Yea, that looks really good until the fluid starts falling up. lol

Thank you. With all the aluminum components in a Sprinter, neglecting proper torque becomes an expensive mistake, quickly. It's a lesson I had to learn a few times... Haha.

You are SO right about the importance of torque… I just watched the video and got under my van today to change my filter/fluid… The drain plug is stripped, 1 of the bolts is stripped, and other bolt has the previous owners T27 broken off inside it… now I’m up a creek

​@MichaelRodriguez-vb8dn did you solve your issues with an ez out and helicoil?

Thanks for watching!

Set your torque wrench to 8Nm and tighten in a star pattern, when you get that far and putting things back together.

thank you very much

What was the name of this cleaner if you can remember?

@@antonioescalante5268 This is what they required that I buy. Whether this brand is better than another, I don't know. I do know it worked very well. www.lubegard.com/products/kk/

I didn't know there was a transmission oil cooler! Or maybe this was not a Sprinter you rebuilt? No mention of this is made above. But yes, I trust lubegard a lot and have used their other products for years.

@@LEXICOGRAFFER yes, the oil cooler is mounted in front of the radiator and is what the transmission lines are attached to. The transmission pump pushes the transmission fluid out into it to cool it down before cycling to back into the transmission. This is very common on diesels. Personally I’ve never worked on a diesel that didn’t have a cooler.

Rumble Strip Noise (RSN) is a specific valve shudder. A few other things can cause similar valve shudder but won't be corrected by the D.A.R.F. (Dr A's RSN Fix). I don't recommend the DARF unless the shudder is unbearable and I'm not convinced your issue will be helped by drilling that hole to relieve pressure. That fluid is comparable to Mercon V which is definitely not compatible with our vans. I would do a complete fluid change including the torque converter and new filter immediately. Shell 134 of Fusch's Titan 4134.

@@FloridaVanMan Thanks! I did more research and found the following: The Owner's Manual (page 300) for my 2500 Sprinter indicates that the following fluids are suitable for the 5-speed automatic transmission: "Shell ATF 3403/M-115 MOPAR® Part No. 05127382AA, or equivalent Fuchs/Shell ATF 3353" "MB SHEET: 236.10 236.12" Per Fuchs' website, Fuchs 3353 meets the "Dexron III" specs. I also found another reference that said "Dexron III and Mercon V are similar types of automatic transmission fluid, with the main difference being that Dexron is the formula developed by General Motors, while Mercon was created by Ford. The specifications of the two formulas are so similar that the two are often considered interchangeable, even if the car manufacturer recommends only using its specific formula." I asked Phillips whether Versatrans CVT Plus fluid meets Mercon V, Dexron III, or both. They replied that it does NOT meet either of these specs but is recommended as suitable for such use in their "AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS GUIDE," which is actually published by Kendall. Their guide specifically indicates the following: "Sprinter 2500 2003-09 Mopar P/N 05127382AA, MB 236.10 & MB 236.12 Versatrans CVT Plus ATF = Yes" This is all terribly confusing. Do you have any thoughts?

I have an additional update: a PCMO (Passenger Car Motor Oil) engineer at Phillips 66 responded as follows: “The [Versatrans] CVT Plus is suitable for use here [in a 2006 Sprinter] as you mentioned. When the CVT Plus was being developed, several no harm tests were conducted to ensure use in step-type transmissions, including those made by dodge (or transmissions sourced from elsewhere used in dodge vehicles). As he [meaning me] mentioned, the viscometrics are very similar between these two [referring to Versatrans CVT Plus and Shell ATF 3403] which is not a coincidence. If there is confusion stemming from the fact that Versatrans [←this refers to regular Versatrans, not Versatrans CVT Plus, which are 2 different products] is not recommended in ATF guide, when the bulk of our materials and research for Versatrans were conducted decades ago, there may not have been enough data to give the thumbs up. CVT Plus being newer and having been through more intensive testing makes us more comfortable with claiming suitable for use on such a large range of transmissions."

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Thank you!!! So glad we could help you.

Sorry I missed all these comments until now. We have a socket and bar on the bolt-head in the center of the harmonic balancer. I think it is a 23mm socket, but I'd need to look tomorrow to be sure. When rotating the engine, always turn forward (clockwise). Turning backwards, I'm told, can cause trouble with slack in the timing chain.

@@FloridaVanMan After you rotate the torque converter to drain do you rotate it counterclockwise to bring the bolt back to the original position it was in?

