@Prepared HomesteadLife From the SDS for Sunnyside, linseed oil - "Oil soaked materials may spontaneously combust and should be properly managed to avoid ignition and heat sources or oxygen rich environments. Collect and store soaked materials in closed, water filled, metal containers to help prevent combustion." There are videos on KZfaq showing examples of spontaneous combustion of boiled linseed oil soaked rags.

@Prepared HomesteadLife Incorrect....This person has sound advice. I came home to a linseed oil soaked cloth that self combusted in the sun light during the summer time a few years ago...Luckily it was in a safe place and caused no harm...however, had it been close to anything else combustible it would have definitely ignited it and burned the place down while I ran to the store "real quick"

I've never had a issue after years of using this stuff, head the warning but I don't think it's that concerning.

@@David-kg1hc until you do have an issue and a huge fire

It's never happened to me I've used an old rag and thew it in the trash can in the basement it's probably there now maybe the heat of the sun has something to do with it

When I was in my 20's, I used long wooden handles for my framing hammers. The upside of using long wooden handles for framing was that they had a barely perceptible flex in the handle. This flex provided reduced hand shock and amazing nail driving capacity. The downside of using wooden handles on big framing hammer heads is that the handles were broken from time to time. they usually broke under the hammer head. The process to replace the handles was to drive the broken handle out of the eye of the head and clean any residue out of the eye. The new handle never fit perfectly (you made sure that the fit in the eye was a little too big rather than too small). Using a rasp or coarse file (four in hand was what I usually used), you would work the wood down to be slightly too big and use a broken piece of glass to scrape the handle for the final fitting. You could get the fit to be almost exact that way. Then use wooden and metal wedges to finish off. Almost the exact same process as replacing an axe head. Estwing hammers and other metal hammers were available at the time but for me they were dead in the hand and never as good for a day of driving nails. The metal hammers were, of course, many times more durable. That was in the late 60's. Nail guns were just coming in. I suspect that hammers are a secondary tool now and are rarely used. Sorry to leave the subject of removing lacquer from axe handles but the reference to using broken glass as a scraper reminded me of replacing hammer heads.

Thanks for this info. I'm always worried when coming across such info that one day this knowledge will be lost :/

I have an old saucepan full of water in the garden, I dump them in there, the oil will oxidise/cure underwater. Then I don't need to burn them.

You could just burn them directly. If you let them cure while laying flat on something non-flammable they will be safe to throw in the bin afterwards, but why miss out on a making a fire?

You need to learn how to type still kid lol

your typing is fine, ignore that gold member dude

@@spencer1854 No worries, even though I type with my toes, I still have room for improvement in the proofreading area. Besides, maybe he’s still learning how to love himself and others too.

It's never to late to learn. You can't give yourself too much flack, as no one taught you these tips... until now.

Any polymerising oil will work, plus Walnut oil is food safe so can you also use it to oil a spoon you carved around the fire in the woods.

William, you're correct about leather and tannins attacking our steel blades. I like the sound of your linings too. But... Veg Tanned Leather doesn't have this problem. So if anyone is making their own sheaths, make sure to only use veg tanned leather. Bonus with veg tan is it can be wet moulded. Additional to the point you made about storage: Leather absorbs moisture, so make sure it's dry if the tool won't be used for a while, or even leave that sheath off.. have a fully dry temporary one for storage.

@@talkin-ape not to be argumentative, but I have had an seen this happen with veg tanned leather. It takes longer for veg tanned to do this but it still does. Oiling a blade and putting it in a dry (not lined) finished veg tanned interior, will wick the tannins through the oil. So to your point of cleaning and drying fully before sheathing, 100,000% On veg tanned doesn't do this, you are mistaken sir.

Colorado Yurt Company, makers of Earthworks Tipis, recommends the same treatment for tipi poles. Those suckers aren't cheap so you gotta take care of them!

As a PNW residents myself, I can verify that mold does grow in linseed oiled wood. What do you suggest instead?

@@memathews I can't speak for things like tools which is the focus here, but have found almost all "varnishes" have some level of linseed. But for decks and fences I really like Ready Seal. I'm sure somebody here would know a good substitute for applications like tools. Though I dont see why R.S. wouldnt work for that too

defo sand it first. splinters in the tung are a pain.