Want hear a great sounding V8? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/acyKZ8Slq7TLdXk.html

They sure lay down a hell of alot of low rpm torque, and torque is what moves you. These engines are some of the best GM ever made as far as durability and realiability goes. I've seen fleet trucks with TBI engines with over 400K on the clock still going strong.

The biggest problem with the lid flip is now your sucking in hot air from the engine bay. A better idea is to get or make a second intake horn and route both horns to a fender or to the radiator support thus allowing more cool air into the intake. A cooler air charge equals more power.

With that lid flip you just did you also created a nice bowl for future maintenance for your nuts bolts and tools to be kept in so you don't lose them

There's so much misinformation in these comments. 1. Yes, the TBI cam and heads are really weak, and upgrading these will get you the most gains. However, most of these tricks help in small ways and are popular mostly because of their low cost. The TBI computer is really sensitive, so any major changes will require reprogramming that will up your costs if you don't know how to do it yourself. 2. Exhaust upgrades are great, the factory Y pipe was DESIGNED to flow badly; this was to help the one-wire O2 sensor heat up. If you modify to a better flowing exhaust system and convert to a 3-wire self-heating O2 sensor your engine will breath better. Remember, a motor is basically just a big air pump and if you increase your air intake ability, it helps to increase your air output. 3. Deleting the cat can help, but its better to install a high-flow cat and stay environmentally friendly. Unless the cat is old and clogged it most likely won't affect your engine much to have one. Plus if you travel out of state you can stay legal; a cat-free system has a different smell, and supposedly cops in some areas will pull you over if they notice it. I live in an area without inspections myself, but I like to stay legal in case I travel somewhere that isn't. 4. For MOST MODERN APPLICATIONS a throttle body spacer is snake oil, completely useless. However, the concept comes from carburetors and actually does help with a TBI. More complex systems with high pressure fuel rails won't see any difference, but the spacer on a TBI helps with fuel atomization. 5. The lid flip can help a LOT, but not for the reason people think. From the factory these air cleaners are designed with essentially a cold air intake that breathes air from outside the passenger fender. However, they have a small tube that reaches down to the exhaust manifold and a flapper inside the breather. This flapper is close when the engine is cold, forcing it to breath through that small tube and suck hot air off of the exhaust manifold. As the air cleaner warms up a little wax-based actuator opens the breather flap so it can suck cold air from outside. The warm air at startup helps a LOT on a cold engine's idle, and the smaller tube acts like a choke. What most people don't realize is that over the years that flap actuator stops working, meaning the flap inside stays closed and chokes the engine of air all the time. So when you do the lid flip, or install an open-element breather your engine automatically breathes much better. You can take that flap off and block off the small tube on the factory air cleaner, and as long as you still have the plastic thing to the fender you get a fairly efficient cold air intake; however, doing this causes your engine to idle rough from a cold start and smooth out after warming up. An open element air cleaner is kind of a compromise; you have warmer air for the warmer engine, sacrificing efficiency, but from a cold start you have slightly warmer air going in for a smoother startup idle.

I respect your boldness to try even if not the right thing to do that's how we learn ask old Henry Ford

In the case of a tbi setup they usually go off of just the coolant sensors temp, air temp sensors are on my newer mutiport or multiple injector engines but even then that's manly 2005 and up.Turning he lid upside-down depending on the size of the old breather that it would have been sucking air through plus the amount of supporting mods to the engine can and in allot of cases will make a slight difference.

i love these systems...reliable and easy to diagnose and repair.

i personally have added a spacer done the lid flip and eliminated the pcv ring and then upgraded my filter to a k&n then eliminated my pcv valves and dumped them into a blow by can .i can tell you this my throttle response if phenomenal now, hp has definitely increased. now yes you sacrifice fuel mileage but if your looking for gainz for little to no money its a good start. its by no means a major upgrade but every little bit does help

20 HP gain for that seems more like a dream than reality. You probably gained about 2 or 3 more HP.

You can pick up a extra 10 hp by running synthetic blinker fluid, also stage 2 muffler bearings will pick up about 30 ftbs of torque ...still testing the power gains from adding a JEGS sticker I will let you know the power gains after I download that horse power app you got

I'd love to see how it runs after all those metal shavings went in the motor (i'm obviously kidding, I know he put seafoam in so it won't hurt it, I'm not an idiot)

I took a old Carb air cleaner and drilled out the stud holes and put a carriage bolt in the old stud hole at it worked great. I even paired my valve covers the old fashioned Chevy orange, it looks pretty sexy now.

