Check out ALL the previous videos on this truck here: kzfaq.info/sun/PL_pBKaJD0nwXf9oif79sFC_0mRX28s6ur&si=aMbAxqlz--1rTbv_

WOW! Diesel Creek fans have been blessed with TWO videos this week! Thanks Matt and thumbs UP! Have an awesome weekend everybody!

Most of the time shims are placed under the springs to adjust spring tension. Once the valves are assembled you use a tool to test how much pressure it takes to open the valve. If the spring has a low tension you place shims under the sprigs until they are within tolerance. If too many shims are needed then the springs need replacing. I explained that to a master mechanic who was rebuilding a D8 engine after it caught fire and he told me to mind my own business, but when they started the dozer up it blew the turbo completely off the engine.

And I remember myself complaining about replacing a 50 year old kitchen faucet. Well, just remembering where I put all those parts would overwhelm me..

The shims are added to make the assembled value hights to what they were set at at the factory. This is important, so the correct valve clearances and rocker angle and ratio can be adhered to. Also the opening pressure of the valve springs can also be set correctly.

The next time you sell at a Auction make it a Buy It Now and click the Immediate Payment Required box. Then you shouldn't get the fake bids anymore. Just make the item a fair price.

Oh hell yeah. Best part of being up at 5am on a Saturday mornings is coffee and diesel creek. Got my coffee,boys. Cheers!

Folks like you who took the time to teach me about how diesels work are much appreciated. Great content, clean editing too.

It is critical that you measure the thickness of your cam follower cover gaskets, it is how the injection timing adjustment is set.

Matt ! The shims under the valve springs are to match all springs with height and tension, measuring the height of each spring before and after installation, this was done in a machine shop ! If you mixed up the springs and valves your going to start from the beginning again!

This is why I enjoy your videos so much.. Simple talk, well explained for dummies like me. No scripting, no creative editing, just a man using his skills in a skillful way.. Keep doing this and you'll keep getting my thumbs! :D

Matt- Make sure to examine the shanks of the head bolts for pitting, and replace if you find any. The pitting is a break in the hardness.

I'm old enough that when I started driving and working on trucks the 220 Cummins was the big dog on the road! The big cam Cummins was a good engine up to about 400 hp. You could get more than that but you were dealing with short life on the bottom end and cracked pistons.

If only a fella had an overhead crane for all the heavy lifting. Always great to see a new upload. Waiting patiently for the Crane install.

Matt, you’re one of the very few KZfaq channels that I can go ahead and click the thumbs up on the intro. When I read Diesel Creek I automatically know it’s going to be some good content from start to finish.

The 4x4 liner removal method: A good workout and kindling- all in one easy operation.

The shims compensate for the change in valve stem height which occurs when the valves are ground and seated to their final installed height in their respective seats. The more the seat and valve are reground or machined, the more the valves stem will travel up into the guide which results in the grooves that retain the upper spring retainer and keeper to travel beyond to top face of the head. This can cause the springs to be less compressed. The shims are used to take up that dimension and if not checked then insufficient spring pressure could result one the keepers falling out in the closed position under operation. You need to keep the valves organized and matched to the where they came out as the end of the valve stems are typically faced to maintain the specific deck height to keep the rocker geometry correct after they are ground and matched to each seat.

After working at Cummins, where we manufactured and assembled that engine, be sure to get the cylinder height right, the cam follower boxes shimmed to the proper height and make sure to indicate the flywheel housing for runout 👍

Nice new parts washer. For those who can't afford one, a standard kitchen dishwasher works great. I got one from "The List" in the free stuff category.

Those shims are hardened steel designed to help prevent springs from "eating"through the relatively soft cast iron head,which is what has caused those counter-bores.

I worked for Georgia Power out of high school for two years with the High Tension Line Construction Division. We had an identical Autocar, except it was 4-wheel drive. It had a Hugh B. Williams hole auger mounted on the bed. That Autocar would go anywhere on the line; it was amazing. I think the truck was 1968, but it had a huge Cat engine. What was so impressive about that digger truck was everything. The hole auger was used to plant guy wire anchors and dig up to a 52-inch hole 12 feet deep. The really cool part was the Williams digger had a Ford 289 HO with headers pointing up with clapper covers with 4V carb. The ID tag listed 300HP. This was back in 1972.

16:00 even the dog is excited for the new tool!

