www.tindie.com/products/voltlog/voltlink-cp2102n-usb-serial-adapter-programmer/ Or if you are US based and want it quicker wantmoore.tech/products/voltlink

@@digiblurDIY Thanks! do you have a video on it? I like the shelly adapter, but im curious how that board is better than my cheapo FTDI adapter. Keep up the great work!

Not a full blown one kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oJmoqdCB1NOafZc.html it is my go to board now though. USB-C and no issues powering up stubborn hungry devices like many other adapters struggle with.

Yup. And I did confirm it is indeed 10A rating on the relay.

Ahh... I've seen those fail in some dimmer refurbs before, but that must have been fuses as they had an amperage label on top of them. Once we replaced them the unit started working again. Thanks for the clarification on the no fuse thing.

No listing on it that I saw.

UPDATE: I pulled the relay off and indeed it is 10A on the back side. I'll update the website with the pics.

If only we had this luxury we wouldn't need breakers at all ;)

@@digiblurDIY You would be terrified if you opened some UL listed devices. The breaker is for the wiring not the load. I don't recommend throwing caution to the wind, but the chance of the fire jumping out of both the enclosure, and the wall box is low. It's your house, your decision of course. :)

yeah not going to be me. I mean there is a reason why you don't see 5 or 10 amp rated switches and sockets in homes.

@@digiblurDIY It's within code to derate lighting circuits. You'll find plenty of dimmers rated less than 15a. Outlets and lighting circuits are different animals. You can reliably calculate the max load a lighting circuit will see because the fixture socket physically limits the max load possible, and is relatively constant. Of course a wall outlet is different because you can plug a single 20 amp device in and max the entire circuit out. For a lighting circuit you know what's past each switch and calculate the typical load. A 10a switching device on a lighting circuit is 100% safe for most installations.

Came here to say this... Don't put this on a circuit with downstream plugs, or other high, or non (primarily) resistive loads and you'll be fine , and safe. It's a luminary switch controller and used as such it'll be good.

Voltlog... I put it in the description for easy finding ;)

I don't think you can wire it like that according to the docs. sonoff.tech/product/diy-smart-switches/minir4/

I haven't been able to find 10a breakers easily in the US. Sticking with the Shelly relays with 15 or 16 amp ratings

Yep. That's why we see 15-20 amp switches at the store and not 5 and 10 amp ones. Probably overkill for many lighting circuits today but everyone would need to change at the same time and makes it difficult.

@@digiblurDIY I suppose my point is that the device and the circuit breaker are not really related in they way you portrayed it in the video. There is nothing wrong with it being 10 amps rated as long as what you control with it is not going to draw more than 10 amps through any part of that circuit. If you look at your phone charger that may have a rating of 0.5 amps (primary) and a few amps (secondary) but you wouldn't necessarily worry about that when plugging it into the wall. This is just one step more complex where you have to consider the type of load that you attached to the device insuring the load is within the device rating. Especially with any inductive load like small machines where start up current can be quite high when compared to their current rating shown on the rating plate. Anyway I think it's important to understand the circuit breaker is there to maintain the safety of the fixed wiring of the installation. Good video, I look forward to watching more of your content

Look at some electrical code requirements on load switching. It is the reason we see 15 amp and 20 amp switches in homes switching 1 amp or less lights. Otherwise we would have simple little 5 amp or less switches in the home everywhere.

@@digiblurDIY I'm an electrician. The fixed electrical wiring has to be at the same rating as the circuit breaker. The circuit breaker is part of the fixed wiring in the house

If the switch was to be used as a fixed part of the wiring in the house then the best course would be to put it on its own circuit breaker but if it's an appliance then I wouldn't worry about it.

It's a smart switch that is designed to go behind the regular wall switch.

I'd stick to the wiring diagrams the device comes with.

Used by DC as in by changing the wire terminal position and/or jumper without hardware mods.

Probably the Venstar still but the supply chain issues hit them hard and the prices reflect that. Fully local API. Pretty slick. Ecobee with the homekit integration is another that isn't half bad.

@@digiblurDIY well after many videos on YT found out I can't install a smart thermostat apparently a "C" wire which is the ground side of the transformer in the furnace housing, is required.

@@MaxGoddur some have adapter kits and some have internal batteries and sip off the other lines.

Did you wire like this? itead.cc/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/MINIR4-1000pxITEAD_13.jpg

They are the weakest link in my setup. No way am I running 200 amp on smaller circuits.

Esp32 would probably require serial flash anyways with these different flash partitions sizes.

Especially if that's the one making the short!

Shelly knew what they were doing with that 16A rating for sure. I have seen Evvvr's relay that is load fused but only 3A and it popped during testing on me. 10A would be fine with a load fuse on board. Covers most things.

Uk light switch breaker is 6A not 32A. For wall socket it’s 32A breaker

Zigbee will just pair out the box as that is a local protocol.

@@digiblurDIY how do i get into the pairing mode? Or just config the mqtt settings in tasmota?

What firmware are you using now?

