I've watched the Pakistani foundry clips on the tubes, you need to compact that flask with your bare feet while wearing a nightshirt. It'll come out perfect every time.

If it was easy, they wouldn't need an expert. Trust the process. Excellent video, looking forward to the next round. Good luck!

Appreciate you also shown the down part of mold making, this give an honest view of the difficulties involved. Love what're doing, thanks for recording it.

When the capstan was being dismantled, it was this component that put up the biggest fight. Causing head aches seems to be part of it's character so this new one is on course to be just like the original.

Ive been following this channel, and the tally ho project separately for years. Kind of cool to see these two communities cross paths. This looks like an amazingly difficult project. I have no idea how they made the original part over 100 years ago... its insane to think about.

I am so impressed with the determination and patience required to execute exceptional skills.

VERY impressed ! Was holding my 78 summers old breath right thru the building process, Watching from N32W64 Bermuda .

I have been in some specialty one-off foundries and these struggles are real. Trying to save the history and keep old machines alive and kicking is undervalued work. I can truly appreciate the skill, expertise and patience that you have exhibited and have no doubts you will prevail. So glad to have found your content.

I appreciate just what a difficult job this is your doing 🤷🏻, My wife’s grandfather was a pattern maker for first the American Locomotive Company in Schenectady NY where he graduated from his apprentice school. After he worked there for many years he went to work for the General Electric Company as a senior pattern maker and retired from there after many years. A week after he retired he sold all his tools to a young pattern maker (2 full wooden chests for 200$) I hunted the guy down years later when told the pattern maker had come down with MS sadly. I purchased all the tools for a considerable amount more than the 200$ but was ecstatic plus they were still all engraved with his name. I thought it was so sad no one in the immediate family son especially had no interest in the tools by which had made the living for them all. Same today even with his grandchildren and great grandchildren. Seems so wrong to see them go to any one other than family someday.

What a lot of experts here.. telling a foundry expert how to do his daily job. Probably know as much about the process as myself, after having watched some amateurs making castings that weigh maybe 5 pounds. I know nothing about this trade. But the keyboard heroes do... I came here after I learned the capstan went to Keith Rucker, then I saw you were going to do the casting and joined. I'm still here, I'm still with Keith's channel. And though I have nothing with boats, machining or foundries, all three have captivated me. I'll stay. I wish you lots of success. Hug the dogs. Greetings from the Netherlands. Edit: I forgot Clarke the Pattern Guy. Still following him as well.

Thank you for getting out your videos. I enjoy watching the progress and failures

You know how to make riveting videos! Working at the upper limits of your shop is always a challenge but ingenuity, patience and experience will pull you through and most of us will not mind how many videos it takes (so long as you stay sane)!

From the building of the pattern to investment of the pattern, this is one high risk process! As a lost wax casting technician my hat is off to you guys, I hope the next attempt goes well.

For one-off casting I like the Lost-Foam method. I get good results, and you don't have to worry about draft angles and cope and drag issues.

When I was in High School shop class I had an opportunity to some simple foundry work, nothing like what you're doing. I know how hard it is to do. It teaches you patience.

Nerve wracking watching this work! So humbling. Thanks for the work!

I admire your tenacity. It looks like one of those things where many complicated things have to go perfect and any one going sideways messes the whole thing up. I know the finished product will be worth all your hard work. Thanks for the video.

It’s been really interesting watching how you tackle this problem. Man, it’s complex and hard work. Thanks for sharing. 🇨🇦 Tally Ho is in good hands.

I had absolutely no idea how delicate and tough this process would be…nor how much detailed knowledge and skill. Fascinating. Thank you so much for sharing. Go,go Windy Hill Foundry.

I admire anyone's patience to do this type of work.

People don't appreciate how heavy rammed up molding sand is - much heavier than it looks, and those flasks looked heavy. Even a 12x12 cope and drag weighs closer to 100# than 50... And this is a challenging 3 piece mold as well. No wonder it got the second most bleeps I've ever heard on this channel! Looks to me like the snatch block is causing the flask to lift suddenly and slightly crooked, despite your best efforts. Tricky one. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

I was holding my breath on each attempt. I have every confidence you will get this thing done. Best of luck and thanks to those that helped.

This is a superb and engaging way to help us see pattern making. The action while words are spoken keeps me glued. Now I know what my Croatian friend’s father did for a living.

The old chain hoists give you surgical precision lifting and lowering! Fred R. Coffing got it right way back in 1930s.

After all these years you can still learn something. Enjoying your channel.

