Honda CB750 Clutch Slipping | Detailed Clutch Rebuild Guide | Cafe Racer Build | 34

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SPANNER RASH

SPANNER RASH

Ай бұрын

Honda CB750 Clutch Slipping | Detailed Clutch Rebuild Guide | Cafe Racer Build | 34
After I finally got to ride my project cafe racer CB750 I found a few issues and what I thought was a misfire actually developed into very obvious clutch slip.
Things that I used:
Westway 10-40w Motorcycle specific oil: ebay.us/EIXt9U
EBC CB750 SOHC F2 Uprated Clutch Springs: ebay.us/gVrrFi
CB750 Type B Clutch Plate: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265610210131
At first I noticed a change in engine note when riding a little faster, I did think it might be clutch slip but it was so inconsistent I wasn't sure. After I had put a few more miles on the bike, the fact that it was clutch slip became more and more obvious. To the point that the slip was so bad I could hardly set off. :) I knew that there may be a number of different issues, but the one thing I realised was that I hadn't adjusted the clutch at all, I had just accepted that it wasn't dragging.
Although the cable was adjusted correctly I hadn't adjust the release mechanism under the cover on the right hand side of the engine. This is where the cable pulls on a lever which then moves a mechanism that releases pressure on the clutch basket. The adjustment is quite simple, in that you have to back off a screw half a turn from fully home, and hold it there with a lock nut.
I suspected that the adjustment was too tight and this was causing the slip, but when I adjusted it, expecting to be able to go for a ride, it made no difference, so I knew I would have to inspect the clutch plates. The other faults there might be are mechanical failure of the releasemechanism that seemed unlikely, or worn or damaged clutch plates. Oh and there was another possibility, the oil I had used was not motorecyle specific. It was very simple car oil. One of the problems with using car oil in a motorcycle is that it can contaminate the wet clutch plates.
I have used mineral car oil in lots of similar bikes in the past, the wisdom being that the cheaper oils didn't have the adatives that affected the plates. I have never been caught out with this before, so I didn't expect to be now.
When I stripped the clutch I did find that the lift plate did have some damage, but nothing that would stop it working OK. I will replace it some time in the future, but new ones are very expensive for what they are, so I will wait until I find one at a swap meet. Apart from the lock washer not being properly fitted everything else seemed in good condition, in fact could almost be new.
The clutch springs where probably fine, but where longer than what I belive is standard, but this seems to be quite common. To ensure they weren't the problem I replaced the with heavier EBC springs, they are quite cheap so it seemed a sensible move, and I could be sure that they were the right ones for this engine.
I also noticed that the last clutch plate which should be B type with longer tangs on the outside was actuall just a standard plate. I bought a correct one to fit, but I do believe that the standard plate should just work fine, there doesn't seem to be any good information on the internet about what the outer plate does, just a lot of conflicting forum posts.
I cleaned all of the clutch plates with brake cleaner. They aren't like the old cork ones, so they don't really soak up a lot of oil. I had a bit of a scare when I removed the engine oil, as I could see lots of sparkles in the oil pan. But I checked some oil straight out of the oil filter and there wasn't any in that, so I realised it was probably the stuff that had come of the clutch plates when I cleaned them in the same oil pan, not emptying it before draining the oil. I am pretty sure about this but I will look at the next oil change.
I removed all of the oil, and have not used the correct 10-40 motorcycle specific oil, which mentions for use with wet clutches. I suspect that it is possible that they have started to add more of the clutch damaging addatives to the cheaper car oils now, and this has caught me out.
Having put it all back totether it now does seem to be working alright, but I won't be able to really tell until I ride the bike. Typically the weather has become very wet, so that wont be for a week or two.
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Пікірлер: 15
@H-M-78
@H-M-78 Ай бұрын
