Thanks for keeping these videos available. I come back to it every once in awhile. 15 years later and still most people do not understand this.

Thanks for explaining this. Back 45 years ago, it required some substantial experimentation to get my dirt bike to be stable and handle well enough to actually be fun to ride. With proper setup, you can drag the foot-pegs, on the street, with Full Knobby Tires, with complete confidence. This is with the pegs being 13" off the ground on a narrow dirt bike frame, no kidding. Back then, street bikes basically had NO suspension, and were really scary to ride, my 2-stroke dirt bike, with it's 8.5" of suspension travel on both ends, would run circles around any street bike under 50 mph if there was even the slightest roughness on the road. I really don't understand the people who want their bike to be "twitchy" and "quick", as far as I'm concerned, that's just a good way to crash and burn. You need to have adequate "Trail" even when you are under heavy brake dive. I didn't know what "trail" was at the time, but I knew that getting the forks as long as possible fixed everything, no more head-shake in deep sand, and the bike just goes where you want it with just a slight weight shift. You can even ride with no hands in the dirt.

Thank you for these videos! they help a lot. I'm currently customizing my GPZ900R and need info on the optimal settings. Going from 18'' rear to a 17'', and probably a modern front suspension.

Really good information. Explanation in details about motorcycle geometry and suspension. Great info

Great series, very informative for a novice like me!

Hi Max, i have a question about the rake and trail numbers. Are they also mesured with the suspention hanging off the ground like you say with the swingarm angle? Thanks in advance, and for these video's i am learning alot from it. Greetings Barry.