I always do a final pass with the Feeler Gauges before the cam cover goes on just to satisfy my OCD! 30 years building bike engines and I've never seen a change after torquing the head down? Maybe it's a car thing? Which I have absolutely no experience with.

@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Yes, your builds are absolutely very well done, can't wait to see this one finished, I imagine it depends on the head design , thickness, location of bolts whether it has studs that might effect clearances. But as you say experience is priceless and you have clearly gained lots over the years.

😂

I'm very familiar with the Suzuki Vintage Parts Programme it's a fantastic thing. Unfortunately they don't go as far as restarting manufacture of Parts that are no longer available. And the programme doesn't cover all there past models. You can usually find any genuine part if your wallet is deep enough and you have unlimited time. Unfortunately I'm short on both!

@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV where do you usually purchase all or some of your suzuki gs850 parts?

www.sandblasters.co.uk/sand-blast-gun-with-4-nozzles-for-sandblast-cabinet-sbc420-and-sbc990-replacement-gun-164-p.asp

@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Nice one mate! I have an old Fireblade with low miles and I'm building a vapour blaster to work on it. Also go an old Vespa... Yeah, sorry about that.

All filmed, just haven't got to the edit yet!

@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Thanks for the update, have a good weekend.

🤣 Like I said in the video, everyone has an option on this! There is a very slim chance that the two nut method would work here, probably unlikely though given the original nut that was seized to the stud had the same opertunity and failed. Most of the time there isn't enough thread for two nuts, which was the point of showing this method. Thanks for commenting 👍

Lol, Jim has 30+ years of experience and correct me if I am wrong, used to have/work for a racing team. His work is outstanding. I don’t think he needs anyone telling him out to do stuff. Forcing the nut out without heat will knacker the thread or snap the stud, making the job million times harder.

@@Unedited2022 LOL. what I said would have worked fine. I've done it many times. The welding a nut on is perfectly acceptable also. however, as you seen it takes more time and prep. Also on the plus side, you dont need to grab yourself a £1500 welder. That's always a bonus.🤣

No two engines are the same. The shims are there to adjust the valve clearances. Every engine will be different depending on manufacturing tolerances, engine milage/wear etc.

@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV thanks for the information one question I want to tune up to be able to put the chain aligned the letter T with the fixed mark of the engine seeing that cylinders one and four remain at top dead center or I align the letter F.?

@@marlon45aries20 not sure I completely understand the question? "F" is the firing mark with no ignition advance (@ Idle) "T" is the Top Dead Centre mark. All this information is readily available in the service manual.

I think the heat has a lot to do with releasing the stud too. You'd have to hit it till its red and let it cool. then a bit of penetrant to top it off.

🤣🤣 you haven't spent much time getting your hands dirty then! In virtually every situation if the stud has snapped off while trying to undo with the original nut. Just getting hold of it again isn't going to make any difference.