Every time I see that engine I wanna touch it. Really good looking Honda engine. And master content master 👍🤣
@SPANNERRASH
@SPANNERRASH Ай бұрын
I know how you feel! Thanks for the comment.
@andreokazaki14
@andreokazaki14 Ай бұрын
Hi Spanner Rash. This is Andre in Canada again. You had mentioned the difference of the last clutch plate. This is something I've encountered on my CB750 K0 about a month ago when changing the 55 year old clutch fibre and metal plates. The reason for the difference on my K0 was to accommodate a thin ring OEM 22151-300-020 which yours doesn't seem to have. Maybe it wasn't used on later motors? I am a Kawasaki triple enthusiast and my 750 H2s have a similar ring. The purpose is the keep the fingers of the clutch basket from spreading outward under harsh conditions. I don't feel that the CB750 has enough power in stock form to need this but having it, can't hurt. If you have access to a parts book in pdf format online for the year of your motor, you may find the ring has been deleted later on. Great video and please keep them coming.😃
@SPANNERRASH
@SPANNERRASH Ай бұрын
Thanks for the info, you are right, the later ones doesn't have the ring that the earlier bikes had. I still don't know why there is the one different disk. But I have seen a lot of other bikes also have one different clutch disk. I have seen a number of different reasons mentioned online, but not any that make sense.
@The_Actual_Jordan
@The_Actual_Jordan Ай бұрын
Glad to see your progress (havent finished watching though).. however I fear that broken tab might cause vibration in the clutch basket...
@SPANNERRASH
@SPANNERRASH Ай бұрын
Great point! I do intend to get another, but I'm going to hang on until I find one at an autojumble.
@The_Actual_Jordan
@The_Actual_Jordan Ай бұрын
@@SPANNERRASH Goodluck! I hope you come right!👌
@SPANNERRASH
@SPANNERRASH Ай бұрын
Thanks.
@adventuresontheroadandywiley
@adventuresontheroadandywiley Ай бұрын
Hi stripping lots of clutches and normally they are dripping with oil and yours looks very dry and the adjuster was pivoting and not rotating fingers crossed you sort it, I am 18 month into my super sport cafe racer build 👍👍👍
@SPANNERRASH
@SPANNERRASH Ай бұрын
Thanks. Not sure what you mean by pivoting, I'll have to watch the video again to try to see what you mean. I can't wait to getting it going well enough for me to start thinking about the paint.
@YamahaFS1-E
@YamahaFS1-E Ай бұрын
Good afternoon, if the clutch cable has an adjuster at the clutch case end, then the clutch case should have threads too so that you can wind the cable in and adjust the slack properly at that end as well. If the cable is not secure at that end, then you'll always struggle to adjust it properly. Have the threads been stripped out on the case? Maybe its just the wrong cable and it needs one with a wider adjuster?
@SPANNERRASH
@SPANNERRASH Ай бұрын
I'm with you. I expected it to thread in, but the threaded part seems to be bonded to the outer of the cable so it wouldn't be easy to thread it in and out. There is a nut that will adjust how far the threads will go into the hole. I'll have to investigate it further when I next have it apart. But I don't think it would have been causing the clutch slip.
@timstew3726
@timstew3726 Ай бұрын
@@SPANNERRASHIf you can get your hands on the Honda workshop manual, on page 183, you’ll see that there should be 2 hex ‘nuts’ at the casing end, one with a shoulder. This one slides into the casing up to the shoulder and has an internal thread. The threaded portion of the cable screws into this. The other nut is a locknut which should be on the threaded portion of the cable, fwd of the one that slides into the casing. As you turn the cable it will move out of and into the shouldered nut, giving initial adjustment of cable free play at clutch lever. The manual gives the free play amount. When you achieve this amount you tighten the locknut. The final amount of clutch cable free play is achieved at the lever end. Clutch adjustment is as you say in you video.
@SPANNERRASH
@SPANNERRASH Ай бұрын
Shopping for one now! :) I don't suspect this was causing the slip though, there was plenty of play at the lever end.
@thomasceruzzi1871
@thomasceruzzi1871 Ай бұрын
@@SPANNERRASH I'm wondering if there isn't a second nut hidden under the plastic boot that butts up against the one visible nut on the end of the cable going into the case. I'll have to peak at my cables when I get home from work.
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