks good. One of my absolute favorite cleaning products for firearms.

Bore snakes. Great for dragging dirt from the previous pass through the next one. Like using a dirty bore brush over & over.

Great job!

Great video! Great looking thumbnail! Keep up the great work!

Great Video nice revolver

Great video

solid video man!

Thanks for the video. New subscriber. Take care

Thank you for sharing. Incredibly useful and helpful!

nice job on the video

great video ..i'm going to get GP 100 and start to re clean it..

I clean like you do but I never saw that foam cleaner so I will get that. One thing I do is put a rag and my hand behind the forcing cone when I push rod down the barrel to prevent hitting the firing pin. I'd rather it hit my rag covered hand than the firing pin. Great vid.

I was happy (and sad) to hear you're In Illinois. It's a terrible gun state we live in. Love the channel.

I'll be ordering some foam cleaner. Thanks for the video! I learned a lot.

Love the content. My only recommendation is that you should consider using video editing software to reduce the load noise produced by the firearm. With that said, I use CLR to clean off the cylinder burn marks for stainless or chrome revolvers (don't use on any other metals). Just make sure to only use it for a few minutes and to use a neutralizer afterwards since it is caustic.

GREAT video! Thanks! I generally use Ballistol as my cleaner/lube, but I would like to incorporate the foaming cleaner in my process. Does it conflict with the Ballistol? Which would you use first?

Nickel per round. You had no idea how funny that was going to be two yrs ago!

Great video please do the GP100 cylinder mine doesn’t spin as freely

All in all, good cleaning tips, I have five revolvers, Smiths, Rugers, and the only revolver Kimber makes, the k6s, all my guns are stainless, I recently tried using CLP, instead of Hoppes, and it seems to work better on getting the lead and dirt off the forcing cone, again thanks

Great info

Thank you friend

Use Lead-Out on the cylinder rings followed by Patch-Out in the bore and Cylinder chambers and rings. Every revolver cylinder I have ever used that stuff on looks like it has literally never been fired. the Lead-Out strips EVERY deposit off and degreases down to the bare metal so reapplying rust protectant to the metal, even stainless, is essential. The dissolved lead is revealed in a grayish white foam that is wiped from the gun with almost no effort. THAT dear son, is how you clean a revolver in 10 minutes to absolutely new condition.

Thoughts on Froglube for Revolver cleaning? Just bought my first revolver.....44 Ruger Redhawk.

Polishing Ruger's rough chamber walls will ease in extraction, brass life, cleaning, fouling. Cutting a nice accurate 11° forcing cone with a quality reamer also helps. Uniforming the cylinder throats to identical diameters also helps. Rugers need help. haha

Good stuff, young man. I realize this is not an every day or every use type of cleaning. If you shoot a lot of .38 spl out of a .357 magnum gun, I recommend thorough cleaning more often. I would recommend cutting the Birchwood Casy cloth into smaller pieces. That way you can took them out without over using.

Thank you. What is the best bore snake and foaming products you didn’t say brand. Where is best to buy? 😊😊😊

Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber also a great way of getting the filth out. It just runs out of there which makes cleaning such a walk in the park.

There is a reason for all design aspects of all modern firearms. DO NOT ALTER YOUR GUN, just practice, & yes keep it clean. Respect.

Crud was responsible for jamming up my S&W mod 638 Bodyguard! I couldn’t open the cylinder, actuate the shrouded hammer... Nothing, It was stuck! Smith & Wesson fixed it by cleaning the gun throughly! I learned my lesson!

What powder are you using?? I use Win 231. After 50 rounds my Ruger SP101 is still very clean.

J-B Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound cleans fouling off like you wouldn’t believe and won’t harm the finish. Been using it for 25 years. Own a nickel boron bolt and carrier you just can’t get clean to original finish. Use a dab of jb on a patch and the burnt look disappears. Shits for real, works great

Have you ever used a microfiber cloth sprayed with WD-40 silicone spray to do a final wipe down. That silicone film will not attract dirt as much as a coating of oil will and the fouling will normally wipe right off.

Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish. Takes all the fouling off easy and polishes entire gun to a spit shine

What size barrel is your revolver? Debating on the 4” or 5”. Intentions are for a fun range gun, bedside gun, camping gun. Thoughts?

