I wanted to ask,do you think this could be run along aside a solar powerstation albeit a good one

@@kularm How do you mean?

So I was thinking of buying a Ups system like anker or bluetti etc. According to spec I should be able to charge this bikes battery via that ups. I wanted to buy 400w of solar to charge that battery then making it off the grid. I won't be riding every day

@@drflatpackcustomerservices153 Sounds good!

Hi, thank you very much for the detailed info! I just ordered the cable because of it : ) I noticed there is a cruise control setting - have you tried playing with it? Also, how to find out battery C type for the standard SuperSoco battery? Thank you!

Thanks! They're great aren't they! I'll have a play with the regen next on the TC Max and upload the results. I'm thinking about putting it on the headlight switch. It's unused on my bike as the headlight is wired always on. I emailed super soco in china to ask why they didn't enable the regen. They said "for security when high speed". It's wired to the brake light switches as is but basic regen is unpredictable depending on speed. I think that's what they meant. Best to have a separate switch!

Nice - thanks - I am thinking that the tyres are def for nice roads only. Perhaps Mitas MC32 all-weathers.

I'm working on it! There should hopefully be a programming cable available soon. I'll do a video on how to use it. You can add regen and also change the settings on the mode switch to limit power as well as top speed. Thanks for the compliment. Pleased to have helped!

@@thecapacitator8137 would the programming cable be for the stock motor controller? I've recently had the GPS module replaced (oddly the one that failed was super soco branded and the replacement was v Moto) via warranty as the app kept failing. So I'd be keen to keep the warranty going even if it's just for the parts. Thanks again and looking forward to it 😀

Yes it's for the standard controller. Might invalidate your warranty but I'm not sure how they'd know. I'm not planning on increasing power, just get the best range. Thanks for the info on your warranty claim. It's good to know they are honouring it.

@@thecapacitator8137 exactly the same as you, for me. I'd be keen to pop regen on and limit acceleration on level one and a maybe a tiny bit on 2. that's about it I think! I log my journeys home and often use the same battery % for the same 3 mile journey regardless if I'm on level 1, 2 or 3. I think this is because it's just a huge big hill all the way home. One of my favourite battery saving techniques is to tuck! It reminds me of my old 125cc days when I had to overtake. You feel the motor ease off as soon as you do even though you keep the same speed. Anyways, I waffling. Thanks again!

That's good you've been logging your battery use. You'll be able to report if the regen makes much difference. Maximum regen will be limited to 10a with the standard battery as the BMS will most likely disconnect if you try more. I'm not sure if reducing power on the mode switch will make a massive difference as you're probably modulating throttle anyway. It takes me back too! Haven't had as much fun on the road for years! I do the same on the short bit of main road on my regular run. Specially if it's windy.

Congratulations! Yes, bit of treatment to the frame and it should be fine.

@@thecapacitator8137 - thanks for the reassuring words..I’d still be much happier if they’d made it from a high grade alloy or even galvanised it though..I’d have it galvanised, if I thought I could fully disassemble/reassemble one of these things..you made it look easy..do ya fancy doing it for me please..lol ?😂😂

There is an Allen included with the bike, attached to the bottom of the seat. At least, it is included in my not-Max TC.

The biggest mod is the battery. Mainly for extra range, not performance. Have a look at my other videos. Maybe you could upgrade to a TC Max rather than spend money on modding your TC? On the TC Max everything is running as close to maximum as I'm comfortable with. If you tune your bike too much it could become unreliable.

@@thecapacitator8137 Definitely I'd love to upgrade the battery and it would be the first "mod" i'd give it. Problem is we're looking at around 1500-2000 € (i guess about 1200-1700 quid) for a full capacity battery (60 Ah). As for reliability, if i ever fiddle with anything else, i wouldn't feel safe doing too big of a mod. I'm no specialist in bike structures. As for going for a tc max ... i'm considering it but i'd have to brake the piggy bank for that 😆

That's a lot of money for the battery. Could go a long way towards a TC Max if you want more power and range. You could always buy second hand.

Thanks for the info! My belt makes a fair bit of noise too. I wouldn't worry too much. It's only noticeable due to the rest of the bike being so quiet! Mine started making noise around 1000 miles. I think you'd find all tyres have poor grip in the wet. Specially in town where diesel get's spilled by trucks. Just be super cautious when the road's wet. Should have the programming cable tomorrow. I'll upload a video as soon as possible!

