Oh wow, now that is some feedback there. Thank you very much for taking the time to let me know all those things! I really, really appreciate that and to me this is worth way more than numbers. Speaking of which, my channel is less than a year old and I don't have the time and energy to put out crazy numbers of videos 😅 so it will never get big and that's okay with me (I don't need to make money with it), but when I have an idea that I think has not been talked about and can contribute to the community, I try to do that. Very happy that I inspire you to take out your drone. Hope you had a great time and again, thank you very much for letting me know. Greetings from Madeira (where I'm right now... there might be a video coming some time soon 😜)

@@t0mwhazzup you do not need to put out a crazy amount of videos. As long as your videos are informative and high quality, you achieved a great result. Well done.

True to some extent, but still you need some kind of regular schedule to get bigger. More important to me to make helpful content that people really can make a use of. Again, thanks for letting me know, I appreciate that 🙂

I thought the same thing ,not only more subs but 5 months in you have 17k views and less than 1000 thumbs up. This video deserves many more.

Thank you very much for your comment.. I really appreciate it! Yes, there are lots of misconceptions and it's not an easy subject to get your head around.

@@t0mwhazzup You're absolutely correct. Thanks again.

Frame rate is like religion sometimes. I'm okay with 24 fps (even though it's technically incorrect for most computer/smartphone screens) for most types of footage, but with drone footage it just sucks because playback is so uneven. For YT stuff I'd always do 30 fps all the way, since it's judder free and still has the cinematic look since it's close to 24 fps. Professionally we adapt the frame rate to the project. If it's for broadcast, we go for 25 fps (PAL here in Europe), if it's for online/digital/social media, we do 30 fps... and if, hypothetically, we'd produce movies for cinema, which we don't (but would be nice haha), we'd do 24 fps. It just depends on the purpose. For YT, especially in combination mit drones, it's no good in my opinion.

Might be, yeah, it really depends on the machine your watching it on.

Thank you very much 🙂

Very welcome :) Thanks for your comment!

Thank you very much! I'm very glad that you liked my video and I hope that you can make use of my other videos as well :)

Very happy to hear that. And thank you very much for letting me know :)

Thank you very much for your feedback, it means a lot :)

Thank you for your feedback, I appreciate it 🙂

Thanks, Chris, for your positive feedback! Happy if I was able to explain those things clearly because this topic is so myth-loaded (24 fps = cinema, no matter what) and rigidly handled and to be honest, I was simply sick of watching awfully juddering drone videos that were otherwise fantastic. Maybe one day word gets around. As for upcoming videos, I have some ideas that I am planning out right now, some tutorial videos and two or three short film projects. So there's going to be new stuff, but as most of it is rather extensive in terms of travel and workload and I do it in my spare time, it's going to take a bit. I'd be happy if you subscribed and hit the bell, it supports the channel and you'll be notified when the next video is out :) Thanks again for your feedback, it really helps me to make useful content in the future. Have a great weekend!

@@t0mwhazzup - I've noticed that another potential cause of clip stutter is the microSD card write rate. Most people use a C10/U3 V30 whereas professionals use the C10/U3 V60 or V90 speed class. With drones like the Mini 3 Pro offering 100+mbps write rate and the Mavic 3 shifting up to 150mbps to the microSD, using a slower card hobbles the clip as it is being written, but like you said: separating myth from common sense is not an easy task, so trying to explain this is the equivalent of banging your head off a brick wall. Look forward to seeing your new content.

Hmm not sure about the memory card thing. Don't forget that it's 150 Mbit but the writing speed on the cards is MByte. so 150 Mbit equals to a little less than 20 MByte/s, which V30 cards are easily capable of. I just finished recordings in one island, not sure when the video will be ready. Guess some time in May maybe.. things go pretty slow these days, unfortunately.

Thank you very much for your feedback, I appreciate it 🙂

Thanks for your comment 🙂

Thanks for your feedback :) Appreciated!

Thank you very much for your feedback! I really appreciate it! :) 120 or 144 Hz displays should also be able to play back 24 fps video evenly, but it's just a minority of devices.

