Also using heat to remove the turbine side is a must if it doesn't tap off easily with a hammer 👍

That's great information - thanks for commenting!

Hi, many thanks for the comment and the sub! :-)

Thanks! Yes they are amazing engines for sure, and can be helped to live a very long time with a bit of love.

Great to hear!

Great to hear!

Awesome - that's great to hear!

Hi, thanks for watching, and glad it helped you out!

Hi, thanks for watching, and for the great suggestion!

Thanks for watching!

Hi, thanks for watching, and hope the cleaning projects work out great!

Thank you very much! :-)

Glad you like them!

@@StevenBTuner i watched all of it. I am saying that not all turbos are equally adjusted in my experience. I use a diagnostic tool to show me values and adjust accordingly.

@@marcass100 Hi, even 2 identical turbos will be set differently if they have been calibrated by different companies. This is one of those situations where the car's own self test is the only one that really matters.

@@StevenBTuner do you think that self test is very much affected by small margins? I have been messing with these Mitsubishi turbos and these actuators for a while now and i am finding that there isnt much difference in +/- few rotations on a thread. But yeah I do try to use the same adjustment method like you just never found it noticeable on the road if its one turn one way or another. Obviously too much and it doesn't pull or overboosts but in my amateur experience there is room for mechanical adjustment without getting it completely wrong.

@@marcass100 Hi, your observations match mine - there is a fair bit of variance allowed for in the system. Part of it is because there is going to be linkage wear over time, and everything needs to work even with a bit of slack in the joints. Another reason that it doesn't have to be precise is the position of the VNT vanes does not have to match up with a particular boost level - if the engine needs more boost then it will adjust the position, and if that is not enough then it will adjust some more...continuously.

Awesome plan!

Thanks! Would you believe it...I've got to this job again on this turbo! These early Mitsubishi turbos aren't the best ones ever made, but at least the spare parts are dirt cheap.

Hi, thanks for watching, and glad the video helps you out!

if its blowing oil, then you will not fix it, its only geometry of turbo you can clean it.

Glad you think so!

Glad it helped out, and well done on a good job!

Thanks! :-)

Glad you liked it!

Hi, I'm glad you got something out of it!

Glad you liked it!

Welcome!

Many thanks!

Hi, I'm really glad you like it!

Hi, many thanks for watching, and for the great comment! :-)

Hi, the turbo will probably be coming out again this year after I experiment with 3 bar of boost (probably in a lot more pieces) so there will be a chance to film the steps, although getting a camera into some of the places might be big challenge as it is difficult enough to get a small spanner in to some spots!

Steven B. Tuner yeah you are 100 percent right even if you just have it from a far and then explain it as you’re doing maybe you’re a smart guy I’m sure you will figure it out thank you again it makes me more comfortable to have a go on my 2010 E92 320D Coupe also can you as you’re doing it also tell us the size of bolts nuts ect ect to each component I know I’m asking a lot lol cheers mate

Thanks for the visit

@@StevenBTuner No probs Steven. What is the best way to diesel bleed a m57 as the fuel rail has been off for a while and the car is together now but wont start?

Hi, thanks for watching!

lots of blue smoke with my 335d I think seals are bad in the turbo. do you think its worth try to rebuild?

Hi, once the seals are gone you'll probably find the VNT ring is on its way out too, so there is a good chance that a new turbo is more cost effective. All the best in getting your BMW back to full health!

I got a central cartridge for £55 and not that I needed one but the vane assembly you can get for around £70 so definitely worth overhauling yourself as a a turbo complete is over £200. Instead of using a puller to remove the cane assy, I soaked in wd40 for an hour then used the open end of a spanner as a lever either side and it popped right off. 👍 great video by the way- thanks

Steven B. Tuner Thanks. Turns out I was getting crankcase pressure from a poorly designed oil catch can system Took it off and went back to the stock CCV and it has resolved my issue.

@@bensimms3755 Great to hear that you got to the bottom of the issue! (although it is always a bit sad to hear that what was supposed to be an improvement ends up being a greater problem...)

Thank you 🤗

Glad you liked it!

Thanks - I hope it helps you out!

Hi, see towards the end of the vid...

