So killer that you showed the whole setup from the top of the climb through multiple transitions. So many other videos start in the middle after the setup has actually taken place. Thanks!
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
Nice, glad you found it helpful
@mountainmystic14 сағат бұрын
Excellent video and climb! The Winds are an amazing place. I like your attention to detail and being redundant at all times. Thanks for posting.
@fabian54224 ай бұрын
I like how Clinton is always tied in with two points of contact! Nice work from his side
@razvanrazvan3501 Жыл бұрын
One of the most complete multipitch rapel videos!
@logiconabstractions65962 жыл бұрын
Agree with a lot of that. Things that should stand out to all imo: 1 - always weight-test a new system(pas, rap) before removing the backup from it. How many people fell off & died due to, say, a single strand being actually clipped. None of those would have happened with a simple weight-test while still being leashed on. 2 - Avoid leave the atc/belay device hanging without being clipped to something. I've dropped it once - won't do it again. 3 - Taking the extra time to coild stuff/properly manage ropes. A rope mess / stuck rope takes forever to sort out. Always wortwhile to do it well, but do it once.
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
Agree 100%
@joshdowns6095 Жыл бұрын
To add to this, MAKE SURE TO TAKE THE STOPPER KNOT OUT OF THE ROPE BEFORE PULLING IT!!! AND RETIE IT!!
@karolkucharski680111 ай бұрын
Re 1#. It's super important to test it. Also one remark from my side - I prefer to tie two strads together with a simple overhand knot rather than having two separate stoppers. It helps finding the perfect middle of the rope (if your mark has worn out etc) but also prevents from possibility of having one of the end being pulled by the weight of the rope way up to the anchor. Leaving the climber with a stuck rope. This can happen if your rappel distance is close to 1/2 of the rope.
@kalebking4622 жыл бұрын
Yet again another fantastic tutorial, but this was the best. It was like I was on the trip with you and Clinton
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
Thanks, glad you liked it!!! this one was definitely fun
@themountainknights Жыл бұрын
great watching it again. as a mountaineering instructor in India i could easily understand and relate to the demonstration. its always good to see and learn what is being done other parts of the world. Thanks for sharing.
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
Nice, where in India do you guide? or do you go up to Nepal?
@themountainknights Жыл бұрын
@@summitseekersexperience I guide in the Indian Himalayas mainly.
@erikpeterson4546 Жыл бұрын
Excellent video - for anyone new to this or watching to learn for the first time, the steps and processes in this video are standard procedure and excellent to follow in this environment. Much respect for a highly informative video. An aside to your conversation about keeping the carabiner or the rope on the ATC at all times - have you tried to simply rock the carabiner over onto the rope, clipping the strands without ever using your hand to open the gate? The only thing that opens the carabiner is the rope and it stays attached to the ATC at all times. Also for unclipping the ATC at the bottom, the two strands of the rope can be pulled away from the ATC and unclipped from the carabiner. This does require opening the gate of the biner with your fingers, however the ATC remains captured in the biner if something causes you to open your hand or swing your arm
@ian-wilson2 жыл бұрын
Looks sick! Tutorials on real rock are the best! 🙌🏽
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
For sure, I'm going to start trying to work a tutorial into each one of my climbing days.
@AnnhilateTheNihilist Жыл бұрын
This answered so many questions and I’m just watching it muted riding my exercise bike thanks 🙏
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
nice!
@chriskaplan6109 Жыл бұрын
Great video showing the whole process with lots of explanation. I like it.
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
for sure!
@mwwilkin2 жыл бұрын
Awesome video! What I been doing to avoid dropping the ATC. I would make the rope loops longer than the wire loop then hook my carabiner through it. So the ATC is never off the carabiner. If that makes sense for you
@GriffendorSLYTHERINАй бұрын
Perfect Video :) answered my last questiins that i had
@nicholasrockwell56532 жыл бұрын
Your best video to date. Thanks for making it.
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
for sure, thanks for the feedback!
@RMONINJA Жыл бұрын
Fantastic to see top to bottom! Great video, like all your others!
@shLSS4 ай бұрын
I would suggest to always setup your rapell system (atc + 3rd hand) while you both are at the rapell station so you can buddy check each other instead of tying in after your buddy has rapelled to the next anker. That's one of the advantages of an extended rapell setup that both climbers can tie in at the same time.
