Leaving gaps between soviet tank's armor plates is just historically accurate

Wow Jingles, you're really embracing this modeling gig. You've even made a 1/1 scale full ashtray with realistic cigarette butts. Amazing.

because of course, in any diorama With a stronk KV-2, someone needs to go to gulag

I was legitimately waiting for you to randomly yell out, "IDLER WHEEL," at some point in the video. Grinned like an idiot when you did.

Videos like this are a MASSIVE mental break from our chaotic lives filled with anxiety. I am so grateful! Thanks Mr Jingles

That new intro picture is surprisingly cute, especially Akitsuki ^^

Good choice on the Iwata airbrush. One thing you REALLY need to add to your airbrush rig though, is an air TANK. You drastically reduce the amount of time your compressor needs to run when using a reservoir tank. This saves considerable wear and tear on the compressor, and gives you better pressure control and a LOT less moisture in your air lines. I use a 1 gallon Viair tank with my Iwata compressor. It drastically reduces the amount of time your compressor is running during a session. You need a tank with 4 apertures. One for your input line, one for your output line, one for a pressure relief valve, and one on the bottom as a moisture drain. Between the tank and all the fittings, you're looking at less than 70 quid. I went a step further and mounted the tank on a large wooden cutting board with the compressor sitting next to it. I put 4 casters on the bottom of the board, and I have a VERY handy rig for my airbrushing needs.

Jingles, it's a soviet tank: it's supposed to have gaps, missing parts and the odd quickfix to ensure rapid manufacturing.

I mean, can you call it a KV2 if you don't have a display that's 50 meters wide IRL with the KV2 performing a ramp jump on one side and a capitalist tank exploding from being truck by the KV2's hand of Stalin on the other?

Good Morning, Mr. Jingles. I built this tank model from the Trumpeter folks. Very solid and detailed build that was used as a paint research model for the RC 1/16 version. I've built Zvezda in 1/72 scale and while a decent tank can be produced, more effort is definitely required. Nice work there, sir.

Hey Jingles. Although not a model builder myself. I have a friend that I've gleaned a few tips from over the years, watching how he builds things. Your tow cable problem is easily solved by NOT using the provided cabling. Instead, you use thread or string of the right diameter and place your shackles in place. Then glue the thread into the shackle end (usually by boring a small divot into the shackle before gluing it into place). Once you have one end firmly in place, just thread (oh, just realized a pun here) the 'cable' as needed, and then clip it off to the right length and glue to the other end's shackle (like the ones on the tow cable ring mounts). Another 'pro tip' is using thin gauze, soaked in white glue (here in America, Elmers Glue), so that it is pliable. From there it is simple to lay over the vehicle like a tarp, complete with folds, creases, dragging ends, etc. For more 'realism' , you can add lengths of thread as the 'hold down ropes', both anchored to stakes in the ground, vehicle mountings, or left hanging as if the crew had not yet got around to tying things off yet. As for that frontal armor plate... You could use very thin plastic sheet stock (available from most model hobby stores in A sized sheets), and using paper, make a 'template' of the area and it's various bits sticking out. Transfer the paper to the plastic sheet, cut, file, and trim as necessary to make it fit on the vehicle... then add a thin line of super glue, which will paint up to look like welding lines alone the edges of the armor plate (as if the armor were added in the field as an upgrade). Just a few hints, Speaking, Frank-ly

Looking good, jingles! Keep it up! Never mind the mistakes, just build the model that makes you happy. =) I'm also pleased you got yourself an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS! It's the airbrush i reach for 95% of the time! Enjoy!

Now that you have the KV2, first off where is the Soviet wood log? Second off, TOG 2?

Great job Jingles - my daily dose of avuncular ramblings always gratefully received. If my secondary school Russian hasn't deserted me (haven't used it for 28 years), the decal translation is "For the Motherland!" - very evocative/appropriate. Looking forward to the final diorama.

am I the only one who noticed how full that ash tray is

I'm learning a lot from this series. I built a lot of models 20 years ago, and began again recently. My first search was for some military land rovers. I'm building a doctor who scene. Yes, I love the show. Tom Baker and Sylvester McCoy were long time favorites

I guess the internals are included for people who want to make cutouts.

