I LOVED MACHINE SHOP, I CAN ALMOST HEAR MR VANHOOSE'S VOICE IN THE BACKGROUND, HE WAS A DAMN GOOD GUY, ALWAYS TRYIN TO TALK TO US WILDER ONES, MACHINE SHOP WAS THE ONLY THING THAT KEPT ME IN HIGH SCHOOL

All the time and effort you expend to teach as you go is greatly appreciated.

Hats off to Tim for saving those parts and sending them to you. What a great guy.

Man, these SNS's get better every week

You are America. Hard working, tough-smart. Excellent vids. Thanks.

Adam, you are much beloved. What a cool thing for your fan to salvage those parts for your sharper​.

I used to be a roofing contractor in a previous life. I did the early single ply back in the 80's. That's very different from what we used to do. We used flames. What could go wrong? The viewer who got you those parts is an angel!

“We are always learning!” yes! I do wish more people would take that to heart.

Appreciate your mechanical detective work to determine the proper fix. And your meticulous efforts to get it right. Thanks for another great video!

Very well kept shop. Neatness is a sign of good organization and thinking. Keep teaching us.

Always comes back to our progenitors.Your Grandad,and Dad had foresight. Knowing those tools saved, shall be used again&again. It's a thrill for myself, when I use grandad&dads passed down tools,knowing they used exactly the same ones for the same thing.I suppose it is continuity which is the key to all our lives.

I realy like that you have a project again, that binds everything to a certain context. Great video!

That is awesome Adam, I love it when you give a treat with a mid week video. Thanks for sharing your content.

Adam - Working on the shaper is the most enthusiastic I have ever seen you. I have watched all the previous videos, and I think the shaper is your favorite tool!!! I also enjoy this project - machine restorations are so much fun - teardown, cleanup and put it back together again.

Thanks for going through the reasoning on recutting the thrust face. Down here in south Texas, there isn't a lot of good equipment available. Most has been rode hard and put up wet. Finding anything that hasn't got a lot of wear due to hammer mechanics and just plain neglect is impossible. These kinds of tips and seeing how you identify and rectify them helps me immensely. Here's a BIG TEXAS THANK YOU!!!!

Midweek Abom alert FTW! You’re a legend (especially under the circumstances🏗)

Heya Adam, I have been on a binge of your videos for the past few weeks, I am a tradesman myself in mechanical repair and I really wanted to convey how satisfying I find your craftsmanship, from the care of your machines and equipment, to the manufacture and repair of jobs, I think your skills and care are outstanding, even passing on gifts given to you to someone who may need it more aka paying it forward. Regards, Jake from Western Australia

Adam, your videos are the best thing on the entire internet!! 38:00-43:00 demos your total knowledge and comfort with the machine and operation. Don't hold out on us thou, how is the diet and fitness going?

Hi Adam. Keep on doing what you do - your videos are a gold mine for would-be machinists. You stay with the fundamentals, do your best to err on the safe side and show appropriate respect for the workmanship that was behind the quality of the vintage machine tools you use. Rechasing a leadscrew thread is is a monumental challenge. Here are two tips that are too late for your G&E project but may help you or one of your subscribers in the future. In order to insure accuracy and durability the process for machining a K&T milling machine table screw included 37 operations. STRAIGHTENING preceded every machining operation and follow rests were used for all thread chasing and grinding.. The leadscrews were slotted to transmit power to reverse table travel and also drive accessories like dividing heads, rotary tables and low-lead attachments. Milling the slot invariable created a bow in the screw and also made all of the subsequent operations more difficult For accuracy and surface finish, the threads were finished by grinding and the lead accuracy was checked by a lead screw inspection machine manufactured by Zeiss - resources beyond most machine shops. Bottom line for best results when rechasing - first straighten within .001 TIR and use a follow rest.

I got excited when you went to your Grandad's toolbox to get the gauge and tool bits. Bloody awesome

Heck of a score getting both spare and MISSING parts for your shaper! Cheers, Gary

Good detective work Adam. You walked it through logically and with good measurements to back it up. Enjoying the shaper series very much. _Dan_

That's a handy lesson right there to chase out a damaged ACME, thank you Adam.