@@digiblurDIY esp32dev by Espressif Firmware: 2023.8.3. (created with ESPHome) I would like to add a sensor entity for S2. Is it possible? Currently, the S2 is connected to a live phase. S1 is empty (the 3rd wiring instruction in the manual). I was able to figure out how to be in ,,detach mode,, now i would like to create a sensor entity for S2 live phase, which is connected to a physical wall-mounted switch (to monitor the switch state, and turn other smart device on/off based on this). Many thanks in advance.

@Kisbalta I only recall one GPIO for the S1 and S2

@@Kisbalta I am looking for that too, I'd like to know if that's possible before flashing the esphome fw. have you found any way to do that?

@@LeonardoDestro all you need to do is to comment out or delete these lines on_state: - switch.toggle: relay

It must be on the side against the PCB. I pulled the pink bubble gum off and it is blank. I'll have to go off their suggested ratings that they came up with.

@@digiblurDIY It's not on the top against the capacitor? Hopefully somebody does a desolder of the relay otherwise. Btw, the 10A will certainly not be a problem with a short. If you have a real short current will spike high enough to trip a 16A breaker. Overloading is a bigger issue, aka, don't make it switch an output aka, unknown load. Other then that I would happily use it on a 16A circuit.

No, I followed the load traces from the terminal to the relay. Not something I'd feel comfortable using without a fuse inline in the wall. But at least that's an easy fix but then again I'd probably just rock the Shelly line with pin headers and 16A ratings.

It must be 10A, 20 or 30A relays are much bigger, those could not fit in case

@@clixium Hard to get a sense of size, but I have pretty small 16A relays in my collection.

Yep. That's my thought as well. Needs to be much cheaper for most people.

No UL here and most likely a 10amp rated relay.

@@digiblurDIY even if not UL the power isn’t going through the relay unless it’s switched so if you’re using LEDs it still won’t matter because LEDs are capacitively issolated from mains and can’t draw more even in a short because of the X cap. (That yellow thing in the video is an x cap (safety cap that fails open in the case of a short)

So why not use a 5A relay? And why do we use breakers?

@@digiblurDIY Did you get a pic of the relay specs or p/n?

@@digiblurDIY you could easily use a 5a relay with LEDs. When was the last time you had 600w on a single switch for lights? The NEC is written for incandescent bulbs. It doesn’t differentiate between resistive lighting and LEDs that are all DC devices at all. (Yes you can power any LED bulb with DC power. Typically 52ish VDC and up to 170 will work) We use breakers because they’re in the power path (and as the NEC makes clear, are there to protect the grid, not you. Only GFCI/AFCI protect you). And I’m sure you’re aware but if I draw 20 amps on a 15 amp breaker it takes minutes before it will pop. Only a dead short will trip it instantly. The relay is NOT in the parallel circuit power path. That is amperage draw from a socket hooked up to this thing in parallel doesn’t go through the relay at all. It goes through the bridged solder connections all of which can easily handle 20 amps, not just 15. And even in the case of a dead short down stream, the breaker will pop in under a second which those solder joints will easily handle without damage. And unless you’re putting 13 incandescent 100w bulbs on this relay or more than a 1 HP motor you’ll be just fine too.

Which component? It is probably just on the power supply side feeding the ESP though as usually the load isn't fused.

@@digiblurDIY it's the vertical black component next to the blue varistor behind the yellow component.

Gotcha. Yes, so just on the power supply itself and not the actual load. Thanks for the confirmation.

Does that mean we don’t need our own fuse

Shelly runs Tasmota/Esphome too.

@@digiblurDIY You mean it can or it does? Whatever it comes bundled with doesn't look/ feel like it.

It can. DIY friendly.

Yeah, 10A breakers it is ready to go! Although I will have to say I like Shelly's additional headroom, nothing wrong with overkill.

Ahh... I've seen those fail in some dimmer refurbs before, but that must have been fuses as they had an amperage label on top of them. Once we replaced them the unit started working again. Thanks for the clarification on the no fuse thing.

I've used those little in line glass fuses before on some devices that were too low of a rating for my liking.

I don't use them.

Keep the breaker the weakest link a bad explanation? KISS as this wasn't an electrical advice video and all in theory in the matrix video. I have learned it doesn't matter though from these comments. (except in my installs) 🤣

Just said that in one of my comments lol trying to see the relay ratings.

I wouldn't taste it😂

It might be some new hidden flavor.

All about them amps...

For the load it's the same power but for the switch and wiring it requires twice the cross sectional area to carry double the current. Which makes 110v more expensive to deliver the same amount of power.

It's called Joules law when you talk about electricity and heat. The heating power is I^2*R, so yeah you get less power with 120 V, but the current generates the heat that breaks things (if the voltage stays nominal) so devices are rated based on current.

Indeed! I try to run that 60% max rule myself on things as I don't trust them much.

Extremely small ✌️😎

Is that like the 5 second rule?

@@digiblurDIY Yes!

At least in the US market. I can't speak about others as I don't know their code.

Sure!