As a former police fleet mechanic, to the issues you have listed, I would add rear axle wheel bearings wearing into the axle shafts and broken exhaust manifold studs. Even with these problems, these are incredibly tough and reliable vehicles.

The paint peel has to do with the water based paint used at the factory. It wasn't just fleet cars, any of the 'Performance White' or 'Vibrant White' cars (code WT) could suffer this fate. Similar with metallic gray (silver) paint. It has to do with adhesion on the primer. On the blend door actuator - pulling back the dash isn't very difficult and makes the whole job easier than simply removing the airbag alone. The blend door actuators on the manual and automatic systems are located in the same place, but they are different so make sure you get the right one for your system! Re: the ABS module - they are interchangeable from 2003 through 2008, but 2009 and later will throw an ABS light on your dash if the VIN in the module does not match the VIN in the PCM. On the intake manifold, ONLY use the Ford intake unless you want to do it again! Remember - quality doesn't cost, it pays. The Dorman intake at Autozone/O'Reilly etc is only marginally cheaper than the Ford intake online but you're talking 2 years replacement (Dorman) vs. 8-10 years (Ford). The Ford part numbers are 3W7Z-9424-AE (2001-2005) and 9W7Z-9424-A (2006+). The only difference between the two is a temp sensor port on the 3W part that isn't on the 9W part (you can get a 3/8 NPT plug and use the 3W part on all of them 2001+). The 'updated' Dorman part is updated from the NPI part and on a PI engine (2001+), will cause a net HP/torque LOSS of around 10 and 10 over the Ford part. The silicone O-ring 'gaskets' on the Dorman part are known to fail. Re: the 'rocket plugs'. This was a problem on 2004 on down engines. This is because they had only half threads on them (the threaded portion was similar to what you would find on an iron head and was only half the length of the spark plugs 'reach'. For the 2005 model year, heads were revised and have full reach threads. Any rocket plugs that occur on these revised heads are 100% due to negligence in spark plug installation - follow Ford's recommendation of 20 lb ft torque here! Re: transmission failure. Yeah, this one isn't what it seems on the surface. Of course the transmission is going to retire from living after 150,000 miles of sending it! These things are ABUSED in service, 150k out of such a trans doesn't mean it's junk; it means it's pretty solid. A TH350 transmission in a 1972 Impala, for example (a civilian car, not a police model) was considered GREAT when it would last 75k miles. Keep this in mind before you throw shade at the 4R7xx transmissions!

I have a 2010 Merc. w/268 k miles. She runs great. I do have the water in headlights, and the diverter for heat is stuck halfway between defrost and heat which is doable. I recently had a skip in the engine very noticeable. The intake manifold leaked coolant over a sparkplug. Lucky parts are available and I have a handy mechanic. Great vid!

If you put a Dorman intake on your Crown Vic you can expect to replace it within two years. It's a known quality control issue. The part that fails on the intake isn't the upper plastic but rather the plastic and gasket under the thermostat housing. Dorman's is made of plastic too and their gaskets are poorly made. An alternative is the aluminium intake: 1999-2004 Ford Mustang 4.6L Professional Products Intake Manifold 2V GT Typhoon.

Great video. Pulling the dash out isn't too bad. It's just screws, nuts & bolts, and electrical connectors. I replaced my blend door actuator, in my garage, by myself. Saved a bundle!

Ok so admittedly I fastforwarded through bits of this. But by my reckoning you failed to mention one of the most common failure points on these cars and that is the control arm bushings. Literally EVERY single panther platform car that I have ever personally popped the hood on, had cracked and dry rotted upper control arm bushings. People talk crap about Ford ball joints and NEVER draw the logical conclusion that if you drive around with failed control arm bushings, then that ball joint is taking all of the stress single handedly. If you buy one of these cars, be prepared to replace the uppers immediately and the lowers eventually. The 2nd most common failure point that you failed to mention is the power steering pumps. They cannot handle continuous high RPM thrashing and will for sure begin leaking and eventually will go bad. The water pump bearings are notoriously bad. Brake calipers love to start sticking. Timing chains and guides love to get slack and allow the chain to start slapping around. The key to buying a panther car of any year model and style is to find one with really low mileage that has been well maintained. Just remember that cheap hot rodding isn't so cheap!

