I used Black RTV to seal the same hole for my MS271. Finally oils the chain properly!

Thanks, I learned a few things here. I’ll check my MS-291 and my pole saw because I have several to cut and process.

My bar looks like yours. Burnt!!! Had oiler replaced. New bar and burnt that one. I really think you found a simple solution. Thank you for posting. Love the saw just needs more oil

Thanks, hope that will fix the dry bar/chain I’ve had for a long time on my 291.

You are definitely a champion 🏆💪 with your experiment. It definitely works. Am definitely going to do it. Thankyou 👍✔️💯

Neat trick. I might try that.

Just bought a 271 at a garage sale for ten bucks with five chains, oil, case and extras. The guy said it was broken and had taken stuff apart. Home it came and got a degreasing. Saw turned out to very clean and little used. Four or five pulls and it screamed to life minus bar and chain. I noticed the bar tip was blackend from heat and sprocket had no teeth above the bar and was frozen solid. Also noticed not all chains were the same. I put a new Rollomatic bar and chain on. Started a test run but also noticed that not much oil was present. I gave your hack a go and it is much better but still wished for a more oily mess. Think I'll stick with my old 80's saws

thank you for making this video. I have had the same issue out of my brand new 271 I’ve only used it twice and both times smoked the bar. They warranty swapped out the worm gear and the oil pick up to try to correct it. My only question is, did the O-ring stay in place and is it still working?

My new ms271 has the same issue. I have two gallons of fuel through it, and the bar is blue from heat and the chain dry. Good video im going to see if i can get it warranty.

I think you've hit the nail on the head with this one. I ordered an Oregon replacement bar for my Stihl MS271 and the tensioning hole does not intersect the chain groove in this new bar. That the same thing you've accomplished with your O-ring mod. I'm gonna JB weld both those areas on my old Stihl bar, but still recommend the upgrade to Oregon.

Excellent troubleshooting there! Been looking for a solution on this family for a while. It would be great to know what size you used.

I have the exact same issue with my 271. Have changed the pump, cleared lines, etc. I've had new chains stretch to far to use with only a few sharpens on them - pretty frustrating. I'm gonna try this trick. Thanks!

interesting , good stuff

Wow unbelievable

Have you cleaned out the bar track where the bar oil goes in at. I've had my 271 for 14 years and still on the original bar and it doesn't look like that. Another thing it can be is if your chain isn't sharp it will burn off the bar oil cause the chain is getting hot from not cutting the way it should.

I think you're working with the wrong "hole" from what I'm seeing....you're in the adjuster pin hole. I believe the oiler hole for these bars is the smaller hole in front of and slightly above the adjuster pin hole(s). The oiler holes are obviously a bit smaller because they conform the the height of the oiler channel in the case. If you take a good look at the bar where the actual oiler holes are, you should see a faint witness "oval" more or less imprinted on the bar, which, over time is a result of the bar being sandwiched tight against the horizontal oil pump channel in the case. Bottom line: try to get those smaller holes cleaned/unblocked. If you really want to bump oil flow a bit, chamfer the oiler holes at a slight angle (look at any Sugihara bar for reference). If you're unsatisfied with that, pull the pump and slightly trim the corner of the pump case shoulder that limits the clockwise turning of the adjuster screw. A millimeter here will do...perhaps getting another 1/16th of a turn's worth. I used a Dremel with one of their cut-off wheels (one pass). My ported '94 029 oils a 20" bar pretty good with these changes. It's very noticeable. Good luck!

I have the same problem, have had to sharpen blade too many times dulls fast. Do you know if a different bar would have the same problem?

Just curious, where did you find the o-ring? I'm having the same issue. Unfortunately, I didn't inherit my father's mechanical genes.

What type of bar oil are ya using? Ive noticed poor performance out of the Stihl orange jug lately

Might have been a defect in the bar. Did you try flipping the bar over an see if it had the same issue on the other side?

I have a 261 C that just developed a bar oiling problem. I cleaned the saw good this morning and noticed it wasn’t throwing any oil off the front of the bar/chain now. I was thinking it might have developed this problem after the chain came off and the catcher caught it slightly damaging the inner bar guide/gasket if that’s what you call it. Anyway this inner bar guide is a piece of stamped sheet metal and it is sandwiched in between the bar and the saw body. The oil is supposed to flow through this piece of stamped steel and into the bar. If it’s slightly tweaked at all, being thin metal I’m guessing it could allow oil to leak to the bottom of the saw instead of going into the chain track. On a side note: For more oil flow into the track: I have a milling machine and I made the hole into an elongated slot on my Husqvarna, it worked like a charm but it’s really hard to start after it’s been running.

I have same saw same problem except mine you can't see any oil being thrown out

Why not just use a thinner winter oil year around

If you were cutting in cold weather cut your lube by 10% with kerosene or diesel. Also there may a higher output oiler for it.

My ms271 has been a disappointment. Quality is not there.

Is that an oil ressistenr o ring, pretty sure most are not.

I have an MS271. I am very disappointed with that saw in every way. I really can't use it for much of anything. It looks pretty sitting on the shelf, but that's about it. And it won't oil the chain worth a flip.

I don't think the Govt. wants them to oil very much as a way to reduce pollution, so NO extra oil.

just a few reasons your having issues with your saw , the oil hole is plugged, you didnt add oil at some point to turn bar blue. cutting stumps will suck the oil away from the bar and make it run dry, dull chain will turn the bar blue , there is sawdust and debris between the bar and the saw housing causing the oil to not enter the port and run into the adjustment hole. make sure you worm gear is engaged with the clutch drum , I also have a 251, 261another new 271,391 ive cut 300 cord with my 271 with no issues,

Think a minute, you'd get the same amount of oil if you'd put the cover on it. The cover is over that hole.

This “fix” makes no sense at all, and it’s not doing anything. You put an O-ring around the tensioner hole which is unrelated to oiling. When you put the bar on to test the oiler it dripped down because you didn’t have a chain on it. Oil only goes into the channel when there is a chain because the movement of the spinning chain draws oil into the channel. Without this the oil would just drip down because there’s no force to guide the oil into the channel. If your bar is getting too hot you need to do one of 3 things: 1) Clean the gunk out of the channel of your bar (scraping your bar is required maintenance) 2) Unclog your oiler hole (small hole above the large tensioner hole) 3) Loosen your chain (a tight chain creates more friction hence more heat. When you set the tension on your chain do it a little looser that you actually want it, because when you tighten down the bar nuts the chain get a little bit tighter)