Thank you! I'm building this atm, and I nearly had a heart attack when I realised the track problem 😅 but now I'm past that point! What a tank to pic for my first one

I made a 1/35 model of a KV-2, Tamiya's version. I ended up sanding my original (hand) paint job off because I wanted a more realistic paint job. Now it is up on a shelf in Soviet green with dirt effects added. Though my favorite was Trumpeter's KV-1E. I know on yesterday's Mingles with Jingles you mentioned who would want to make a detailed interior because you can't see it. I know I did it because I liked making little details and making it seem more realistic and "complete". I panted the full interior of a T-44M, even had to paint the little fire extinguishers. I also did the full interior of a Pz 38(t) and M3 Stuart. I stopped modeling 2 years ago, but still enjoy seeing my more successful ones.

Admiral Jingles from WOW reviews to armor modeling. A well rounded fellow. Keep on expanding your horizons. Love your reviews and now armor builds. That road wheel just put some mud on it. All a round a good build. Its works for me!

this vid is stronker than even the stronkest of stronk youtube vids

just started airbrushing myself, love it I've had 3, from inexpensive to expensive and the one I love is the Iwata Nano, and its inexpensive and very simple. Good luck w the painting

Gods Jingles! You've got more butts in that ashtray than I smoked in a WEEK! Even at my 'worst', a 25 pack would still last a good 3 days!

I built the 1/35 scale Tamiya model, and it fit together quite well. Also, the tracks were silver-gray rubber, and were easy to fit. I've always preferred the Tamiya models, though there are many really good manufacturers at this scale.

Lovely work bud! If you're unsure about the chipping technique, get a piece of plastic card (or and piece of plastic that will take paint) and give it a test run before mucking up your model. I will say that it is a really straightforward and easy way to get chipped paint. I've used it for years on 40k vehicles and various minis. I think you'll like it. Depending on what kind of weathering you want, you might try spraying different shades of brown (typically dark to light orange or red browns) in different spots so your rust isn't a uniform color. Can't wait to see the next one! Thank you for sharing this!

Just great Jingles, now you have renewed my interst in playing my KV2s (yes I have BOTH of them) The amount of dissidents sent sacrificed to Stalin is your fault Jingles I hope you are happy with yourself

My air compressor is made from a motor I pulled out from an old fridge and two bottles of coca-cola all connected by a tube. One of the bottles has a pressure valve in the cap that keeps the pressure at the right level. Litterally cost me the price of 4 liters of coke (which I drank), one trip to the scrap yard and one trip to the hardware store where i bought the tube and the valve. It is incredibly quiet and works just as good as any other modelling air compressor.

Hi Jingles. I am a really big fan of your channel and have watched every video you have put up. Am really enjoying this series as I am a keen modeler and you may well be interested in my channel. I'm not a great builder but I do kit reviews and build projects on models of all kinds. Foreign kits often make this mistake in instructions as not everything is transposed into english and they also forget to include stuff in the plans. I remember putting a SU-85 TD together and the instructions told me to put the tank body on backwards. Also a good tip for length and link tracks is to build and paint the kit and the tracks separately and then marry them up as an afterthought towards the end. It's the same with individual track link builds (Build them as lengths to fit the road wheel stretches and then put the individual links around the Idler and drive sprockets) anyways you look like your having some fun and that's what is the most important thing, I think Lenin cat would approve your work too Are you going to get a Chieftain, I think that would be a very personable build for you as you have demonstrated a certain degree of knowledge on that tank from your previous videos. Anyway welcome to the hobby and I'm impressed with your results after such a short time. PS Airbrushes hate me and they always mis-behave for me so I just use brushes!!! Keep these vids coming John

The way those tracks were done seems mostly like how the tracks on some of the Space Marine vehicles were done, just that the return part wasn’t modelled thanks to being hidden by the hull. But it was individual tracks on the main sprockets and then varying lengths of solid tracks for the underside and the bits where the tracks come down on and lift up from the ground.

Tips from an old modler. If you don't want to spend hours, and hours on the ad infinitum track sets look to see if someone puts out a metal track kit that comes fully assembled. Pricey yes, but what is your time worth? If you had some model air white you could have mixed a lighter tone of green but you already put the decals on. Get some 2 part putty so you can roll it into thin "snakes" to press in those gaps. Get a rubber sculpting tool to help make them look like welds. Start watching Tested as well. It's Adam Savage's channel (from Mythbusters). He shows a lot of modeling techniques and tools that he used when working at Industrial Light And Magic.

