Way to stick with it!

George likes to light up the model!

While I can understand the sentiment, the reality is we would need all manufacturers to agree on a decoder interface standard, and do not deviate from that as they do now. (21P doesn't mean that all 21P decoders will work all features..) So, we need the NMRA and all loco manufacturers to come together and agree on a single standard.. That certainly would make our lives easier knowing we only had to make one decoder format! grin! Thank you for watching!! ~G

Thanks for the feedback

Our support team can help you figure out what is going on: (970)259-0690 ext. 22 or support@soundtraxx.com

thanks for watching!

Thanks

@@goaliegeorge Thank You so much..You guys at SoundTraxx have AMAZING customer service!

Thanks George for the great video and I too look forward to seeing a video about milling metal without the machines. THANKS!!

I had to modify an Athearn Blue Box frame one time. I used a dremel hand tool. It took me a while to get it where I wanted but it is an alternative than buying an expensive milling machine.

I took mine to a machine shop

@@pablohernandez9405 About 2yrs ago I have since purchased a simple belt Sander commonly used for light metal work from Amazon my video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fLqefpemq5PNiYk.html Cost less than a Dcc card itself... well worth the investment.

Let us know if you need help with anything else: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support

thanks for the feedback. You can contact our Support Department for more info: support@soundtraxx.com

There are various resistors used in this model. You can use one size, but there are other lighting options out there and if we pre-regulates all for LED, then other options become unusable or we’d need another board design. A 1/8th or 1/4 watt resistor doesn’t take up much space and is super cheap to buy. On this install, I used 1k for headlight, back light and ditch lights. I used a 3.3k for number boards, truck and step/courtesy lights and a 5.2k for the blue flag light. Yes, we can adjust the brilliance, but using a bigger resistor on the dimmed lights allows me a slightly dimmer range before the light goes out when I adjust the dimming CVs. The 5.2k was chosen on the blue flag light because the LED light is simply too bright!

To fit all of the speakers he put in there he had to mill it.

Email sales@soundtraxx.com and George will share his LED sources with you. We sell wire on our website: soundtraxx.com/accessories/installation-accessories/wiring-aids/ultra-flexible-wire/

The first place to look for this info would be the manufacturer of the speaker.

A trick I used in my many years doing car audio is use a battery (AA), in this case use a low amp battery such as a coin type battery. You can hold or tape a lead from each side of the battery, then attach one wire to the speaker. Just momentarily tap the other wire to the other speaker input. When you do this, look at the speaker surface from the side. If the surface drops down, you have the incorrect phase. If the speaker pops upwards when you tap your wire, you have the correct phase. Note which wire coming from the battery is the positive side and then you'll know which contact points on the speaker is positive & negative

@@christopherbrown5338 ....thats a cool trick for a larger diaphragm speaker. I would think this would be a bit difficult with a cell speaker?? I'll try it though.

@@WestCoastRails Yes, you are correct. This is a time where some magnification will come in handy. Even a light finger pressure will work

The flux we use comes in a syringe for easy application.

For this particular model, we do not have a video of this. We have several install videos some showing more details on lights. Or you can contact our Support Team for help with this: (970)259-0690 ext.22 or support@soundtraxx.com. Thank you.

Same....Its a hit and miss...first I wire the track leads, then tin the motor wires, now just put the motor wires in the decoder motor tabs and run the loco....if correct , then solder the wires. If not,,,,then obviously switch the motor leads.

Is there a CV you can change to solve the problem if you ready Soldered the wrong wires to the decoder??

@@72zodiac If you are using a long address (number higher than 127) and using 28/128 speed steps then program CV29 to 35. But if you reset the decoder in the future it will return to running backwards.

For LEDs yes. You can find Technical notes on this subject on our website: soundtraxx.com/reference/documentation/

We don't have access to all engines, but you can contact our Customer Support Department to discuss this fit further: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support

It sure is!

Yes it is ok to use 2 speakers.