Yeah exactly. It is so strange, it is very common in a professional video environment to make a project's frame rate fit to the intended viewing device. Only in the KZfaq "filmmaker" world everybody goes crazy about 24 fps because it is supposed to look like cinema. But it doesn't - in cinema, there is no judder because cinema can display "real" 24 fps. Most smartphones and computers can't. You get, depending on the content, a juddery mess - and in drone video due to its camera movements it is the worst. Happy that you like your progress with 30 fps ☺️

Thank you for your feedback! Happy that it helped 🙂

Thank you :)

Thanks for your feedback! Really appreciated! Hopefully the word gets around some day that especially for drone footage the compatibility between video fps and screen refresh rate (which is usually 60 Hz) is very important 🙂

Thank you so much for your feedback, I really appreciate it and I am happy that my content is helpful to you 🙂

Thank you so much for your feedback 🙏🏼

You're very welcome, thanks a lot for your feedback. Happy to help 🙂

Thank you so much for your feedback!

Thank you very much for my feedback. I'm really glad if my video was of help to you. Sorry for my delayed answer. All the best :)

Rajesh, thank you so much for your kind comment. I really appreciate feedback like that - way more than subscriber count :)

Thank you very much for your feedback! Happy if it helps! ☺️

Your welcome 🙂 Thanks for your comment!

Very happy if it worked for you! Unfortunately, people create myths about frame rates... but it's simple math and in professional environment, frame rates are always chosen dependent on the viewing environment, so that you don't get these judder problems. But I guess that's the difference between KZfaq folks and professionals ;)

True that! Maybe at some point in the future the majority of creators will understand... but until then, 24/25 fps judder it is ;)

What if my production includes both, drone footage and dslr? If my drone is set to 30fps, should I set my camera to 30fps as well? Hope that's not a silly question.

@spider7studio No, not silly at all. Ideally the frame rate is all the way the same throughout a project, so if you go for 30 fps, select that on all your cameras 🙂

@@t0mwhazzup Thank you !

Hey Tom, awesome, many thanks! Finally I found what I was looking for a while! Now I just wonder... I'm in Europe, so I get, that if I will make my drone footage 30fps, with 1/60 shutter speed while filming outdoors through the day, it will be all OK, but then want to make some brolls, when I'm getting to the mountain cottage within the evening, so there will be lights. Should I set my camera then again to 30fps, and change shutter speed to 1/50 to avoid flickering? So in the end I will have 30fps timeline, where one footage will be from drone with 30fps - 1/60 and second from DJI Pocket 3 with 30fps, but 1/50? Do I get your message correct? Thanks a lot, this is mystery, which was basically making me doing nothing for months! @@t0mwhazzup

Thanks a lot 🙂

Happy to help 🙂 Thanks for your feedback 🤗

Thank you very much 🙂

Vielen lieben Dank, ich freu mich wirklich sehr, dass es so hilfreich und klar ist :)

Hey there, German friend! :) Thank you very much for your feedback, I really appreciate you taking time to let mw know. I hope you enjoy your drone and video editing journey as much as I have. Again, thank you for your kind words :)

Thank you so much for your feedback! I really appreciate it and I am glad if my content is helpful to you. If you maybe haven't seen it yet, I have a few more video tutorials online about improving drone footage ("Ultimate Guide to Pro Quality Footage") and color grading ("Color Grading D-Cinelike").

You're welcome! Hope it helps to get rid of judder in your videos!

True, that's also a way to do it :)

Hi Horst, thank you! I have done very little slow motion with drones so far. So you film 60 fps and do your projects in 30 fps, am I understanding that right?

Hey there, thank you for your detailed comment. You're right - there is a difference between 24 and 30 fps, with 24 fps being more "cinematic" simply because it is cinema standard. On common computer/smartphone screens (60 Hz) however, it looks way worse because of the judder, no smooth movement possible. When you have a screen that can display both frame rates natively and judder free, there is a difference although I find the 20 % less frames per second of 24 fps vs. 30 fps not that much of a game changer, but that might be very subjective. And another observation I made: on my Macbook Pro M1 Max and my iPhone 14 Pro (both able up to 120 Hz with ProMotion) 24 fps videos still judder. I don't know why, the only explanation I have is that the ProMotion feature can go up to 120 Hz but for some reason doesn't when playing back 24 fps videos. Anyway, I think the goal should be to produce content that is viewable in a good and smooth quality not only on premium monitors but the majority of them, so I promote my method of 30 fps (and ideally 1/48 or 1/50 sec shutter speed). When it comes to the shutter angle, you're absolutely right. With drones (without variable aperture) I can only approximate the "best" shutter angle because I need to adjust exposure with shutter speed (and ND filters). But with cameras and VND filters, I usually film with 30 fps 1/50 sec, which is a close approximation to 1/48. The main reason is avoiding flickering lights in my area (PAL) when filming in 30 fps, but the "enhanced" motion blur with 1/50 also might help. Though I don't really think there's much of a difference to notice, but technically, you're absolutely right. Nice to see that some people have deeper understanding of this issue :)