Sorry Jingles, that one wheel being different stands out and irritates the heck outta me, hahaha. That being said, you've totally got me back into modeling and painting. Love this series of vids you got going, keep 'em coming, cheers!

Great video mate

I have build one of these years ago, and converted it into a W40k Ragnarok, at that time they still had rubber tracks.

Haven't watched your channel in years because my interests moved away from wows/wot. But this, this series, i think i'll be back for. Very entertaining.

For some reason that first track was super familiar when it started playing. Around the time where Jingles remembered the term 'Idler Wheel' I got it - it's been used a few times by the lads of Project Binky, manufacturing their demented turbo 4WD Mini. I am amused that the panel fit of the model is only slightly better than was managed by British Leyland back when they were assembling their Mini.

I love the Zvezda model kits. Good quality kits!

It`s cool seeing you get into the scale tanks . It won`t be long until you are doing multi-layer camo and getting into the photo etch parts .

You can jerry rig a mini sander by cutting the bristles off a cheap round headed electric toothbrush and attach a small bit of sandpaper in their place. Keep up the model vids, they are a strangely relaxing interlude between shit getting blown up.

Hey, Jingles! Idea for ya. Been many years since I built a model, and love painting miniatures. There are plenty of tricks to employ while you work so you can keep your main piece safe while testing ideas. Keep the pieces from the kit that you would normally throw out so you can use them for testing painting, techniques and ideas. Tools, mud, or a lounging crew can hide the buggered wheel. Love watching these; can't wait to see what you do next. Oh, some clay sculpting tools can be used to apply modelling putty with minimal effort and much less sanding later.

Really enjoying this reminds me of when I was about 12 trying to build models.

I think its safe to say that judging just by the amount of things bought by Jingles, he got hooked :)

This is a complete polar opposite hobby from my own, but fuck me this is satisfying to watch, keep up the good work!

Good GOD!!! That's a Beautiful Kv2

The paint color you refer to at 20:28 is actually a railroad color. Once the US got involved with the Russians, the US sent them spare tins of "Pullman Green". This was a color that was used for american coaches before the war. B&O green is also a very similar color, as it was specifically meant to match pullman green.

Jingles, that is the correct paint. The Soviets changed to 4BO in 1938. The problem is that the paint formula is based on percentages of the various pigments, but the quantities of each pigment can vary. The formula is 40-60% yellow ochre, 15-20% zinc chromate, 10% ultramarine and 10-20% white. So, there's a range of colors that would fit the formula, but would all be different.

Zvezda and Tamiya are my favorite model manufacturers. Currently finishing work on a 1:35 StuG IV. This KV-2 is next on my list, along with an IS-2. Most relaxing hobby ever :) So Jingles, what will your next project be? Perhaps a Tiger? :)

the gaps just make it more historically accurate

Jingles, I am very pleased to see that you have discovered Vallejo Paints for your Modeling Needs. I'm pretty sure you will agree that they are cheaper and much more suited for these Types of Models than GW Paints ;)

JIngles if you're planning to do the muzzle end, take some tempera acryllic paint, squirt a bit onto a piece of glossy paper, take a piece of slightly oist soft foam, kinda dip it in and then apply the black to the gun like you were painting in a stippling motion. That way it leaves a very cool looking hard texture that a real gun barrel would have from the remaining powder and other debris. You can apply rust spots this way too, adds a lot of texture to them that would be hard to get otherwise.

For my first airbrush I used a small truck tyre with a regulator for air. Cheap, and if you get it over 100 psi it lasts a few hours too. Then either roll it to the local garage, or get the foot pump out. 🙂

I remember assembling those tracks myself, it was very challenging, but it's really worth it. Never again :D

Jingles building a KV-2 with a spanking new airbrush - sweet!

Keep up the good work! So, fun fact: the Germans used red primer, the Russians used 4BO Russian Green which was formulated to not require a primer. 4BO as a color was initially used in 1941 so it’s entirely conceivable that a large number of KV tanks were factory painted this color! I’ll be in the salt mine if you need me.

