Haha. Hopefully that means KZfaq will erase someone else’s dislike 🤣🤣

Thanks for the kind words!!

I agree with all of this!!

Don't know about the X-S10 specifically, but the X-T3/4 have dual native ISOs at 640 and 2000, allowing for some great low-light. In HLG, you can get an even cleaner image at higher ISOs compared to FLog.

CMOS XTRANS IS THE BEST IN LOW LIGHT

Thanks for saying that

Thanks 😅

The reason why the iPhone did poorly is because the night mode was not turned on.... also the lens that he used for the cameras are perhaps vastly superior than the stock lens on the iPhone. You will see a more fair difference had he used a kit lens and turn on the iPhone's night mode to see the differences. Also do note the amount on money spent in buying a camera and prime lens is wayyyy more expensive than getting an iPhone. Lastly, do consider that the iPhone's feature is not only the camera, whereas the other 3 cameras that was shown, its main feature is photo and video.

Choose ppoff or pp2. I usually keep it simple and am choose PPOFF

I suggest dont use,even slog will not perform good. I tried just standard and way better but im no expert but atleast i tried to use in at night.i think the trick is when your out at night bring a small external light with you cuz thats what i learned when i try to use mine and using the zhiyun crane m3 gimbal,cuz the gimbal has its own light and i noticed it helps alot.just what i observe.the most important is dont shoot in lowlight if your camera is not sony a7s lol :)

Hi Tim.. In my opinion, the best profile for low-light shooting on the ZV-E10 is the HLG3, because Movie and Still cut details in blacks too much and have less dynamics, meaning a darker image if you don't want to burn out the lights. The Standard profile has too much noise and also worse dynamics than the HLG3, so it works on average in worse lighting conditions. Best regards and good shots. ;)

@@kamilq4836 Thanks! I just confirmed that with some testing. Do you use the Leeming LUT? It's great but I'm having an issue exposing correctly for it. It's recommended you "expose to the right" but the only way I know how to do this in a situation where the lighting changes (vlogging, etc.) is to set the exposure to +1 or 2 and this tends to blow out the hightlights regardless of picture profile. It's better than the standard profile but do you know of a better way to do this? I can also use zebras to set the exposure correctly for the brightest area I'm vlogging through, but that is also subject to being highly under or overexposed during the scene.

I will correct myself - I do see a similar dot of light on the outdoor shots from the other cameras, but not the iPhone. I’m now thinking it may be a reflection of one of the hanging lights and possibly that the ZV-E10 just shows it much brighter that the others.

yes - I had all tally lights turned off and the screens were set to lower brightness. I was far enough away from the camera that the screen light didn’t affect the light on my face (but it created a gorgeous catchlight in my eye)

used the external recorder 100-bit for all the shots insid. outside in the backyard it was the internal recording. The 10-bit has more colour info - but it doesn't do much really for lowlight.

I really like the x-s10. But the ibis is very wobbly with wide lenses. I think an X-T5 would be killer

If it’s bright enough the kits lens will be fine. Unless you need wider to capture the whole scene. Then look at the Sony 11mm 1.8, or the Viltrox 13mm 1.4. Both are around $500. You also could just get another Sigma 16 for $350. All those lenses are about as good as it gets for Sony apsc. You won’t see any better no matter the price. That’s one of the advantages of apsc!!

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis Thank you! I've been doing this as a hobby, and they approached me to shoot videos for them, I want to make sure I buy the right gear the first time out until I skill up! Your channel has been instrumental at helping me get on my feet regarding videography. Thank you sir. Best channel out there...no contest! keep it up!

Thank you!!

camera that does everything would be the Panasonic S5II or the A7IV. In terms of the lower priced stuff - the Z30 is a great choice. It's great for photos and video - the only issue is that it overheats after 25 mins or so in 4k.

that is an extremely high quality lens - it’s pretty expensive, but it sounds like you got a good deal. it should give you amazing photos and video

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis Thank you for letting me know, I love your videos.