Thank you for your feedback :)

Freut mich sehr, danke für das Feedback 🙂 In Wien fliege ich eigentlich nicht, weils ja de facto nicht erlaubt ist. Leider! Wien hätte so schon einiges zu bieten. Ich flieg eigentlich fast ausschließlich im Urlaub oder wenn ich irgendwo außerhalb unterwegs bin ☺️ Aber man weiß ja nie!

Hey Tom, das hat sich mit August letzten Jahres geändert! Seither gilt: mit Drohnen der Klasse C0 darf in Wien bis zu einer maximalen Flughöhe von 30 Meter prinzipiell in nicht-luftraumsensiblen Gebieten (Helikopter Landeplätze etc.) ohne Genehmigung geflogen werden! Kontaktiere am besten die Zweigstelle der AustroControl, die helfen eigentlich gerne weiter. Zach kann es da höchstens mit der Wahrung der Persönlichkeitsrechte und des Datenschutzes werden - deine Nachbarin im Bikini auf der Dachterrasse ausspähen ist unter diesen Gesichtspunkten natürlich nach wie vor untersagt - derartiges kann dir wenn's blöd hergeht auch ohne Absicht passieren.

@@christian-schubert Dankeschön 🙂 Ich weiß - deswegen schreib ich ja, de facto, weil du dich in Wien fast überall im 2,5 km Radius eines Spitals bzw Heliport befindest 😉 C0 und auch nicht CE zertifizierte Drohnen unter 250 Gramm betrifft das.

Thank you very much for your feedback and your support ☺️ I really appreciate it! As for 24 fps, it is not the devil per se. It has its place in cinema where it can be displayed natively and smoothly. But it is incompatible with most computer and smartphone screens and therefore you should always adapt your project framerate to the intended display device. So for KZfaq and its mostly 60 Hz screens device it should be 30 fps for filmic/cinematic look and 60 fps for a more real life or live sports feeling.

Thank you so much for your comment, I really appreciate you taking the time. Well, what can I say.. I have crashed three drones in one year, so... better be paranoid ;) No, just kidding. I have the DJI care refresh insurance, so I don't really worry too much and I try to get the shots I want, even if they are risky like in narrow spaces etc. So the insurance really gives me ease of mind. No special background here, just a lot of dedication and passion for what I do. I think that's the secret. Again, thank you for your feedback, it means a lot. Glad I could help! :)

Thank you very much for your feedback 🤗

Happy that you still liked the video even though you learned nothing new 🤗

24 fps timelines don't work well for smartphone/tablet/desktop displays. You gotta create your projects with a 30 fps timeline and put your footage on there. If you want 60 fps slowed down on the 30 fps timeline, slow it down to 50 %. If you have your footage recorded in 24 fps, make it faster (125 %) on the 30 p timeline to get rid of the judder. 25 fps footage faster to 120 %. And for future use, try 30 fps recording for realtime and 60 fps for slow motion (50 % speed on the 30 fps timeline).

Thanks for your feedback! Really depends. 90 might be ok, 45 will have a stuttery look, at least at 24-30 fps. When you use higher fps like 60 fps, the difference between shutter angles becomes less noticeable. But with normal realtime framerates like 24, 25 and 30 fps, I'd try to stick to around 180 degrees more or less.