You've turned a 5 min task into a 40 min video. Don't over think cleaning a pistol. I've got right around 200k rounds through my 1974 Mod 19 using little more than Hoppes 9, a little oil and occasionally an aggressive bore scrubber every few thousand rounds. I shoot a LOT of 2.7gr Bullseye/148 SWC target loads as well...probably the dirtiest load you can shoot. Pistols do NOT need to be spotless to be dead on accurate. As a matter of fact you can do more HARM than good when getting so aggressive so often. I have 40 years of shooting to back this up...These aren't fragile little toys. They can take quite a bit of use and abuse. No need to go all OCD. Don't get me started on people fretting over the burn marks on the cylinder...Oh...patches are cheap. Don't keep running that same dirty patch in and out of the chambers. Run the ONE WAY as well. Buy a few bags of "Pro Shot" cotton patches. Cheap patches are a waste of time and money. Same goes for cheap jags/brushes. Buy a good set of brass jags.

Great information!!! Thank you for sharing!!!

I just inherited an old smith and Wesson revolver and wanted to clean it up.

On my "security six," these rings were not so much a carbon ring as they were a more re-inforced 1/4" of steel insert to accept the bullet wear better. The difference very obvious in the two different types of metals. As far as smoke, I get the most smoke and carbon off the lead round nose ammo. Most of my ammo, every box of a $1000.00 don't smoke at all and won't even blacken a piece of cloth. I do have a question on cleaning, sometimes I'll get lazy and not clean as soon as i'm thru and might even shoot again tomorrow without cleaning. I do realize these dirt spot can be burned into the barrel and cause problems but I'd just like to have your opinion. Nice Shootn', bet your pistol's quite warm. eeh. Happiness is a warm gun.

I shoot pretty much only lead bullets threw my 500 magnum 440, 500 and 700. All are hand loads and she gets extremely dirty probably fired about 100 rounds of lead and haven't clean her but always removed the lead out of the barrel with a normal brush after every 15-20 rounds to remove the lead. Can't wait to try it on the outside of the cylinder etc...

Few things I learned over the years. Hopes 9 made me nauseous and sick from the fumes, I dread it cleaning my guns, I was being cheap and it was killing me until I did some research and ordered boretech carbon remover, it's about 20 bucks for 16oz But it doesn't smell like chemical at all! In fact i think it's water based. When you wash your hands later it feels like they're soapy. Most important in does amazing job cleaning out the carbon deposits that get burnt on that are so hard to remove. Also I should mention, I had no problem whatsoever shooting magnum loads after 38spl. I shot about 50 magnums and 200-300 38spl reloads reloads and 80 magnum reloads and had cases extract easily. This is when I finally decided to clean it lightly.

If my 38 Special is loaded in his Rusty how can I clean it

Good video! Very thorough and detailed. I'll add my 2 cents if I may.... If you're an avid shooter and shoot a lot like you, invest in a couple more cleaning rods so you don't have to keep changing out from a brush to a mop, to a patch jag, etc. It saves a ton of time and agravation. Use good bore brushes. The cheap ones have cut ends that are sharp and can scratch the back face of the frame wall should the cleaning rod get away from you when cleaning the bore. The better ones are looped on the end and much less likely to scratch or ding anything Final word on bore brushes. Bore brushes are for cleaning bores and charge holes only. All the nooks and crannies or under the extractor should be cleaned using a general purpose (tooth) brush. I prefer nylon GP brushes but whatever suits your fancy. In my experience, I found that most people tend to over lubricate. If you find it dripping from the gun or pooling in some areas, it's over lubricated. Excess oil tends to attract dust, dirt and fouling. Excess oil can also damage a good leather holster. Oil over time can congeal and gum up the works. Especialliy prone to over lubrication, and you touched on it, is under the extractor and the recess it sits in. I use Hoppe's No9 like you and find that it has just a trace of lubricant in the formula that is sufficient for that area to prevent rust. I clean that area then wipe it with a clean dry patch. If you feel you must use oil, then one small drop, work the extractor a few times to distribute the oil, then wipe the area with a clean dry patch. This is especially important when cleaning the shorter barreled (2-2.5") revolvers as they tend to produce a lot of unburned propellant. If I don't plan on shooting for a few weeks or more, I use a shaving brush I've sprayed with gun oil to lightly brush all the metal surfaces. It's handy in that it's quick, it gets in all the small areas, under ventilated ribs, etc. and leaves a little heavier layer of oil than I would normaly apply. When I take it out of the safe I give it a quick wipe down with a cloth to remove the excess and off I go. Again, a good video. Hope I've added to the discussion.

had to watch this again.....my 620 was pretty bad

Lucas polymer safe gun cleaner Instantly cleans everything else

Love the way you pound the cleaning rod down the muzzle of that revolver. I’ll bet the crown is really worn.