Hi, thanks for watching! On vehicles that don't have an integrated Diesel Oxidation Catalyst. like the 2006 BMW from the video, the DPF regeneration is done by a post injection pulse from the fuel injectors in combination with activation of the glow plugs, which ignites the diesel. This technique heats up and cleans everything in its path including the exhaust valves, exhaust manifold, turbo and then finally the DPF. In fact the turbo vanes get a better clean than the DPF because they are hit with a higher temperature. If you remove the DPF and disable the regeneration cycles, then there is no longer periodic cleaning of the turbo or exhaust manifold either.

Hi, thanks for the great suggestion! I'll give it a try next time.

Hi, if the turbo doesn't come on boost until 3000rpm, or alternatively if it comes on strong at the low end and then runs out of puff at 3500rpm then you have got it a long way off.

Hi, thanks for that great suggestion!

Hi, thanks for watching, and I'm glad you find them useful!

Hi, thanks for watching! Absolutely, if there is any shaft movement then put in a new cartridge while everything is apart.

Hi, great work on getting your DPF clean! I'm not familiar with your car, but dirty/clogged pcv systems can be quite common on some models.

Hi, some oil in the intake system is completely normal and won't cause you any problems. Black smoke is going to be from unburnt diesel - so either the injector nozzles could do with a clean or a tune has been applied to the engine that is going a bit far on the fueling.

Hi, thanks for watching! My actuator has just started to fail, so my turbo is coming out soon too! Whether you replace the whole turbo depends on how old it is - If it has 100,000 miles on it then buying a new one, or doing a full re-build could be the best choice. Don't be too scared of the actuator - if you take some measurements from the old one, and then set the new one the same then it should be very close to right, if not perfect. Doing the actuator calibration as shown in the video will make sure it is near enough to 100% right. I should mention that it is possible to re-build the actuator as well, and I will be doing that in a future video. All the best in getting your turbo back to full health!

@@StevenBTuner are you a kind of god? haha Best channel/youtuber ever! Thanks a lot bro.

@@StevenBTuner id really like to see how the actuator could be rebuilt :) great content!

Hi, you will have to have everything bolted together first.

Time to hit the live data diagnostics with an OBD2 reader (Autel AP200 or better). Start with making sure the car is getting fully up to temperature. If the turbo is clogged up then you need to see why - it can be a malfunctioning EGR valve, bad glow plug relay, boost leaks. If your DPF regeneration is not working then your turbo will get clogged up too! Good luck with the troubleshooting!

Hi, thanks for watching! The turbo featured in the video is an OEM Mitsubishi that was used in the 2.0 diesels from 2005 - 2007. I would be a bit wary of a lot of the offerings on Ebay unless they come from a (relatively) local shop with a solid reputation where you can call someone up and talk to them - there are just too many very convincing fake turbo parts floating around now. A different turbo may use an o ring on the compressor side, whereas the unit in the vid doesn't have one.

Hi, thanks for watching! That could be a very tricky error to diagnose because so many things could cause it including a bad fuel injector, HP fuel pump, a sensor, or a bad re-map...

Hi, I would check out the EGR valve and glow plugs first. All the best in getting everything working 100% again!

Aaah, unfortunately not. I hope you can track down some specs!

@@StevenBTuner I didn't manage to find them so I just tightened them up as much as i reasonably could with a short spanner. No leaks or problems so fingers crossed it's ok. Thanks again for the vid.

@@DanAir You probably know from experience what it's like if you tighten little bolts too far. I'll keep my finger's crossed 🙂

Also i have 140000 miles on the clock

Hi, thanks for watching! The whining noise could indicate that the bearings are worn out, which causes the impeller blades to rub against the housing. You can check this by looking in the front of the turbo and seeing if the shaft moves for and aft, and whether there is scoring on the alloy housing and/or broken or chipped blades. It could be that to fix those things ends up costing as much as a reconditioned turbo from a reputable company.

Hi, whistling is never the best sign as it is caused by the blades rubbing on the alloy housing. The re-map may be pushing the turbo to spin faster than before, so the sound is a bit more obvious.

@@StevenBTuner Thanks, i will remove it from car and send to rebuild

Hi, since your DPF and turbo are right next to each other, whatever you find in your DPF will also be in your turbo. For example, if your DPF is clogged up with lots of oily gunk then that is going to be in your turbo too, but if your DPF is in good condition (apart from the end-of-life ash clogging of course) then your turbo is probably ok too.