Hey James, thanks a lot for your comment, I really appreciate your feedback. Very happy if it helped 👌🏼

@@t0mwhazzup It did and I thank you for it 👍😉

Thanks for your comment! When I got into drones, I've always wondered why most drone videos are so choppy. I really don't see how all the "pros" can ignore that, and this constant advice for 24 fps is really strange to me. I really feel like I'm the only one in the YT world that seems to be aware of that (but obviously I'm not, thank you). Funny thing is, they all tell you about ND filters to get smooth footage, but not about framerate. Honestly, ND-less drone footage at 30 fps still looks better than 24 fps with NDs. (I'm using NDs). In the professional video world, it is completely common (and common sense) to choose the framerate used depending on the output device. If it's cinema, then 24 fps, if it's broadcast 25 (PAL) or 30 (NTSC) fps, and digital/online content 30 fps. I am just wondering why some of the pros on YT still choose 24 fps. I mean, many of them do "real" pro work (outside of YT) so they should know.

Thank you very much for your kind feedback - I really appreciate it :) Regarding your question... yes, this will cause irregular movement again. Actually, you cannot really smoothly slow down 30 fps footage on a 30 fps timeline, because it's already realtime. There are, depending on your program, frame interpolation algorithms you could use, which calculate new frames out of the existing ones, but this works sometimes better, sometimes worse... for slow motion, I'd use 60 fps footage on a 30 fps timeline - this gives 2x slow motion. If you'd want something just slightly slower than real time, you have to either live with juddering/stuttering footage, use these interpolation methods.. or another way would be to use 30 fps footage on a 24 fps timeline, this way you could put the 30 fps footage on 80% speed so that it plays back evenly on a 24 fps timeline. The problem here is that you'd still end up with a 24 fps timeline, i.e. a 24 fps exported video, which will not play smoothly in itself on most screens - as explained in this video ;) I'd try to go the frame interpolation route if I really needed to slow down footage just by a small percentage. Look out for artefacts in the footage after interpolation. Maybe not the response you wanted to read, but I nevertheless hope that it helps :)

@t0mwhazzup It is definitely the response I wanted and even beyond. Thank you so much for your explanation, which is very much appreciated. I just noticed the silliness of my question. It is due to the fact that I always work on a 24fps timeline and slowing a 30fps footage down to 80% in there is fine and is what I usually do :) But as you clearly explained in this video, this method would still cause the judder. Ok then, 60fps on a 30fps timeline, slowed down to 50%, seems to be the easiest solution for smooth and judder free slow motion. Unless I want to complicate things a little bit and shoot in 48fps (which, as you know, the Mini 3 Pro can also do) and do some more math to slow it down properly (probably 62,5% ?🤔). Also, thanks for the interpolation tip. If you use Premiere Pro, you are probably talking about the "Optical Flow". I've used it a couple of times on DSLR footage but, as you rightly highlighted, it created unpleasant artefacts which led me to keep the footage at the original speed. I never tried it on drone footage but I'll certainly give it a go if needed. Maybe it gives better/acceptable results when there's not much going on/more static pixels in the scene? I'm very grateful to you for taking the time to respond and help :))

@@ClaudioDesideriFilms This 80% speed footage has something about it (in certain situations), it has some magic to it, yet is not slow motion... so I get you :) I just don't use it myself. You could of course film in 48 fps and put it on a 30 fps timeline, if you know already during filming what you want to slow down by how much. I honestly don't :) With conventional drone footage it's easy for me, because drone footage in itself is usually slow, so I have almost never the need to slow it down (rather speed it up, if any speed change), so I film everything on my drone in 30 fps usually (except for FPV stuff which I film in 4K60, but still put it on a 30 fps timeline). But FPV is faster and might be slowed down or speedramped. I use Davinci Resolve, but it's also Optical Flow there. Exactly :) It works good in DaVinci, but sometimes you get artefacts.

Today's TVs are usually easy going and have variable refresh rates, so they accept any framerate well. 24, 25, 30 (48, 50, 60). I guess with sequence frame rate you mean the timeline/project framerate? This should be the same as the frame rate you record your footage in, so my recommendation would be 30 fps (to be compatible with TV, smartphones, computers). Don't mix frame rates if possible, otherwise you'll again have to deal with skipped frames or judder.

And thank you very much for your feedback 🤗

@@t0mwhazzup Thanks so much for your shared advices, Tom :)

Very welcome! Thanks for letting me know :)

@@t0mwhazzup no problem 👍

Thank you very much for your feedback! Yeah, never mix frame rates. The 24 fps myth is only that, but it sticks around very much still. It works for cinema, but not on computer displays. So I'd film everything in 29.97 or 30 fps (doesn't make a difference really) and create your project timeline in the video editor also at 29.97/30 fps. This should give you the smoothest results. If you produce content for watching in cinemas, then, yes, 24 fps, but for digital/online/social media stuff to be watched on smartphones or computers, 30fps is your safest bet.