Thx for making people like me have to work on your mess 10 years later 👍

Thank you Justin!! A Lot means "NOT MUCH"

Hang in there Bucky. I'm rooting for ya'.

He is right about what he has done the tbi mod he did does help. But instead of the air cleaner flip crap, get a cold air intake kit or regular air filter base and top 14".

Well I looked up everything wrong with a tbi 350 cuz I just bought a 95 1500 and this was the second video so now she’s good for another 300k. Thanks for the help man👌

I did the same modification on my dyno we tested this over lunch we were all laughing we actually lost power due to a hot engine. The one setup brings in colder air. When you do this you take all hot air now in and we lost power. Always seems like you gain power on your seat when you do the work but a dyno will always tell you the truth. Thanks guys we had a good laugh over this.

That spacer ring is more important than most people think.. Ive seen dyno tests before and after where the vehicle (Camaro) lost almost 40ft-lbs up top...the ring straightens the air out a lot better than most think it does.

hay was wondering what your supost to do with the pcv valve hose that goes to the driver side valve cover

Lid flip works! You think that stock cold air intake is still cold after it’s passed by the air filter housing? These underhood temps are high in the obs chevys. It heats up that housing and radiates that heat inside too. Also more air is always better than cold air, within reason

K thanks for the reply I might get it mine just got a lilttle torque cam and dual 2.5" pipes and flowtech shorty headers

You should upgrade your fuel pump to a 1996 which puts out more pressure at high rpms. Summit has what you need. Or rockauto.

Interesting thinking on the air system, I know the up air lid makes for the more power sounds but put it right and duct it into the inner fender and put the tabs back on that you cut off the top of the tbi for stronger air velocity to mix the fuel on a non forced air induction motor

Even with the throttle body spacer and flipping the lid doesn't cause no problem with closing the hood does it ? Cause I thought about doin the throttle body to mine but I was scared the hood wouldint close or it would be a pain in the ass to close it

what you do with tube in the back?of plastic spacer? blow by tube? from valve cover

from the look of his footprint he was a big fella

Where did you put the fresh air intake for the PCV system? Otherwise nice mod. Going to be doing that on my 91.

What did you do with your breather hose that used to go between the TBI and air filter ?

Want more power out of a 350? Cut off the tube from the exhaust manifold so it only gets cool air. Upgrade the cam and give it a 4° offset. Headers Edelbrok intake manifold. Complete tune up. Flipping the air intake cover sucks hot ass air out of the engine bay and degrades the life of the engine. NEVER alter your TBI. He ground off the fuel safety catch walls that made sure fuel went into the intake and doesnt catch fire if the engine ever happens to backfire.

I put an open air filter on my truck and really haven’t noticed much difference. I put long tube headers on as well. Do I need a tube to see a performance difference?

just grinding off a little of the tbi and trimming the rubber wont get you hardly anything at all. and yes the lid flip helps a little but not a lot either. Ive got edelbrock SCCA heads, a tbi performer intake, a 454 throttle body with a custom cnc'd adapter, a tbi spacer, a custom filter tray and a flow through top. comp cams extreme energy cam and lifter kit, complete flowtech exhaust y pipe system, ported heads, intake, and headers, and a custom chip. On a mustang dyno I hit 370hp and 355tq.

I have that exact same engine and set up on my 1992 gmc suburban. Same throttle body spacer and air filter

@canadianfusion I have a 350 tbi as well and willing to get a Lil more hp with a tbspacer but is it really ok to shave down this lips on the tbi?

How did u get we're the two injectors where the fuel gets in wider

Can you inform about the lid flip? What diffrence does it make?

What's your experience with the 'lid flip' vs. cold air intake? I'd think introducing cold, dense air to the TBI unit would be more valuable than introducing more radiator-warm air. What do you think?