We will need more information on your model to help you with this. Please contact our Support Team for more help: (970)259-0690 ext. 22 or support@soundtraxx.com You may find your model on our Decoder Selector: soundtraxx.com/reference/decoder-selector

You can order the solder from Digikey. I don’t remember the diameter this minute, but smaller is better. There is not just one brand of Flux that will work. Just make sure it is an electronics grade flux. You can get a good flux from Digikey. Search Chipquik flux syringe. I believe it’s about $12. The stuff we use is a bit more expensive and flows clear. Here’s the stuff George uses at home: www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/chip-quik-inc/SMD291NL/SMD291NL-ND/1160000 It’s about $12 per ‘syringe’ The stuff we have here is Alpha OM-338. You can search online or here’s a link to a random website: www.solderconnection.com/P1186/ALPHA-OM338-LEAD-FREE-FLUX-GEL.html Because it’s an industrial use flux, most of the links want you to contact them for quotes.

@@SoundtraxxDCC Thank you for the reply and info.

@@scottwalters6031 Of course, let us know if you need anything else!

Contact our Customer Support Department for help with this: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support Thank you

No. Railcom is not NMRA DCC compliant.

Resistors are necessary

SoundTraxx when are we going to see LED friendly boards?

@@nicklorusso1024 Unfortunately that is not as simple as it sounds. Not everyone uses the same value. Example I use 1000 (1k) ohm for headlight and ditch lights, but for number board or step lights I use 3.3k. For the blue flag light in the cab I used a 5.7k. That way, I can control the light effect brilliance more based on the purpose of the light. And we’ve had installers complain about the pre-regulated values for LED boards (previous generation TSU-BW1000, KT1000, IM1000) because they were too bright/dim. LEDs are easier to use a resistor with than the 1.5v bulbs. Variations in track voltage are not as potentially damaging to LEDs as the 1.5v bulbs are. I hope this helps.

Better sound, you will get a lot more of the deeper bass tones with these. They are SoundTraxx Mini Cube Speakers: soundtraxx.com/accessories/speakers/oval-speakers/mini-cube-oval-speaker-baffle/

SoundTraxx awesome thank you. I also meant to ask why brand of flux? I like that smalll tip applicator

@@dptrpt There is not just one brand of Flux that will work. Just make sure it is an electronics grade flux. You can get a good flux from Digikey. Search Chipquik flux syringe. I believe it’s about $12. The stuff we use is a bit more expensive and flows clear. Here’s the stuff George uses at home: @t It’s about $12 per ‘syringe’ The stuff we have here is Alpha OM-338. You can search online or here’s a link to a random website: @t Because it’s an industrial use flux, most of the links want you to contact them for quotes.

No, I chose not to install one because after cleaning up the wheels and the axle/wiper contacts, a CurrentKeeper was not necessary. There is plenty of room to install a CurrentKeeper and the wires. If you want to install a CurrentKeeper, you can!

@@SoundtraxxDCC I have 9 of these here along with 2 SD80mac's and unless you cut the connector off of the Current Keeper and solder it to the board you are not going to get that connector on the side of the TSU-PNP to clear. I have installed a TSU-PNP into my Kato C44-9W only to remove it and go with the TSU-2200 so that I can mount the Current Keeper with the decoder. You may have a newer model that has more room is the only thing I can imagine.

I have used a fine-tooth metal hacksaw in many cases. I do not personally have access to a milling machine, which would be the preferred way to get more professional cuts, but a hacksaw and a file can get useable results. Remove all of the motor, trucks, driveline, etc to prevent any damage or metal shavings getting in there to cause excessive wear or possibly to lock up the mechanism. Draw the lines where you want or need the cuts to be made, and take your time to make sure you follow the lines as closely as possible. Once the cuts are made, clean the edges with a file and make sure there are no jagged or sharp edges. The wash and let dry, reassemble and continue the install. This particular cutting was done by a friend who is no longer in town on their milling machine. Sigh.. For more details, contact us at support: (970)259-0690 ext. 22 or support@soundtraxx.com

:)