Why does the label change on the alloy cleaner to phosphoric acid, maybe wrongly labelled?! Just to add Coke contains a small amount of phosphoric acid..

Iv got the code cc Id 131 parking light failure…. But all the lights are working on the front …. Any clues as to how to fix this ?

The best method is to remove government regulations and regulatory agencies. These devices are dumb, and cause more harm than good, and line pockets of high up people.

Thank you so much, I see your video previously, but returned to it yesterday after the dreaded engine management light, and spanner icon on dashboard, advising me to take my car to a Ford dealer, to get the issue resolved, I crushed up a dishwasher tab, something that I used previously to clear my windscreen washer pipes on my BMW, getting back to the Ford I crushed up 1 tablet to 700ml of warm water, and sprayed into my DPF, I then used a cheap 12v cigarette lighter pump, what you would use to inflate an airbed, to blow the mixture through, and drove the vehicle for 2 miles, once I turned engine off and on again, the spanner light had gone, and I was able to clear the remaining DPF fault with my Autel scanner, absolutely amazing. Thank You 🎉👊

"I don't think I'll drink another cola in my life" Why? Your guts made of ash and carbon? That's like seeing water rust away metal and going "I'm never drinking water again, see how it corrodes stuff?"

Hello. I just did this process, but i still get the fault codes even after deleting them. Car is a 2013 fiesta 1.6 TDCi. I have also changed all of the sensors lige dpf pressure sensor, map and maf. Im lost now and going on vacation in the car next Saturday. 🤔😮‍💨

Those hub /axle nuts 🌰 most all are now just rusted acorn nightmares !! No socket is fitting on those nightmares !

Great video, thanks!

Great vídeo. Thanks !

I used a 1/4 drive socket fitted backwards on the extension to clean the injector hole. Find one that’s a good fit. Ideally measure do it’s same diameter as the injector end. I stock on some self adhesive abrasive to clean the metal and lubricated it with WD40. Helps the filings to stick. Vacuum the hole clean, check and redo if necessary.

Hi Steven, do you think it would be more effective and at the same time still safe to use warm/hot water with the acid. You said that the Sodium Hydroxide should't be above 100°C but what about the acid. Generally speaking the warmer the quicker the chemical reaction, or not?

Good video and explanations, but I would have blanked one end of the DPF and then filled it up with your solutions . I have used plain washing up liquid or soap powder and water for carbon deposits on things like EGR valves and coolers, cylinder head valves, turbocharger gas side components on large marine diesels burning bunker fuel, soap powder rather than detergent is far more effective and has no effect on your hands. Oven cleaner is another strong caustic solution, but would need diluting. If you want to dissolve scale in your kettle, simple malt vinegar works better and cheaper than descalers.

So pool acid is the winner 😊

Hi Steven. Very nice and detail video. Did you tested leak off test after injector tips cleaning? Did injector with bigger back flow gets normal value now? And one extra question. If i have correction -2.5, 0.4, 2.5, and 0.6. What injector is bad 3rd or 1st?

I'd like to wash a dpf with a dishwasher tab, do I need to remove the sensors or is it fine to leave them in?

Heatgun works for off car regen of a dpf. Ash doesn't burn . Need to fluhlah it out

cracked dpf will clear the codes but will be useless.

A good friend of mine told me years ago to use a dishwasher tablet and hot water he said they used to do it in the DPFS on the machines at the company he used to work for because they only used to run them in low revs so they got blocked quite quickly quite often I thought it was an old wives tale but I guess he weren't lying 😳😳

Thanks.İts amazing.Your car is diesel ?

In my E90 it was the brake pad wear sensor had broken

The best and most reliable solution that you were asking about is to abandon the plastic click-in connections entirely.

Thank you so much. No BS just straight to the point and clear and simple. Legend. So much faster than re reading the manual especially for someone with dyslexia 😂.

Brake cleaner is pretty toxic

How is the vehicle running while all that fuel is being taken from it?

Good evening friend, great video, including the test of various chemicals from the other video, I'm from Brazil and I have a question about caustic soda and the acid not reacting with the internal components of the catalyst and dpf? since it contains some metals in its composition, thank you!

Mine 167 wanted me to schedule service to reset clock ⏰

Really clear and informative video, took away a lot of the mystique about what can and can't be done to injectors.

excellent vid.. thank you !

What brand name of dishwasher tab did you use????????

biltema ❤❤

Hello Steven, I am happy to report that after a second treatment but this time for 24 hr exposure in the DPF cleaning process , my 2014 Porsche Cayenne DPF is back to normal. I just finished testing it and it drives like new again and no more "Check engine/Glow plug" lights. Thank you so much for all your guidance and for saving me at least $7K in total repairs.

Thanks a lot for the large test, tried the dishwasher tabs method and it worked! Good job Man!

Hi and thank you so much for the vids. I see you haven't made any lately but that you still seem to be answering comments! Think I've read most of the comments but (correct me if I'm wrong) haven't seen anyone pointing to this scientific paper published in 2006 (the abstract: pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16570632/ (can also google the title and find the whole thing)), which seemingly proves that oxalic and citric acid improve catalytic activity, with oxalic being more effective at removing phosphorous and sulfur, and citric being more effective on lead and zinc (+others). And though DPF and catalytic converters are not the same thing, perhaps the best cleaner(s) for a DPF also could be oxalic/citric, or a combo(?) Would love to see a video on this! Either way the paper is an interesting read. (and apologies if it's been pointed to before!)