I've had a 1984 Crown Vic and 2004 Grand Marquis that I inherited from my grandfather a couple of years ago. No problems with the Granny Marquis so far except for the driver window being off track, but the CrownVic had the problem where is would just stop running sometimes, when it was hot mainly. I think it was something with the ignition module but it's been a while since I've had that.

An issue I had with my 2001 CVP71 that I felt odd about was when the brake light switch didn't work, I couldn't put the car into gear. The gear selector wouldn't come out of park even when the car was started and running. So if this happens to you, check the connections to the brake light switch and the brake light switch itself to make sure it's operating.. One sign is to see if you have brake lights if it doesn't go into gear. ..

Wait until your tire passes you on the freeway because these's no grease fittings anywhere on the front end or you slam into a tree because the intermediate steering shaft locks up from rust.

I think the "transmission failure" thing is a myth rather than reality. Folks having transmission problems aren't doing fluid and filter changes or are revving up the engine and then throwing it in drive or similar abusive things. Otherwise they run as good or better than any other transmission

I've owned about 6 P71'S, 2 Marquis & found out some good info from you today namely the heater control problems and who makes the aluminum intake manifold.. Good video

dont break things to get the blend door actuator out. The dash comes out so easy in like 1 hour

On the sparkplug repair, after we drilled and tapped we put a small piece of tube on a shop vac and were able to vacuum everything out of the cylinder. Thanks for the video, super helpful.

I live near Phoenix. My headlights do not have condensation in them, but they were hazed. I polished them out with some stuff from Autozone. Worked pretty good. It's only white Crown Vics, and pretty much ALL white American cars that have peeling paint . The thing you are talking about with the climate control system that fails is the blend door actuator. It mixes warm air from the heater core with cool air from the A/C evaporator to control the temperature. It's a little plastic box, with a little electric motor and plastic gears in it. The gears strip real easy. It is a real pain to get to. You have to remove the trim piece that goes across the dash, the glove box, the passenger air bag, and behind the air bag is a piece of duct work that goes to the far right dash vent. I took a three foot piece of rebar, ground the end into a chisel, then stuck it back under the dash through the air bag opening, and using a hammer, broke the thing up into pieces and it fell out. I didn't bother replacing it, here in Phoenix we don't need heat. I jammed a small piece of wood under the little arm attached to the blend door to hold it in the full A/C position I have a civilian model, with the automatic climate control. I was able to repair mine by replacing the silicone O rings. There is a video on KZfaq that even tells you where to get the right O rings. It's not as hard to repair as it first seems. My repair has lasted several years. But because that blend door actuator back behind the dash failed, I no longer have defrost. A/C only. So far my ABS module and manifold have not failed. If the ABS module fails, I'll probably just leave it alone. My spark plugs are still ok. I have an '06 model, with 321,000 miles on it, the transmission still works fine. The Ford AOD transmission is actually quite reliable, but you need to maintain them way more often than what Ford says. Dorman makes a transmission pan with a drain plug in it. I drain the pan (about 5 quarts) and replace it every 9,000 miles, and drop the pan (after draining it) and replace the fluid and filter every 27,000 miles. It's so easy with that drain plug. Another thing that failed on mine was the rear air suspension. The air bags rotted and started leaking, letting the rear end sag almost all the way to the ground. They are super expensive to replace, but there is a cheap way to fix that problem. A few companies sell coil springs to replace the air bags with for under $200. That's what I did, and it works just fine.

Beautiful analysis. You are our man my friend. Thank you for the great video.

The most common reason for blow by on a 4.6 l is tuning the car up by removing the spark plugs without first cleaning out each spark plug well with compressed air

Thank you for such an informative video. My brother owned 2 CVPI's and I was sad when he sold them.

The ones with white paint peel I haven't seen too many other colors have that issue.

Ive owned a vic for 2 years. 147,000 miles on it now. This video is accurate because so far Ive run into ABS issues, transmission failed, hvac leak, intake manifold leak (actually leaked down into the spark plug holes), replaced headlight assemblies and beyond all that ive had the entire suspension and rear end replaced.

Ford has an up dated part number for the intake manifold. They had a class action law suit regarding that crossover leak issue. The Dorman part is sub standard and not worth the box it comes in .