@@ratchetboo We only rotate the engine to find the drain in the T.C. Once the plug is located we drain it, replace the plug, and carry on. No need to turn it again after it is located at the bottom. If you turn the engine counter-clockwise for any reason, be sure to turn it clockwise to take up any potential slack before trying the starter. I'm not clear how/why a chain would get any slack in it, but I wouldn't want to yank on it with the starter motor if there were any slack. This is something I have read about and not experienced any slack timing chains. But I play it safe here based on others advice.

@@FloridaVanMan cool thanks for the info and helpful tutorial

@@FloridaVanMan how many nm do you tighten the torque converter bolt we used to drain the remaining tranny fluid?

Only way to know is take it out and look. The seal does not need to be replaced every time and service is so rare I would not think the average person needs to worry about a replacement seal on the torque converter drain plug. Reuse as needed. I do.

We couldn't blast it all in one video. lol Actually this was a very early video and we have several transmission videos. Drain plug is often 5mm hex, all other bolts are T-30 and tighten to 8Nm. Turning the engine to find a drain plug requires a friend or creative use of a large ratchet between knees.

Yes! The round connector is screwed to the conductor plate. Trying to lower the valve body while connector is still in place will ruin the conductor plate and prevent removal. Level two just means a bigger hammer. In another video I used a level 12 persuasion tool on an EGR removal. (**it got real*).

@@FloridaVanMan thank you for the reply - I wasn't able to remove the socket cup with the captive screw, so I put it back together (only to find that a PO has badly buggered the pan threads into the case. Dammit! Where did you decide to apply hammer-ness on the socket cup? I have another question related to your video (for which I thank you very much) - I found it impossible to bump the starter to get the torque converter drain plug to line up with the cut-out: is it OK to turn the crankshaft with a wrench on the pulley nut? I haven't confirmed there is a nut on the front of the crankshaft (but there are on my other cars) but I thought you'd be the right guy to ask. Thanks again, Tim.

Yes, the Shell 134 fluid is good for the 2004 as well as my 2006 model. Lot less cost in bulk.

That is odd. I see now the description only lists one vehicle as fitting, 2005 Sprinter. The '04-'06 are all the same to my knowledge. All North American models of this age are same OM647 engine and 722.6 transmission. Should fit, but I hesitate to make any promises. Same fluid & filter used on all ours and a few friends' vans. We have done a couple conductor plates and never found there to be a variation in needed parts.

This is what we have used recently and it works very well. Meyhle has not been available for a long time unfortunately. Shell ATF-134 is perfectly okay and specifically meets the specifications listed for Transmission fluid. Even goes one step beyond specifically name dropping the transmission and stating “suitable for Sprinter vans”.

Yes Chris, I believe T27/T30 is the only torx bit we used in the video.

Amazon is often incorrect about fitment. If you are using a link I posted, it fits.

That is a new symptom for me, *pulsing shifting. From what I am imagining.... I wonder if fluid is low or filter is dislodged in the transmission? But these are guesses since I've not seen that symptom.

Hmm, I checked the links. They work for me. Where are you and did you have a dispute with Amazon?

Let's talk about this before you do half the job and need to start over or miss the target completely. Draining the pan, but not the torque converter is kinda' like putting on a clean diaper without wiping off the baby. Half of your fluid will remain in the system if you only drain the trans-pan. If you had a glass of sour milk you wouldn't pour half out and refill the glass with fresh milk. A new conductor plate costs less than fluid, so I replace the plate whenever there is a problem. Is your issue RSN or other vibration. RSN is valve shudder and you may have something out of balance. What is this rubber piece you mention? Does your vibration stop if you put slight pressure on the accelerator? RSN alleviated by raising RPM even slightly. Shifting into neutral can also help isolate the issue. If vibration continues in N, it's not RSN. You will probably need to stop before Drive engages again properly. Drop a note with a donation and we can discuss at length, privately.

Would you say it feels like the pedal gets no response, or more like the van is trying to drag a ton of weight? If it feels like weight, when was the transmission last serviced?

@@FloridaVanMan definitely no response from the pedal!! After I shut off and reset the LHM, when I start it again after a few minutes, I can throw it into drive and feel the transmission engage. During LHM, it doesn't feel like it engages, no matter how much I put it in park and then back into gear. When it does engage, after 1.5k rpm, it almost feels like driving in snow or mud when the tires spin, but you're still inching forward a bit, but with no real power or traction... If I go up even a slight incline, I lose all steam and have to reset LHM. Clear as mud?

