Glad it was helpful!

There is a setting to reduce the value of the turn stick. I'll have a bit of a look and try to get a short update out soon

@@TeamPanicRobotics Huge thanks!!!

Try rebinding.

Glad it helped! I tend to use DFrobot Mirco Metal Gear motors that have an ESC on the back of the, or custom ESCs However some of the people I know use "5a dual brushed esc" from places like eBay and Aliexpress, thats a good search term to use and gives results like this: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000202935819.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.67927190BjE3CZ&algo_pvid=1c005a99-90f5-4f9d-88a8-de1a235512fe&algo_expid=1c005a99-90f5-4f9d-88a8-de1a235512fe-0&btsid=0bb0623a16225131825212880e3506&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ As I havent personally used them, I cant vouch for the effectiveness, but they should at least be on the right track

I dont use any mixing on my weapons. With the sticks set up as shown, the "throttle" stick is channel 3, I just plug my weapon ESC into that and use the throttle stick as is to control weapon speed

For num 1) there's two ways to do that, the easiest way is to use an ESC that's not bi-directional (like most brushless escs) because for a single direction ESC -100% is a full stop The second way would be a mix which forces the low end to 0%, I've done something like this before with channel 4 but would need to dig into my old mix settings to give a guide on how to do it For 2) Not on the stock firmware, I have heard that there is a firmware for these transmitters out there that has better mixing and can be used to do a reverse switch, but I haven't tested it yet. I'll look into that for a future video (I'm moving Annie_R_U_OK over to a new transmitter and will be working on an invert switch on that, thanks for the reminder though)

Yep! this mixing provides variable power to each motor at every stick position I'm pretty sure you can get the stick into a spot where its only giving power to one wheel

@@TeamPanicRobotics Terrific! Thanks so much for the response. Excellent video!

yes, weapons normally just get plugged straight into the 3rd or 4th channel with no mixing I'm not sure about driving with two thumbsticks, in theory you should be able to do this mix across the thumbsticks as long as you pay attention to the channels used and plug your drives in correctly It will make weapon control more difficult on these controllers as the switches on them are your only other option for weapon control and they dont have a lot of options for use and cant be mixed with the sticks

transmitters are sold with different "modes" i just have the mode where the self centering stick is on the other side Usually it just means that stick has an extra spring, and in some cases you can open the transmitter up and change which stick self centers

yes, continuous rotation servos have an inbuilt speed controller

For most robots I use two ESC's, one for each motor, but in ant weights I will sometimes use a dual motor esc

@Harold Arian ok what the hell is this

this could be to do with the trim for your left/right channel. there is a little rocker switch under the stick, push it in the opposite direction to the way the robot tends to move It could also be your ESC or your motors, if your motors dont have the same gear boxes one will always go faster then the other, causing the robot to turn

@@TeamPanicRobotics Thanks again! I will try your advices. Have a nice day!

I have no experience with Quickrun ESC and you've given no information on motors or battery voltage A quick google says they are a brushless ESC I cannot give you guided help here as theres far too many unknowns and I have no experience with your setup. But it sounds like an ESC issue not a receiver issue, if it was a receiver issue either it would never come good again until you power cycle the tank (the receiver has an electrical fault) or it would come good on its own randomly (the receiver has a signal issue) The fact you need to push the stick to the 0 position sounds like the ESC is shutting down and is needing to see a 0 signal to start up again Its possible that they are overvaulting or seeing a massive negative spike when you suddenly reverse drive and are shutting down But take all of that with a huge grain of salt as its mostly a guess based on how esc's work in general as I have no experience with Quickrun ESCs

@@TeamPanicRobotics No problem, thank you for responding. I also think it's the ESC that's causing this, I will order a new one and change it. If the problem remains I'll have one spare. And yes, they are brushless ESCs with 540 Crawler Motors attached to it. Have a nice day mate.

did the mix save correctly? You need to long hold the cancil button for the mix to save I'd double check that as a first step

Its the same mixing for 2wd and 4wd Just with 4wd you plug two ESCs into each channel on the receiver. So the ESCs that control the left motors get plugged into the same port on the reciver and the two ESCs that control the right motors are plugged into the other

@@TeamPanicRobotics thanks for the valuable reply mate. From Australia.