Like mine, the 2010-2011 CV Police interceptors have P7B instead of P71, in case anyone ever needed to know that.

Just found your channel. Considering getting a p71 this helped a lot! Now I know what to look for thanks!!

Thank you for pointing all of that out to us!

Un-employed for the last 7 years, traded 4 months of food stamps for one of those 3 years ago. filthy porta john on wheels it was, 1994 4.6L Thunderbird... got a new transmission at 175'000 miles. over heats on the interstate with the AC on, needs an engine oil cooler.

Let's not forget the water leak on the right side cowl. Where the hvac intake is.

We all, still owners of a panther platform-made cars, in the form of Crown Vics, Grand Marquis and Town Cars; should feel fortunate to deal with potential few challenges attributable more to time rather than the many challenges, when it comes to those unibody SUVs. It is sad to learn that Ford ended repeating the auto inflicted damage, that GM did back in the 80s, not keeping specialized in what even the japanese industry tried but never achieved. Now that Ford may be in the corner of a Chapter 11, I wish they may finally get rid of the SUV's me-too movement.

I used to have a ‘99 P71 (former detective version that was metallic gray with faux-chrome hubcaps) that I put 200k miles on before I traded it in for a Ranger. Some of the problems I had to deal with are similar to yours with the exception of the paint, which stayed perfect. It still had a lot of life left in it when I got rid of it at 276k miles, but the head gasket was failing and I was not as mechanically inclined as I am now.

Hi Here's a little insight into the paint thing. For 30 years I was an ASE and Ford certified tech at the dealer so I've seen much of this stuff. If you notice almost without exception it was the white cars that the paint falls off. First also make note that in those years not only did Ford have this problem but did all domestic brands likewise. The manufacturers were all using a water based primer and for whatever reason the white paint did not adhere to it. As for the EATC control head it's pretty easy to fix by replacing the o-rings. The spark plug coming out thing was primarily on the #3 cylinder because at the engine assembly plant the machine that installed the spark plugs the #3 spark plug installer was not set correctly, too loose, and they would eventually work themselves out and damaging the threads in the process. I have both an 04 CV and an 03 Marauder and both have only 90K and the transmissions work great.

You should also talk about instrumentation failure

I have a beautiful 2006 Presidential Town Car, currently at 141k miles. I've changed the engine oil every 3k miles up to 100k miles, then every 2,500 miles after that. No transmission problems, 1st trans service at 75k miles, then every 25k miles after that. I serviced the differential at just over 100k miles, and will do that again at 150k miles and every 50k miles after that. I wonder if the trans problems some people have might be related to people who never service their transmission - although I did see other comments that the factory has a transmission cooler thermostat that can fail and cause a trans fluid over temperature problem leading to early trans failure. Mine has the same headlamp condensation issue, I may just heat them up, disassemble them, and place a new butyl seal between the lens and the housing. I did have an intake leaking coolant. I chose the Dorman for price and that Auto Zone offers a lifetime warranty on this part, and they always have them in stock. Supposedly the Dorman intake loses a couple of horsepower over the Ford intake, but I'm not racing so I don't care. For several years my car was infrequently used, and the master cylinder developed a slow leak - it was a cheap and easy fix to replace the master cylinder. My alternator went out at 110k, again I chose an Auto Zone new replacement with a lifetime warranty. I did get a noisy idler pulley, so I replaced it with the Continental brand kit that had a high quality serpentine belt, and both the idler pulley and the tensioner pully assembly. Both my upper front control arms have torn the ball joint boots, but the bushings and ball joints are still tight with no play - I'll replace the control arm assemblies some time this summer. I did add a cabin air filter - the one part Ford forgot, and I'll have to clean the evaporator core because it got a lot of dirt before I installed the cabin air filter. No other issues. Its been one of the most reliable cars I have ever owned, and I've owned more than 20 cars over my 47 years of driving.