@@StevenBTuner thanks good info as usual 😉

Hi, there shouldn't be much movement on any of the pipes. However, if there is no oil spray nearby then it is not an issue yet.

Hi, thanks for watching! Your 320D doesn't have a boost solenoid, it has instead a Hella electronic actuator that controls the variable vanes on the turbo nozzle ring - you will see it in the video as it is part of the turbo. The actuator has parts that can wear out, but a stuck actuator can also be as a result of the variable nozzle ring being completely rusted up (not likely if you have a DPF) or clogged up with soot as a result of some other failure.

Hi, some of the E60s have the same turbo as in the vid, so it could definitely work in that case.

Hi, I have never heard of any downside to using 10w40 or 5w40 or 0w40 instead except for a very small reduction in fuel efficiency. I'm not sure if it will make any difference to your oil leak though!

Hi, it can be a bit tricky to diagnose as there is often a bit of oil in the charge pipes even in a new car. If there is a lot of oil going into the exhaust then you will have to top up the oil every month, and the DPF will show more and more back pressure.

@@StevenBTuner thanks would it be a idear just to replace turbo easy to replace I'd seals gone.

Hi, if it is the turbo then you can either replace the whole thing or replace the individual components as shown in my vid - the choice is yours depending on how much DIY you feel like doing. Another thing check is whether the excessive oil is coming from the crankcase - this can happen when the rocker cover gasket gets old and lets boost pressure go where it shouldn't.

Hi, thanks for watching and commenting! The one in the vid is 10 liters, so 3 liters might do it if the dimensions are just right. Best of luck with your turbo restoration.

Hi, a little bit of oil on the intake compressor side is usually nothing to worry about, but a new cartridge kit will improve it.

Hi, there are a number of turbos and actuators that go on the m47 engines. I have an N47 turbo and actuator here, and the actuator looks to be the same as the one on the car in the vid: 320D M47 TU2 from 12/2005.

Hi, if you can measure the distance or number of threads then you should be able to get it pretty close. When it does a self test it might tell you if it is way out, if not then you will find that boost comes on way too late, or doesn't come on fully - and then you can try one turn and see what changes...

@@StevenBTuner good ideas! thank you :)

@@StevenBTuner Hello Steven one more question finally have new actuator on the way, how is the lever held on the actual rod, its not very clear from the video does it just slide on?

Hi, there can be two reasons for that happening. The actuator can be starting to fail - and you will notice that sometimes the car has full power and sometimes the power is low. The other reason is that the actuator is fine but it is getting stuck as the VNT ring is either clogged up or is broken - and the car will probably be low on power all of the time. If you leave the second problem for long enough then the actuator will eventually fail too.

Hi, thanks for watching! I am not sure that the fuel tank treatment would be enough, but the Seafoam treatment that you add directly to the intake system might very well do some cleaning of the turbo, in addition to the engine. I haven't tested it myself, but it might be something for the future.

Hi, moving in and out by about 1mm is okay, but moving side to side so that the blades hit the alloy case is definitely a bad sign.

@StevenBTuner after my disassembly i found out that the cast iron was cracked.. and i cannot find any spare parts in my region, so going for new turbo. Btw i used a 10mm wrench and used the rounded U side to remove the nozzle ring, pry'ed a little in the star pattern it was really stuck, but with minimal pressure it popped of easy alltough.

Sounds like you're on top of things :-)

I have no In-and-Out play, but i have about 1mm of side-to-side play. It doesn't seem to be hitting the alloy casing since i dont see any scratch marks, it just gets close to it. But it also whistles a bit.. has been doing that for a long long time..but you can only notice it when aircon is off and no music so that the interior is silent.. and at low speeds, wind noise easily overcomes the whistle. New cartrige needed? @@StevenBTuner

Hi, there are quite a few differences - so it would definitely be worth finding specific information if you can.

Hi, the turbo is not the same, but the parts are similar and the techniques used in the video will still apply.

@@StevenBTuner Thank you. I will try next weekend.