@johnbragg127 Жыл бұрын
Best vid yet love all your vids ,may I ask what would you do if stoppa knot was not untied when you pull the rope back through and you never had a spare rope.
@tobitest7259 Жыл бұрын
Thanks für your Videos. Great quality. I would like to see a Video about what to do when something goes wrong rappeling. E.g. your Rope gets stuck/ you forget to loosen your stopper knot when pulling the rope or you notice you did rappel to far. Thank you from Germany :)
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
For sure, I'll likely do one on a stuck rope soon. Here a technique you can do if you rappel past where you should be: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hr90lJN7ptGmmoE.html
@NullbYte-gk5jq9 ай бұрын
Thanks 😀. Beautiful scenery
@Deusex639 ай бұрын
Best videos for climbing!!! Very nice!!!!
@georgekousouris49002 жыл бұрын
Nice video as always! When rappeling with a gri-gri (by making a carabiner block) do you still suggest to add a third hand ? The grigri has a self-blocking functionality on its own.
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
Thanks George. No need to use a thirdhand with a gri gri. Although if you need to go hands free, make an overhand knot on the back side to prevent anything catastrophic if the gri gri fails.
@TheSeppentoni5 ай бұрын
11:47 Why only a stopper knot on one end? Shouldn't both ends have a stopper knot?
@freelancing_1012 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the awesome video!
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
For sure!!
@davidf6154 Жыл бұрын
Been into climbing for a while but because of work and life stuff getting in the way I haven’t been actually climbing yet in a gym to start then hopefully sport/trad. But I’m am great full for your videos. They get me psyched to climb an more importantly learn! Safety first! But I will be making it to the climbing gym in the next few weeks. So keep up the great work and thanks again for all the stoke! ✌️,❤️,respect from Boston,MA 🧗🏼🏄🏽♂️yeew!
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
Thanks1!
@chamonix46582 жыл бұрын
great video thanks from france!
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!! I need to get back over to Europe and do some climbing for sure.
@susan3707 Жыл бұрын
Excellent Tutorial
@Sierranite4 ай бұрын
18:45. You only put a stopper knot on one end of the rope. You didn’t put a stopper knot on the other end. Also clip gates at master points with wire facing into the rock face?
@timonix22 жыл бұрын
Oh wow what an amazing trip. I have to find some semi local multipitches. But my best guess is that anything this grand is probably at least a flight away. Inspiring
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
A lot of stuff this big, you have to fly, but go for it!
@apple11117 Жыл бұрын
you mentioned that having the teeth up on your atc when rapelling creates less friction, but wouldn't it still be the same about of friction being that the top of the rope (going back up to the anchor) still rubs against the top of the anchor
@macornman7 ай бұрын
Love the video, thanks. Absolute beginner here with a question. During the climbing phase, why did you end up with a top rope scenario around 5:22? My guess is that on the last pitch, rather than both climbing up and then having to rappel down, its easier if the first climber leads and then comes back down to top rope the other climber. Is that it?
@mattj69402 жыл бұрын
Awesome content! Please keep it up!
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
for sure
@szymonkrzyzan Жыл бұрын
You shouldn't hold your stopper knot in your hand 13:56 while rappelling. Grab the rope above it and push it down. If you lose control your instinct will be to squeeze your hand, rendering the stopper knot useless. At least that's what I've been thought
@andywind421311 ай бұрын
Are you referring to the 3rd hand / prusik? (Different than a stopper knot.) I've never heard that but I suppose it makes sense.
@themountainknights Жыл бұрын
Awesome tutorial 👍
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
Thanks!!!
@obscurelines10 ай бұрын
Recently had a double rappel in the dark. Second anchor almost impossible to find. It was pretty bad. Two 70mm tied together for length. Four of us stuck on the summit for hours. So much learning. Chiefly that a long multi is an expedition not a sporting activity and should be treated as such. Also if you are rappelling in the near dark and you know there are teams below you, then by god mark the anchors somehow. I intend in future to have two headtorches, one I can attach to an anchor if I think someone will need to find it in the dark.
@snekhai Жыл бұрын
A good idea is to secure the rope at the bottom station, while the last person is repelling. More important on poor stations.