I love my CVPI. It’s a great daily and it’s my first car so it’s a great car and a good first project car. Btw the 2010 and 2011 Vic’s will have P7B o stead of P71

I've had my 2008 P71 since 2012, and you were right on target! They ONLY thing I haven't seen yet is the spark plug issue - everything else I have seen and gone through. I put a remanufactured tranny in back in 2020. I had the ABS module go out TWICE, first on the original and second on a reman. Both headlights were replaced with OEM units, at around $50 a piece I thought it was worth it. I also had the rear axles done last year, they both went well over 200,000 miles. Anyway, great vid!

My transmission blew up at 160k miles (2010 Vic) but I took that as a sign to manual swap it. Sooooo… silver linings?

I hear about the transmission failures also but I'm like you I've never had that issue and I've owned 4 CV. My last CV was an 08. I bought it with 160k and got it up to 245k before I sold it. Now my current 08 CV is at 155k. I bought it with 145k. The thing I have done with all my CV is dropped the pan and add Lucas. I'm not saying Lucas is the reason I've never had a transmission failure I'm just stating that's what I've done to all of my Crown Vics.

You don’t need the abs brakes. It will still work regular brakes. Ford change the intakes to aluminum for the 2002 model year.

The Doreman intakes are smaller and reduce amount of air going to the combustion chambers. I ordered the ford racing intake because it matches the size of the factory intake.

Nice vid, very informative! About to get one to daily! 2000 civilian model with 199,000 miles. It'll need some TLC but looking forward to the adventure!

Performance white is also know as peelformance white for the panther community

Amazon has new headlights with bulbs for less than 50.00

Great video!

I have owned 5 Panther Platform cars with the 4.6 and have replaced the intake on every single one, I really isn't all that hard with a 24 pack of beer and 6 hours of free time.

Any Panther platform suffers from the transmission problems. We just replaced the 4R70W in our 05 Grand Marquis but it had 210k miles on it when it failed where it wouldnt move forward but would in reverse. Got a rebuilt from OReilly that has a 3 yr warranty that is tied to the vehicle by VIN and is transferrable if you sell the car. $2k for the transmission and $600 for a local shop to do the remove and replace the transmission and put the needed Mercon V fluid in. I do have to replace the blend door actuator this spring but it's not really that bad and last year I repaired the AETC auto temp control unit with new o-rings.

I'm on my third panther and I've never had a spark plug eject

I fixed my headlights the same way I found Volvo does. From factory the lights have weep holes for drainage. Found on my 86 760 wagon when installed headlight assembly up side down ( lboth side fit either side l had weep holes up and. Water filled lamp.

The Trans typically fails when it overheats because there is a thermostat in it that fails and remains closed causing it to not circulate. Then People have a slipping Trans because of the hot fluid and keep driving it to get home instead of having it towed immediately. Which then they replace the cooler with a free flow unit like a Hayden 403 for like $35. Otherwise the Trans are pretty stout. You can get a Scan Gauge to watch the temp too from the OBD II

I like what you did on your video and there are a couple more for your next one. The rear axel bearings were actually a recall and a very common failure. Then, there is the blower motor and the drivers window tracking. I've got 190K on my 2003 Grand Marquis and mine has very few issues and in fact looks like it's 3-5 years old.

I be on the look out for these 👀

Good video, clear talk. I imported in France a chief personal Crown vic with civilian interior and 240 idle hours and got none of these issues, finger crossed. But got another stupid problem as soon as it rains a lot, the wiper motor shuts off. Bad water drain, I cleaned it twice because leaves and dirt acumulate here. All these issues listed make me wonder : what is a reliable car? I had a volvo 240, simple and strong engine, not powerful tho, I guess it was the definition of reliable. Sorry for bad english.

I successfully rebuilt my own EATC (temp control) module and replaced all 4 of the #006 o-rings from a kit from Harbor Freight which contained 22 of that size.

Outer rear end bearings, intake manifold, alternator, power to dashboard, horn. Rust on fenders. A Beast. So far.... p.s. the "fog lights" are fixed by pulling them out, pulling them apart and re-gluing them solid. Or so I'm told (it's on the list...)...