There's a foundry where I live that's up for sale. It's at least a hundred years old and 6 acres in total. I hope they find a buyer for it. America needs to hang onto these skills.

I once tried to cast a part that looked like a dog dish and the sand kept breaking off just like yours. A guy told me to ram the mold the opposite way so the large hunk of sand filling the dish was now sitting up instead of hanging and it worked well. First I rammed up a flat layer of sand and then filled the pattern and scraped it off flat. Then flipped the pattern over while full of sand and set it on the flat layer of sand. Then I rapped the pattern and removed it then applied more parting just and set the pattern back on. THen I put on the other half of the mold and rammed it up. When i seperated it, the pattern stayed in the top half of the mold and then I rapped it and removed it.

Broke my heart to see the sand stuck in the mold. Thanks for sharing the video I know it's a lot more work to do that.

I know you dont want the weight but I think you need steel or cast iron flask and it needs a trunnion mounted on the center section and you need a spreader with hooks to lift it by the trunnions so you can roll it over. You would need a better crane to lift it though. The wood is going to flex too much being that thin and will always cause the sand to fall apart. The only way I see the wood working is if you use chemical set sand. If you used that, you would be done already. We used to make some flasks at work the were cast steel and they had trunnions and were about the size of a casket. They were for casting parts for railroad cars.

I worked in foundry for years and overall you have the right idea . When ramming up sand you need support cross bars and holding hooks to support removal of each section of the mould. Graphite powder is a great release to brush on pattern and joints. Also venting of moulds is important to prevent blow holes in casting. Hope all goes well. Bear in mind to use sprigs in thick sections of casting to equalise cooling and prevent cracking of casting.

Great patience and determination, and yet so few censures. With your knowledge and experience, I have no doubt you will succeed with this project. Good luck and stay safe.

Ahh brings back memories, my high school had a foundry next to the wood and machine shop. I must have done dozens of patterns for a pheasant for my dad for Father's day. I feel your pain. But finally got a good mode and he still has that bird. Loved that class.

Ive also seen illustrations of using turnbuckles for lifting mold sections or even drawing large patterns. Like a three or four point lifting chain with the turnbuckles in place of chains connected to a main ring. That would allow for fine adjustment. I also saw an illustration in "Metalcasting" by C. W. Ammen of a flask with screws mounted to the sides of the flask. They were used to jack the mold apart for a very slow but controlled draw .

Hi Eddie, I’m a lineman and did some work for Entergy for some storm trouble years ago.. and also former LEO.

I remember using a resin in the sand and using a core.😊 during my apprenticeship. Many years ago.😊

complex pattern setup. awesome to see the help arrive for you.

You'll git it!!! I have faith in you!!!👍👍👍👍

What I know about casting one could put in a thimble with room left over. It seems to me that the low temperatures are preventing the sand from adhering to itself, so every time you do a pull, the sand just separates. It seems to me the biggest obstacle is the below freezing temperature.

Many of those machine parts were made by slicing the mold vertically, making only two part molds. Of course there is no easy way to make a complex casting, but I have found that I can cheat in really difficult cases by using high strength silver brazing to join parts of a multiple casting where there are large areas of contact and castings must not be overheated. High strength (not silver solder used in plumbing) silver brazing is often stronger than the parent metal, when used with clamps and overall heat, makes a joint only microscopically larger than the original if repairing a broken casting. I used it in a heated jig to connect large width bandsaw blades that had to flex around a large pulley top and bottom, with enough tension to hold the blade absolutely vertical when under full load. Several tons.

Difficult things are ………difficult - well done guys.

I'm guessing the videos are running behind and you have this figured out by now. A trick I use on deep parts, I start the initial separation with wedges ( shim shingles ) between the flasks. It gives good control you can slowly work one through at each corner, once you have it separated a 1/4 inch or so much easier to lift off.

Thanks for sharing the failures as well. Very educational. I'll be watching even if this turns out to be a ten-part video!

The beauty with green sand is its kind to patterns and you can just knock it out and start fresh with plan B.

Fantastic 👏👏👏 - I know just enough about casting to appreciate just how difficult a job you’ve taken on there guys, keep at it. (DT won’t make ‘America Great Again’, it’s craftsmen like you.)

This just shows how difficult this type craft is. But then again, if it was easy, anyone could do it. Great video!

How frustrating it must be for you that this mould isn't playing ball. However. I am sure you will find a way to make it work. Thank you for showing us mere mortals just how difficult it is to achieve this mould. Patient's will prevail. Thanks again for the video.