@@crouton976 This could be a transmission code that needs to be cleared. Do you have a code reader that is good for Sprinters? I like this one amzn.to/3IKSgwt Read all codes and note them or screenshot. See what codes come back when you try to drive. We have a video for getting the reader setup right for T1N Sprinters. Pay special attention to the CDI codes and Transmission Control codes. Have you checked the transmission fluid level? You need this Trans Dipstick: amzn.to/352iCY1 . You won't be able to warm the trans fluid if you can't drive it, sou see the bottom set of lines as your makers for low & high. Check with engine running in Park, after cycling through R & D.

floridavanman.com/donate/

@@FloridaVanMan yup, I've got the Autel reader, based on another of your videos. 🤘🤘 Unfortunately, I accidentally hit the quick clear button and erased all the codes. 😅 It was throwing something for the electronic transmission control, and the regular transmission control. Also, I noticed an exhaust smell the other day, and hadn't had time to investigate... I suspect I've got a bad injector seal or two... I'm seeing what might be black death peeking out from under the cover... 😬😬😬 I'll definitely buy the dipstick and check my trans fluid... Hopefully that's all it is... And hey, if you ever wanna make a trip about 1.5 hours from San Diego, I've got an '06 3500, 158" WB, with double sliders (which I understand to be rare in North America) that wants to meet you... you could get plenty of footage for a year's worth of content!! 🤣

There are many brands available on eBay and Amazon. I don't have a favorite.

Yes, all the bolts in the transmission pan and valve body have the same torque setting.

U-shaped receiver on the conductor plate in a Sprinter will leave you unable to check fluid level. The way our dipstick tube routes back and forth it is impossible to register accurately from the top of the tube.

Did you replace the conductor plate when servicing the transmission? Discussion is difficult here. Please find me on on Facebook or join our support group for 1-on-1 assistance. patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&

Those symptoms don't feel familiar to me. I'd need more data to make an educated guess. Sorry.

Might try a second dipstick or try your dipstick in any other Sprinter. I found one dipstick with the stopper nubs just a bit too small or worn-down. It would pass through the stopper funnel. If two dipsticks go too deep I think that is confirmation the conductor plate is wrong.

It has been a long time since I've watched that video and I didn't realize it was missing the capacity. 4.5-5 quarts refills the transmission if we don't drain the torque converter. Some vans don't have a drain for it. When we drink the torque converter is takes a little over 8 quarts to fill up.

We should tighten them in a criss-cross pattern, but not so critical as engine head, manifold bolts or even wheel lugs. The pan is fairly flexible but the torque spec is light at 8Nm. Snugging them all then coming back to tighten each is recommended. I usually start with the middle two bolts.

Oh No! How many liters or quarts of fluid did you put in?

Also you may have to clear the EGS (transmission) codes before it'll move. Especially if it threw transmission codes in the first place.

A little late to the party, but be certain to get the valve pin into the groove in the comb wheel when you mount the valve body. -dave

Try holding the shifter a half second, not just a flick. I think I saw you on FB and I reply faster there.

That magnet is standard in most transmissions, to collect magnetic clutch fibers.

I have not done the DARF because I understand there is a little loss on mpg and it doesn't rumble at highway speed on the one I had. I sold that van over a year ago. Not all shudder is RSN so if it hasn't always done this, or if you haven't already... Replace the fluid, filter, connector seal and conductor plate. This solves *most T1N transmission issues.

​@@FloridaVanMan Its only a mild annoyance at around 35-40MPH on my van. (nothing at highway speeds) I have changed fluid, filter and connector. I didn't clean the conductor plate like you have shown. Maybe that's the next step... thanks again

@@JonGould5607 Rather than clean the conductor plate, go the extra mile and replace it with new. If the problem persists after that DARF is your only option.

I haven't watched this video in a few years, but we should have added 5 bottles then started the van before adding 3 more. I usually need a few ounces of fluid from a 9th bottle to get the level I want at operating temp.

I don't know which link you are referring. Amazon is often wrong about vehicle fitment. If I linked it, it fit! But..... beware of my links that are old. Amz sellers change the product without changing the listing. The alternator I liked for years now ships with a pulley that does not align on our vans. We will be updating our links soon at floridavanman.com/links

If you can send me a message in daytime I can check it but length of the stick isn't normally relevant. The stopper is a wide point at the top of the black tip on your dipstick. if you aren't reading any fluid there may be a piece of dipstick broken off inside the tube. If you can push farther, it wasn't fully inserted.

Thanks for the response! Let me know if you were able to get a total length of the dipstick you used in this video. I am able to to put the dipstick all the way in with no problem with about 6 inches sticking out. I can however push it beyond that point till the entire dipstick is in the fill tube. I definitely feel it come to a descent stop with about 6 inches sticking out.

@@garettsimon3800 Measured 4 of them. Longest is 48 inches, shortest just 46.5 inches.