Without any modification?!

is this for real :)?

I'm not sure exactly but it does slow it down a bit. Sorry I can't give accurate numbers.

Ignore last bit found your videos :-)

Congratulations on your return to biking! Welcome back! That's unusual. Maybe they didn't align the wheel properly after fixing the brake? I'm working on a video about how to re-program the motor controller to add regenerative braking. May give you a couple more miles.

I've been working on bikes and electronics for years. There's not much difference between maintaining a petrol bike and an electric one. Electric ones are much easier. Parts seem to be readily available from either dealers or aliexpress. You won't need much though. Maybe a set of brake pads, a belt and pulleys set. But only after 15000 miles or so.

No it's not waterproof and has a standard 3 pin mains plug. I bungee net mine under the seat when charging outdoors but it's never been rained on. The first shot in my most recent video shows how I set it up.

​ @The Capacitator I'm ok to charge at work but think I'll need to build a shelter and a housing for the charging brick at home as I don't fancy lifting the battery out each night. thanks for letting me know, very useful videos 👍

Hi, was hoping you'd drop in! Interesting you mention about motor alignment. The reason I dismantled my bike was due to it being written off. The motor was aligned perfectly on that bike. My new bike however requires the rear wheel to be adjusted to keep the belt on (that's what soco recommend). Only 3mm or so. Feels straight when riding. See how it goes in terms of wear. Did you get the original 5a charger? I've heard from a couple of people who had them break. Also wondering, do you park outdoors?

Oh what happened to the first bike that wrote it off? Doesn’t seem overly damaged in your video? My belt was quite visibly bowed and no amount of adjustment on the rear wheel would get rid of it. Made a terrible noise in the wet and cold too which disappeared once it was straight. I did have the 5a charger which used to get pretty hot but I swapped it out for an AliExpress adjustable charger which iv also set to 80v as I don’t usually need the battery at its full 100% 84v. My bike is permanently stored outside but under a lean-to to keep the rain off the switches and really the framework etc is looking pretty good considering I ride salt roads etc all year round.

Guy pulled out on me. There was minor frame damage so cat B. Disappointed I can't continue clocking up miles! My 5a gets hot too but also doesn't fully charge sometimes. Nice and quiet with no fan but heavy with the potting. It seems to be the transformers that get hot. It was you who recommended the Wate one to me. That still works! I just got a new 18a one from jhopass on aliexpress. It's fairly small and light for it's output. Need inspecting before use though. The pos output wire was touching the neg shunt which gets hot. It was already starting to melt through after one test charge! Good idea under charging. Your battery should last ages. Do you take it in with you at home? I prefer not to charge when it's too cold. You can get anode plating apparently. I prefer over 10C. Just been for a little ride and recorded my phone screen with the BMS app running. Bike pulls 6.5kw! That's more than I expected.

@@thecapacitator8137 ah yes my wate one is now my backup in case my higher powered one stops working for some reason. Oh 18a is nice, mine tops out at 13a but the battery should be able to take upto 50a but I’d probably not risk it that high. Interestingly my higher powered more expensive charger is actually quite a bit more efficient than the cheaper slower wate one. I charge off solar too so efficiency is something I can monitor fairly easily. Good call checking your charger before plugging it in!! I don’t charge below 1c at all but have recently been charging overnight with batt temps as low as 2c. Not ideal as you say but it’s just too convenient for me to just plug the bike in after work. 6.5kw is a good amount, the motor for sure can handle a lot more peak power if you ever wanted it. I fitted a temp sensor in my motor and it rarely gets 20c above outside air temp, and I’m running 9.5kw peak with roughly 2-2.5 continuous. No hills though.