It never fails I learn something new every time I watch your videos. Thanks for sharing.

So much respect to you. I would be sweating sooo much working on a tapered leadscrew like that. Professional through and through!

Looking at the spare parts , you lucked out , big time ! :-) Just shows you the quality of some of your viewers . Wyr God bless

Thanks for showing the thread chasing.

Greetings from Norway. It feels so good when the roof are holding all of the rain outside the house, I still can feel that feeling now, 3 years after my roof was done. And what a present, all those spare parts, it was mighty. Thank for the video.

Watching you chase those threads was so dang cool. You are a true master of what you do!! Thanks for another excellent video in the series.

Now that's what I like, solving every day problems with machines.

I work at a valve shop where we deal with lots of acme threads for stems and drive bushings for the actuators. I was always taught when making a new stem and nut to give between .008 and .010 clearance. For example if a stem is 2.250 on the major, the minor on the nut should be 2.260. I'm sure machine tools should have closer tolerances, but then again I always make sure to get backlash out before making a cut. As always, you're videos are awesome and it never fails that I learn something.

I am NOT a machinist. Only lathe come metalworking was at school. But I find this channel and Adam fascinating. Keep up the brilliant work you do Adam. Looking forward to your future uploads.

Really enjoying this project and cannot wait for more!

You know you are legit when you use your hook scale to scrape some stuff out of a groove. lol

A big Thank you to Tim Indeed! That shaper must think it has died and gone to heaven! Great video Adam, Thank You.

I'm looking forward to see how you make the thin bronze washer. Thanks for the video.

From roof to spare parts - ya hit them all! Wishing well on the roof and glad for you on them parts. Never enough spares on hand

Bonjour monsieur je trouve vos travaux formidables merci pour cette précision 👌

If you set the lathe to 5 tip and engage the half nut then put the indicator tip on the crest of the thread and rotate the spindle the indicator will follow the thread crest the length of the thread.

The "power of the internet" ! Who woulda thunk that some one would find and (a;most) identical machine !!

WTG Tim!! thinking you made his day....

Hi Adam, well, at least money on a god roof is money well spent! That lead screw is less buggered than I thought, it will be interesting the new nut being made!! Nice job!

Straightening Acme screws. This is what i was taught back when: once you get the kinks out of an aacme screw you often have shallow bend that are a nightmare to remedy. You can sneak up on wtraight by peening the root. Grind a suitable cold chisel straight across to just seat in the root flat - kinda like a bobbing chisel but flat. Dress a small radius on the chisel corners so you dont bung up the thread flanks. The object is to peen the thread root to introduce compressibe stresses in the CONCAVE side of the bend. Increasing the material stress will expand the metal an important trifle and cause the thread to bend - or in this case, UN-bend. This work is best performed on a heavy table like a machine table with an underlying aluminum sheet to protect the thread crests from table impact. The flat table serves as a convenient reference surface to roll the screw across to test for straightness. I suddest instead of bronze thrust washers you instead use flat needle bearing thrust washers. They are very hard, thin, work well against cast iron, cheap, and available from most any bearing supply house. www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=thrust+needle+bearings&tag=googhydr-20&index=industrial&hvadid=176292664493&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4708441148914379670&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033413&hvtargid=kwd-3468903903&ref=pd_sl_22exucduh1_b Shop around and you can buy the hasd washer separately. Give you a little kick to use a tool your dad ground?

It is great to see the power of community effort! Excellent score for Eagle Eye Tim!

Glad you got the roof taken care of, they've made a lot of improvements over the years with roofing systems. That was great you found a bit ground by you Dad and were able to put it into use again for another job.

"Totally unnecessary exhaust" Could not agree more!

It might be that the "missing" key on the shaper is not missing at all. The brass pins might be shear pins to protect the bevel gear?

I only subbed not too long ago so it was really cool seeing you bring out some of the old tools passed down to you from your family.

I'm happy to see you get all these parts for the shaper, feels good to find wayward parts. Can't wait to see them cleaned and fitted up.