Hi, a good video idea! :-) The turbo is already cleaned as a side effect of the normal DPF regeneration cycle, so it shouldn't need any manual cleaning. The way to kill the turbo is to not change the engine oil often enough or to drive the car hard and then turn off the engine straight away (and repeat for years). E90 turbos aren't water cooled like later models, so you need to treat them well to get a really long life. At 500tkm the engine is probably on its second set of injectors (unless nozzle cleans have been done every 150-200tkms), its 2nd or 3rd DPF (or full ash cleaning has been done), and its 2nd or 3rd turbo. Like most cars, the economics don't really make sense when a car is over 12 years old / 300tkms as the maintenance costs will overtake how much the car is worth - unless you do the work yourself ;-)

@@StevenBTuner Most of the time they break on BMW because the DPF is clogged, the DPF is too small on BMW. BMW crap oil change interval is also a factor.

@@kaankumas61 Hi, a blocked DPF will do the turbo absolutely no favors. There are not that many different DPFs used throughout the BMW range, so sometimes they are on the small side, and sometimes a bit larger than necessary...

...and your recommended fail-safe method to share with everyone is?

@@StevenBTuner its not as fail safe but much better. WD40 and heat is all you need. Empty the whole can of wd40 into the exhaust or turbine side. leave it for hours. then heat the exhaust side housing, knock it lightly and it will fall out. Of course you can use the forcing screws to put some little pressure on the housing. I have seen workmates crack that impeller housing because they tried to force it out without using heat and wd40.

@@tavasikachabvonga5026 Thanks - that is a great suggestion!

@@tavasikachabvonga5026 That´s exactly how I cracked the impeller housing, just force and no heat! You´re right on this, later on I tried with a gas torch and it came off easily (just too late in that case, but at least I learned something..). Instead of the normal WD40 I would recommend a special rust remover.

@@andykarmann2716 you right. use a lot of rust remover and soak it for some hours if need be

Teşekkürler

Perfect!

@@StevenBTuner hey mate, you should buy a cheap used E60 520d and believe me , you'll get million views with it and expand your channel even more .lot of People OWN these Cars and don't Know how to deal with problems .... Unlike me hahaha. What you think about this. You can perfectly rebuild it with your tech brain 😉

Hi, there a fair chance that the housing is cracked - time for a re-build or replacement.

@@StevenBTuner apparently was replaced just prior to me purchasing so maybe not tightened enough? Once the turbo comes in it goes like a rocket 🚀

@@snatchwars Hmm, maybe... if the boost is good, but late, then it can also be an issue with the actuator, actuator calibration or VNT ring. Doesn't sound like the best replacement job was done!

@@StevenBTuner looks like I'll have to whip the thing out. Just a thought but if they just straight changed the turbo without calibrating the actuator, what would happen?

@@snatchwars I installed a turbo that wasn't adjusted right, and nothing happened until 2500rpm and then bam - boost time! But a maladjustment could also mean that the car just goes into limp home mode too. You can adjust the actuator position while the turbo is in the car - the first step is to watch what it does when it performs its self test when you unlock the car with the remote. It should do a full sweep of the VNT positions and then lock in place ready for starting the car.

Hi, thanks for watching! The turbo featured in this video is a small Mitsubishi (branded as BMW), and is pretty cheap as far as turbos go at a few hundred dollars. Be aware that there a lot of cheaper copies now appearing that look the same, but don't have either BMW or Mitsubishi on them, so the quality is completely unknown.

Hi, I have a lot of different brands in my tool collection. Is there a particular one you were referring to?

@@StevenBTuner the combination spanners with the deep ring at 90 deg to the open end, like in this video

Hi, you can get some high pitched noise if the shaft has fore/aft movement and it rubs against the alloy housing. It is pretty easy to see by removing the pipe going to the front of the turbo and having a look. You can replace the turbo or just the cartridge if everything else looks okay.

@@StevenBTuner thanks for your response. The shaft/propeler moves quite much back and foward, but not up and down. Can you just thight it up or is it about to give upp?

@@victorlarsson1815 Hi, back and forth movement will lead to the blades hitting the casing and breaking off eventually, so it is a bit of a ticking timebomb.

Hi, thanks for watching! They look identical. The actuator part number on the 2005 is: 135-19495 K006T50171 5623 , and the part number on the 2007 is: 135-19611 K006T50172 6X30. I don't know whether that 1 number difference is anything significant, or just a revision.

@@StevenBTuner Okay Thank You, so it might work then... I realy hope so

@@StevenBTunerI dont know if the shaft of the Actuator will be the same length. Might be the only problem

Hi, I just measured the actuator travel on each and they are within a millimeter of each other - I couldn't get a more accurate measurement while they are still in their housing. I would bet on them being interchangeable.