Do u have cylinder drag marks on your cylinder

i struggle a bit with my 686, the screw holes for the rear sights kinda forces a jet of fire onto the top of the cylinder, really hard to clean off those marks, take twice as long to clean up than the rest of the revolver, annoying as hell

Your wheel gun is well taken care of

Is that a 5” or 6” Ruger. Thanks

As far as lubricant goes I like a CLP like break Free or similar Reason being that dirt does not get stuck to it like regular oil.. also if you own a revolver with a titanium cylinder.. do not use a harsh solvent.. and use a nylon brush instead of a brass brush.. the reason is you can ruin the coating on a titanium cylinder. And then the cylinder will wear much quicker..

Impressive. I’m picking up my GP 100 Model 1771 4.2” .357 7 shot today. Most helpful! Saved.

Dang the things we gotta do to make a test subject. You had to shoot it to get it dirty again, nuggets. Good stuff informative. I'm not a fan, even if it's made safe, of looking down the barrel of any gun or pointing it at anyone. That's just me.

Lead cloth will take most fouling off in short order

hello do you know revolver alpha proj 3541s 357mag construction czech republic opinions thanks in advance

..I saw a cylinder that had lead rings that prevented 357 from being chambered...our gunsmith told ne it came from using wadcutters and not scubbing the cylinder after each use.. 35 years ago he used mercury to clean them...

Debating on getting a revolver to add to the collection do you recommend.357 or .44?

Hoppes9 is out dated or a weak cleaner. Look up Rimfire Blend from Bore Tech. This stuff works great. Apply to a patch and let soak for 1 minute then run clean dry patch through bore. Little to no scrubbing needed.

Bore brushes and rods are obsolete, except for the chambers ,as are lead bullets Bore snakes are the way to go

you have made a very informative video here and you have 100% the right idea. Revolvers take a lot more careful cleaning then autopistols, which are a breeze by comparison. I was very surprised by how much cleaning they need, after 6 or 7 (I've lost count) autopistols, I got my first revolvers (Charter arms .44 buldog, Ruger GP101 .357)) because regardless of bullet type; the lead just keeps coming out, even days later. I just wet the bore with a oil patch then right to the Tornado brush! Since I know I am going to wind up using it at some point anyway. 4 or 5 passes with that, then cleaning the face of the cylinder (more tons of lead on here) and the forcing cone area (brass brush and kroil until i start to see the metal again...) BTW I hate to point this out but, I always pad that area in the frame with a rag or even old sock, in that part where when the rod pushes out it doesn't bash into it (OUCH) I found the bore foam, while effective on other guns, does diddly squat for the revolver bore. Doesnt touch the lead one bit. I have already resigned myself that even the post-shooting session cleaning isn't going to clean it completely, I will have to clean it all over again at least one more time since, somehow, some dirt seems to work its way out of the metal (at least this is what the patches keep showing me).

Nice flagging of your face for a second there lol

Gloves might be handy while gun cleaning...

cant find Birchwood casey at any gun store, Amazon?

When I am done shooting Lead Rounds through a Gun I Finish Up by Shooting a couple of Rounds of Copper Jacketed Bullets through the Gun to Force Out most the Lead Buildup making a Clean Up Easier later on in the day. That is my Opinion and Routine anyway.

You should be wearing gloves to protect your skin when using chemicals to clean your firearms. Also be real careful when using the rod when entering and exiting the crown of the muzzle or better yet use a brass tapered tool made to protect the crown when cleaning the bore. It's possible to do damage to the crown if you're not careful and it will affect accuracy in a big way.

Nice gun...is that a 5 or 6"?

Damn I wouldnt mine buying a used gun off of u...you clean the crap out of that revolver

when i clean my gp100 i always take the grips of

The biggest problem with cleaning revolvers is getting the forcing cone clean , if anyone out there knows how to best clean a forcing cone I’d greatly appreciate it .Its also important to use gloves when cleaning with solvents , solvents are know to cause cancers , we firearms owners use these nasty chemicals for years so we must use gloves every time we clean our shooting irons . I noticed that you using the foam cleaner without first having completely removed the Hoppes solvent from the barrel and cylinder , I’m not sure that mixing different solvents and cleaners together is a good idea. Best to use degreaser before applying a different chemical cleaner .Scotchbrite with Hoppes #9 gets the carbon off the front of the cylinder, rub lightly and it clean it up just fine .

What do you guys think about NOT removing the burn rings in front of the cylinder so that it might take up a portion of the gap between the forcing cone and the cylinder thus increasing the muzzle velocity? Say you have .005 clearance and you let the burn rings to build up to decrease that to say .004 ? Think about installing a new exhaust system/manifold in a truck which will have tiny leaks at gasket surfaces initially, but after a while with the help of that diesel soot, all those tiny cracks will be filled up and everything will be airtight...