Well, we're gonna test it out 😂😂

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis Great niche (Camera comparison). That's why I subscribed.

been quite impressed with the autofocus. It hasn’t really lost me in my talking head vlogging nonsense yet!!

for video - definitely the ZV-E10

you're thinking of photos. In video - there is just normal and HDR. If defaults to HDR in bright or dark conditions. So it was in HDR mode

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis Yes, of course, how did i miss that? My bad. Thanks for providing the clarity i needed.

the Fuji cameras are far better than iPhone for photos and videos for sure. iPhones are great, but you can get much more out of a large sensor mirrorless camera

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis I'm an A6100 shooter, which has the same sensor as the ZV-E10 and all the pre-FX30 Sony APSC bodies (the sensor is super old) while the XS-10 has the same X-Trans 4 sensor from the XT-4, so I was a bit surprised by your conclusion. I personally felt the XS-10 had better details compared to both the Nikon and the Sony, which were doing way too much noise reduction.

The Sony has the best autofocus for sure. It's perfect. The other two are good - but not perfect

yes - really impressed with the Nikon colours

ha. yes. I just said that in a vid I haven’t released. people say they don’t want to do the steps for catalyst browse. but shooting, setting up gimbals, nd filters, thumbnails, it all takes time. And stabilization is one of the most important things. And yes, all the e-stabilization benefits from the higher shutterspeed,

Totally agree with what you've said. I've used catalyst browse and find it much easier option than bringing a gimbal with me. It really doesn't take long to process the few clips I want to process. I believe gyro stabalisation is available in a premier pro plugin so hopefully fingers crossed itll be available in a final cut one soon

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis I could not agree more!

I like using the LeemingLUT with cine2 on the zv-e10 matched to the slog3 LeemingLUT on the A7iv

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis Great to know that. I used to use HLG3 on my old A7C, based on your videos. Now I’m gonna try Cine2 on the Little Dougie! Tks Mark!

me too.

just use Lightroom to process your raw photos. hit the auto button and choose a preset if you’d like

Nope that's not how the ColorChecker is used. You use it every single time the lighting is changed, when you have different camera brands so that you can match the colours by creating a custom profile. So it's not something you can "calibrate" once and forget about it. It's more commonly used for products/portraits/fashion photography when you need 100% dead accurate colours. Sometimes events too as the event owner probably hires a bunch of different photographers using different brands. Also, it only works with high CRI lights. If you're shooting in places with cheap normal lights with poor CRI ratings, the colours will still be quite off and annoying to calibrate. If you want nice RAW colours, usually the first thing is to play with the white balance and tint. If you get sick and tired of editing colours you can join the Fuji gang where we have beautiful film simulations and recipes (which are totally different from presets since it's how the images get debayered).

that’s my fault - I sat too close to my background lights and got my selfed blued.

used f-log with the LeemingLUT

ore videos coming. it wobbles with wide lenses vlogging, but other than that it’s really great.

Hold out for a bit more, or buy a used one first. With 2 new Fujifilm sensors and processor, the next gen will be far more amazing. See if you can pick up a used X-T3 or X-T4 even, I reckon some might be selling those to upgrade right now.

I won’t be comparing the iPhone to the cameras for photos. but I will be showing some Nikon photos Vs Fuji and zv-e10

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis how about video? Daylight Outdoor or something

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis please make video soon. Based on that I can purchase.

of course 🤣🤣

🍺🍺

can’t it be both 🤣🤣

review on the way. it wobbles in the corners with wide lenses but other than that - it’s pretty great

Sony is the king of the low light noise surprise! But I think color science wise the Fuji was better than all. Wished there was a Canon instead of iPhone to see the ultimate brands comparison! Lol

@@networm64 Sony and Fuji uses different ISO scales so it's tricky to do perfect comparisons. But Fuji is BSI and Sony isn't so for stills Fuji still performs better.

Yh i always think fuji colours look better

I don’t have access to an fx6 unfortunately

Best type of person!!

That would be exciting. I guess I’ll check KZfaq tomorrow 🤣

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis The rumour is it’s a updated ZV-1 but we will have to wait and see. I was hoping for a updated APS-C Camera. 🤞🏻

@@EvolutionGaz i heard rumours it was gonna be a lower price and spec model than zv1 on multiple videos which makes no sense at all im hoping for zv2 🙏

@@marcust123 I think it might be a ZV-1 II with a wider lens, as the rumour is it’s using a stack sensor, But only only time can tell.