A few words about hammers: I believe the hammer is and was the very first tool man used; it may have been in the form of a rock or a stick but man used it to beat on objects to break, pulverise, or simple move things where he wanted them to be. We can see looking at the wide differences in hammers we see and use today from small tiny ones to very large and heavy ones and they all are specific for a use in the tasks they do. I observed maybe 30 years ago that many people use hammers to make things fit objects in the work they do. Often this comes in the form of beating the daylights out of something and therein lies the issue. When we move or adjust things with a hammer there is no need to pound with a hammer and often we cause damage to parts or eventually destroy things from pounding on them so I decided to avoid beating on things and use other means and methods to align and fit things together. I can use clamps to draw parts together leaving little or no marks on parts and a dead blow hammer or a rubber or other non marring hammer works great as well. It is the end result that turns out better and makes things last longer and certainly cuts down on wear. There is a time and place to pound and beat materials to make something such as drop forging and anothers essential trade of blacksmithing but we should resist the urge to beat on objects and see if we can make sure parts can fit together without beating on them. Realization of this is related to possessing some measure of patience but we can all agree when things and properly made correctly there is less of a need to beat on things with a hammer to force things together unless required. That is my 2 cents on hammering.

Looks like you have a good idea now on what all needs done , I like the idea on the bronze thrust washers .. Thumbs up !! ENJOYED ..

Really Like The New Shaper , But It Nice To See You Standing At The Victor...GREAT VID !!!!!

Bamboo makes a nice privacy fence, grows crazy fast and the bamboo is actually useful for a number of tasks.

Keith Fenner would be the one to straighten that lead screw out. He has tons of video doing that process!

Very enjoyable video. Thanks Adam.

Gotta say quite nice work you did with the Acme Thread, we in Germany call those "Trapezgewinde" and for me personally it's always a nightmare to make those on my CNC Lathe in my day job these litte buggers always tend to not fit as i want... sometimes the hand on approach on a manual lathe is the best option! Keep up the good work, looking forward to see the down feed on the shaper in action if and when you get it going! Greetings from Germany!

Looks like a complicated project but it would be interesting to see the process machining a new shaft and nut. Could make the shaft longer to allow room for thrust bearings where it goes through the casting.

Three cheers for Tim.

Tim is the man!

Thanks Adam for a great video awesome to watch

got a Southbend 9c dated late 1930's and still works amazing

Glad you got the roof fixed

When my roof needed replacement I put metal roofing on myself, right over the existing shingles, (factory recommended) ... less than half the cost of getting guys to install shingles.

Glad to see you got your spare parts. One can never have enough spare parts for NLA equipment. You'll have a nice tight machine when you get finished. Enjoyed the video !

Good on the new roof. We had one done too, big job but must have a solid roof. Good lesson on the thread pitch, thanks Adam.

Ice damning material was your first layer and the second layer is your wear layer... No "tar", this product uses glue / adhesive. Consider adding a u.v. protective layer, it will be brushed on and around 3 to 500.00 for two coats, do that every 3 years and you will extend the life amazingly so. Great for resale as the coating becomes the wear layer.

Another great video, thanks for sharing.!.!.!.

Adam your an artist your so clever and a dream to watch

That roof system is pretty cool. It seems like a really good idea in heavy storm areas like Florida. Shouldn't blow off in the wind like shingles or tin. Good find Abom!

Spare parts-COOOOL!! That cam did it! I think your owe Tim a steak dinner and like five cases of his favorite beer. LOL

Definitely make the new key from brass as well. That is a simple and cheap repair/wear point, otherwise it'd be a real pita if the gear/nut busted instead, or worse having the entire drive-train explode because that little key didn't give when the bad stuff hits the fan. EDIT: Also, I suggest you finish working on a set of technical drawings for both the borrowed and the proper cam-plate thingy. So people with either generation shaper can have a cam-plate machined.

This one was really interesting to me, probably because all of my old machines have backlash! Thanks for sharing.

As always nice job man. You do like perfection. The only bad thing is that I have to wait to see how it went lol.