Go to goodwill and find a bowl who's bottom is approximately the same diameter as the spacer. Cut the bottom out and use as bottom of air filter. My car hood clearance was an issue you should be fine. This will allow for airflow from the side. This was from a Carcraft Dyno session. I had one on my 88 Monti Carlo you could always try one real quick without the filter and see if it works as good as it did on mine.

Ive always wondeeeed, did my 88 come with a cat in it? I got it without one just a muffler?

did you have any problem with the throttle body spacer and the hood clearence with the stock intake

Did u feel a difference just using the spacer or no?

Just a side note most the time that throttle body has the screw-in spot so you can eliminate the two air cleaner studs and go to a single arched stud so you can run a regular air cleaner or a traditional air cleaner

I think swapping out that air filter might get you the most "Gains"

the lid flip seems to have some effect, ive test drove mine with and without it fliped and it does seem to accelerate faster with it fliped. the only downside is if you drive in the mud alot like i do. you will be buying alota new air filters due to water and mud gettin on it

So, did you meet Mickey?

Those K & N people are pure marketing geniuses, aren't they?

U took that spacer from under the housing there a vacuum hose on the back what did u do with that?

friend, can you help me please, I have a Chevrolet suburban 1500 5.7 vortec 1996, I made the TBI carburetor and distributor, I had the camshaft altered a bit in stage 2 and I put an aluminum radiator with electric fans (the problem is that it It heats up after 15 or 20 minutes and the time according to the mark on the pulley is not left, I move the distributor and not Measure the time) What is the problem? can you help me

I used a 82 chevy top half (lid) on my air cleaner and now a almost 6 inch tall filter fits in it and it looks stock still using the stock cold air system but with a 6 inch tall filter. And the hood shuts and everything LOL

I subscribed and shared I hope that helps you. But was wondering what vehicle is that on? I've got a 1990 C 1500 truck, any suggestions

I cut my air filter lid and bottom so they have the open sides. nice look and runs good too

Heads and cam it , put a carb intake on it run a carb to tbi adapter on it, bigger injectors , set the timing at 12 degrees run super unleaded. True duals 2.5 pipes. No cats etc , free it up. Tbi is good but you have to build around it.

@s10kid100 yes. and a magnaflow muffler, a long one. i am not sure of the model.

No comment about that I've done that and other things to my 90 Silverado that I was wondering other than removing the cat how I could gut it with it being 26 inches long and 13 inches wide I have seen some videos where people use screwdrivers but I would like a 26 inch long drill bit I'm assuming and I don't want anything left in there it has to be on there where I live but it does not have to pass emissions makes no sense so I must gut it any suggestions would be appreciated 👍

@insanepickleboy what metal collar? the yellow piece is plastic, if that is what you meant then yes i did take it all the way off.

hey can you tell a difference with the throttle body spacer

What did you do with your positive crankcase ventilation hose? The one that went to the adapter you removed?

so you can take the metal collar completely off?

What about vacuum line on plastic ring you removed? Where did you run it if you removed its hook up place?

I'm sorry I missed the part where the hose that connects to the back of that ring that goes to the pcv valve. So what did you do with that? Asking for a friend

ok so this most likey wont give you 20hp but if you properly sand and smooth the TB then your throttle response is so much better youll actullay see a diffrence

@Greenmonoluche it makes a whistle noise and not much else. did not notice a huge difference.

