I didnt at first. I removed the top, then the bracket and screws in front and on bottom. I have another video uploaded with more in deapth disasembly. I hope this helps.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fNSFfqSKyJuxlp8.htmlsi=jx_Ytoa74Boixv2d

My other video goes into much more detail.

@@vdeish1 General Electric sold their appliance division. Its no longer the same company.

Check out my other video on this dryer, it's much more detailed. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fNSFfqSKyJuxlp8.html

Props man, Thank you.

at that price, i think id rather buy another dryer. new on sale, these things are like $600.00. its a toss up. tomorrow im replacing the pulley.

I ordered a new pully for mine a few days ago and will be posting another video with installing it once it gets here. Cheers!

Connector's. And remove the screws behind the door top and middle. I had to tear the machine back open to grease the idler pulley. The idler was what was screeching. The grease on the idler fixed it. It took a few runnings for the grease to rid the little chirps here and there, but it fixed the problem. I left the door attached, realigning it would have been a pain. but the three screws in the middle, infront of the lint trap, as well as the ones across the top(door side) need to come out. There are also 4 on the floor.

When I clean the rollers again, I may. It'll be needing it. Check out my other video on this same dryer, It's more detailed.

draw a picture of the screw locations, and sizes. there are 2 or 3 different sizes. or take a picture. That's the most of it. The air duct on the bottom has I think 4 screws. be patient. Grease is your friend. After I greased the tensions pulley, the squeal faded and is now gone. be careful not to get grease on the belt. And when putting the belt back on, do it before putting any screws in. It's not a very hard process, just keep track of the screws. You've got this. :)

1. I still needed to remove the hair on the front bearings. 2. Noone else had a video on removing the back. 3. My dryer vent was still plugged in and to me replacing that is woth 3 or 4 face removals. 4. I really think the whole duct install/reinstall turned me away. 5. I needed to vacuum out the dryer exhaust fan. 6. I have no idea. 7. I didn't have patience to move the dryer and replace the dryer duct. 8. I'm glad I removed the face instead. 9. I didn't need to fuss with the power cord. 10. How are the SeaHawks doing?

like 4 bad serpentine belts all singing together. Not too good.

Nah, I haven't had this problem yet. There could be several points to check. If you have a soldering iron, you may be able to replace, if they've gone bad, the relays on the control board. Prior to the relays though you'll find fuses and a microcontroller. Electronic stuff. After detaching it, you can test the resistance of the heating element. I'm not sure what the resistance should be. But if it's within in spec, your next visit would be the relays. If the dryer is operating without any problem, minus the heat, I think the first place I'd check would be the relays. Make sure they are unsoldered, and there is absolutely no power on them of any kind. The way they work is 5volts DC is sent to a gate, or switch. Once the relay receives the 5 volts, it opens this gate. Once the gate is opened, in comes the water -- 240 VAC. What will happen sometimes is that the gate gets burnt out and either fry's the relay or the fuses it's connected to. With any luck, you can buy the relay for $1.00 to $2.00. Same thing for the fuses or resistors. If the microcontroller is shot, you're not going to find a replacement IC unless you hand code an Arduino. Sorry Maria Thomas that you've got the problem. If you can check the electromagnetic coil voltage on the relay, you may be able to save yourself a few hundreds and hundreds of dollars. A decent soldering iron is about $20.00 and a usable volt meter is about $10.00. Make sure when checking though that the entire power supply is removed. if not, you'll short out 240VAC and end up waking up 30 feet or so from the dryer. Your hair may be a different color too. Take care Maria Thomas. One more note, sometimes Whirlpool will use fuses that look very much like through hole resistors. Chances are at least one of these has been burnt out too. $.20. You should be able to order parts from either ebay, digikey, jameco, or mouser.com.

one more thing to check that could affect the dryer heat is the thermocouple. The computer reads the voltage difference between two expanding metals. This too is like a $3.00 part.

Yes. If in doubt, follow the wiring diagram. Online, or Whirlpool tech support i think it was 888 775 6937 or something like that. Cheers.

Penny if it's not too late, order a new pulley and screw. I greased mine, and occasionally it does squeel again for about 10 seconds. It's intermittant. But if you're tearing into it, I'd recommend swaping out the pulley. Greasing it will work. But it'll squeal maybe 1 out of 7 days for like 10 seconds. You can do this. Label your screws. maybe use different colored sharpies.

@@KJ7JHN Okay.....I'm gonna tackle this bad boy today!!! What type of high temp grease do you recommend for greasing the pulley? So stinkin scared I'm gonna mess this up, but my only other alternative is to drop $650+ and wait for 2 months for a new dryer! Yea...I'm gonna try it myself first...then, if I mess it up, I will go buy the new one..Lol

@@Pennya-lj3lt I just saw this post: How'd it go? The high temp grease i use is bearing grease from like 20 years ago. I think Lowe's sells what is called red tacky grease. I believe this to be the same stuff. I will tell you that if you only grease the pulley, it will most likely still screach. Just a lot less frequently and for a shorter period. When I replaced the pulley, the plastic wheel only just barely moved. So I highly recommend replacing the pulley. Sorry I saw this message so late. I hope all went well.

I have another video showing how to take out the screws one by one if that helps.