Had to give it a like after seeing that bicep flex💪

D'oh! Didn't even pay attention to those. Thanks for pointing them out lol, I wouldn't want to dabble with disassembling them either.

I have the knuckle on my TJ, which has a Rubicon D44 in the front. I really like the knuckle. I used Chevy 3/4 ton TREs, and I bought bigger inserts so I could use the Chevy taper. I had to drill out the driver side knuckle. It works ok, but I did not buy offset TREs like the ones that come on the Teraflex tie rod. I am now updating them to that style, and I am installing the Teraflex track bar bracket. I made my own, and it is not as well made as the Teraflex, and does not have a place to install the stabilizer. I did a lot of research before doing my steering conversion. I believe that the Teraflex is the best option.

Awesome

Will the drag link fit the WJ knuckle swap on an XJ without modification?

Great tutorial, though I think it'd been a good idea to remove the brake rotor from the unit bearing to lessen the load on your arms when trying to keep the axle shaft centered. Seems like you're making more work for yourself to try and keep your seals in tact. Would be a lot easier to do so without the extra 10lbs of weight on the end there.

Would you recommend this with a 3 inch suspension lift for a LCOG setup on a 97 TJ?

Old video, but I was wondering I have a artec truss on my d44, I’m looking to put the high steer track bar mounts on. My question is would the axle side mount still fit if I have an artec truss? Thanks!

i put 2.5 in lift my wheels stick out 1/2 to 3/4 inch on drivers side my local shop told told me this is ok to leave it it wont hurt it is this correct my lift came with relocation bracket for the rear

Any pics or info on using the axle side bracket to mount a hydro assist cylinder?

I have a question on your guys 4 inch lcg pro lift for tj. I just got it and got jeep back. The bridge over dif is bolted to diff bolts. Front side its not welded or anything. I was wondering if its suppose to be. Sure looks like it. Ty

11:20 hahaha good stuff!!

My TJ skid plate nuts were spinning, I bought one new set of all 6 from ebay and I amg good to go now..Nice product, Thanks ebay !

What size MTRs are on the Red 4dr in the intro? 35s?

So a drop Pittman arm is not needed with this kit?

how much does a job like this cost?

when welding brackets & using steel proper strength & thickness, how come we don't add a weld notch or thin trench cut, on bracket & frame or member. Smooth is tough esp shit the twists or under flex or suspension loads would seem an easy added margin of strength.

A big load weld could get hugs XXXXXXXXX cut w/dremal.

I think they left them on due to the manual hubs.

it would have been useful if you gave a bit of info on the steering drop link, which one did you use ?

I'm a big fan of you guys! But this high steer kit doesn't appear to bring the tie rod out of harms way, to me it sits too low, any plans on tweaking this? Could you install the lower tie rod on the upper side of the knuckle instead of under?

I was looking at your highsteer setup as an add on to the LCG Long Arm kit, but a little confused by this "High Steer" part. I understand the advantages of getting rid of the inverted Y steering set up from the factory, and that this is certainly superior, but how is this considered a "Hi Steer" set up when in the video you mounted the tie rod ends on the under side of the knuckles? The whole idea of a high steer setup is to move the steering components up higher, away from the risk of impact. The set you did in the video was a whole lot of work, but by using the straight across, knuckle to knuckle tie rod in the same undermount orientation, you've actually reduced component clearance. Why would you do all that work and not "flip" them all to the upper sides? In the video you mention upper mounting is an option, but when you were setting up the new sway bar link mounts, it didn't look like there would be enough clearance for them.

So whats the benifit of this Hi-steer?

what the Civic???

ball joints basic r going away & replaced w/ stronger joint med grade or hymm heavy grade & every thing is getting beefier. They hve a rebuild-able super ball joint lifetime of tires deal also.

why do all this conversion on a D30 when it is going to break as soon as you hit a speed bump in a parking lot?

father in law teaches welding & worked in tight submarines, where u get it right or billion dollar steel rock guess should hve asked him.

It cost 1500.00

I think rotors r to hard & should wear more, so pads last longer. Bc not much diff in price for racing pads carbon fiber or such anymore, & labor is about the same doing rotor & pads, & no 1 really resurfaces them unless big truck rotors. God just guessing but if rotors slotted & cross drilled & softer metal I'll beat w/the right softer metal & wear we could shave another 10ft off the stopping distance vs hard tuff long wear rotors. F-that lets make them wear out same time +a yr as pads do.