@reksaiorn-od7vj Жыл бұрын
Hi awesome video. One big question is what can I do if the rope gets stuck with something for example a tree branch after I finished rappelling when I’m pulling the rope . Or if I forgot to take the knot out. What are my options there ? Thanks for the video very informative
@reksaiorn-od7vj Жыл бұрын
@summitseekers
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
First I’d try to set up a 3:1 haul and pull it. Second would be to climb up on lead with the other end of the rope… last option would be ascend the rope (if you pulled hard with the haul and the rope got really wedges)… which I would probably not feel comfortable with but could be situational.
@andywind421311 ай бұрын
Great content, thank you! The only thing I've never seen before and didn't understand is having the 2nd rapeller go on rappel at the same time above the leader. Is that for the purpose of checking one another? Just another point of attachment or what? Thanks!
@lejyonerxx Жыл бұрын
Why did not you use locked carabiners instead of biners when setting up the quad? Would not it be safer? Do you think biners are safe enough since the climber puts his weight on the master point just after the quad is set? Sorry if I said something wrong, I am not that familiar with the English climbing terminology.
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
nonlocking carabiners are safe enough in a system that is redundant. This would meet the standards that I've been trained on.
@davistenta97604 ай бұрын
What do you do if you forget to untie the stopper knot and pull the rope up? Call for help?
@SD-cm6if2 жыл бұрын
Amazing route! It’s not the 50 classic though, that’s Northeast Face. Great video!
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
Nice... we did the East Face as well (5.7+), it was pretty epic. The Northeast face was pretty much inaccessible due to snow (guess I'll have to go back).
@thomasdejonge85616 ай бұрын
I have Leander that your Master Point should always be with lockers or two non lockers in other gate directions on the two bolts
@PaoloCaglioLMT Жыл бұрын
Can you explain me why when you rappel first your partner has already is rappel device and 3rd hand attached to the rope above you (but not the other way around)? I feel like I don't like it: it's like you are rappelling from your partner instead of the anchors. Doesn't it put too much stress on the rope passing through your partner's ATC and on his ATC as well? Thank you 😊
@tybowman6946 Жыл бұрын
What size rope? Kinda looks like Beal Opera 8.5mm 60m, yes?
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
edelweiss 9.2... I don't remember the name off the top of my head but they only have one. Unicore though.
@gobdeep2 жыл бұрын
For somebody who doesn't climb in areas like this and is still learning, help a n00b. At 7:12, there are two anchors in the rocks and they look like they are bolted in. Does somebody climb up with a drill and affix those anchors to the rocks? How does this process work?
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
Hey John. Yes believe it or not, someone carried a drill of some kind this far into the back country and up that mountain to drill those bolts in. They typically will fill the void space with an epoxy as well. These bolts were in very good condition, they can definitely be in worse condition if they are not in a high traffic area.
@perolaheslandengen2592 Жыл бұрын
awesome video :)
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
Glad you liked it, get out there!!
@akaTheDevil Жыл бұрын
@Alpine to the Max says it's stupid to yell out "ROPE" before tossing it. Thoughts?
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
Stupid is a strong word. I just shout in case I don't see someone. Or I do saddle bags.
@rodrigoruiz976 Жыл бұрын
I don't get why use the quad when you can just clip directly to the bolt, since it's all temporary, you're not using them as anchors for rappeling.
@MichaelEverheartt Жыл бұрын
Question. Why make an anchor system and bring more stuff? Wouldn’t be ok to just connect in using your adjustable landyard? Thanks for any info 😃
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
You need to make the anchor system your clipping to redundant… there are many ways to do this with two bolts… one example was shown in this video.
@NeilStrongarms Жыл бұрын
It looks like Clinton is using two personal anchors, is that correct? The Camp Swing, as well as a yellow sling. Any reason in particular hes doing that?
@summitseekersexperience Жыл бұрын
He’s a scaredy cat
@alancarroll92242 жыл бұрын
The whole quad thing is so slow on an alpine route. All that time setting it up while still on rappel and preventing your partner from rappelling down to you. Also, not sure why you’re not coiling the rope as you’re pulling your end through the rings. You pulled it and stacked it, then had to coil it. Seems slow and unnecessary. Time adds up after a bunch of raps. …but thanks for posting a clear and informative video!
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Alan... Curious as to what solution you would use at each bolted anchor station that would be faster than having pre-rigged quads?