Thanks so much for coming back to me, that's realty appreciated 👍. Looking forward to changing how I work with new frame rate and timeline. Since your watching your video it's made me realise why some of my DSLR stuff isn't perfectly smooth. I thought I was imagining it before but now I know the theory of the refresh rates it makes perfect sense. Thanks a lot and I look forward to your future content.

Thank you very much for your feedback 🙂

Yes, this is most probably a result of the Long GOP compression. Leaves in a tree especially in windy conditions are a good example for that. If that's the reason, unfortunately there is no fix in post I am aware of... and All-Intra codecs are only available with the Mavic 3 Cine series unfortunately :(

😅 Well, it's normal. 24 fps is cinema and is therefore the best 😉 Even if you cannot really see 24 fps on most screens because of the incompatible screen refresh rates 😉 But if the footage is good and it is only available in 24 fps, well then simple use it. In most types of footage it won't be that noticeable.

I feel the same. Lots of awesome drone content out there, but most of it with this judder problem. All because of this 24 fps cinematic myth crap.. Mini 3 Pro is amazing for its size. I have an Air 3 now, too, because of it's size/weight (wind!) and of some features that will suit me very well for some upcoming projects. I have not yet checked the footage quality, but as it is the same sensor size but newer technology compared to the Mini 3 Pro, I assume the quality will be almost the same, little bit better maybe. But the quality of the Mini 3 Pro is more than sufficient for most stuff IF you know what you do. I think you confuse something here. I guess you're talking about that "trick" that is often used for handheld footage to make it look more stable and smooth. For drone footage, that does not really apply because drone footage in itself is already stabilized (except for FPV footage), so you don't need that. Slow motion in drones makes only sense if you want exactly that: depict something in slow motion. Which is very rare for drone footage, from my experience. 90-95% is real time, 8-9% is sped up and 1% is slow motion. Apart from depicting something in slo mo, there's no benefit in using higher frame rates on a 30 fps timeline. You'll even lose some image quality because the available bitrate (150 MBit/s for the Mini 3 Pro) will be spread out over 60 frames instead of 30 frames. So, half the data per frame. If it is noticeable? I don't know. But if I don't need the higher frame rate, I'd always opt for the same frame rate from start to finish.

I'd like to answer why 30fps not 60fps.... In 30 the outcome movie on screen will have a look of "softness" known in cinema movies... If you go with 60fps ,yes, u will gain sharpness but your movie will look more like "soft opera" one.... Not a plesent or professional look at all... Typically 60 and above fps is barely useful for slowing down footage to maintain sharpness and details of slowed down footage. If you slowed down footage taken at 30fps you may end up with fuzzy details.....

Thank you for your feedback 🤗

Usually, neither 60 fps nor 30 fps should be juddery. Are you using ND filters? If you don't, and therefore have fast shutter speed, it lacks motion blur and even though it is a different problem, it might appear similar to judder from wrong fps.

When you're doing 30 fps and work with the right shutter angle, you are doing everything right to get smooth video. Can you describe the lagging a little more, or maybe have an example clip to look at? Is the lagging only in DaVinci Resolve or also after you rendered the video and play it back in a media player (like Quicktime, VLC and alike)?

@@t0mwhazzup i have small lagging inside davinci also but I noted every time when I playing inside the davinci the same clips are lagging but in different time positions (not lagging exactly the same place.. after rendering little more smooth on QuickTime Player than VLC player (when using vlc player colors are good but I have 90% lagging)

Yeah, you need to go all the way 30 fps. Shooting, timeline and export. Then it should be smooth. If it still does not look as smooth as you like, one common reason is a shutter speed too high. That happens when you don't use ND filters. This phenomenon is not judder, but it looks similar.