What you need to do, since this is a truck, is determine how much space is between the hood and the top of the air cleaner when the lid is put on properly. If there are several inches of clearance then you could fashion a taller velocity stack between the base of the air cleaner and the throttle body. Velocity stacks for carburetors had a similar fit to the throttle bores as does this throttle body injection system. The next thing you'd do is that you'd run the air cleaner without the lid flipped over....so its properly sealed and contained. The snorkel inlet of the air cleaner needs to be ducted to the front of the truck as you would be fashioning a RAM AIR inlet system. I do not know how the factory routed the inlet system but usually they did not take air in with the inlet facing forward....they usually faced sideways and not with the forward air flow as the truck would travel forward.....or there was an obstruction blocking the inlet. Some mid 1960's race cars that had the 4 round headlight systems, they took out the high beams and used the ports as the inlets for a dual snorkel ram air inlet system. The RAM AIR will use the forward travel and the air resistance to force air into the motor as the truck is in motion. The faster the truck travels, the more air gets forced in to the motor. The flipping the lid thing doesn't force air into the motor as it only allows the natural draw in of the cylinders to bring the air/fuel mixture to the combustion chambers. The better air inlet system would be a cowl induction system as there is more air pressure in front of the windshield as the truck would be traveling forward. SO you would either need a cowl induction hood scooped hood, or if the layout is right with the trucks cowling and the fire wall, you might be able to cut a port in the upper firewall to tap the boxed area where the windshield wiper mechanism would be if its an isolated box chamber that's vented up in front of the windshield. Not all vehicle are suitable to modify for a cowl induction system if the elements for a cowl system are not present in the trucks body design, you would have to have a cowl hood scooped hood. If there are doubter's, you can use masking tape and some ribbon or strips of news paper taped to the hood , on the hood in front of the windshield and drive down the road and watch the ribbons getting sucked into the cowl port. The cowl induction system has more pressure than a ram air system......but the ram air system is usually easy to fabricate with the factory parts that are present on the truck. Either way, the added boost in cylinder filling doesn't approach that of a blower or turbo system, but its far more better than just relying on the natural draw of the engine cylinders to fill the cylinder with air/fuel mixture for maximum efficiency. ANd you need a free flowing exhaust system to compliment the intake but not too big of pipes as going too big robs torque & power within the power band of street driving. Your best bet is to add on an MSD 6A ignition box to the existing factory ignition & distributor as it will get a complete burn of the air/fuel mixture with multiple sparks up to 3000 rpm......considering street driving is between idle and about 3000 rpm. ANd the next biggest improvement would be using an old set of wires to utilize the boots and snap connectors and make yourself a real wire...wire set using heavy gauge copper wire from an electric supply house and solder the terminals on the wire......that would get the full energy of the coil to the plug......and you'd never need a new set of wire ever again.

How's the tbspacer I'm thinking of getting one

@MrAss707 not really the stock intake manifold isnt that bad save money on the edelbrock intake port and poilsh the old one and throw a 460 lift cam in it and a nice set of headers youll be good!

There's a reason to breathe through that housing and snorkel. No different from cold air intake. Now you're just ingesting hot air from under the hood.

looks completely legit. i am going to suggest this (but not the lid flip) for a friends current project. i was also considering moving the injector wires. lines, wires and cables have an enormous amount of drag. more than one might think.

How to improve a tbi for power , pull tbi motor . Install new motor with good flowing heads 10.1 compression with carb. Change sending unit in tank for carb set up .

Ok have a 93 5.7. First hyper tech chip, power pully's and s'can that boat anchor catalytic converter. Then flow master 44 3" into two 2 1/2s. Runs like a scalded dog. Smoked a 96 vortec. Pulled away and left him at 115.

How the hell would the pcv get air?

OKE heres a few real performance tips from someone who actually knows what they're talking about. Changing the spring in the injector to 18 lbs and using a 1996 up Vortec fuel pump is all the modifications needed to the TBI unless you use one that's been machined (bored) to 2 inches. A K&N Velocity stack summit part # 58-1190 will unshroud the injectors and create a non restrictive intake. Beyond that a nearly stock engine wont see any benefit other than using orange chevy valve springs with 110 lbs of seat pressure @ 1.7 inches and a set of 1 &5/8s headers and performance mufflers. Replace the swirl port junk heads with a set of ZZ4 / L98 corvette aluminum heads, a Weiand 8000 EGR spread bore intake (based on the Weiand stealth intake) and a ZZ4 hydraulic roller cam and these TBI injection run great. They'll flow 585+ cfm on a superflow flow bench. The 2 inch will flow as much as 650 cfm depending on other factors. Ive built far to many of these to know what works and what doesn't. I run 1.75 Hooker full length headers into 2.5 inch Flowmasters. The more work you do the more changes to the prom will need to be done. Sinister Performance programmed my chip, I gave them my engine specs, tranny & torque converter, gear ratio, and tire size and they took all that data and dialed in my EPROM. A GM 2732a EPROM isn't exactly expensive and they're pretty good at dialing them in. Leave modifying the throttle bodies to ppl who know what they're doing not some schmuck with a Dremel rotary tool.