​@@lhk8558 I get about 10C rise in battery temp at 18a so have to keep an eye on that. I don't really want to push it any further. The charger is just about light enough to carry with me so I'm going to attempt some longer journeys with a public charge half way. Did you upgrade the flimsy wire between charge port and battery? I've been connecting direct to the battery with my 18a charger. Most battery datasheets say it's okay down to 0C. I think most of the damage is done at the top of the charge so it should be fine due to you under charging. I thought that too about the motor. But I prefer to have it set at a peak that it'll do continuously. I think the high voltage wiring and the battery connector are probably a weak link too. If I went higher power I'd prefer to upgrade them and probably build a battery with higher discharge rated cells in too. My most regular journey is over 40 miles. It makes more sense to have more power if your doing shorter journeys as it sounds like you do. Parts wont have time to get too hot. I'd love to have a go on yours with all that power! Which motor controller do you have? I quite like the look of the model above the standard one. Think it's called VEC500. Might be a bit big though.

Thanks! I've imported parts no problem but never a whole bike. Got the regen working in the next video.

Hi, should hopefully have a source for programming cables soon. I'm working on the video now!

Error 98 is controller error possibly caused by the brake being seized. Take the brake caliper off and remove the pads. Take pictures as you go if your unfamiliar with brakes so you know how they go back together. Remove the brake pads and pump the pistons out a little with the brake lever. Don't go too far or they'll fall out and release all the fluid. Clean the pistons then push them all the way back in. Work them in and out a few times. Then reassemble. If one piston gets stuck and doesn't want to come out try holding the other piston with a piece of wood jammed in to stop it then pump the brake again. If it's the back brake there's only one piston so you won't have to worry about that.

You need a programming cable. I'm working on a video on how to do it. Should have programming cables available to buy soon too. I was thinking of removing the speaker from the alarm box to disable the start up music. It's mounted under the battery box on the left side of the bike.

No it's a Honda SS50E. I restored it a few years ago. Not as quick as the legendary FS1 but good on fuel though. titimus.co.uk/honda-ss50

@@thecapacitator8137 i have mixed those two up so many times haha. Nice project though, great result! Thanks for the reply!

That's 100% - 20% discharge.

Sorry, not sure on that one.

The alarm system in the bike can be changed for the one in the Super Soco scooters which have a less embarrassing sound. Go Green Motorcycles swapped mine out. The keyfob also changes to one you can remote start up the bike with. Although that fob has another issue where buttons can be pushed in while in pocket.

I would just put some connectors on the end of the wires and plug the new indicator into them. If the wires are not long enough. Find them in the loom that exits the light, pull them out then extend them. Then feed them back through the light.

That's strange. There isn't any oil in the battery.

I don't think it would pull higher gearing. I'm more interested in the opposite, lower gearing. For faster acceleration and torque.

Not very often. I ride on dirty back roads too. I covered the bottom of the frame with waxoil then sprayed it inside the bottom tubes. Seems to be keeping the rust away. I'll do it again at service time.

I'm on twitter with the same name. Or make a video on here?

Sorry to hear that. Hope you're okay. I think the grip just pulls off and the switch gear has two screws.

@thecapacitator8137 Thank you. As a new rider, I crashed just by breaking too hard with the front weel. Broke my arm, but I'm ok now. The bike is also ok, but I need to change the handlebar and will try by myself💪

@@jonnyraul3166 Sounds nasty, pleased you're recovering. The screws can be really tight so make sure the screwdriver you use is a good fit. If it doesn't budge drill the screw with a drill bit about the same size as the screw thread. Think it's 5mm. Then order some new screws.

I think it's a different voltage

s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ar97vx

That's quite common. Not just on Super Soco's. The sleeving get's brittle in the cold and as it ages. Keep an eye on the wires, should be fine.

@@thecapacitator8137 If you mean the indicator no longer working then I don't think it's fine haha, having a hell of a time trying to get warranty support on it.

Ah, sorry I thought you meant the outer sleeving. Yes sounds like they had the loom routed incorrectly. Keep at them, they should sort it out.

​​@@thecapacitator8137 after watching your video again it gave me the confidence to go ahead and fix the broken cable myself. Two were badly frayed, one was completely snapped in half. Noticed one of the cable's pins at the bottom of the bike wasn't pushed into the plug socket properly either. Bike sorted now whoop whoop. I figure it's what the shop would have done anyway.

Well done! That's great. Pleased the video was useful.

Should do.

Hi Bruno. Yes, it could be the DC-DC converter. It's mounted to the rear of the battery box. It's the second thing I unplug on the left side of the bike before removing the battery box.

Tive o mesmo problema, após lavar a moto (não sei se foi a causa ou pura coincidência).