I have got a 2004 Crown Victoria LX. The issues I have had, is in the Headlight control box. The headlight suddenly disappear. There are 4 mini relays on controlboard that can burn. Idid soldered and replaced all 4 relay's with some better Omrons. Now it works fine for a long time. The next was accumulator/ dryfilter for the AC. There is a Plastic ''bottle'' rapped around this unit and this cause some water storage in the bottom, and cause rusting problem with hole and leakage in the bottom. Someone drill a drainhole in this plastic container for solveing this problem. And then the servo steering control valve. Mine did get leakage, which causes uneven steering. My friend has the same car, and has had no issues. Im the unfortunate gu.y But all these parts are sheap and very easy to repair. We live in Norway and love these cars,

Ford tech here, 4R75 is incredibly stout and reliable and robust. P71 4r75s fail because idle hours weaken the pump

Always check for broken front springs on the P71,this will give a bumpy ABS on the pedal because the car will tend to nose dive and this overwhelms the ABS valve body and will engage,usually about a 3” section brakes off the very top of the spring and is buried,you can’t see it at first, but if changing the VB does not work and it still trips it’s 2 broken springs.

I have a 2001 Town Car, already had to fix the intake manifold. I have moisture in one of the headlights. Is there a gasket problem causing this moisture infiltration? I don't really like having moisture around part of the electrical system because it might cause a short across a light socket, or rust the socket and cause a bad connection. I also replaced the entire front suspension with a $300 kit (metal parts with bushings already installed) from Amazon because I could not even align it before.

Yup, trans went out on my 06. I had to replace rack and pinion and window master control switches on my current 04 and previous 06

The 3 dollar bushing 😢

Can the electrical connector on the power steering pump be unplugged to prevent the steering from getting stiffer as speed increases?

I've had most of these problems on my '07 P71. I've had my P71 for 13 years. I fived everything except the ABS. Keep an eye on the oil cooler, the O-rings can go bad on the older type.

On the Lincoln Town Car ('07), there are 5 HVAC actuators. 2 are easy, 1 is middling, and 2 require dash removal and by removal, I mean moving the dash about 15 inches, not REMOVAL. Pro tip: Replace all 5 and with Rock Auto Motorcrafts, not 3rd party. And don't grab any from Pick 'n Pull. Just buying someone else's potential problems. Hope you never have to do the fuel pump replacement. Yikes! Gotta pull the tank AND replace with special breakaway bolts. You forgot the potential swimming pool in the passenger backseat footwell.

Great video. I've had these same issues with my 2010 Mercury Grand Marquis with 45k miles. Do you know the location of the Body Control Module (BCM)? That is another common issue with these. Mine threw an door ajar, abs, traction light, TPS error at the same time and the door locks and window switches quit working. I'm not sure where the BCM is. Thanks.

I just bought a 2000 P71 with CAP with 88k miles. It drives & shifts good. My problems are the window switchs & the air conditioner doesn't work. I'm excited to get into these cars.

10:34 The "ejecting spark plug" issue isn't common to every Ford 4.6. There are a few similar spark plug issues among several Ford modular engine family variants that are common enough that it's gained a reputation. Early cylinder heads from '91-96 didn't have issues, and late model heads from about 2008/9 onwards don't seem to cause trouble. In the middle years, 2 valve and 4 valve aluminum heads had only 3 or 4 threads worth of engagement on the spark plug threads, and could fail if improperly torqued or not maintained and allowed to corrode. As long as plugs are changed at the recommended interval, and installed with anti-seize and proper torque, they will stay put. 3 valve cylinder heads from 2004-07 had more threads, but the plugs themselves (2-piece) could break apart during maintenance and leave a stump of an insulator in the hole, or drop pieces into the cylinder. Redesigned one piece or aftermarket plugs will solve that issue.

Those are legit points. I believe ford fixed the spark plug issue in the late model vehicles. As for the trans, (don’t forget the diff) change the fluid often, how often? That’s up to the individual.

I miss the days of the OLD C-4 and C-6 transmissions... And engines that you didn't need an MIT Degree to tune properly. These Vics and Grand Marquis are decent cars... But still too expensive to repair properly for me. Anything older than about 1985 is best in my opinion... You do it once and it's DONE for 100,000 miles. The "old" ones might not get quite as much fuel mileage as the newer ones, but there a damn sight more reliable.

