Thanks 🙏🏽 my bro designed and put that together

I agree!

glad you've found them helpful

It's quite a skill once you get the hang of it. What I really liked about this video is he realized that his lanyard was tangled in with the rigging and he corrected it, which was a great example to show that every climber, no matter how experienced, needs to double check everything before making the final cut. As he said, if you make sure it will hit below your feet and you're securely tied in, you have nothing to worry about. Just have fun and enjoy the ride!

I’ll have a video about it coming soon :)

My secret is that I don’t climbs with much on my harness, i just have the groundie tie it all on when I’m ready for it :)

@@Stridertrees Specifically I am interested in the long sling on your right side. Is it wrapped in a daisy chain or similar for quick release?

@@justinjones9255 a daisy chain is a quick release

How big of a piece can you drop with that set up?

@@aaronlauer8378 Err to the side of caution. I can't really say how much. However, I will say I snapped a biner and a sling in a girth hitch configuration on separate occasions. Both times were large stem pieces. I would use this setup for limb pieces that aren't going to shock load it too heavily. Also, care using this setup, you're biner could end up side loading and they are much less strong that way.

Regards from Ecuador 🇪🇨

no I usually leave the knots on the bridge in place

It’s very much unsafe to be climbing without anyone else around. The likelihood of dropping a branch on your climb line is high, not to mention the fact that without someone to untie the rigged branches it makes for a lot of climbing.

That being said it can be useful to know how to send rig a branch down on your own in case the groundsmen is off doing something else at that moment but will return shortly. (And I do have a video coming for that ;) )

It’s definitely unsafe. Thanks for the quick response. I’ve seen some videos of guys using rope wrench’s for added friction in the canopy and lowering them themselves but not a real explanation of what they are doing. Looking forward to the video.

Climbing arborist shows a double block rigging system that uses a pully on the piece, so the doubled line can be untied from the top, by the cut after the piece is on the ground and then pulled out of the pulley and reset. no up and down for the climber. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qcdijLlm3tKrm2w.html

@@murphy4trees yes that’s a sort of double whip tackle, but you’d still have to retrieve the block on the piece on the ground. Unless maybe you were using a bunch of speed line slings or something similar but eventually something would have to be retrieved.

I use 5ah and 6ah batteries on my 36v Makita saws. Their's a big difference in run time between the 5ah and the 6ah.

I use the 5ah ones and couldn’t imagine going any smaller, I’ll usually change batteries once or twice on a removal or between prunes just in case. That saw can really eat through some power

Do you have a video of some knot testing to failure that corroborates what you are saying about the half-hitch. I’d like to see that if it’s there, I have good reason to believe that my method is stronger but I’d be happy to see otherwise, because a simple running bowline is easier to tie.

@@Stridertrees It's been well established within the lexicon. Double up your bowline and use it without the half hitch or the marl for peak loads.

Contrary to popular belief, double rings do not have a better bend radius than a single ring. They do have more mass which helps with heat dissipation, but that's about the only benefit they offer.

@@zaccheus you might have to bring some sort of documented proof on that claim. As everywhere I look to find anything about that concept it says only use single rings as a redirect. Wesspur sent me their newest single ring and I will admit it is quite beefier than any single I've had in my hand so there might be something to it. Although, for the time being, when in use, the double rings will still be on my terminal end.

@@kenbiggs7976 Yeah, of course. Samson suggests in several places in their literature that braided rope should never see a bend tighter than three times the diameter of the rope around static surfaces that create more than a 10° bend in the rope. They recommend a ratio of 5:1 where possible. Over a sheave they recommend an 8:1 ratio for braided rope and a 10:1 ratio for three strand rope. There aren't any blocks in the arborist industry made to those specifications. The closest I have found is the big yellow ISC block with a 4 5/8" sheave with a 5/8" rope in it which yields a 7.4:1 ratio. Double rings have the exact same bend radius as a single ring. The bend is just broken up into two halves; one half of the bend on each ring. Instead of one 180° bend you have two 90° bends. Both of which are still less than the recommended 3:1 ratio for most rope/ring combinations. There is one exception I know of and that is the bend-right ring which is wide enough to support a 4.5:1 ratio on 1/2" rope, 4:1 ratio on a 9/16" rope, a 3.6:1 ratio on 5/8" rope and a 3:1 ratio on 3/4" rope. All of the samson information I referenced can be seen here on page 6/8: www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.samsonrope.com/docs/default-source/default-document-library/warning-insert.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjx9MLLtOH7AhWGlGoFHdIkC-UQFnoECBUQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3iist9WrLluk8dghuIHFED

@@zaccheus thanks for the breakdown. Makes much more sense now. I appreciate your knowledge and understanding greatly.

@@kenbiggs7976 No problem! Thanks for challenging me with your comments! There isn't a real authority on the use of rings. Folks have been using them for awhile now with success.

Side cuts? Why? Sounds dangerous to me.

That’s some fancy stuff there, probably save that for a more advanced skills series ;)

It was, but better too big than too small. It's a demo, so....

Belay out