@@hugomeia-onca8502 pois eu foi com chuva forte e tinha deixado a Bateria na moto... você é de onde?

@@BrunoRodrigues-oi9un Lisboa. Tive de mudar conversor, farol e alarme. Queimaram com a água.

O conversor queimou o que posteriormente levou a queimar farol e alarme.

If you mean a public one, yes. You need one of these... s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnecufR

Not sure, sorry.

LG MJ1

​@@thecapacitator8137 aren't they prismatic cells?

You could disconnect the speaker in the alarm unit.

@@thecapacitator8137 you could. BUT the box is tightly sealed. Opening it is going to be difficult and can damage the electronics inside. My solution: stuffed some cotton through the plastic cuts for the speaker. It stoped the speaker from vibrating, thus, no sound! :D If for some reason I need to get the bike serviced, I'll just remove the cotton and it should work fine.

@@thecapacitator8137 - kzfaq.infovFtaZ9CqBBI

@@EdiMCharana Perfect 👍

Yeah, it's fine

@@thecapacitator8137 that's great I was worried it wasn't weatherproofed

Yes QS 138 50H

That's riding pretty much flat out and leaving 20% charge.

Thanks! I thought the TC had the controller there. Not the TC Max.

@@thecapacitator8137Nope in china or chinese vision that front fairing trim is all model Electric controller position .

@@EdsionTian Thanks, I didn't know that.

Sir, this way. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mdGUppiA1bq-ZqM.html

Have a look on Alibaba.

If you're anywhere near BC come to Vancouver, we've got a distributer in Burnaby.

It's got linked brakes. Just use more rear in the wet. You should be fine.

After stacking it 2x in the mud and@@thecapacitator8137 wondering if i ought to put on different tyres (apparently recommended) - I wanted to see if the left footpeg was supposed to be bent in as some design, as it looked as if it had been cast that way - I picked it up like that and the guy said he had replaced a panel that was scratched. Battery cover takes a few pushes to click. The front wheel is ever so slightly misaligned, so I think this bike I have was dropped on the road a few times - the drift I get with the rear brake is from the misalignment, and steep road camber anyway, I think. At least it's not that heavy, but I don't like having to roll off into the muddy bank and look like an idiot! I'm a bit of a front wheel braker, so the misalignment is even worse for wet when trying to maintain control. Now I'm aware of all this, which I'm saying thanks for, cos of your video, I'm not gonna be tazzing it so fast around the lanes here, and keeping my pushbike for bad weather. I was a bit sad that you didn't like the bike, so much, but I'm up along the Welsh borders either doing 10 up or 35 down and round. A bit more rough-roading, but minimal traffic, thankfully. Your roads seem nice, but here - The bike does not have enough presence for safe A roads more than a town junction or two, I think - I'd cycle them np, but on an e-bike I get bulled no matter how loud I swear at them, every journey, without fail..! It's dangerous. I think we have them for different purposes, as its range (20% remaining) is a round trip to see the mrs, and also - at the age of 43 - I've never held a full license, so cars are the enemy afaik :P Thanks for your reply, mate! It's helped me decide a few things about which I was unsure. I'll keep the bike, but with less than 200 miles from me (coming up to 2k total since 2019), but I think changing the tyres, adding a shade/cover to the dash - and fixing the misaligned wheel , replace that peg and prob clevis assembly, can probably machine one... But yeah - I'm going to be much safer on this bike now. Idk why it has pillion pegs either ;¬) lol Have a good weekend :)

@@PeterAustin666 If the forks are twisted in the yoke slacken the clamps and twist it straight. Might be worth supporting the weight of the bike with a box or something. Or rock it on to the side stand a bit so minimal weight is on the forks. I wouldn't bother with new tyres. The standard ones are fine. No road tyre will grip well on mud.

@@thecapacitator8137 thanks for the tips! I've been looking for any marks to suggest someone has done it before - sometimes you can find the telltale lines of someone putting things back just not quite right. Pretty sure its from stacking the bike on its left, handlebars locked left, pushing them on way and the wheel direction the other - cos that's how it was feeling - it's not the road camber being so steep - it's definitely a few degrees skew. Can't complain about having to straighten the handlbars and deal with a bent footpeg, for 1500 quid off the list price tho.

In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.