Sweet! Matt doesn't even have to go home now for a shower, that new washer is multi-purpose!

I have a bunch of old cheap plastic backed rugs that were being thrown out. They're great for this type of work. Lay out a rug, your bolts don't roll away, your knees don't hurt, it absobs a little oil. Then just pressure wash it off when you're done.

i first started workin on the cummins in the 1960's mostly nh180/220/250 then i worked on the 555 & 903 v8's always been a great engine. dont make any mistakes adjust tappets & injector, dont remove the cam tappet rollers, it could alter timing.

Matt those cam covers are shimmed to get your timing measure the gaskets and put new shims back also the gasket has the thousands stamped or printed on them if you do not do that you will loose all your geometry from cam to valve lift

Not sure how far along you are on the project now, but I'll offer a few pieces of info I've gathered on these engines. Make sure to get your cam followers shimmed correctly for the engine setup you have (injectors, compression ratio, turbo and how you have your PT pump setup will influence this). The second is with the PT pump itself, there are different sizes of gears, 3/4", 1" and 1 1/4", picking which size depends mostly on how you drive. If you drive a Cummins like its supposed to (high rpms) the smaller pump will be fine, but if you want lower end lugging power, the larger pumps are a good option, just make sure you have a pyrometer to keep an eye on egts if you go this route. I'm not sure how familiar your buddy is with these engines in non stock configuration, but if he isn't, find someone that is that can walk you through all the ins and outs of setting one up correctly, otherwise the engine won't have a long life.

I love working on big ole honking engines. The biggest one I worked on YEARS ago I think was a 278 A Jimmy. (sp). The piston diameter was about 12 " if I remember correctly. Love the old stuff. Good Job Diesel Creek! Your Dad was a good teacher. You are a terrifice restorer. Love the parts washer

The EMD used a piston cooling system that had a dedicated oil pump paired with the main lube pump that fed two that supplied oil to manifolds the fed the "p" pipes that shot oil into a tapered hole in the bottom of the piston carrier that lined up at each cylinder at the bottom of the stroke

The whole reason for shims under the valve springs is to achieve the correct installed height of the spring. The reason they are different is that there are variations in how much wear the valve seats have in relation to one another.

When pulling out the camshaft followers, you have to have a special timing tool to reinstall with the right thickness of gaskets on the follower plate. The best thing to do with the injectors, the brass tubes in the heads, need to replace them if they are scarred. I worked on big cams for many years....big project. Good luck on it.

You use shims to set the assembled height of the valve springs. Many things can cause that distance to change. When you get to the reassembly phase, install the valve, retainer and keepers, then measure from the spring seat to the retainer and use shims to bring them up to spec. Shims come in .015", .030" and .060". All the springs should have that spring seat (dimpled backing plate) to keep them centered. You should also measure the springs at the assembled height and make sure they have enough seat pressure. You can make a poorman's spring tester with a bathroom scale and an arbor press or even a drill press.

the Shims are for the proper spring high. I've see Jims machine on KZfaq rebuild heads and use them to get the proper spring high.

That new work bench you made is freaking sweet! The new parts washer is a nice addition as well and I'm happy to see your old one go to a good home.

Um the cam covers / follower covers, the gasket thickness controls the advance of the.valves ,injection,recommend you save the old gaskets - Cummins call them shims - don’t guess,critical setting:

normally with used parts, you want to put the bits back together in the same order as they were when you took it apart, so the wear on the moving parts match up, but in an engine there ideally shouldn't be any difference in how all the parts are worn. As long as it's not something like a high performance racing engine, it really shouldn't make much difference if it goes back together in the same order

Nice to be young … if I swung that hammer like that now, I’d be in the emergency room :) Changed struts /shocks on my Jetta yesterday and it almost killed me. WATCHING Matt do it is much better -

Man Matt it’s so good to see you enjoying your new shop. You’ve earned it between working in you little shop at you house and out in the elements there . Can’t wait to see you install the wood boiler for your floor. Thank you so much for two videos this week . I look forward to your videos. Think you for letting us follow you along. Hope you and your wife have a blessed day!

There's always that part of the job where you start looking around for the right piece of firewood to whack it with.

Just an FYI. @pacific-northwest hillbilly used thin wire brushes to clean all oil passages and water passages on his block and heads to clean gunk. After the machine shop cut and cleaned his engine, he found still more sludge that the brushes cleaned out. You might want to do it. Obviously you know more than me. I thought it just made sense to have a perfectly clean block and head for a fresh rebuild.

