Awesome car. Raced yesterday and it was on rails.

We have far too many!

Thanks great news!

Thanks for watching

Its a further tuning aid - only run rear indoors on carpet

Thanks for heads up

Yes for sure

Many thanks

@@TeamRC3D congratulation for 1000 sub

Not sure details should be on ae site

It’s in the back of your manual. You can also find a pdf version from ae website

Building is the easy part , the kits are pretty straightforward

Both have positive. Xb2 parts are excellent but associated shocks are definitely better in our opinion. All the cars seem well under minimum weight

We didn’t use them

The four tiny o-rings are option parts to fit between the diff planet gears and their backing washer. They are supposed to add a bit of diff bind to make a gear diff behave a bit more like a ball diff. Sort of intermediate. I've tried them and they make a marginal difference. Not really worth bothering with compared to tyre choice and just using a ball diff..

Just upgraded to the alloy link and realised that!

@Team RC 3D Prints Man I did the same when I upgraded to the alum link also! It didnt say to swap those washers from the original and when I tightened down the screws they would bind up the bearings haha I actually ran the car that way for a while before literally just the other day I realized i never put them in 😅

First mistake I found on a used buggy I bought. I ran it like that for a long time actually. Until it broke and I upgraded to aluminum, so like 3 whole days 😂

What's the brand of servo horn you used?

@@chrisolsen3299 I'll take a look when I get home

Wondered who would notice that. Did it unintentionally at first but have run it like that now!

6.5t hobbywing

Hobbywing, esc and 6.5t motor

Wouldn’t worry. You will have a few

Old platform - may be difficult to get spares

No?

Think the xray is better quality but we prefer the Associated for performance

You will need 1.5 2.0 2.5 mm hex drivers 7.0mm and 5.5mm nut wrench and long nose pliers. Thinks that’s about it. I use shock pliers but they are not essential

@@TeamRC3D awesome thanx!!

@@gigi9467 you will also need soldering tools. Body reamer, body scissors, tire bands, and tire glue. You might also need a tire break in tool depending on surface. Oh and an exact knife paint and servo tape. Depending on battery choice you will need 4-5 mm bullets also.

@@gigi9467 digital calipers are helpful when doing turnbuckles along with a turnbuckle wrench

@@colestaples2010 thanks but I decided to sell a kit and buy something cheaper to get started. It was getting ridiculous. How much money it is

This is the first associated we have owned, raced against them BITD

Had both - we went from XRay to Associated

Mostly likely I’ll go with AE coz I like the blue ..😂 xray planet gears are plastic..

I’ll swap all the screws with SS..

never has issues with them

know alot of people that dont got the problem of cracking front hubs if they dont crash hard in to solid objects alot and in that case the front susp arm is whats take the bashing in 99% of the time.

@@extec101 Asphalt racing is hard on them...

It's performed well at first two events. Ball diff to try out next

Thanks for comment

Came here to write the same! To further explain to anyone reading this that doesn't know... The blue ring is the dirt seal which needs to be on the outside -dirt side. Silver side is open and allows dirt in. Bearings normally come with seals on both sides, but AE remove the inner seal to reduce seal drag as there's no dirt on the inside of the gearbox or inside of a PAIR of bearings in a hub -i.e. blue seal is not needed on the inside. But if you don't know this and put the seals on the inside and the open face on the outside it's a facepalm moment -as you might as well have unsealed bearings, they'll wear out fast. Just put the blue sealed face on the outside (blue seals on dirty side).

Really? Why?

@@TeamRC3D problems with the differential. If I could get more run time with less parts invested I might be happy

@@TeamRC3D maybe it’s just a newbie problem I don’t know. I just want more consistent track time before it acts up. I guess if I was wealthy I wouldn’t care but I’m not 😂

@@colestaples2010 did find as standard they need rebuilding quite frequently

@@TeamRC3D I just finished my latest diff rebuild and I think I finally got it right, time will tell. I cleaned everything with nitro cleaner this time. Got precision ground diff washers or whatever they are called and a caged thrust bearing. Used the jconcepts diff grease also. It’s the smoothest diff I’ve ever had but man it was expensive!