1999 Grand Marquis - fuel filter under the gas tank should be checked & changed 50,000 - 100,000 miles -

Mine is an '05 P71 former Police Chief car. I'm almost at 170k. Mine had the transmission replaced, gotta 3 year warranty. Popped two lighting control modules in to keep my headlights/rear lights working. No issues with the heater blend door but do have issues going to floor vents... Gonna check that vacuum on the knob, thx. But my biggest issue is destroyed window regulators. Bought this car just before the pandemic and I've already swapped those regulators out 5 times total. So every window once and the driver's window twice. Overall, absolutely love the car. Just installed all 8 ignition coils & plugs, made a huge difference. Never shot one out or cracked the intake manifold (yet) but I have plans to continue upgrading as things break. Gonna fix some paint and track down that ABS module problem (exactly as you described) but I'm curious about a supposed special tool required when swapping that ABS module? Something about holding the brake line pressure while doing that???

the intermediate steering shaft has a warrantee recall from Ford. If your steering feels stiff when turning, check with your dealer and get it changed for free

I have 2011 LX, replaced headlights, A/C mixer, rebuilt it myself and lasted about a year, then it went out again so sent it out to be re built. The clear coat on the passenger side of the doors is peeling... But it runs like a banshee 154,000 mi I put about 3000 a month on it

They began making crown vics with the updated manifold in 2003. I too had to replace my intake manifold due to the bullcrap leaking plastic. And i too have at least one spark plug chamber with cross-threaded issues that came before i owned the car. But other than that, the car takes care of me.

Guess it was a completely different animal, but I miss my 82 Crown Vic! Paint lasted fine, but the trunk did rust out (replaced it myself with sheet metal) That was a bulletproof beast, the 5.0 worked fine.

I own a 2002 crown vic with pnly 47,000 miles. Window tracking replacement and blower motor done. Also had to devalue the car by replacing air suspension with springs. Bags disintegrated. Wouldnt trade my crown vic for anything. Safest car i ever owned

I've had MANY cvpis and transmissions have always gone bad around 150k miles and water pumps go bad around the same. I've also had issues with water getting into the wiper module and making the wipers stop working or on one the module caught fire from arching

Those headlights were pretty cheap on Rockauto

The worst is that damn 4.6 in every Ford and the heater core placement... Had a Grand Marquis, Crown Vic and F150. Every damn one the heater core went up around 150k. Dash off to replace, every one... The truck i used k-seal, not doing another. Otherwise bullet proof. The Grand Marquis dropped a plug, sounded like a jackhammer on the half mile i had to drive it home clanking. Heli- coiled it and started smooth as butter, drove it another 40k. Great motor, terrible heater core placement, probably due to easy assembly on the line.

I replaced the AC compressor on my 2005 P71 with a new Murray Compressor. The coil was bad on the clutch assembly for the old AC Compressor so I decided to just change out the entire assembly. Don't let anyone kid you on this, it's a major job doing this change out lying on the ground with the corner of the car jacked up. Before I did any of this, I took it to a garage and had them remove all the refrigerant. The cost to have this job done at a garage is way over $1k. Remember to prime that new Compressor with the correct oil or you just flushed $400 down the drain. If I had to do this job for anyone else, I would charge a minimum of $400 plus the cost of the Compressor.

It was informative 👍

Just swapped trans in my 02. 185k on the clock. Its been having torque converter shutter for some time. Then 1-2 shift shutter. Pulled pan on trans. Bunch of clutch material. All good now. Got a 48k trans cheap.

Awesome video thank you sir Crown Vic’s are getting rare and rare by the day it’s harder to find parts now

Hi guys. Short question- is it fine to have it as daily driver? With US gas prices it is the same as I get in EU for diesel. So actually it is just 130 usd more per month for such big engine. But I need it to run not stay in the shop.

Vacuum line breaks at firewall, causing defrost only situation too. And rear wheel bearings.. And ford discontinued the intake..

Now if the civilian model gets stuck on defrost, is it also stuck on heat? Mine is doing both so do I have to fix the blend door and the ac controls?

218,350 miles and no trans fail...yet! I had a spark plug bail out on me once. I'm looking for better heads all the way around, just not sure what fits off any mustangs...

My 09 p71 is acting like it’s shutting off when I turn right and suggestions on what the problem is ?

They were awesome cars. Reliable, comfortable, lasted a long time and were, with a couple of mods quite decent. Easy to work on for the most. I wonder how many km were covered by all the Crown Vic taxis and police vehicles in America alone? Admittedly heavy on fuel but then again, every coin has two sides.

