Thanks for the info. I'm getting back into racing after a 15-year hiatus. This will be my first attempt at turf/carpet buggy racing. I had been asphalt on-road racing and carpet touring class previously. Just bought the associated 6.4 hope to be racing soon.

Im a steer wheel user (In the Uk). Im one of those who uses high negative value steering expo. I think its something steerwheel users like more, but as you say, it can really effect how a car enters the corner.It feels like it allows the car to scrub a little speed whilst stabilising its self (Just for a split second) and thus loading the tyre more smoothly before feeding in the majority of the lock and really sending the car into the corner. It feels fast and safe to me but accept its a very marmite feel! I think stick users benefit much less from steering expo as i think the movement of the stick creates its own natural expo and feeding the steering in a little at the start of a corner is a much more natural movement on a stick. (if that makes sense)

Bravo excellent video

Good video - similar to what we ran on the AE cars:) One thing lots of us found was ditch the ‘bent’ steering ball cups and replace with normal ones - makes a big difference IMO and you feel more connected to the car ;) Also - re Boost - we always run zero :) I’m of the opinion if you need to run boost you’ve got the wrong wind motor in the car - just motor up instead.

Nice vid will definitely help me get started on the setup stuff. I am planning on getting into 2wd carpet buggies this winter, probably 17.5t stock class for motor setup. At least at first. I want to pick a popular class but not one that's so popular that I don't get much wheel time due to how many people are in it. Seeing you use a stick radio is making me think I suppose I'll just try my airplane radio. I have a decent pistol grip, flysky nb4, but tbh it's a pile compared to my plane radio in regards to how precise the pots are and the levels of programmability. So long as I can get used to plane radio driving a car it should in theory be easier to be precise. I also have expresslrs in it which boasts a proven 10ms of latency or so in the 333hz mode. Also 333hz pwm to esc and servo so in theory it's lower latency than the car radio too. Not that it's likely to matter but if you can have a theoretical advantage you might as well take it. With your stick radio, does the throttle have a detent to center itself? That's the one part that might be weird on the plane radio, no throttle centering. However, with 3D helis we get along just fine with no centering throttle/collective, so in theory should be doable for cars too. I do already use the plan radio for my crawlers but I have it set up a little differently. For the buggy I need to have a braking range on the throttle stick which I don't have on the crawler. With the crawler, I flip a switch to activate reverse. The extra precision you get with a stick radio for an rc crawler is very noticable. With a buggy I am thinking probably the lower third of the stick will be proportional brake and the upper 2/3rds proportional throttle. Will take some experimenting. Should be fun.

I have a quick question. I’ve noticed that on our track we race on in town here that I’m struggling to get the car slowed down for slow and tight corners. If I give it too much brake, the car spins out and if I steer too much or try and carry too much speed the car tips over. I have to be really careful with it and can’t drive as hard as I would like to. Also running no drag brake. Was wondering if I need a stiffer front spring and to add some drag brake to help with this?

I tried the brass bulkhead. It weights 33g, but I felt it makes the front end not so reactive and slow. The aluminum one is 12g, the plastic is only 4g. I guess the aluminum is good on carpet too, just to make sure you won't break the plastic one and get a DNF during a race. I defineitely give a try for the 3 hole piston, I just bought the 2.5 mm thick pistones. Wich 3 hole pistons did you get, the 2 mm thick or the 2.5 mm?

Thank you for the insight. I’ve been playing with the 8k throttle setting on the esc, but will try 12k. Run in the Mid South, B6.4D, B7D and B74.2. Smooth ESC is what I looking for more. My thumbs aren’t good enough. Just stopped running Sworkz, so an outcast in the south 😂

Good video , would it be possible to put all your final settings in a setup sheet to download .

Has anyone fitted the XR325100 - TEAM XRAY XB2 ACTIVE DIFFERENTIAL in the B6.4? It looks like a simple drop in really but I'm not sure if the XRAY diff and the B6.4D are the same pitch & teeth count? It's a big chunk of change so I want to confirm before splashing out the £100. Thanks :)

Hi. How to glue the front tires as exactly as in the video? Do you have to cut them from the inside before gluing them so that they adhere to the rim?

Have you tried the fusion slim fronts? It gives massive steering but other setup changes are reqd. Like to know your opinion or changes required.

what rear tires and where do I find the set up sheet. Thanks

Can you add a link for wheel speed? cant find them on the web?

Whats the esc and motor you use?

0:40 what? you race with a stick radio? wizardry i tell ya

What battery mount is that?

Why wouldn't they let you re glue a tire? Sounds like a fart sniffer club for real.