Up at 4:12 AM and not even caffeinated. No idea why. But this is the earliest I have ever been to a Jingles video.

10:20 I'm half wondering if that actually happened in real life. "Hey Comrade Igor, you installed the wheel on backward." "It still runs, Comrade Dmitry. We need 100 by this Friday."

1945hours in Oz and Jingles message appears in my email in-box.... happy times.

Jingles small tip - when you have been painting turret you could put it on wooden stick and have it fixed with Faber-Castell Tack-IT rubber,not touching it by hands

Another airbrushing tip: Wear a dust mask, or some other form of respiratory protection. BTW the hairspray chipping works great! It was a great way to show wear on a solid white winter whitewash camoflage.

I always thought Jingles would have hairy knuckles, learn something new every day!

Thanks Jingles.

Zevezda make their kits a bit like the russians made their tanks back in the day, lots of things don’t fit or play out as they do in the instructions. They take a bit more of a think and problem solving to get right. My favourite brand tamiya is known for its kits to basically fall together. Parts are keyed and don’t fit in if its the wrong way around. There are exeptions to this rule like the early tamiya kits and its a bit tricky to tell which tamiya kits are new and which are old. I usually determine their age by scalemates .Com it shows you a full history of the moulds and if they have been updated, reboxed ect. Love that your enjoying the hobby jingles, good luck with the dio!

With all these dioramas you'ere making we're going to need an updated mancave video series.

In future diorama planning, you may want to display the vehicle in a dynamic posture and not want to glue the road wheel arms in a flat arrangement if the terrain you are modeling is uneven. The road wheels would deflect at varying degrees to conform with the irregularities of the ground. This will also give the impression of the weight of the vehicle. On this KV-2, if it has lasted 'til 1944 (as the German POWs suggest), unless it was a showpiece in Red Square before that, it would show damage/dings/dents in the fenders, mud guards, etc. the hatches and doors would have chipping on them and not just around the openings. The tow cables would chafe the paint where they are attached to the hull, also. The road wheels, which would have a layer of rubber on them, would show chunking and wear as rocks and debris get caught in them, and as you did on the Lee, mud would accumulate in the crevices of the hull along the tracks. You could also try and create some "sag" into the tracks as this is a natural occurrence. Any tanker / mech infantryman would remember having to routinely check the track tension on their vehicles especially after prolonged rough terrain operations.

Nice job Jingles

Love this vid

The point being for all that extra stuff, is if you wanted to build a "destroyed" version of the KV2, turret blown off etc.

Jingles, I am going to suggest a technique to you, First apply some artist oil paint to corrugated cardboard and mix it to a shade lighter than your base coat, the cardboard will absorb a lot of the oil from oil paint, then apply the paint like a dry brush, you have a lot of time to work it into the surfaces, if you screw it up it can wipe off and the effect is wonderful there are lots of oil paint techniques like washes filters, highlights ext, I'll suggest some reference books that you will want to add to your library as well that describe these and many other advanced techniques First is F.A.Q vol 1 nad 2 by Mig Jimenez, next is Adam's Armour modeling guide by Adam Wilder vol 1 and 2, and finally Tank Art vol 1 and 2 by Michael Rinaldi

Very nice!!

Having an awful fit and gaps in the hull actually makes it more historically accurate

love that you're getting into model making jingles! keep it up!! cant wait to see the finished diorama =) though i think you overspent on the compressor. i picked mine up from a German company WilTec who sells airbrush compressors. If I recall correctly I paid in total(shipping, import fee) about 120 Swiss francs for the compressor i chose. its a bit louder than yours but definitely much much quieter than the cheap compressor you were talking about. I'm not saying any of this to make you feel bad about your purchase , just letting your viewers who might be looking to get into airbrushing know that there are cheaper options cause you kinda made it seem like its either very loud/cheap workshop compressor or expensive/quiet airbrush compressor, but there are cheap airbrush compressor. looking forward to next weeks vid

Were is the mighty TOOOOOOOOG model

Really nice to see you branching out, hope you do a ship model sometime.

would recommend using sub assemblies when you are airbrushing, helps you paint different sections different colours and means you can get at areas that you wouldn't be able to if everything is glued together.

thats a nice filled ashtray you got there my dearest gnome overlord

The Idler Wheel is at the opposite end to the Drive Sprocket (the one with notches) and for a KV-2 the drive sprocket is at the rear.