I am sooo confused. I've bought 2x motor controllers where the port markings on the controllers were not corresponding with the manual. I think I got that sorted. Enable wire was the problem as there was no port marked EN. I then got no joy whilst output mode on my rc was in PWM mode, just tried PPM and the bloody wheel went full speed. Now I'm at my wits end. Do you think you can assist me here.

As far as I know, not for this controller with stock firmware, its fairly basic I've heard rumour of more advanced firmware out there but havent ever used it myself so cant comment

Most Merkins like Mode 2; much of the rest of the world likes Mode 1. Definitely not worth going to war over. Just do whatever makes you happy. I'm English, which makes me not only un-Merkin, but also bad and nasty and ugly and evil and wrong; Brits drive cars on the left. It's just an old tradition. No biggie. We should probably not bother going to war over that, either. Again, just do whatever makes you happy. Nobody's judging. Nobody cares. And as for 'dressing' on the left or on the right (hem, hem)... Well, I'm a woman, so I don't do either. I've got a bra that does its best to lift and separate, if that's any help...

@@EleanorPeterson A lot of of text for a lighthearted remark

@@ThyrusEvo- Oh yes. I've got text for all occasions. But lighthearted remarks need a smiley face or they can so easily be taken as something entirely different. No matter what type of car, bus, truck, van or lorry you drive, and whichever side of the road you drive on, and in whichever country you live - yes, even if it's the 'United States of 'We Drive On The Right Out Of Spite For Our Embarrassing Colonial Origins' America - the accelerator pedal is on the right, under your right foot. In RC terms, that's Mode 1. Throttle on the right. Right foot. It's on the right-hand side. And the throttle on a motorbike is in your right hand. Your right, not your left. It's on the right. As with a Mode 1 transmitter. Throttle on the right. Accelerator on the right. In a car you sit on the right and drive on the left - unless you're weird - but you always use your right foot on the throttle. For cars with a manual transmission and pedals (I think U.S. peeps call them 'stick-shift'), the clutch is on the left; the brake is in the middle. What's on the right? The 'gas' is on the right. Yup. Even if you drive an automatic, the brake's on the left and the throttle is on the right. Hey, don't blame me. That's just the way it goes. So having the throttle on the right (Mode 1) on an RC transmitter isn't THAT weird. In fact, it makes quite a bit more sense than having it on the left, especially if you're driving a ground-based vehicle-type thingy with wheels. So... er... Whatever. Oh dear, I forgot the smiley face.

There's a huge difference between making a humorous comment about Australia being upside-down, and a comment drawing attention to an Australian who's 'backward' and doesn't think like you do. A comment about Australia is aimed at a country. It's geographical. The Antipodes. Yep. Upside-down. On the bottom of the globe. Inverted. Don't fall off. Ha ha. That's funny. But a comment about the way a guy thinks is an attack on him. On his thought processes. It's not a subtle distinction. It's like left- or right-handedness: there's nothing amusing about being either, and certainly no need to draw attention to it. But hey, if the transmitter controls are set up backwards, maybe Ben's a bit backward, too. You know, a bit simple. Retarded. Kinda dumb, like all foreigners. Oh, didn't you mean that? Too late. It's not what you say, Mr Trump, it's the way that people hear it that counts. I chose to interpret your Comment as: "We, the right-thinking Mode 2 people of the world who have our throttle stick on the left, don't take kindly to your messed-up ways, so don't go trying to pass off any weird foreign stuff as normal. As a faithful Mode 2 user, it's my duty to ridicule your Mode 1 beliefs and to seek the approval of my peers via KZfaq. Now let's all laugh at Ben for not being like us." In a school playground he'd be pelted with mud or dog poo till he moved his throttle to the left stick. In Texas the townsfolk would form a posse to ride him out of town. On KZfaq, viewers would join in by liking your Comment hundreds of times to show how right they thought you were to highlight Ben's depraved Mode 1 behaviour. Did I get hold of the wrong end of the stick? Never mind. At least it was on the correct side.

Adjust the Trim on the Transmitter on either wheel on the transmitter.