@@EvolutionGaz hope so buddy we will see tomorow

the Nikon or the Sony. If you're hooting short clips - the Nikon. Long clip - the sony, because the Nikon doesn't run for more than 30mins in 4k without overheating.

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis Okay, I am doing mostly pictures and 1 minute long videos. Would you still say the Nikon?

the Sony 11, 15, and 10-20 are tiny. I used the Viltrox because I had a copy for all three cameras

the iphone is great - I can't live without it. But in these tests - it is just there to show people a baseline of what you get out of the phone vs the cameras. As you see, the title of the video this is just about the cameras. Night mode is only available in photo and this was a video test.

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis Oh yeah it didn't hit me that it was a video.... right right for some reason I was mixing up the video and photo features. Sorry about that... But I just want to add that since you mentioned that you wanted to show the baseline, perhaps it would be best to show the video quality if you were to use the kit lens and not a prime lens. That way we can see the difference in video quality based on the kit lens that the cameras come with. Also perhaps you can including a photo comparison.... would be nice to compare and see if its worth buying one of the cameras of perhaps the phone camera is good enough. Thanks.

always 🤣🤣

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis lil Dougie getting it done as usual.

🤣

I wish I sold cameras - I would take your money 🤣

😀

I used it. It reduces noise - but of course it can't help you get a higher ISO

it’s great. the stabilization wobbles with wide lenses, but other than that if really a fantastic camera

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis you hit the sweet spot, which makes me salivate for a X-S10😁

@@starlightHT same buddy ive been eying the xs10 for a while now it seems to have all the good features in a small body and price is amazing

Yes - you can record 10-bit externally. The studio test was 10-bit

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis ninja V use in 10bit right sir

have you tried one out - I like mine - what about it don’t you like?

Not necessary - but here you go 😀 geni.us/DonateCameraCrisi

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis Sent a couple of bucks. Buddy, I got another question. And I think there are rarely any people around who are more knowledgable on this that you. I got a pretty extensive camera collection on mFT. I love them for video. Im 80% into video an occasionally some picture. I'm extremely happy with my MFT gear and the video capabilities. But from time to time, like Christmas or other happenings where the family comes together, I'm not happy with the high ISO performance indoors. I was owning a Sony A7C, and the pictures were awesome, but I didn't like the video due to shaky image quality. And the lack of 4K60p. So now I'm looking for a camera which is significantly better in low light photography than my Panasonic G9 and the other MFT cameras. But I want to keep it as cheap as possible. I'm looking for a 50mm f1.8 or the equivalent on APSC. Do you see any chance to find a combination of camera and this lens for under $500? Would it be possible to have a significant higher ISO performance than my Panasonic G9 with a f1.7 Leica lens? I'm shooting my 4-year-old running around indoors. So usually my shutter speed is above 1/160. So basically, I miss my Sony A7C with the 50mm 1.8, but I don't want to pay 1,500$ for it. Would you shoot on a A6000 with a Sigma 30mm 1.4? Or would I be disappointed coming from a A7C 50mm 1.8? I also could buy the Olympus 1.2 Pro lens. This would bring my ISO down from 3200 to 1600. But this doesn't transfer an awful picture into a great picture. How to shoot great pictures on Christmas Eve with dim lighting? Looking for 35mm-50mm eqv.

Yes - I would get a Sony a6000 and sigma 30 1.4. That would likely be the cheapest way to get the cleanest pic. You could also consider getting an older full frame DSLR with a 50 1.8, but likely the focus wouldn’t be as easy

The autofocus will be slower and noisier and the lens isn’t as sharp - but for $80 you can’t go wrong!!

@@MarkBennettCameraCrisis I know the FE version is noisy and with slow autofocus, but the OSS (aps-c version) is supposed to be silent and good in autofocus (according to the internet).

the z30 vs zv-e10 should give you an idea because they have the same sensor and the quality will be the same