Adam, Wonderful video. It IS quite amazing the how and WHY hammers are used to beat on machines. Never could figure that one out. Eric

HI Adam , Nice job also I noticed you're looking happier lately

Thanks for showing the Starrett 671. Amazing is that my Google search would bring me here, since it was not mentioned in title or description. Maybe it indexed the auto-generated subtitles! I saw it on Amazon without an indicator and called Universal Attachment 0-1/8" and just couldn't visualize what it did.

hahaha i'm so glad you mentioned that car that was way too loud

Modified Bitumen is a good material for low-slope (under 4/12 slope), GAF is a good supplier, just don't neglect your maintenance. You should inspect it in 5 years and check the mastic and seals. For a low pitch roof, you certainly can do that yourself if you feel comfortable on the top of the house, otherwise just call the roofer in 4.5 years to do a final inspection. I inspect roofs nearly every day; almost nobody maintains their roof.

GREAT WORK !

Great video. Following this project with interest. Keep 'em coming.

I've been waiting for this thanks

Looks like you need to get K.Fen on the batphone for that bent screw.

Looking forward to the next video!

Great video. Thanks Adam

And here I was hoping for spray welding onto that leadscrew to tighten up that backlash!

You lucked out big time on the shaper parts Son.

Viewer Tim deserves a few cases of beer for those parts, especially since that all-important AWOL cam plate for the auto-downfeed is AWOL no longer! ^^ Superb lesson on chasing an odd-pitch, and with that view showing everything going on at once so we can see the thread dial. Glad also to see you showing fitting the tool in the good threads first to set your dials on your zeros so you know where to come back to on the handles between passes, BEFORE you do anything! ^^ Odd that there was no brass washer or anything in that upper thrust surface of the tool slide below the handle. What about waved, springy brass shim like a few have tossed out as an idea so you have a preload present to take up all the backlash in the entire assembly?

I have a "rubber" roof on my flat double carport and can't say enough good about them. The material contracts in cold and expands in warm as needed and no leaks in 15 years. The original hot tar and gravel roofs would leak and need replacement every three years or so. Most likely the composite material is even better now.

Hey Adam, I feel ya son. We just spent more than $17,000 putting a new roof on the house. There goes my retirement once again, disappears into the distance. Now I've got to come up with 2 grand for rain gutters and down spouts.

As usual another excellent video. Thanks for taking the pains to teach everyone. Very much appreciated.

Great video

@12:45 the key might fall out when the shaft is pulled out of the gear. as its only held in place by the pins and the keyway on the shaft. be sure to put a paint mark on that gear matching the keyway location into it when you go to assemble it.. it will make screwing the slide back on and getting it aligned keyway and the keystock. or the screw will get banged up on the end again. @18:04 where you are putting the nut on and back off over the damaged areas. did that chew open the clearances in the nut allowing more play? @32:25 the oil groove.. i might look at perhaps hand grinding that oil groove just a little deeper so you can put a piece of felt wick in there that might keep the grime out the oil groove and stop it from scaring up the faces. i wonder about some kind of counter bore in the piece locked to the shaft section at 34:52 to place a convex or belville spring washer in there . keeping the threaded shaft up tight against the inner thrust face. since it will be driving the tool holder downward. getting the thrust spring loaded down under .01 . all of these are just thoughts from observations. youtube is great to find parts you really need.. wayne..

Great episode. Nice to see the Victor back in action. PS: Nice new outro! ;)

Good video Adam . Looks like you found the problem.

The perils of being a homeowner...:-)

New roof... wow!

Nice work as usual

You could put a regular tip or a fine tip on your on your indicator and set your lathe to your 5 pitch and engage your half nut and make your indicator land on the crest of your threads and run it down the thread to get a more accurate read out on your run out

Very Nice. Would love to see a new acme thread nut.

Does anyone else keep seeing Abom's "Milling on the Kearns Horizontal Boring Mill" video coming up repeatedly in the Up Next suggestions? It's been a week or 2 now and that same video shows up among the others in almost every other machining related video I've watched. Just curious...