The ESC's I use depend on the robot and the motors I am trying to drive. But when buying ESC's I make sure they are Bi-Directional or have the option to make them Bi-Directional in software

Unfortunately, they're not generally compatible at all; there are many systems. Some of the more expensive transmitters have a "multiprotocol module" system which allows them to drive different types of receivers (not all at once, selectable from the menu). The protocol we usually use with the FS-i6 is called "AFHDS2A", which is not to be confused with older FS protocols.

what mark said, but the i6 supports afhds as well as afhds2a, its a setting you can change to use the older flysky receivers

I dont, its only very recently that learned this was the case. I have been using this mixing set up for a few years now and it never came up, I just dont turn while driving backwards. It might be possible to fix this issue, but it will be a much more complicated mixing algorithm that I dont think the Fs-i6 can handle

@@TeamPanicRobotics Ahh that does make sense, as this kind of steering is capable to do tight turning actually we dont really need to turn while reverse. Straight reverse and neutral turn is enough. Okay, thank you for the share!

I'm sorry I dont really understand your set up or know enough about hoverboards to be able to help you with this

@@TeamPanicRobotics i tested your thing out it doesn’t work on my hoverboard wheels. I thought it would work but it doesnt. It’s because it both plug into a circuit board. Rather independent the firmware i uploaded to it on GitHub is only programmed to run backwards and forwards simultaneously

Make sure you are pressing and holding the button to lock the settings in place

Maybe in future, I have a qx7 but use it infrequently, so I dont know enough to feel confident posting a tutorial yet

yes, it will work with a bldc motor IF your bldc ESC has a bi-directional mode active

Hi Ken The Rx does not output full duty cycle PWM, it outputs servo signals, these are a PWM signal used to transmit data. A servo signal is a short pulse, 1ms - 2ms in a 20ms frame. To convert a servo signal from your RX to full duty cycle PWM to drive a motor you need an ESC. For old hoverboard motors you need big escs, most people will use a VESC or similar, usually rated for 50A or higher

@@TeamPanicRobotics Many thanks Ben for your prompt response. I have seen references to that previously, but not a clear explanation as you have provided. The vehicle is only small, (a full scale model of Dr Who's robot dog K9) so the 350 Watt motors will not have to work very hard. I will have a look at inserting an Arduino between the FSky Rx and the motor control boards, and try to map the narrow range of PWM from the Rx out to a wider range, to get a more useful speed range out of the FSky/Arduino/ motor control board combo. Thanks again Regards Ken

This is not a problem with the transmitter it is a problem with your ESCs You need ESCs that are programmed to do forwards and reverse motor direction

Okay thank you so much.

Sorry missed this one, No mixing is needed to do 2 stick tank steering. One of the forward/back sticks will be a channel, the other forward/back stick will be a different channel (look at your controllers manual to work out which is which)(usually 1 and 3) Simply plug the motor on the left into a bi directional ESC, plug the ESC into power and into the channel that corresponds to the left stick, same for the right motor, but plug it into the channel for the right stick

@@TeamPanicRobotics hey, I understand what you are saying but I tried this and -100 percent on both sides on the sticks equals 0 for the motor so I have to hold the sticks all the way down to stop the motor from moving, I also have no reverse because instead of -100 being reverse, it’s 0 for the motor, I tried dub trims and trims but non of this work, I have bought the spectrum dx6e to try it on that and it’s no better. Not sure if maybe you can help with this?

yes, the esc you are using is a single direction esc (or is programmed for single direction) you either need to buy a bi-directional esc, or program the one you have (if you can, not all ESCs let you)

@@TeamPanicRobotics I ended up getting it. Forgot I had it programmed wrong. Thank you.

Hi I'm not sure its possible to turn that feature off, and I do get that it can be a pain In the past I've had switches break (usually after transporting the transmitter) and they have been stuck in the wrong state, so the transmitter gets stuck giving that error If lowering the throttle and toggling the switches back to their default (all up) is not fixing it, I'd suspect you also have a broken switch Which gives you two options, replace it, or disconnect it and either leave the leads disconnected or connected together (which ever one lets the controller start up)

@@TeamPanicRobotics Thank you for your response, but it seems to have straightened itself out. It drove me to my wits end and sent me seeking help and then just like that, it's working normal again. You suppose it was ashamed that I had to complain about it?😄

it should be, Stick directions are given numbers, that how the mixing works, it mixes 1 with 2 All you need to do is use the "modes" in the menu, and find one where 1 is the forward-backward on the left stick and 2 is left-right on the right stick