Good grief, that’s a monster of a mould to pull. No wonder it fought you all the way Clark. We know you’ll get there.

Kudos to the original craftsmen over a hundred years ago who couldn’t benefit from science of the past century but still got the job done - it’s a pity they didn’t upload a video to KZfaq.

By posting this failure shows that you have a lot of integrity, honesty and self confidence. A lot of guys will only post the successes. I’m looking forward to the next chapter.

You’ve got the patience of a saint, Clark. I was holding my breath a couple of times.

I used to do a bit of foundry work in Junior and Senior High. Mostly aluminum and some brass, never anything that big or complex. I was feeling for you every time that sand let go. I can’t wait to see how you’re going to work this out. You’re over my head already. Good luck. Dave

It might make you feel better if you ask Leo how things went the first time he tried to pour the keel.

I've said it before but...Clark, be careful. There's a shortage of good foundrymen in this world. It'd be a pity to damage you. 😁

You’ll get it! I know ya will bud. Thanks to Eddy & Sam & all. 🎉🎉🎉🎉

Fascinating. Respect for the hard and excellent work. 🎉🎉🎉!

There is nothing like the satisfaction of making parts out of molten metal. The finished part will be around long after we’re gone. Success is coming my brothers from a different mother, and father.

Like the other comments. Thank you. Success is sometimes well earned. Imagine Leo watching. Thanks for your fans for helping! That's awesome! I've no doubt you will get it. Great video!!

Super to watch it's great to see the effort that goes into such work and the skill to get it right good job and great video 👍

This is an amazing process to watch, who knew it was so involved and difficult to pull off.

I'm glad that you know when to quit for the night. My late wife majored in jewelry and on night around 11, tried 1 solder joint to many when she was too tired to think through the process and ever after the family phrase was "Stop before you melt the locket"

Loved the guest help! I am in CA or I would love to drive over and help! Just joined your patreon!

As I watched Dave build this pattern, I was wondering how it was going to work. I'm still wondering, but I'm no foundryman. Keep at it. You've done it before, you can do it again!

For this application you should mold the inside seprate but you'll need a binder for it to hold and the drag molded as a flat to set the pattern on as it's reassembled. In other cases an old squirrel cage fan ring of verying sizes can be used as an anchor for protruding parts.

Love to see how mold are made! Such an important skill that needs to be passed onto new generations. Eager to see how you learn from this failed attempt. Maybe grease the pins so they don't get stuck? I'm sure you'll try to repack to not have to be flipped as well. So many aspects to consider.

THANKS CLARK AND YOUR FRIENDS.....Looking to the next video.... Old F-4 Phantom 2 Shoe🇺🇸

I have a hobby foundry. I usually make 2-5 aluminum castings a year. I feel your grief. Never seen one this complicated. You must have the patience of Jobe.

Your tenacity is worth bottling. I guess it all par of the course for your trade. But it still leaves a layman like me in awe.

Bummer Clarke. I was sure you were going to get a good mould by the end of this video. Never mind. It's always a learning experience. Regards, Preso

Such impressive dogged spirit ! go you guys! You'll get it. Kindest regards and best wishes from Scotland.

It's the courage that impresses me.

This looks incredibly difficult. Thanks for sharing the challenge

Thank you for another great video. Stay safe out there. Cheers

Very complicated looking. Y’all sure do work hard and do nice work.

Thanks for sharing Clark

Numb to disappointment Haha That reminds me when I used to have childhood friends that would never show up to appointments. After so many times there's no disappointment

That is a difficult pattern, indeed. Good luck with you continuing efforts.

You all do nice work! Thanks for the video! 🙏

I love this process. My castings are asliver compared to this beauty. The mold/core you have made takes the same care and attention my little 4 to 10 ozt pieces take are exactly the same as the ones my pours take but being that big leaves them to larger possibilities of larger voids etc. They are the troubles they make for me eh! Occasionally I will have a look/see person visiting whiIe I am working on the Petrobond and they ask if I have to hammer the sand that hard and my reply is simple, , , YUP ! One thing I have noticed is by running a saw cut along the horizontal part of the flask liner side they have never had a sand slip in from the outer walls. You have a bunch more experience than I do but it has sure worked well for my sorry old butt eh. As I teach others on the best way to pour Silver or Gold, Brass or Copper the reason for their pours have soooo many voids are they have used far too much parting powder. With this pour a soft hired broom is needed to apply just the right amount of baby powder for your pieces.I have always put in what those that pour more than myself a LOT of vents/risers in each flask. So far that thinking has never let me down. At the end I feel a bit for you and your help but knowing I am not the only one that has the process just not work out and have to start over. It will be great to see the next video.