@@garettsimon3800 I thought I replied a few days ago, sorry. The dipsticks I have vary between 47inches to 48.25 inches.

I like your idea of a crash cushion to catch my drops! I don't pull the conductor plate off any more unless I am going to replace it. The solenoids all need to come off for this and new conductor plates are not very expensive. If the van is driving great but transmission service is due or the oil is turning brown, I don't always drop the valve body. Only if there are shifting issues, even minor, then I'll drop the valve body and probably replace the conductor plate.

We've been through a few!!! One of our videos shows a bent one we absolutely ruined! Since then we bought a Craftsman for regular torquing. We've had a small one measuring inch/pounds for years and we have a giant one just for these harmonic balancer replacements. I think it was about $300 and is 42 inches long. I can get you a link if interested, but I'll need to look at the wrench I have. It is not a famous or familiar brand.

Is there any other spot I can search for it?

What country is your was your van originally sold in?

@@FloridaVanMan It was imported from spain

Some dealerships are great! Others won't hesitate to tell you that you need a new transmission when all you might need is a few ounces of fluid. Incorrect gear ratio can come up from low transmission fluid level or more serious problems. This is common since our vans don't have a transmission dipstick. Only some garages have this Mercedes-Daimler specific tool so all others give a best guess and say "OK"! Another common problem is the Transmission fluid wicking up the wires to the control module under the seat. This can be cleaned with brake cleaner and given a few minutes to dry before reconnecting the battery. If they try to tell you it needs a new transmission, they might be right. But get a second opinion if you can. I have been told this symptom of resting a few minutes then feeling OK for a mile or less is a very bad sign. I don't know of any shops in Louisiana but any shop can put in a Jasper remanufactured transmission. You might be looking at $3500 for the transmission shipped and another $1500 to put it in with fluid and shop supplies included.

@@FloridaVanMan Many thanks Mr. Van Man. Amazing to get your help so quick. I'll check for TCM fluid contamination now.

Got some news today. Dodge service writer says their transmission tech reports "3rd gear is burnt" and trans needs to be replaced. It's reading Code P0733. As far as I can tell, that 's an OBD II generic code. And it has several possible causes from what I see online. It doesn't necessarily mean trans has to be replaced. I expected they'd have an advanced scanner that would read Sprinter codes and provide more detail about the situation. How come I'm getting an OBD generic code only I wonder? They haven't linspected fluid/filter condition or opened up the trans. How can they know for sure that 3rd gear has "burnt"? Does the fact that I just lost power on the highway all of sudden, and never got it back, confirm the code? I want to have a look at the fluid/filter. They want to charge $350 for that and say I'd be wasting my money. I don't exactly doubt the diagnosis but they're not backing it up enough for me to trust it. So how does this sound?

@@richardgenz7406 Sounds like you got the afore mentioned dealership that won't hesitate to guess & rob you blind while replacing expensive parts. I am not a trained professional and I am sometimes wrong... but P0733 tells me they have their DBRiii setup for NCV3 Sprinters (906) and you have a T1N Sprinter (901.6;902.6;903.6...). Without the KWP protocols they might as well be using a magic 8-ball. The accusal of "3rd gear" is also curious. We don't have gears to burn up, we have clutches and valves. 3rd gear doesn't use the same clutches or valves as you would have been using at highway speed in 5th gear. Clutch K3 would be logical to have burned, but a service writer better understand the difference between a clutch and a gear! On the other hand, I found only more confirmation that this symptom is always* terminal, requiring rebuild, assuming you have an appropriate fluid level in the transmission. I would not be comfortable with the shop if they are not willing to dip the transmission in my presence, showing me the oil is measurable (the stick reaches it) and the fluid is brown before agreeing to replacement. If the fluid is too low to be sampled on the dip stick it should be filled and driving attempted, engine running in gear for no less that 90 seconds. If fluid is extremely low and the torque converter is drained of fluid the van will not move until it refills. This may take a minute in gear when the overall level is too low. It may never happen when fluid is extremely low. If the fluid is still very pink and you have not had it recently serviced, nothing inside is burned. In short, they may be right and you might need a new transmission. But if they have not verified you have at least minimal fluid and have not inspected the filter, get a second opinion. Fluid does not need to be full, just measurable, reached by the dipstick's tip.

@@richardgenz7406 The reason they want to charge $350 for 15 a minute inspection is because they want to scare you away from a minor repair after they guessed big-problem. $350 is RIDICULOUS for inspecting transmission prior to removing it. That is the price for a new filter and 6 liters of fluid, installed with a trans service. Why would they charge a full service when not adding a new filter or fluid? To scare you away from the inspection that might prove the assumption was wrong.

