Can Bilt Hamber Deox-C Save My Rusty Fuel Tank? Honda CB750 Rust Remover Deox-C Review | 32
In this video, I effectively review Bilt Hamber Deox-C by attempting to de-rust the inside of the fuel tank on my project Honda Cafe Racer CB750, along with a little welding to stop it leaking from pin holes.
Bilt Hamber - Deox-C Rust Remover: ebay.us/nX8SiU
Teslong Borescope: www.amazon.co.uk/Inspection-T...
The fuel tank for my Cafe Racer that came with the bike and had already been modified. It has had knee scallops and a neck for a Monza fuel cap welded on to it. I had looked inside and it didn’t have too much rust. It is probably one of the least rusty tanks I have seen on a project bike. But it did have some rust, especially where the welds have been done. I have been told in the past that welded sections on fuel tanks rust quicker than the original tank, and this seems to back that up.
I usually use white vinegar to de-rust tanks, but I have seen a couple of people using a product called Deox-C by a company called Bilt Hamber. I don’t really like the smell of vinegar, so I thought it might be a good idea to try something new. I had been considering using Evaporust, but hadn’t seen it at a reasonable price in the UK, and the Deox-C seemed quite a bit cheaper, so it seems like a great idea.
Bilt Hamber Deox-C comes in powder form, and 1 kg is enough to make 20 litres of de-rusting fluid. They recommend that you use warm water if possible to speed up the reaction, and says that you should immerse rusty items for around 24 hours.
I decided to only make 5 litres for this tank, turning it occasionally to try to make sure that all of the sides of the tank were treated. I think this was a mistake and next time I think I would make enough to completely fill the tank, because I do think I missed some areas even though I did turn the tank quite often.
I checked the inside of the tank with a camera before and after the treatment, and it was clear that the treatment had removed a lot of the rust, so overall I would say it was successful, bearing in mind that I would completely fill the tank next time.
You can re-use the fluid so as long as you can store it, one batch should last some time. Which could make it very cost effective to use. I noticed that the fluid changed colour after use, from being clear to being a yellowy brown colour. I assume it will get darker and dirtier with use and that this would be the guide as to when to dispose of it. As Bilt Hamber say Deox C is biodegradable this shouldn’t be a big problem.
While I was rinsing the tank after the Deox-C review and treatment it became clear that there were a couple of leaks. These were where the welding had been done, and it seemed that when the welds were ground down it left the metal very thin. When we did the new welding on the tank, we ended up not grinding the welds back as much but this will lead to us needing to use more filler when we get the tank ready for paint.
Having seen how thin some of the metal was Young Spanner feels that we should put a liner in the tank. I have never been keen on using a liner, mostly because they are really a problem to get out when they fail. However I have also heard that some people have had good results, and that if a bike is going to get used they can work quite well. It seems only when you leave them to rot for a decade or two that they become a problem. Anyway we are still considering it.
I was hoping that I would get the bike to the point where I could have a ride by now, but due to the welding we had to do that is going to have to wait for a little while longer.
For more helpful how-to guides and restoration project logs, visit our blog: www.spannerrash.com/
As an Amazon Associate, Ebay Partner and Awin Affiliate, we earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. Some of our links are affiliate links, and if you decide to purchase things through them, we earn a small commission. It costs you nothing but helps us to keep the content coming. Thanks for your support!