The gaskets on the cam follower assemblies are also timing shims for injector timing. You need to use a micrometer to check the thickness of the gasket pack so you use the correct thickness of replacement gaskets.

Pro Tip, people who own forklifts and are surrounded by ample heavy objects don't need to hammer in or out cylinder sleeves. A small metal (something), pulled by your choice strap/chain will suck them out fast. You can also push them back in using forklift and wooden block. Just seeding ideas for the future.

Slung a rod in my 400 big cam...welded the block and witha sleeve. Welded up the cranck then machined it to match the rest new rod piston she was rebuilt and now running. Aint had no issues running for a year now tough old gal.

I know Matt that you’re busy, but I am patiently waiting for the crane video and also the completion of the autocar engine replacement. I hope you’ll be able to make these videos soon. You have a loyal following wow!

I've rebuilt only one diesel engine in my short time as a diesel mechanic and it was a very large piece of metal. It was in a Ford L-9000 dump truck and there was nothing on it that was light, so Matt if anyone calls you a wimp for gettin the floor jack to help with gettin that head removed then they've never picked one up for sure. I hated mechanic work then and I still do to this day but I will still get my hands greasy if I have to. Love your content Matt! Keep'em coming.

Nice trick with the valve springs. Great to watch you working on the old motor.

Your new parts washer looks like a mini version of the Mart washer our engine rebuild area had , we could wash a EMD 16 cylinder engine block in this machine.

Quick shout out to the Semi-Supervillians! They are up on spotify with a DieselCreek playlist too!

Great job Matt. I can't wait to see that truck with a new engine in it.

It does matter where the rocker boxes go , those gaskets are shims and that helps fuel timing, and if your planning on reusing the cam then I would put them back in the same order..

I'm from Texas. Snow falling like that sends me home! Apparently it doesn't bother you. Lol

the shims are likely there to create the proper spring tension for the valve. It's just a guess, but I've seen it before. Great job Matt!

Hey Matt. It looks like whoever built that engine loved silicone, and you see how it’s in the oil cooler, and the coolant passage. You’re doing right taking all the plugs out of the block and cleaning it really well. I would also consider replacing those piston cooling nozzles, or at least cleaning and verifying their spray pattern. I’ve never touch a Cummins before, but I’d imagine they’re just tubes with orifices in the end. If that silicone got in there, it won’t cool and/or lubricate the piston pack. That may even be why number one liner was scored.

And here it is ladies and gentlemen! Big Cam teardown! Right on Matt! Does your new Temco washer come with an oil skimmer? It will prolong the life of the cleaning solution and reduce bad odours.

Good stuff Matt Definitely remove those gallery end plugs run a rod in there and wash through and dry with air line and blow torch

I love ur videos man ur my inspiration bro ur the one that has inspired me to be a diesel tractor mechanic thank you so much bro I really appreciate you and I have learned so much from your videos I look up to you bro I hope i can be like you one day

Never suspected any damage in any of the cylinders, there isn't a way into them from the oil passages, but it is good that you took apart the heat exchanger, those bits were not helping the engine cool any. Always hit the thumbs up Matt, usually during the intro. Love your channel, and I'll back you up in front of anyone that wants to talk trash about your methods, I can tell you want things done correctly. Sometimes you go overkill on safety and all that, but that's ok.

Matt, not only are you going to blow out your back lifting those covers, It's time to get some knee pads so you don't blow those out from kneeling on that concrete floor!

Free tip… if you paint that thing. Use foam earplugs to protect the bolt holes they are cheap and work great!👍😬

14:47 Ricky would be proud.

That hard tail vise looks massive on that table. That’s not an everyday tool but when you need it, man is it nice to have!

I just ordered a bunch of swag for my son William for his birthday on April 14. He is an Autistic will be 13 year old who adores all of your content . Thank you Matt .

The parts washer , worth its weight in gold! That machine is gonna be an invaluable tool for your shop Matt!👍🇨🇦

I have never seen a tear down of an engine like that. I am looking forward to seeing the build-up of it. Thank you for sharing ! 😊

A 6-71 and big cam Cummins were the first engines I did in diesel school. Good stuff Matt.

@15:52 Even the boss came to see what you got :D

When you engine said its that time of the month broght to you by diesel Creek.😊a rejuvenating experience.