@@StevenBTuner Thank you Steven you are awsum.

Hi, thanks for watching and commenting! That is the normal key covered in laser-cut 3M blue carbon wrap, and I got it from an Ebay seller. I didn't expect it to last, but it is going strong after more than 4 years of being dropped, rubbed against other keys and generally abused. Unfortunately, I can't recall the seller I got it from.

@@StevenBTuner brilliant! Thanks very much for the reply. Love it!

Good suggestion!

@@StevenBTuner yep, i know.

Hi, thanks for watching! A new turbo is always going to be the best solution, and for these engines they are not that expensive.

@@StevenBTuner ok, thanks for the advice

Hi, thanks for watching! There are a lot of small moving parts in a variable nozzle turbo, so there are a lot places for soot to build up. If the DPF has been removed and the DPF 600 degree Celcius regeneration cycle cancelled, then there is no longer any soot burn-off cycle to remove the build-up. How much of a problem this becomes depends on your engine tuning and driving habits. There is another issue that can occur when a DPF is removed and you live in place with high humidity - and that is that your variable nozzle parts can rust when you leave your vehicle parked up outside for a couple of weeks when you go on holiday (for example), and the moist air enters the exhaust pipe and can travel unhindered all the way to the turbo. This is especially a problem if you put on a big bore straight pipe exhaust.

My 120d didn't have dpf only cat, Can you hear from this video what could be the problem, my engine in 120d is to loud, m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aLiTjcmdp8_Nhp8.html My buddy have e90 with same m47 engine and it's a lot quieter, i only have downpipe, on my car, he had straight pipe exhaust, video is taken with same phone, i replaced crankshaft pulley, but sound is still there, like engine is whine, ac, alternator, all is good

Hi, I understand - it is on my list to re-release all of the vids with the music removed.

Hi, that turbo is not looking in the best shape! While it is entirely possible to change out the cartridge on that turbo, you might find that in a year it needs a new VNT ring, and then a year after that a new actuator etc - so you have to come to your own conclusion about how much fun it is to take the turbo out :-) I would go for a brand new OEM and be confident that it is good for another 190,000kms, and they can be found brand new in a few places other than BMW (search on the BMW part number to start with).

@@StevenBTuner I apologize for my late reply. I DID read your message, but did not have time to respond and then forgot about it for a few weeks. I'm sorry! When researching to buying a new one, I could not find any. All turbo's I found were restored. I also contacted some companies and concluded that they all did the same: namely changing the cartridge and call it restored. Hence I decided to do it myself and follow the instructions from your video. I'm very happy I did! It was a very good learning opportunity and it gave me great insight into the state of the internal components. The VNT looked brilliant actually (luckily), the actuator seemed fine (except for some play on the arm connecting the actuator with the VNT, that was worn out). My car runs a lot better now and it only costed me around €280. She also stopped consuming liters and liters of oil, which was obviously due to the incredible play. Keep up the amazing videos. I love them! As you might remember I have also done your creative DPF-cleaning method, something I'm still content with. Regards, Woudjee

@@woudjee2 That's really great to hear - well done!

Hey Steven, I have a different question which I don’t know where to put, so I’ll put it here. My car has just reached 400.000km, something which I’m super happy about, I really want to push through to the half a million, but I’m worried about my oil consumption. As you know, I’m a sensible but quick driver. Over the past 1.750 km she has drank 750 mL of oil. I feel that’s a bit much. I would have accepted 200 mL during this distance. The kilometers have been through Germany and the Swiss alps as I’m currently still in Switzerland. I feel that with a little slower driving this number van be 600 mL per 2.000 km, which I would still find quite a lot. I would consider doing an engine rebuild, replacing the piston rings and the valve seals. I’m wondering what you’re thoughts are about what I should do. I don’t want to buy a new car, I want my E81 to reach the 500.000 km. 👍

@@woudjee2 Hi! It might seem like a lot, but for most cars out there that would not be enough to force a dealer to investigate an issue on a car that is one year old. Of course it always a good idea to make sure there are no oil leaks near the oil filter or from the rocker cover seal, as well as making sure the turbo isn't leaking oil (you have already looked after that). A rebuild is pretty drastic action to stop a bit of oil usage, and often works out a lot more expensive than buying a suitable low km engine. I think you could very well reach that 500 000 km goal.