@@TeamPanicRoboticsI’m trying to get this working but the problem is that the throttle curve only works on the left stick as far as I can tell

Thats not correct, these transmitters run the same firmware regardless of how the sticks are set up (they sell this same controller with the unsprung stick both left and right and the provided firmware on both options is exactly the same), so in firmware there are the options to treat both sticks exactly the same, if you haven't found the throttle curve for the right stick then it might be berried in a menu or you might need to change some other setting first (like maybe the stick mode) I use stick mode 3 which puts ch 1 as the left/right on the right stick and ch 2 as up/down on the right stick. If I swapped it to stick mode 1 it would put ch 1 as the left/right on the left stick and keeps ch 2 as up/down on the right stick Unfortunately, I'm really not an expert at these controllers, I have exactly one use case for them (setting them up as shown in this video), so I know the settings and setups to get them to do exactly that. But for other use cases, I'm a little out of my depth

Yes, but its the worst possible drive idea Servos, by and large, are both heavier than N20 motors and also slower So, by running servos for drive, you basically ensure that your opponent has a bigger weapon/more armour and can drive circles around you. That's a good way to lose a lot of fights. Having said that, there are a ton of tutorial on youtube that show how to hack a servo into a continuous rotation servo

@@TeamPanicRobotics I figured it out and now the drive works alright but yes I should definitely upgrade to n20 motors. My bot is a 1lb antwight fully 3d printed

@@TeamPanicRobotics My Battlebot: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4868667 I have both a servo and n20 drive version on thingiverse, mine is set up as a servo drive but I made an adapter so I'll be switching as soon as I can

Looks good! Really like the shape of the drum

That can be done with rate limiting I belive, but I've not done it in a long time

The ESC type does not matter when you use this mixing set up. This mix, mixes the signal so that each channel gets the right values for each motor based on your stick position Using this mixing set up you can use a dual channel ESC or two single channel ESCs and it will work equally well

@@TeamPanicRobotics thank you. Do you know if the fs-ia6 reciever works with 7.4v?

I dont know about the big 6ch one that comes with most fs-i6 transmitters but this one does: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pNakZ91ptZmnlY0.html Its a little 4ch one and runs on up to 9v so perfect for running directly from a lipo

Unfortunately I dont have an FSI6X, so I cant be sure, but I think the menu's are very similar

@@TeamPanicRobotics k thx for the reply

That sounds like a problem with your ESCs. With the sticks in the middle, the transmitter will be sending out a middle signal. If the ESC is set up to do forwards and reverse then a middle signal means stop, but if the ESC is set up to only drive in one direction, a middle signal means spin the motor at half speed. To be more helpful then that I need more info. What escs are you using? What motors are you using? What receiver are you using? have you bound the receiver to the transmitter? have you set the fail safe on the reciever?

@@TeamPanicRobotics im using the emax simon series 20 amp esc + bec the sunnysky X2212-13 motors the FS-IA6B receiver and the FS-I6X remote the receiver and the reemote are definetly bound cuzz i have done things in the past. i have no idea about the failsafe for so far i know i have done nothing to change that setting. thnx for the reply

Nope, same set up on the transmitter Just in the tank, hook up 2 escs per channel (or two motors per esc if you are running brushed motors) Much much easier to do somethings in hardware then try to over complicate the software

Honestly, I didnt know that was a thing. I learnt to mix by going to comps and asking for help and the method shown is the method used by everyone in my local club. I'll have to mess around with elevon mixing and get a feel for it. If its just as usable, or easier, I'll have to make a follow up video

mixing means that pushing forward on the control stick turns both motors at the same time. Without mixing, you can change the plugs on your receiver all you like but moving a stick on the transmitter will only move one wheel at a time. This is a type of control, but most people find it more intuitive to have mixing

@@TeamPanicRobotics thanks! I haven't played with a rc car since the 90s. The last buggy I had was a team associated rc-10 b2 or b3. It's been a while. There has been a lot that has changed in world of rc since then. Thank you for the clarification.

Ahhh ok, this video is more focused on combat robots then RC cars. Combat robots tend to use tank steering so that they can turn on a dime. This is good for keeping your robot pointed at your opponent but requires the signals from the transmitter to be mixed together. RC cars still typically use back wheel drive and conventional car steering on the front, which doesnt need mixing