I remember back in the day for you it was brake clean in the dirt to clean parts big step up congratulations

Thanks! Good cleanup and nice parts washer!

“My buddy Sam” would not lead you wrong…..Right! Wow that was a lot of banging on that oak post! Matt you are fun to watch on any day of the week! And I needed two cups of coffee.

Aaaaand once again… “Shim-Shimmery, Shim-Shimmery, shim-shim Sharoo!!!” 😂😂😂😂😂

And now I can enjoy my coffee this morning. Appreciate the videos!

Good afternoon from France.Love a Diesel Creek video

As soon as you started describing the crappy washer, I thought you need a nice big one like Clint has! And viola! One appears like magic, lol.

Hay mat. On the cam followers…. The gasket thickness sets the injectors timing. Put them back where they were. You can check the thickness with a micrometer. That will get you in the ball park. I’m sure Mr scrappy has told you. Hate to see you burn it up. Check the manual.. looking out for you bud

Matt Delivered 2 videos in one week! My man!

Good Day Matt, from GBL-The Ole Church 5 Acre Homestead! That’s a GREAT Truck🚛🚚🛻

Take note of the follower gasket thickness and quantity to maintain established injection timing.

How does it feel, to look around such a nice well lit shop and think "I should have made it bigger!" lol I envy you and your shop!! Well done, and well deserved!

I have two trucks (M923A1) with these 855’s. Gutless but reliable and able to start in all temperatures.

Saturday noon vids are the best 👌🏻

Matt, I just came across your video on the Cummins engine tear down. The way you removed the liners most likely cracked one or more of your piston coolers, that material is very fragile it gets brittle with age and heat should have removed the piston coolers before you removed the liners. You won’t know if one of them is cracked until you crank it up and it galls the piston. You also need to go by the CPL number to set the timing on the cam shaft, it takes a special tool to set it to get the shim thickness on the cam followers. When you put the rocker boxes back on there is different lengths of bolts that holds them on if you get the wrong bolt in the wrong hole on the 3 Intake holes you will brake the casting off and it will get on top of the piston and will ruin your motor, I’ve seen it done. Also the accessory drive pulley has to be pressed on with a special tool, it’s a L-shape rubber grommet that goes in the key way before you put the washer and nut on the accessory drive pulley, if you don’t put it in there you will have a bad oil leak. Need to stand your cam shaft up and tie it to a post or something don’t lay it down.

You in the parts washer! Excellent shot!!

since this truck will eventually be used for longer road trips i'd recommend doing a little interior work to sound "proof" and adding a more comfortable seat. Junkyard digs made a video here recently where he did it on a budget so that could be of use to you too. happy wrenching!

Nice KT3406e uploaded again, wait. It's Diesel Creek! Let's go!

What an awesome engine. Me, I haven't restored anything bigger than a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engine. I'm impresed over all the different skills that you show on your channel. Really impressed.

Mat next you are at the Auction buy 50 ton air over hydraulic. It's silly to leave bits of wood. Keep up the good work I love what you do

Fun to watch him loving every second of it. When he "Sais, we got all the senses flowing due to all the smells." That's Matt's excitement of the job too funny!!!

The rebuild is always more fun, looking forward to it ! Nice upgrade with that parts washer !!

Videos like this is why I watch Diesel Creek. So informative and well done!

Nice! Can’t wait to see part 2! Keep it up Matt!

Hey mat my name is James Luther cantrell and I am from Dalton Georgia I really do like your KZfaq videos and your old toys that helped build America

Great video Matt, can't wait to see it back together. On that note you could always reach out to Warren over at western truck and tractor repair on the KZfaq . As well as being a great dude he is extremely knowledgeable mechanic. Keep up the great content man.

Brother, you have been working like crazy lately, chapeau😂

I'm really glad you passed it on to Srappy , he needs one. Nice to have two friends that work together.

Wow, gotta be accurate with that hammer on those liners! A miss hit would be bad I think...😅

I am completely impressed...you bought something brand spanking new...a new parts washer. You seem to be trying to finish a project...again completly impressed. Thumbs up for sure.

Im glad to see a project progress.

The biggest engine I have ever taken sort of half apart is a 50cc 2 stroke moped motor, and that was 40 years ago. So this is proper scary stuff for me but great to watch.

That's good heritage being on site with the Silver Spade :-)