@marcelorofer2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the great instructional video! Quick question, why don't we use stopper knots on both ends when tossing the rope? Cheers
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
You probably just don't see it, but I do have a stopper knot on both ends. Always important to close the system completely.
@scottmarshallgilmore2 жыл бұрын
@@summitseekersexperience At around 11:35 it looks like the second half of the rope doesn't have a stopper knot?
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
@@scottmarshallgilmore Yeah, I took a double take at that too, but it was tied, just the way it was being held it was hard to see.
@scottmarshallgilmore2 жыл бұрын
@@summitseekersexperience You're totally right, you can see it at 11:45, it's just tied pretty far from the end. Worth obsessing over this detail, lol.
@luckyradhakeesoon5902 жыл бұрын
Getting up the route, was it a trad route or bolted route?
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
All trad including anchor stations.
@luckyradhakeesoon5902 жыл бұрын
@@summitseekersexperience what was the range of cams you guys used?
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
@@luckyradhakeesoon590 Had doubles 0.3-3.0 and singles at 0.1/0.2 which helped on the 5.8+ finger crack K crack (optional pitch).
@gratefuldylan8222 Жыл бұрын
What if you forget to untie your stopper knot before pulling your rope out from the previous pitch and pull it too high above you? Is there a way to get that end of the rope back down? Probably will never happen if you take your time but what if?
@erikpeterson4546 Жыл бұрын
Short answer: don't! But if you do, better hope the rap route descends a less-than-half-rope-length pitch that's within your ability. Then you can lead back up the pitch on the other side of the rope and clear it that way. However, if the rap route descends a harder route, or even a blank face that isn't a route (more common than you think) and you can't climb back up, especially if it's longer than half a rope, you're in trouble! I'll let the professionals decide whether or not to share with you a solution to that scenario!
@Malitesta11 ай бұрын
I noticed they only tied the stopper knot on one end. In the bright sun on a nice day with full visibility that’s probably not an issue. However in the dark ,frozen snowing cold , howling wind drowning out your uncoordinated yelling through chattering teeth,with fading to yellow or no head lamp (don’t ask how I know) it might be an issue if some how a wet rope slipped to uneven and the unknotted end went through your rappel device your third hand weighting only the knotted side pulling your entire rope through the rappel rings and probably saying farewell to your partner stranded at the rappel station assuming it happens so fast they’ll be unable to stop you before you leave pieces of yourself on your way to the base of the climb? Not that it doesn’t create other added mostly untying issues to deal with but it may prevent the unbalanced single knot oh $#y+ moment from happening. Instead of knotting one or both ends we usually knotted the bottom ends together in a figure 8 or overhand.forming a continuous loop. Yes the bigger combined knot can get stuck on or off route as it’s fed or tossed down. Considering all my partners and I are still here it was never a unmanageable situation. Also with or without the 3rd hand you can also clip your personal anchor into one rope as it’s knotted at both ends (if you’re using two ropes or a single) in a continuous loop and you won’t rappel off the end of your rope if you’re doing multiple free hanging rappels. So having to untie both ends of the bottom before you pull it through the rings at the top will prevent the knot from hitting the rappel station. Fun stuff happens when you go climbing so I can’t guarantee the unknotted end won’t million to one get stuck or tie itself into it’s own knot once it passes out of sight. On those occasions I’ve been known to begin reassessing by uttering some choice words and anchor in higher begin jumping out away to free the jam , re-climb, figure out, or self rescue how to get out of the escalating mini epic without calling for outside help. Hopefully you’ll manage and learn some useful stuff and maybe have some fun stories to tell years from now.
@SukinSzkot10 ай бұрын
The date of this video, please!
@lemmingsoutside2 жыл бұрын
Awesome video! Can you put a link to the route on mountain proj please 😊
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
Here's the big 5.7+ we did (and got off route): www.mountainproject.com/route/105827735/east-face-left-side-cracks Here's the shorter route featured in this video: www.mountainproject.com/route/105827746/south-buttress
@SD-cm6if2 жыл бұрын
Why use the quad when you can just clip your PAS to one of the two bolts? You can then use a sling or quickdraw to connect the bolts for redundancy. Saves you time so you don’t have to rig your quad up every rap, and also you’ll be able to fix your PAS higher and closer to the bolts instead of being low down on your quad
@rosy-rho2 жыл бұрын
I use a quad as well, mainly because it gives you so much extra space to work with. Fitting the rope through the rings, plus my tether, my backup tether, and my partner’s tether and backup… it sometimes ends up kind of a mess of carabiners. Using a quad just simplifies it. That’s the main reason. At least, the main reason I personally do it - for me, taking a few moments to clip a pre-rigged quad is well worth it.
