You will have fun as that’s a great project. It can get expensive as you have so many upgrade options available but it will be fun.

Thanks a ton Mark! I'm having fun with it and I have a few more mods to come. I can recommend the Clod 100% if you have space for it lol.

Totally agree! LOL

I have to agree, its a load of fun but it can get expensive fast, as you have so many options available.

Thanks 👍

Most welcome Cosmo lol 👍🏻

was about to say the same thing, thats exacttly what i did on my clod for 4x4x4, cost like 1 bux

These are great fun for sure.

I have some more carbon mod parts coming so I’ll make another video when I receive them. I don’t think my 6 channel trans will arrive anytime soon unfortunately as it’s coming from China but once it does I’ll do another update

LOL, things do get a bit OTT for sure lol.

@@RCKickschannel hahahaha 😊❤️

True , I'm at the point trying to figure out what kind of axel mounts I want for my servos and how I want to steer the rear, was thinking of the (bta) version of servo mounts , but I don't know . Any suggestions would be most appreciated, currently I have a bone stock Clod Buster black edition.

www.ukmonsters.co.uk/clodshop/clodshop.html

@@dave691974 JConcets just realeased a BTA kit that is designed for the stock setup.

I really like the Clod, it’s great fun. When I purchased it I wasn’t that fussed to be honest but after building and running it, it’s epic.

Coming soon!

@@RCKickschannel Great!

Yep the options are endless

Will do and yes the chassis needs shorted shocks or I need to mod the current set.

On the body? Car filler.

Steering upgrade is always first lol.

The one on the ESC

The guy who made them for me is in the video. If you look him up on Facebook you can send him a message.

I think I used some random Schumacher racing shocks I had already.

Details are in the video and the video description 👍🏻

Shocks are a bit too long for the chassis, its lifting the truck too high.

I will be upgrading the servo location in the next Clod video in 7-10 days so stay tuned.

The product quality is fantastic so no issues on that front. I would really love to get the top of the line Race Chassis kit on the show for an upgrade video but unfortunately its out of stock and I don't think he's making anymore :( I love my Razer 2.1 and it looks stunning on the truck, just make sure you find some good shocks to go with it that fit correctly and match the length spec.

Thanks! What length shocks are you using? I saw it uses 80-100mm shocks

Yep I think so.

Sorry can’t remember now, it was ages ago.

Yep I’ve been on the lookout for a Mega reversed. New one on eBay but it’s £££ over my budget.

Clod shop

I hope to swap out the chassis soon for an upgrade.

Chassis came from www.ukmonsters.co.uk/clodshop/clodshop.html Drop Ryan an email with all questions are you have many options available to you. email: ryancoombes@virginmedia.com and say hi from me if you contact him.

@@RCKickschannel oh ok great thanks so much!!

I think those are Dsservo 25kg, you can find them on banggood

Yep

Yep the motors run in the same direction.

@@RCKickschannel Hi Gavin, the front motor in the clod runs in reverse when you are going forwards, effectively making the timing retarded instead of advanced. Standard RS540 motors have 0 degree timing so this is no issue. You can check this, just hook a battery straight up to the motor wires using the standard polarity. Red>Yellow and Black>Green (Tamiya 540) Mod motors are advanced by rotating the endbell counter-clockwise from the centre(moves the brush positions to energise the winding earlier). You can get around this if the motor has no limiting tab(or the tab is easily trimmed off) for the timing adjustment by turning the endbell in the opposite direction(clockwise) from 0 degrees to match the rear motors' advancement. If those Mega Motors have timing advancement from stock, what will happen is high current draw as the advanced motor at the rear tries to rev higher and push the "retarded" motor up to speed, while the retarded motor tries to slow down the advanced motor. This may not be massively noticeable at first as the front of the truck will unload on acceleration and allow the front motor to rev up easier, however it will hold back top speed a bit and decrease battery life> I have 4 clods, a bullhead and 2 WR-01 dagger/twin detonators. they all have the same issue. Reverse timing the front motor works a treat. 2x Super Stock RZ's in a WR-01 is a hoot. Note: This cannot be done on racing "stock" brushed motors as the motor can has large flats on the sides deliberately to make this impossible.

@@leemollison7508 I was going to try 2 Trinity p2k's , your saying they won't work? Can't I just reverse the polarity of the front one?

@David Cotter Hi David, you can hook them up and run them, but the motor timing is dependent on the direction of rotation. I learned this the hard way when a LHS who specialised in racing and knew little about "Toys" like the Clod sold me two team brood epic 27 pro stock motors (fixed timing), it melted my MSC down after a few runs, and both motors were cooking hot, not to mention the short runtime and hot battery Standard rotation direction for Stock motors is CCW at the pinion end of the shaft, CW at the brush/endbell. If you look at a fixed timing stock motor(with flats on the can-epic 27 etc) axially from the endbell, the brush hoods are rotated 24 degrees CCW(into the direction of rotation) from perpendicular to the magnets(Zero degrees) - this advances the energisation of the windings in relation to the magnets. In order to match the timing on a motor running reverse polarity (running CW at the pinion/CCW at the brush end) the brush hood positions would need to be rotated 24 degrees CW from perpendicular to the magnets, Unfortunately due to the flats locking the endbell position, the angle on stock motors is always 24 degrees CCW, so turning the endbell 180 degrees does nothing, and reversing the polarity leaves you with the motor turning in the required direction, but 24 degrees retarded. Most round can adjustable timing motors can be reverse polarity timed, it usually just requires the plastic tab that limits the timing position to be trimmed off, the clamping ring inside the motor(where the endbell screws thread into) to be flipped (or it misses the locking tabs inside the can) and the endbell to be turned CW by the same amount of degrees that the other, standard rotation motor is advanced CCW. Works a treat on a pair of Tamiya Super Stock RZ's, my favourite brushed motors, should work on dirt tuned etc also. Hope this helps, it's not the kind of info easily found on forums.

@@leemollison7508 ok thanks, so I need round can motors, that I can rotate the endbell ?

What the chassis or the full clod?

Check your local RC online shops or buy & sell sites.

@@RCKickschannel keep up the excellent work

Sorry no but it’s super easy to do as the Clod shop chassis comes built.

Chassis is $70.00 less than the Clod kit. Yep you could do a load of different things to make a Monster truck.

You forget one thing, this is my job as well as my hobby, I have to fund continual content for the channel.

@@RCKickschannel does it suck? I’m not dissing you in any way. I’m curious. Me personally I’d rather forego the money and enjoy the hobby. Is it true what they say about turning your hobby into your job? Does it diminish the experience? I mean you no disrespect. I have enough RC to make my own channel, and I’m planning on starting a miniZ racing league where I live. I could make content for years…. But is it worth it?