Doing this myself. Funny that a 5l jug of Hydrochloric acid in my country costs 80€. A professional DPF clean costs 300€, suddenly the price starts to make sense.

Is this work on diesel dpf?

What did you use to clean the glasses? 😁

Hello, Steven and thanks for this very useful video. My DPF is together with the catalytic converter in one unit. I have 10% hydrochloric acid - I intend to use it for the cleaning of the ash deposits. Should I do so? Is it the same as using "brick" acid? Will this hydrochloric acid damage the catalytic converter or the dpf? Should I delute the acid?

After cleaning do you need to test them or just put them back in the car the correct way? Will they calibrate themselves to the correct pressure. I have Delphi injectors from POLO TDI

The best vidéo on youtube. Thank you.

👍🏻 👌 ✅

What you mean for a dishwasher tab? Mean a diswasher cleaning soap?

Q: is that real mileage on your front illustration, 317893 Km is around 200,000 miles have you really driven that far !!! in that Car !!! I am astonished... please tell ?

Can also use tsp and water solution. Its very good for oily stuff. It will not eat the ceramic either. I would alternate 2 cans of oven cleaner and 2 solutions of tsp. Its a powder, mix it with water, like 2 tbsp per 8oz. Cheap cheap way of doing it i think. It really strips and cleans, it leaves no residue, i think oven cleaner leaves a film of slick stuff sometimes. It would be more ideal to backwash, So i think there is a process where you drill a 1 inch hole, insert a plug that inflates, like a bulb with a pump, that seals engine exhaust from water. Then spray and set for 2 hours, backwash from catalytic split, and repeat it that way 4 times. Would take hose adapter, inflatable plug, and a way to seal the 1 inch hole, welding it up. But, if thats easier than rippin out the garbage factory shit, THEN definetly use the butt plug method. Or the oven cleaner tsp method. Best yet way i think is alternate concentrated sulfuric acid wash and tsp wash giving an hour or 2 for it to sit in and dissolve the crud. Would dilute the stuff before running or regen, and end it with the basic tsp for least amount of corrosion after. Its the most intensive chemical method, high ph swing washing. Or maybe hydrogen peroxide concentrated alternate with tsp would be better too. There should be a test with one removed, in a ultrasonic cleaner to see which one works best.

WD-40 isn't very good for rubber belts... Maybe water is safer to test with?

Mines bringing up a different symbol

I did mine but didn't mark Mt injectors so not shore if I have over tightened them and put them out of calibration

I have a 2011 Subaru Forester which I bought 2nd hand in 2020 (nearly 4 years ago now). Despite 90% of my driving being on country roads, the instrument panel recently decided to start celebrating Christmas early with a display of various warning lights - including the DPF light. Consequently, I took the car to my "trusted" mechanic near Breadalbane NSW. He tried forcing DPF regens, but couldn't get the soot levels below 61%. He said that my DPF was dead and that I needed a new one (supply and fit > $2k). However, he couldn't tell me what was specifically wrong with my DPF or what was causing the high soot level. He said that the ash level was reporting as only 35% and that the level would have to be much higher that that in a 300K km engine. I told him that I had sent that DPF off for a professional clean only about 80K km prior, so 35% seemed correct to me, but he would not be convinced. He obviously knew better than me and didn't want to enter into any further discussion or diagnosis of cause - he just wanted to know when I wanted him to supply and fit a new DPF to my car. I agreed to disagree with my (now former) mechanic and went looking for ideas from the web. And then I found Steve's video (above). The detail provided by Steve was exceptional and it gave me the confidence to tackle the cleaning of my DPF at home. After buying all the required materials and safety equipment, I started by removing the DPF, flushing it with degreaser to remove as much soot as possible and then followed Steve's instructions to flush the DPF using diluted brick acid followed by a thorough rinse out - I did all of this in a wheelie bin. I reinstalled the DPF and took the car to a different Subi mechanic who reprogrammed the ECU to indicate that a new DPF had been installed (total cost $75). The result is that I have a car that is running as good as new. The fuel consumption is as low or lower than at any time since I bought the car. All I need to do now is find a place to dispose of the used degreaser and acid. So thanks Steve for your time and effort to educate us on how to avoid a costly and unnecessary replacement of a DPF.

Hi 😃 I am driving a BMW 118 D 1 series of 2008. (E87) I have my car now for 11 years and really happy with it. Now for the last two years the DPF signal light always up exactly after 9 minutes when I start the motor. Always after 9 minutes exactly. My car drives normal so no problem there. What do you think this can be? Bad sensor? A yeah I have today 231 000 km and counting. With kind regards Tim

Zdravím já použil na čištění u nás tak zvaný čistič na krbové skla (krbyk) zatím jsme tím cistil chladič výfukových splodin a funguje úžasně za pár euro a jsem zvědavý co udělá s tím dpf.

On older cars 400.000 km and up i mount the lower boost pipes with a little bit of soft tex 7 silicon . Yes its a b!tch to demount afterwards , but its a cheap & cheerful solution . If you have the time for it :) . Darkside development and wagner both make good intercoolers also for bmw .