I've got an 88' GMC 350, and I've noticed when I take that metal ring/collar off, the air cleaner unit(because it's now sitting lower) runs into stuff in the back like the distributor cap/wires etc..did you have this problem?

You tell 'em, Bucky!!!!!

I wish I could take out that ring, but there's all that shit on top of the engine that keeps the air cleaner from sitting flat on the throttle body because I don't have the spacer.

@YamahaATVMudder with all the mods i am averaging about 22-23mpg on the highway.

My chevy 1500 4x4 has a problem i changed that bbig plug on the throttle body it ran fine for a week or so but then it quit it will crank and idel alday long but if you hit the trhottle it will quit can someone help me out with that

Cool! I know this is ancient, but Jeggs makes a TBI airflow enhancer now… I was thinking about pulling the trigger on it.

I understand that a "Lid Flip" gives better air flow, but it gives the engine hotter air instead of the stock version intake, So does that not defeat the purpose?

Cool video thanks!!!

Quest for 400 hp tbi! Vortec heads the 09 something dunno can't recall off hand, long tube headers with an extra hole for O2 sensor for left and right bank spliced to the single sensor, .470 roller cam and 1.5 roller rockers, tbi to vortec manifold, 454 throttle body, port matched gaskets and msd ignition. Stock computer. It's all about manipulation but OBD1 is chip transferable so you get the idea. Maybe chip mod will hurt it or maybe not🤔

can you use and just cut the original studs for securing the air lid into place if you have the double posts? i have a very well kept, all original, nothing missing 1994 chevy suburban silverado edition. with barn doors, captains seats in the front. all power everything and it all works. and its got the 5.7 350 tbi in it. but i swear it hauls too much ass for it to be bone stock. an old man bought it brand new off the lot and garage kept it with barely any use and regular religious maintenence for the first 20 years of its life. then he passed and gave it to his daughter who daily'd it till it was about 27. and then i paid 1500 for it with 142k original miles on body and motor. and i brought it up to 158k

The main reason to flip the lid is, It sounds F-ing cool.

20 hp? Ehh Idk. Maybe an increase in fuel mileage?

How much did you pay for the new intake and was it worth it?

is that a 3inch single with no cat??

Anyone ever heard of a tornado thing that goes I side the carburetor? The truck I got has one but I have no idea what it does.

How much horsepower you making?

15 mpg highway with my bone stock 1994 K2500 Suburban 5.7 with 4.10 gears, guessing that may be slightly better fuel economy than the 454.

nice vid

The TBI 5.7 has a poorly designed exhaust system. A cam will not do you much good until you replace the factory Y pipe. The tech guys with hotrod magazine did a small write up on appropriate exhaust tubing diameter for an expected amount of horse power, and you would have better exhaust gas velocity with 2.5". You can also pick up a cheap dremmel and radius the TB volutes. Make sure it's at 13psi fuel pressure, slap a K&N filter on and these simple changes will get you about as far along as you can be unless you want to swap heads/cam... 180whp to 220ish probably.

The lid flip is actually a good idea

I have the throttle body spacer it was given to me. Do the really make a difference? Or even save gas mileage like they say they do?

Yeah idk about the lid flip it comes stock with a pretty good cool air intake already if anything just get a less restrictive air filter and cut a hole in your fender thats what im about too do once i get some more stuff👌

I find this mod to be a fantasy

You need to do the salad bowl mod, put a quarter into your pressure reg plus the injector spacer mod as well. Well worth it.

tbi will run forever but will never be a power house. save cash find a 5.3 or better yet 6.0 from the junk yard with ecm and harness. you will never look back. these trucks are lighter then the new ones so with a ls they run really well.

u want cold air flip the lid back over and put hose back on lol

is it safe to completly remove that yellow collord ring off? does it serve a purpose?

you wanna help performance put a dime in side the fuel pressure regulator to allow more fuel to flow