Thank you Robert. Super happy to hear my video was able to help you. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment. Thank you!

@Tool In Hand - Wow, thank you very much! I really appreciate the compliment. Thanks for taking a moment to leave me some feedback.

@Don AD7LL - Hi Don, thank you very much for such a great compliment. You made my day! I can't tell you how much I enjoy reading a comment from someone telling me my video was able to help them. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback - much appreciated!

Easy to get the cowl off, not quite as easy to replace.

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you for the compliment and I'm super glad to hear my video was helpful to you. I found removing the wiper assembly isn't hard to do and opens everything up, making the job easier. Haven't come across the numbered NGK wires before, I'll have to look into that a bit more. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment. Thank you.

Great tip!

@Jim Beam - Wow Jim, what a great compliment! Thank you. I'm glad you like my videos. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!

Tino Arreguin - Thank you for subscribing! I'm very happy to hear you like the details. I know this makes my videos a bit longer than most, but that is due to providing info that I find lacking in many how-to videos. Over the years it seemed like I would always think "but you didn't show or explain this part of the project." I'm really making an effort to explain projects completely from start to finish and your compliment means a lot to me because it means I'm heading in the right direction. Thank you for taking the time to leave me some feedback, I really appreciate it.

You're welcome

You're welcome Bobby. I hope you found the information useful. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.

@Frances PUAHI - Thank you Frances. I appreciate the compliment!

You're very welcome Carlos. Thanks for stopping by!

@Don AD7LL - You're very welcome!

@Paul McAllister - Interesting. I've never come across a TSB on the anti-seize. I have been involved in many conversations regarding the plugs. The best I can provide is my personal experience which has been nothing but positive with the NGK's and a little dab of anti-seize. Never a problem in 10 years and countless changes. I have tried some other types of plugs that didn't work well. Like any repair, you need to stick to the parts and processes you're comfortable with. This is my particular experience. Thanks for stopping by and providing some input, I really appreciate it!

@@javosgarage I have the same vehicle but with the 3.8 and have a P0303 that is only noticeable in gear at idle and I came across this info while I was researching because I too always use the anti-seize when changing plugs. I've changed injectors and everything else, good compression but still have the misfire.

@Paul McAllister - Hmmm, interesting problem. If it were me and I had new plugs, wires, good compression and a good injector I would be looking at the coil pack. Remotely possible an intake manifold gasket is leaking, but I seriously doubt it. Just trying to think of other causes for you. You've been eliminating all the "normal" possibilities, I would try a new coil pack and see if your code goes away.

@@javosgarage Actually that was the first part I replaced, I've tried swapping injectors then plugs then wires, now I am going thru the harness but don't see any obvious damage.

@Paul McAllister - I didn't want to use the "E" word but I almost mentioned after all those options have been exhausted then I would start looking at electrical. I HATE electrical problems! I've had misfire codes but they've always been resolved through one of the items we've listed here. I wish you the best on this one Paul. The wiring harness for your injectors and coil pack is a smaller one that runs under the upper plenum and has a plug on the RH (or passenger side) of the intake. One time I had a broken wire in there that gave me some issues, only once though. I went to the salvage yard and got a replacement. I didn't want to splice wires together and a salvage yard harness was like $35-$40. I would pull that upper plenum and take a look at your harness after all your mechanical options are exhausted. If you have a meter you could check your wires and know if you have a problem there.

It will be a different procedure Steve and I'm sorry but I do not have a video out on that.... yet. I purchased an 05 T&C Limited I'm making a series of videos with and when I'm done I'll be getting an 08-10 model to start my next series. Sorry I don't have something for you now.

NGK's are pre-gapped

@@TheEastSider76 Always check them. Packages get dropped.

Hi Jeffrey. These plugs came pre-gapped so all I had to do was install them.

@Yo Mama - I'm sorry to hear your having problems with your spark plugs. I have had a few instances myself where it was a struggle to remove some plugs on these vans. A few things come to mind: 1. Using a penetrating oil on the plugs and then allowing some time for it to do it's job should make a huge difference. Now, which oil to use is always a controversial topic because everyone has their favorite and it's always the "best". For me, I have used PB Blaster in the past with good results but the fumes can be a bit overwhelming. Surprisingly, I have had really good results with the WD40 Specialist spray version simply called "Penetrant". I've used it on some pretty bad exhaust bolts and it worked great. I was amazed! The other benefit is it doesn't have a strong chemical smell so you won't pass out from the fumes. The best thing would be to spray around the base of the plug real good a few times the night before and allow it plenty of time to do it's job. 2. If you can do it without burning yourself, a warmed up engine can also make the job easier. Heat causes the metal to expand and loosen things up a bit so you can get the plugs removed. This would be my last option because obviously you can get burned pretty easy on the back side of the motor because it can be a real challenge to access the plug. I hope this helps you a bit. Please let me know how it goes for you and if you have any other questions please feel free to ask, I'll be glad to help any way I can. Thanks for stopping by, I really appreciate it!

@@javosgarage thanks for the tips, i well give it a final push to get done in a few days and thanks for the tip to remove the wiper housing that should help ALOT!!!

@Yo Mama - You're very welcome! Taking that housing off is a game changer isn't it? It adds a little bit of time to the job but it is SOOO worth it. In the end I really believe it actually saves time because you can see what you're working on and have easy access to get to it. Please let me know how it goes for you. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

You left a hose off somewhere

@biskro - The long, flex head ratchet is a Pittsburgh Pro 3/8" from Harbor Freight. Here's a link to it: www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-professional-flex-head-long-handle-ratchet-62333.html I have to be honest and tell you I would look into some other options. I plan to actually sell (or throw into the tool bag in my truck) this ratchet for a few reasons: 1. It doesn't have the quick release button in the head (to each his own but that's a must have for me). 2. The flex head isn't indexed and doesn't like to hold it's position. Other than that the function of the head has been fine, I like the comfort grip and the length of the handle. The other ratchet is a "thumb wheel or finger ratchet" that I got from Home Depot a long time ago. They now have a newer design that is light years better (it's now a gimbal style) but this is a specialty tool I rarely use so it hasn't been at the top of my priority tool list. Here's a link to the new design: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-drive-100-Position-Gimbal-Palm-Ratchet-H10038GRAT/206038561 Hope that helps you. Thanks for stopping by!