Give the smokes away Jingles!! I smoked for 43 years and gave them the flick!! Just do it!!

The Zvezda model kits are extremely popular here in Russia, I used to own a T-34/76 model from them.

Very informative.

If I may offer a word of advice re link and link tracks. First, make up the idler and drive sprockets, but don’t glue then into the hull, then make up the tracks, laying them out flat, put on the cement and just let it set up, so that the pieces are still flexible but able to be moved in one piece, then using the still loose sprocket and idler shape the tracks around them and the road wheels. By doing this you’ll adapt the tracks to the actual contours of the model, doing it by eye you’re liable to get the angle wrong. Also if you’re painting with an airbrush, don’t whatever you do, glue the tracks on until after painting, leave the last link join dry so you can slip them on and off appropriately.

Ive learned more about model detailing in the last 3 months from Jayztwocents and now Jingles than i thought possible from a Tech channel and a Gaming channel - Coincidentally, they both seem to like that bloody boat game.

KV-2? Instant thumbs up!

Those "weird choices" about the periscopes and MG's are for modelling nerds like me back in the days I used to be one. It makes life easier when you want to build the interior or build the tank with it's turret blown off. While this doesn't apply to 99% of all build projects, people constantly moan about no interior parts in kit-reviews so I guess that's why manufacturers provide these.

Nice progression, Jingles! I must say, it looks quite nice. I think that buying an airbrush was a nice addition to your toolkit, and it can save you a lot of time and yield some impressive results. Just one thing that I want to point out: - For your health & safety, please put that x-acto knife or whatever it's called in English away! I was kinda anxious when I saw you opening those plastic bags with the knife in your hand. It's like an injury waiting to happen, and these things, well, they cut pretty deep.

Love the opening graphic.

Might want to grab some precision reverse tweezers. They hold closed on the item themselves and are fairly cheap too. I got a set of 3 shapes in stainless steel with ceramic tips for only $16 (£12.5)

[Heavy Breathing]

Jingles is the old dog that’s kinda scared of new tricks 😂

Awesome!

Jingles is gonna come back to this KV-2 and see Katyusha siting on top of it :P

I built the old one from Zvezda with the horrid rubber tracks. I’ll be getting this new one as I’ve learned a lot of techniques since then. I have an expensive King Tiger kit which I bought the fabulous Friulmetal tracks for but I wouldn’t want to spend that much on a Zvezda kit.

Use the miliput and wet paintbrush to smooth it out... Way better than sanding. Also miliput can be thinned and applied with paintbrush. Great stuff!

Jingles. You also need to rust and blacken the exhaust ports and I mean blacken. Remember Russian fuel was very low grade. The RR Merlin engine had to have additive to run on it. Looking forward to the Hairspray technique. Oh yes the big wheel at the other end of the tank is called the idler. How could you of all people forget that.

0:20 "the strongest of the stronkest tank the mighty mighty " me : Jingles? XD

Welcome to 1/35 modeling where parts that are modeled that make no sense. Zvezda got love the quality. Just in case anyone was paying attention the Miniart and Master Box are both based in Kiev, so this is the Stronkest of the Stronk, Comrade Stalin approves.

Jingles, be cautious on what kits you buy. If you thought the ammunition boxes were bad, try a Miniart T54-3. Stay with brands like Tamiya, Academy, Zvezda and BANDAI for models, until you feel more comfortable. Then branch out from there. Airbrushing isn't easy either, but just remember to keep it clean, REALLY clean. You don't know clean until you buy an airbrush....

That compressor sounds like a dying IBM hard drive. Probably not quite accurate, but it was close enough to remind me of that time I lost a semester computer science project to the Click of Death. I was able to rewrite it from scratch, but that sure was traumatic.

i believe the main reason why there's extra details on weapons where it really isnt necessary is mainly for kitbashing and padding out build time

JINGLES! You missed the most interesting part out; the weathering!

I had a Zvezda M48A2. My first kit. My biggest problem was that the connection for the drive sprockets was tenuous. Apart from that, I loved it, and I'd still have it to this day if it weren't for a salty cat.

Again, Jingles. VENERABLE! DREADNOUGHT! You could call it mini-jingles.