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
One reason I don't typically do what you described above is because there can be some shockload potential if one of the bolts were to fail. The quickdraw is normally not the "perfect length" so I normally steer away from this technique. Additionally as mentioned, I do also like the extra real estate the quad gives and the fact that I can pre-rig makes it basically take no time.
@kevinmcdonough90972 жыл бұрын
@@summitseekersexperience I prefer going direct to bolt -> backup bolt/2nd direct -> "off rappel" as it's fewer steps. Importantly, fewer connection changes. For me, this simpler process avoids mistakes & outweighs a little shock potential. Mistakes worry me more than blown bolts, and clipping bolt (still "on rappel") -> setting the quad -> unclipping bolt -> clipping quad -> "off rappel" feels like more dice rolls. If the rock/bolt was iffy, I might find the backup shock risk more worrisome than I do on bomber granite. On the other hand, if you're climbing on mostly bolted belays and living off pre-tied quads, might be simpler to always stay either "on rope" or "on quad" and just consider the initial clip-in as a "backup" while the rap's hands-free. Then it's less about the steps and more about the simpler mental model.
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
@@kevinmcdonough9097 so do you mean basically having two PAS's and clipping directly to each bolt and then rapping off that? This would definitely work in single pitch, but how do you do this in multipitch rappelling and make room for your partner?
@ASNIV_2 жыл бұрын
Ya at most I connect the bolts with a draw for some redundancy and go in direct to a bolt. Setting up an anch at each station is too faffy for me.
@FlatOutFE2 жыл бұрын
How were the mosquitoes?
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
No mosquitos high up where we were camping. Down at Big Sandy... different story ;-)
@LevinSchild2 ай бұрын
why do it simpel when you can do it complicated?
@thedanishvikingpilgrim57533 ай бұрын
How Long was your rope
@summitseekersexperience3 ай бұрын
I think 70… you can do this rap route with a 60
@snekhai2 жыл бұрын
I do not like the guide-client set up, when both are sitting on the double ropes. I think in the long run, it's not the best.
@Sammykallday2 жыл бұрын
Stop putting the biners of your quad through the rap rings. Put them through the quick Links.
@Sammykallday2 жыл бұрын
Also don’t need “extra” friction on your ATC for 2 reasons. The first is you are using a third hand. The second is any rap over 25 meters the rope puts enough weight on the rope. The teeth are really there for belaying.
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
@@Sammykallday FYI, it's normal practice to put the biners on the rap rings because if you put them on the quick links then when you pass the rope through the rings, it's likely that you'll pass the rope through the biners too which can cause some issues potentially. In regards to the teeth, better for the friction to be on the ATC then wearing out my third hand.
@ianmcnulty42512 жыл бұрын
Just clip the quad (if you really need one) to the bolt hangers (and thread the rope under the biners) like Clinton does at 23:25.
@SH0EB0Y2 жыл бұрын
Neither of you guys are using an atc those are both reversos. Atc is black diamond specific. Doesn't really matter but my brain wouldn't let me not say something.
@summitseekersexperience2 жыл бұрын
Correct, collectively though, I've seen climbers call all tube devices ATCs... not sure if you see the same thing where you are.
@steventhaw3765 Жыл бұрын
For the most efficient, strongest, and safest tie a CLOVE HITCH AT ALL ANCHOR POINTS AND MASTER POINT! TIE STOPPER KNOTS AT ENDS OF STRANDS ON ALL RAPPELS! from rapping off ends of rope! Remember that knots close the system & weaken it by 50% ! The Clove Hitch is not a knot and keep the system open for adjustments!!!
@alexandersharp352 Жыл бұрын
bro please don't untie your rope like that. feed a bight through the rings and then tie your stopper on the bight. or better a clove on a draw on your harness. then you can untie your figure 8. this way your rope will be always secured to you so you can't drop it.