I have an 04 police interceptor that was a detectives untit. I had the ac fixed after I bought it because it would only blow hot, but now that it's fixed whenever you are driving when you give it gas. The air switches from vent or max across to defrost. If you let off the gas and idle down it switches back to vent.

Have a 2011 p71 that I've owned for about three years now. As long as I've owned it the abs and parking brake light are on. But some of the research I had done said you have to have the module programmed to your vehicle. Is that true? If so, I'll continue living without it and just deal with the light. Lol

I had a 2001 Police Interceptor several years ago. I loved that car but the check engine light stayed on and there was a gas smell that concerned me so I got rid of it. I am however, looking for another one!

Dorman intake manifolds and even Ford OEM and Ford Performance Improved intake manifolds are all plastic and will eventually fail again. The only failsafe intake is the Professional Products Typhoon intake manifold which is an all-aluminum and much deeper than all other options. This will not only bullet proof your engine, but it will help you gain high end horsepower. The only problem is they cost around $1,000 used and they require a few extra steps to install.

transmission failure is common in a lot pre 2010 Ford vehicles

How do I get the wrench light off my 2011 crown Victoria police interceptor??

I took the dash out to replace what is called the bend door actuator . It was done properly. It is just a cheap plastic part. No wonder it breaks.

The ac/and heat isn't working on this p71 I bought. When I turn the selector to anything other than off I hear a little hiss and a clicking sound. And then I don't really hear anything. And I don't feel any air hot or cold coming out. And when I switch it back to off I hear the click sound once more. I'm going to take it to a shop. But based on this do you think you know what the issue might be? Everyone says that if the hvac system isn't working be prepared to spend at least $1,000 to fix it and I'm not exactly looking forward to that. I'm also not very mechanically inclined and do not feel like taking the dashboard apart

-The paint issues are mostly on the white cars, they used a different primer that was absolute crap. -The intake that's made by Dorman is a Non-PI intake, You loose power by using it and the build quality is crap. Spend the extra and get the Ford PI unit. (PI= Performance improved) -The spark plug issue needs to be fixed with a Cal-Van Insert, If it's properly done, the spark plug will sit at the correct height. The problem is that people don't torque them properly. 18-20 ft.lbs -Transmissions usually fail because guys flush the trans, I know because I did it and ended up doing a manual swap because it started slipping. Just drain and refill it if the ATF is dark (burned)

I own an 04 grand marquis and easily the best car ive ever owned, all ive done is replaced the intake manifold, on its 2nd battery, and did the oring fix on the climate control. The spark plugs shouldnt be an issue if you replace them every 50k miles or 5 years, and tq them to 20ft lbs instead of the factory recommended 13-14lbs, i have 165k on mine and never had a spark plug issue😊

I have a problem with my 2011 police interceptor. When i turn the heat on (doesnt matter which vent setting) there is an intermittent burning smell. The car isnt leaking any oil or coolant and the smell doesnt happen if i switch from hot air to cool air. Also, the area inbetween the fan setting knob and the temp setting knob gets very hot to the touch. The heat gets very hot and the ac gets cold. Does anyone know what the problem might be? Im thinking it might be the heater core going bad but I want to get a sense of direction before i start taking the dash apart

My Panther is a 2007 Michigan Police retired - 207,000 going strong!!! Love her. AIR CONDITIONER CANISTER SUCKS ON THE 3rd

Spark plugs eject because Ford decided they could save a tenth of a cent by designing OEM spark plugs that were not threaded for their full length. Over time of heating/cooling on the engine block, one of the plugs will work loose and shoot out, stripping the few threads in the aluminum head. You will need to find an expert mechanic who can install a heli-coil and capture all the aluminum head shavings that fall down onto the piston before replacing the blown out plug.

The air conditioning evaporator coil also known to fail on some years, my 03 has failed and I’ve known others also.

And if you're in a pinch, you're forced to get a Dorman intake manifold since Ford discontinued it's actual PI Intake and are really hard to get. You'll suffer up to 10-20hp loss.

I love my 08 CVPI only thing I had to fix at 103.000 miles needed a new transmission