Bro on these big molds you really should be using sodium silicate AKA water glass it would make your life so much easier

Nice to see warts and all. As craftsmen we often get fooled into an illusion of perfection watching flawless edits. Accidents, mishaps, and mistakes happen constantly in the real world. Being and expert and being good at your job means being able to consume these mishaps and mistakes and being able to stop when it’s time to stop, recoup, replan, recalculate, and make a better attempt the second time. Rome wasn’t built in a day. I digress, I’m not telling this to one who doesn’t already know this though. Just refreshing to see someone who isn’t afraid to leave in their oops instead of skipping this episode entirely and giving us the successful pour edit.

I used to deliver to a foundry making every manhole cover and service surround and lid in the country. Roughly decsribed. Buddy you just are not equipt to handle those moulds. They had an upside down T for lifting heavy moulds with an electric gantry. They lift the whole deal to make it reset under the hoist , set it down when it ceased to swing and the unbolt the boxes. Then lift it directly up gentle and smooth. Plus the sides of your plug is not getting white powder on it. Good luck.

I appreciate the effort involved with these vids - thanks for the effort.

Other comments have stolen some of my thunder. I will cheer ideas that will prove helpful. A chain hoist for lifting. Yey! It will hold its position. Multiple lifting points. Yey! Four would seem to be most suitable. Easing two frames apart a little at a time when opening. Yey! Now my suggestions. The four lifting points should be eyebolts. Why? They reduce friction on the rope sling that we will be using (dispense with that webbing). Drill holes and install the eyebolts, tighten with the eyes parallel to the frame's mating surface. Obtain a piece of rope 30-40 feet long, knot the two ends together to form a large sling. Use this by dropping it to the floor over the frame to be lifted. Take a bight of the sling near one eye and thrust it through the eye and then over the crane hook. Repeat three times. When lifted the frame will remain level. Why are all your frames made with a pin and a hole on each side? A pin and hole on one side coupled with a pin and SLOT on the other makes reassembly a lot easier.

The black art of sand casting. Sometimes very frustrating indeed.

When I first saw the pattern being made, I immediately wondered about using a lost wax or lost styrofoam process. No doubt there are many tips and tricks used by the old masters that are lost on us.

40 years ago I worked for a company called Foundry and Flask that is no longer in business. One of the things we built into some of the small cope and drags where tapered alignment pins. It made the assembly and disassembly easier in casting. One of the problems was you had to fit the pins and holes to one another at the same time. It made the machining a little tedious.

I was wondering if petrobond might be a better solution. Anyway, it's an excellent video. Sometimes problems arise, but it's all part of the process. Can't wait to see this poured and installed on the deck of TallyHo. I can't wait for your next attempt.

As a resident of the State of Georgia I can attest that chewing on alligator tail is a legitimate thing for a dog to be doing on a Saturday afternoon

I suspect the cold weather has indeed affected the performance of the sand. Cold air simply doesn't hold much moisture, if that makes a difference.

Patients is a virtue

my one suggestion would be that the interior/ bottom section is the most important, woth the most detail and features, the exterior and top portion can be more rough and then machined after the fact.

I would try to put a whole bunch of vertical rods (ribbed or capital I-shaped) in the core to keep it together. Alternatievely a cilindrical shaped wire mesh

Tough time today, hopefully you can get it done tomorrow. Good luck with it 🤞

The theory about temperature makes sense to me- oil gets much, much more viscous in cold temperatures, and it could well be that it's preventing the sand from bonding to itself. What about bringing a propane heater to the area when you're ramming?

Wow! I had no idea.

This seems a very hard way to go about this job. Modern materials are available to make this type of job a breeze and not expensive. Your the expert I’m a arm chair observer. Good luck

I hollered before I was hurt. NOW you got slats

I worked in a foundry making manholes and lids in 1969, i left that job and went to work in an ice plant. True story. I don't miss eithrr job.

Great try, you will get it.

The thin wooden moulds are producing too much distortion upon decoupling. This causes the sand the break. Suggest using thicker wood sections plus reinforcement around the moulding tool joints. Furthermore, upon hoisting the moulds, attach 4-off lifting brackets plus straps at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions at equally applied tension. This will stabilise the removal straight vertically up. Lastly, to ensure a smooth liftoff, coat the guide pins with an abundant dose of linseed oil to prevent lock up.