Million Mile Sprinter or amzn.to/2ChBrf2 You will also want 8.5 quarts of this amzn.to/2OwfJ9V

That is not a mileage concern. If the van is driving correctly and sifting as it should, I would not replace the conductor plate. Clean everything best you can while it is apart, new fluid and seals on the electrical connector (or new connector).

Hey! I just bought a 2005 t1n and in the past couple days it’s started getting stuck in a certain gear. I would turn the van off and start up again, it would occasionally work but as of today it’s completely stuck in 2nd while driving. I removed the driver seat and the TCM had oil on the plugs. After cleaning that with brake cleaner it still had the problem of being in second. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

I’m having a similar problem. Sometimes everything is normal then it’ll stick in 2nd or sometimes 3rd (and won’t allow manual tap shift) until I turn it off and restart it. Sometimes goes a few miles with normal shifting before it sticks. Cleaned contacts on TCM under seat - No luck. Just did trans oil change and replaced the TCM connector plug - Still no luck. Any suggestions?

That's strange, Amazon claims fitment for a 2006 Dodge Sprinter which is what I put it in in this video. It is the same part for 2002-2008 Sprinter vans so the one we've linked in the description is the way to go!

I do. My book says service it once at 80,000 then never again. I had trouble somewhere over 300,000 and thought I cooked it. A full service with filter and cleaning restored nearly 100% and I have driven another 200,000 miles since then without issue.

@@FloridaVanMan thanks a lo for the reply. Would you do it as preventative maintenance as well ? There is no apparent issue except a leak in the connector seal (located next to the trans. Forgot what it’s called).

Krylon plastic paint in spray cans works very well for us.

black wood stain works the best

As much trouble as you are having getting separation, getting alignment will be X10. Before it is too late put a few bolts back in the bell housing and pull them as a set. The weight will balance at injector #4. Four bolts on the drive shaft and four bolts on the transmission mount. Disconnect the wire to the transmission and the linkage to the gear selector. I think the trouble you are having is the engine needs to come up to leave the van, and forward to leave the transmission. The transmission is preventing up, and the van is preventing forward, so nothing comes apart.

Thanks for experienced input. Motor and transmission came out well. Now for the transfer of parts from the old to the new. Your latest video of injector pulls was timely and helpful!

Unfortunately I cannot say. We didn't get any manual transmission Sprinters here in the states. Maybe one day I'll be able to import one.

Here's the info for manual. Manual transmission oil (1.8 liters) MB 235.10 MB A00 1 989 26 03 10 Here is how to: sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/7205/

Yes, when we made this video we used Meyel fluid. That has become impossible to source and we have been using Shell 134 ever since. We tried Fuch's Titan and found it to be thicker, causing valve shudder (RSN) in a van that did not have valve shudder previously.

The only maintenance you can do to the torque converter is draining the fluid. It's the same transmission fluid as the rest of the transmission. When you drain the torque converter, you will have to put more transmission fluid in than if you just drain the pan & replace the filter. The extra fluid that it needs just goes into the pan and is fed into it once the engine is running.

Do you need a new washer when replacing torque converter drain plug?

Where in Florida are you? Reach me through our Patreon page. Join here: floridavanman.com/donate/

You are undoubtedly in second gear, transmission limp mode. The code may not clear without a compatible code reader and will return if problem is not solved.

which engine did not have injector seal issues?

@@toobglued Merc Dodge & Fr8_R are all the same van made in Dusseldorf Germany until '07 when they went to S.C. and changed everything. The '02-'06 have the same design, head, and injector concerns, with some major accessory differences. '02-'03 have issues with the mechanical fuel pumps, vacuum activated turbo and a big intake manifold that gets in the way of simple engine maintenance. We are big fans of the '04-'06 with electric fuel pumps and electric actuated turbo with smaller intake manifold and better EGR. We prefer to dress them all as Mercedes despite whatever is on the title. Only the plastic logos are different from one brand to the next. The injector seal issues aren't as bad as some people think. If you look under the hood occasionally, and move some plastic covers to see the working bits, you will catch trouble before it gets ugly. If it gets ugly, a can of oven cleaner and $8 in parts will fix the common injector seal issue called Black Death. I call it Black Inconvenience.

@@FloridaVanMan wow thanks !!

@@FloridaVanMan And the post 2006 is not desired? There is a 2008 dually that is very clean for sale with reasonable miles I was considering. Thoughts on the later models 07-08? Thanks in advance :)

@@toobglued Sorry for the late response. Post 2006 the diesel option was a V6 with DPF and later DEF requirements. These emissions systems are notorious for expensive repairs down the line and I would not recommend them for the faint of heart or DIY mechanic.

