Update 6/21/2022: The forces on the A2 pulley we mention in this video (280 N, 400 N, 450 N), etc. are potentially outdated or under-estimated. Other research suggests climbers' A2 pulleys can withstand anywhere from 380-1000 N or more. We will be making an updated video about taping in the near future to clear this up!

Main reason I use tape is to prevent getting massive flappers from finger calluses and for that it works great.

11-13% strain reduction and also a reduction in pain is nice. I'll stick to taping.

Awesome video, I'm so surprised you don't get more views. I'm curious where I could find some of the research you're mentioning? Would love to have it for my own library, thanks so much and keep it up!! Edit: saw on your website that will be something you include with videos in the future. Awesome!!! Again keep it up, I use your videos a ton for references for my friends.

Your content is stellar!

You could also multiply the strength of the tape by the amount of wraps. Following your logic, tape would be busting all the time, which it doesn't because people don't do a single wrap. Also multiple wraps prevents some stretching. Experience speaks for itself: when done properly, which is specific to each injury, taping CAN help. Glad you did your math, but I'm sorry to say that your logic is a little rigid here.

I have been taping my fingers sometimes just nyt wrapping the tape so that it prevents me to crimp if I had some slight tweak on my finger. For me the point on taping is mostly to limit the flexion of PIP- joint and so trying to keep the joint in More pulley- friendly zone of flexion angle. I also tape flappers and wounds usually. Thanks for informative Channel!

More climbers need to watch your channel! - Commenting for algorithms lol

man you deserve 10k views

What about taping around the wrist for a TFCC sprain?

I really wish you had mentioned protecting 'flappers' in the video, as that's basically the only time I use tape. As you said in a comment, that's a valid way to use it, right?

I would love it if you made a video on swollen pip and dip joints. I've run into a lot of conflicting advice on that type of injury online

Great video and info as always. Curious if H taping is only when going for higher grades or closed crimping to protect A2/A4? Wondering if Evolv tape would provide same level support as regular tape? I only use Evolv tape for friction reduction and soak up blood on fingers. 😆

i only use tape for flappers so I can still climb even with flappers or when recovering from flappers, rarely get flappers anymore though, last time it was due to weighted finger boarding and campus boarding.

Very informative but I have a question about the forces. Can you really compare the force required to break the tape with the force required to rupture the pulley? Is the 400 N the force along the tendon or is it the force perpendicular to the tendon pushing out on the pulley? By mentioning breaking force you are implying that the tape will break, has this ever happened?

I've been taping my injured A2 pulley for a couple weeks, it turns my climbs from being a bit painful to zero pain, no lasting pain after the session. Would it be better to just put up with the pain or keep taping the finger until it's healed

Hi! Can h taping be used during the immobilisation period after an A4 pulley rupture or is it just for when you return to climbing?

Hinted by the name pulley, a wrap counts as double in force calculations. Twist a piece of tape a couple of turns so its more of a "rope". Tape from both sides of the "rope" so you get the sandwiched equiivelent of 1 layer, 1 twisted layer and then 1 layer. Make a U out of this and pinch it with welding visors 4-6mm apart. Put it on a hanged scale and see where it breaks. I am betting it breaks at 140kg. Next one to bet to get this test done? :-D

I just ripped a huge chunk of skin off my index finger while climbing yesterday. Should I take time off to let the skin regrow or would taping it over be alright?

the first minutes of the video I was like "oh man, now my research to actually find out the H taping method and the tape I just bought was a waste...". But luckily at the end I found what I was searching for: how to do H tape AND that it is "legitimate" in my case :D, which is wanting to do some moderate climbing with an already injured and partially recovered pulley (A3 or A4). Thanks!

Is taping useful in Gi Jiu Jitsu? Reducing how tight you grip?

So even if wo take that ~10% advantage of tape, which is highly dependent on how you use it exactly. It is probably enough to protect your pulleys. When I ripped mine. It was not a Fall or really extreme load. Just a far away crimp on which I held on. So what I am trying to say here: I think the 10% would have been enpugh to save my pulley, cause it wasnt that much over the top force there that ripped it.

I have a really light sprain on my a5 pulley of my index finger, i can hardly locate it by pressing on the joint, i have to search for it. Nonetheless i know there is something. I just came back from a finger injury, which i did not tape at all and i had some occasions, where i used the injured finger too much. But with this small injury now, i am trying to immobilise the joint by using a broad tape and continue climbing, avoiding crimping and small holds. I plan to this for two weeks, one has passed. The injury, which maybe just an overstretch, is feeling better every day. I think taping in this case is beneficial, because it lets me continue to climb on a fairly high level, but provides protection against any cicumstance, which could worsen the injury. For me tape is useful, because it helps me to remember, that there is an injury to think about when climbing and it prevents me from overusing the injured finger. By the way: Great channel and very good presentation, if you keep the quality up, you will get your audience. Maybe use better tagging :) Just sports is not enough.

Last year I pulled three pulley tendons in just one session on an easy canvas board. It sounds just as dumb to me as it does to anyone reading this, but I have literally no idea how I did it. There was no moment in which I felt it 'go,' no slips or falls, just woke up the next morning in agony. One YEAR after the injury the pain finally went away. This was a month or two ago. I restarted climbing, no issues, then during my last session the pain came back. I can't train other sports due to back and knee injuries, I'm fucking done with waiting. If taping helps just 1% I'm all for it.

is tape usefull if you have a cut on your finger or shall you just use a plaster

good point, it one thing saying things. showing real references are another

Well 13% with H-taping doesn't sound too bad

on the same page of myths or true, what about chalk?

Any guitar players watching this?

First