I don't use carb cleaner for anything after a few instances of it eating the surface I was cleaning, or one too close to it. I don't recommend getting brake cleaner on painted surfaces or gaskets if it can be avoided, but it won't eat them like carb cleaner. Your Sprinter does not have a carb so that should leave your garage. It does have brakes. That's all I'm saying.

Yes, if I had better terms, perhaps. Like a plug on an appliance cord and the plug in a wall, one goes into the other, but we call them both plugs. The cylindrical part with two O-rings is often called the connector, but that also can refer to the plastic end holding dangling wires. Which way is right and wrong will be different regionally.

Looks like they changed the part compatibility on that item. I think it is fine, but try this one: amzn.to/3fAHyun

Its a 2006

Sounds like 'shift-flare' and you can adapt by letting off the throttle just a bit at that point, letting the next gear grab before continuing to accelerate. The only fix is a Transmission rebuild. It may ride a long time without getting worse but if you need to fix it tell these folks I sent ya' www.silverstartransmission.com/

I've read that Metal bits foul the shifting solenoid Magnets and Cause Shift Flare, some folks claim that rebuilt or Cleaned Valve bodys will fix that,,, I've got it too and will post how it works for me.. Loving the RSN for 21 years..

@@gregmorse9862 yes please let me know if it helps..

Also the internal torque bits are t30, not t27

Bigger hammer! Level two is my joke meaning "the little one didn't work" and a persuasion tool is just a hammer.

Correct. My tools were not in the proper places and I didn't notice it was a bigger bit where the 30 should have been.

Well, we can come see you next month. We love to travel and earning a little coin on the road is always welcome. But the travel costs would be heavy. Send me an email Bill@FloridaVanMan.com we will see what we can work out.

@@FloridaVanMan ok let me know the date you be in town next month and we can discuss details thanks again

What do you mean only got to 3 and pass from there? Are you saying it shifts only 3 gears? Are you sure it is shifting at all? Some folks mis aligning the linkage shown at 8:55 in the video. Others forget to hook the wire back onto the transmission.

The NAG1 transmission with that conductor plate is used in other Mercedes vehicles and some Jeeps that have a more traditional transmission dipstick that comes with the car.

@@FloridaVanMan I see thanks for clearing that up

Luckily, the '08 does not have DEF, only DPF. Particulate filter but no fluid until I think 2010.

Tranny fluid that is

@@ExclusiveK9Alberta Trans fluid after a full service including the torque converter usually takes 9 liters, +/- half a liter. Sorry for the miscommunication. YT showed me this comment on a different video this morning, the manual filter regen video.

Thanks

There are a few shops in Florida that I can suggest and one that I will warn you about. Stay far away for Sprinter Van City in Fort Pierce. I can replace the conductor plate and service transmission if you are near Daytona-Orlando. We can schedule for about August 7th =/-.

​@@FloridaVanMan Thank you so much!!! Well, I was hoping you might know of somewhere a little closer to the Lake Okeechobee Area. I will keep looking to see if I find anywhere closer and let you know! Thanks again! Cheers!

If the torque converter was drained, 8 quarts then drive to warm and measure with dipstick. Due to options, different vans will need closer to 9 quarts.

The screw is not all that important. The connectors are usually wet inside but if the O-rings on that connector are not up to the task fluid will wick to the TCM under the driver seat. We have a video about that. Search our channel for "Should this be wet".

@@FloridaVanMan Hello, thanks for your fast answer, I saw the video, my pin connector still oil leaking, the connector and the o rings was new one, you recommend found a new o rings little bigger, is possible to remove the pin connector avoiding drain oil in the oil pan? I appreciate a lot your advice.

@@karenm6914 We can pull the wire-side for connector out without loosing fluid. It is often wet in there. Removing the next part, the connector in the transmission, will drain some fluid unless you are parked on a good hill. if the seal is not good I would replace the connector. Even knowing the bolt hole in the conductor plate is stripped, I would still be confident with a new plug and the O-rings it comes with. When removing the old plug be sure to get all the O-rings out of the transmission then press a new connector with rings Firmly into the hole. May need some levers to really push that connector fully into the transmission. floridavanman.com/donate/

@@FloridaVanMan Thanks a lot, tomorrow I will change the O rings with a new ones., Really I appreciate your time and effort to explain to me the best way to fix the problem.

I never heard or read of any one doing transmission flush on a Sprinter. It seems unnecessary with no potential for any gain.

That could be transmission, drive shaft, or hopefully not an engine vibration. Could be a simple as a broken motor mount or transmission mount, so that would be my first place to look. Put a thick board on a jack, and jack up the transmission a little bit to see if the mount starts to stretch and pull, or does it separate easily. Then do the same for the engine, looking at the two engine mounts. Our engine basics video shows the engine mount locations. They are silver wings on my painted engine. Next check would be trying to wiggle the drive shaft while laying under the van. looking for play in the universal joints at each end. Lastly, I'd have you send a video of the problem, taken from the passengers seat because I don't want to encourage driving and filming at the same time, and a short video of the engine at idle, so I can hear it under the hood.

A short video/audio clip might help identify the noise. You can open a 1-on-1 conversation with us by adding a note to a small donation. All donations help keep the videos coming. venmo.com - @FloridaVanMan cash.app/login - $FloridaVanMan www.zellepay.com - FloridaVanMan www.paypal.com/paypalme/FloridaVanMan

Fresh filter and fluid should resolve the issue. Don’t forget the torque converter. In the event it doesn’t, I would look at the valve body/conductor plate.

Florida Van Man 👍🏽

Yup...this transmission is shared with other Mercedes and Chrysler cars. The cars have a different style transmission dipstick that’s either always present or straight up in a different location. We showed this in the video. The difference is in the recepticle

How to check transmission fluid level with U shape conductor? If it is slipping.

Yes, the transmission remained the same past 2007, NAG1 722.6.

Yes, we always put the ramps on the downhill end of the driveway and only preliminary cold-fluid checks are done on ramps. We test drive to achieve 80 degree transmission fluid temp and park on level street for final fluid checks.

Yes, send me an email Bill at FloridaVanMan dot com.

I think it should be a Torx 30, but we find it is often messed-up and can be pulled with a hex-key (aka Allen wrench). Yours would not be the first plug that just won't come out. In that case get a lot of cardboard to protect the driveway and catch all the oil you can when you drop the oil pan. Once the pan is off you can get at the top and turn it out, and replace it.

There is a small hex bolt deep inside the 13-pin socket. Something around 8mm? The bolt threads into a brass insert molded into the plastic conductor plate, so it’s ridiculously easy to over tighten and break, allowing the bolt to spin (and the socket to back out...) Then you need to secure the plug with baling wire or get a new conductor plate... Torque this bolt to JUST past snug. The pan drain takes a 5mm or 6mm Allen (hex). Clean the hole first to get full engagement or you’ll round it out. Like the rear diff, if the drain has never been removed, it may be seized and refuse to budge. -dave

It's a 7mm and it's about 1-2 inches deep, Tighten just over finger tight... Also, there are (2) (TWO) O-RINGS on the Connector, (LOOK at the New One) he only shows (1) One that he removes - There is another one INSIDE that has to come out before you put the new one on....Hey loving's the RSN for 21 years...

Either the connector is not pushed in deep enough or the conductor plate is stripped where the screw screws-in. Be sure both O-rings came out with the old connector and if needed, force the plug into place with a board/lever.

Thanks I’ll check and make sure it didn’t get stripped. When you say a board to force the plug in, I take it that means it might take a good amount of force to get this all the way in? Like should I not be able to see the O-Rings anymore?

@@michaelrodriguez2741 Oh, definitely should not see O-rings when connector is fully inserted. It helps me to line-up by turning the 'lock' down/unlocked then align it where I can just get a finger behind it to close/lock it. That should have it lined-up and ready to push on. Some aftermarket plugs fit better than others and I have had at least one that made me get a 2x4 and lever against a solid brace on the van. We should NOT need to do this so be sure everything else is lined-up, oily, and clean before using force. Using the center bolt to "pull the connector in" never works and only strips the hole. But I often push and wiggle it in as far as I can, snug the bolt then push and wiggle some more. Repeat as needed until it won't wiggle. If you can still pull your connector out, look at the end of the screw and be sure it doesn't have a nut stuck on it. if it does you will need to remove the nut and say a little prayer.

Yes, it is MB approved for all North American Sprinters 2002-2007 and beyond, to what year I don't know. The NAG1 transmission is the same in all of them thru 2007 at least. Over the pond they have manual transmissions and other auto-gearbox options that I am not sure what fluid is needed.

@@FloridaVanMan Thanks !

It will fit. The NAG1 transmission remained the same and was continued into the NCV3 models. The eBays seller just did not discover all the other vehicles that the part fits, and listed it for only the most popular ('04-'06 T1N).

@@FloridaVanMan as I thought, just had to be sure. Thank you kindly

It a cheap torque wrench I bought on eBay many years ago. The logo on the handle fell off some time ago too so I can't tell you a brand. It measures in Inch/pounds rather than foot/pounds.

@@FloridaVanMan Okay, thank you. Great content, looking forward to watching more Sprinter videos!

Improper receiving end on the conductor plate, which can be see at 8:05

Thanks for the really good video. I’ve got a 2006 Dodge Sprinter 2500 and when I trued to check the transmission fluid level the full length of dipstick went into the tube. I’m assuming from your video that the “stop” is broken. If so, where can I buy a new “stop?” I Called the Mercedes dealer in town and the Sprinter mechanic said there was no stop. Said he just puts his thumb on the bottom of the red handle at the end of the dipstick and that’s his stop.

@@pinepaul9920 Oh MY!!! I would love to record a shop technician saying that! The difference between needing fluid and too much is about a quarter of an inch so he better have his thumb laboratory calibrated often! LOL~ Many Sprinters have this problem, with the stick-stop missing. I think it usually comes from a used or remanufactured transmission, because the NAG1 trans is used in many vehicles. Most of them have a traditional dip stick that registers from the top of the tube and stays with the vehicle. Our fill tubes do not fit uniformly into the transmissions, so this is not a reliable way to check levels on Sprinters. I suspect one reason the fill tube is not uniform is because the transmissions were removed and placed in the cargo area for shipping (light trucks only, not passenger vans). They did this to avoid the Chicken-Tax on light truck imports to North America. Fun Facts: The Chicken Tax is a 25 percent tariff on light trucks (and originally on potato starch, dextrin, and brandy) imposed in 1964 by the United States under President Lyndon B. Johnson in response to tariffs placed by France and West Germany on importation of U.S. They are still jumping through unnecessary hoops today to avoid this unusual tax.

@@FloridaVanMan Thanks! Its been some time but to follow up. What do you think caused that? Could it have been caused from the dip stick being stuck in too far? The reason I ask is I tried checking the level of mine and the dip stick got stuck and while I was able to get it out it was unsettling how much pulling force was required. I read on some threads that the cheaper dip sticks are not built as robust as the OEM and between that and improper technique can cause it to get stuck or break off. I was thinking that is what caused the part you said was messing up? Before I try to check again I will double check the length of the stick v.s. what the distance is between the top of the fill tube til where it hits the pan. Thanks for this video. There are not many on the 2.7 5cly 2002-2006. Mine is an RV.

@@ibcrypto6139 If the transmission was replaced or wrong conductor plate installed at service, the dipstick stopper may be missing. Other cars that used the same transmission didn't use the same stick and stopper. When that stopper is missing your stick can bend over and go way too deep. Pulling it back out past that unnatural bend is difficult and can break off even the best quality stick.

Between Daytona and Orlando.

That sounds similar to what we found in a van we helped get going last month. At a campground, we replaced the conductor plate, filter and fluid. Of course, we also cleaned the valve body as best we could in the situation and interrogated the computer with DAS. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gNOWqdSHlsDGf4k.html

@@FloridaVanMan Thanks a lot

They are tight if the red tab is still in there, but it will come off with a sharp tug.

We put in 8.5 quarts the drive a bit and check level. Add up to another quart if needed.

I believe so. While most of the van changed between model years 2006-2007, body, engine, breaks, etc. the NAG1, or 722.6 transmission was continued.

The transmission dipstick is a "tool" that is not included with the van purchase. We have a link for the proper one at floridavanman.com/links/

Between the beach and the mouse, Daytona to left of us, Mickey to our right, here we are, stuck in the middle again.

I’m in Jupiter FL ... and I need to get this done ... I’m new here and I don’t know any good sprinter shops or Mechanics

@@reefgameaquatics9285 Sadly, I don't know any good shops in the area either. I can tell you a few horror stories of some you definitely want to avoid. That is why I have become my own Sprinter mechanic gradually over the 14 years of owning my daily driver. With half a million miles I must disclose it is not the original engine, but a fine automobile none-the-less. Mike and I are not mechanics by trade, but we have a flat driveway, all the needed tools, and willing to lend a hand if you want to come this way. Depending on your mobility and budget, we could also come to you. Is there an issue/symptoms with the van or are you just looking at good maintenance practices?

@@reefgameaquatics9285 I so agree with you Reef, I didn't find good mechanics around Jupiter area that know how to work on T1N sprinter. Now I have transmission problems. I wish we could get in touch with Florida Van Man. To get some work done and learn more.

Igy Valy he has told me to come to them but it’s a 3hr + ride... maybe we can talk to him and have him come down for both of us

I assume you are being sarcastic and funny. Three and a half years of viewer comments disagree with you.

​@@FloridaVanManI agree with him. I watched the whole video and you didn't show up to my house to do the work for me. Not helpful