@t0mwhazzup I think you're right for the shutter speed as the issue is spectacular on the rotation moves specially on the horizon for me!😁👌🏻👌🏻

@@yellonight For that I have made a tutorial that should cover all settings for perfect video quality, which also includes things like stutter and ND filters: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a8efp8yGqpPNf58.html Maybe it helps :)

@@t0mwhazzup 😁🙏🏻

Haha, thanks 😅

I fine adjust by varying the shutter speed. If you stay between 1/30 and 1/80, it doesn't really matter. I personally prefer the slower shutter speeds between 1/30-1/60 (when possible) because I love the more blurry look, but that's a matter of taste. I wouldn't stick to 1/60 all the time and sacrifice exposure because drones with small sensors like the Mini 3 Pro don't have a lot of dynamic range (read: exposure latitude) so you better well expose in the first place and don't adjust afterwards. Exposing too bright might produce overexposed spots that can't be recovered, and exposing too dark and raising exposure in post also raises the noise (especially in those small sensor drones). I have a video on my channel about color grading D-Cinelike where I also explain how to expose small sensor drones for maximum image quality and low noise. Maybe that helps!

@@t0mwhazzup yup thx that's exactly what I wanted to know shutter speed range 1/30 to 1/80 to keep things smooth why'll allowing me to dial in exposure.

@@kosmonparran4495 Perfect 🙂 And here are the links, the first video is the color grading video, where I later explain how to expose for best quality. And the second one is an all around tutorial for the best settings for top quality, also going more into the use of ND filters. Color Grading D-Cinelike - DJI Mini 3 Pro kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bq-bhsZzmKyrdIU.html The ULTIMATE Guide to PRO QUALITY Drone Footage - DJI Mini 3 Pro kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a8efp8yGqpPNf58.html

@@t0mwhazzup much appreciated!

Ich mache keine gemischten Videos. Für mich persönlich machen 24 fps für Online Content einfach wenig Sinn. Du siehst zwar bei "normaler" Kamerafootage den 3:2 Pulldown judder nicht so stark wie bei Drohnenaufnahmen, aber du siehst auf einem 60 Hz Bildschirm (das sind immer noch die meisten Bildschirme) sowieso keine richtigen 24 fps, selbst wenn das Video 24 fps hat. Mein Tipp: versuch mal 30 fps für deine normale Footage, aber statt 1/60 Sekunde Belichtungszeit (180 degree shutter rule) versuch mal 1/50 oder sogar 1/40. Dann bekommst du so ziemlich den selben motion blur pro frame wie mit 24 fps und 180 degree shutter rule. Und ich bin mir sehr sicher, wenn man dieselbe Szene (gleiche Schauspieler, gleiche Set-Beleuchtung, gleiche shutter speed (1/48 sec oder 1/50 sec) und sonst auch alles gleich macht, wird der Unterschied zwischen 24 und 30 fps ziemlich egal sein (außer dass auf den meisten Bildschirmen bei 30 fps kein judder passieren wird, ob sichtbar oder nicht). Wenn du aber unbedingt 24 fps verwenden willst, dann würde ich es so machen, wie ich es in diesem Video gemacht habe: 60 fps Timeline, und auf die legst du dann deine 30 fps drone footage (die bleibt smooth, weil 60 durch 30 teilbar ist) und deine 24 fps footage. Die wird juddern, nur passiert der 3:2 pulldown halt zwischen footage und timeline, und nicht zwischen timeline und Monitor refresh rate :) Ich hoffe, ich konnte dir ein bisschen weiterhelfen :)

First off, I assume you intend your videos to be played back on smartphones or computers (which are 60 Hz mostly), not in cinema. I hope this assumption is right. If you already have your footage recorded and it is 24 fps (vlog) and 30 fps (drone), use a 30 fps timeline and export in 30 fps. This way, you can ensure that at least the drone footage is judder-free (30 fps footage on 30 fps timeline on 60 Hz display = all compatible). The 24 fps vlogging footage will technically be juddering, BUT it would be juddering anyway on a computer/smartphone screen. The good thing is, with common vlogging footage and the nature of the camera and subject motion of vlogging footage, chances are, you won't notice any judder at all. Judder becomes mostly visible with even camera movements like most drone footage has (pans, tilts etc.), so your priority should be getting your drone footage smooth, therefore my recommendation for 30 fps all the way from start to end. Just for your information: If you put your mixed fps footage on a 24 fps timeline, the vlogging footage would fit perfectly on your 24 fps timeline while 6 frames of the drone footage would be skipped every second. AND when you later playback your 24 fps video on a computer/smartphone (60 Hz), everything would be juddering because nothing would fit at all. So with the 30 fps timeline, you could at least "save" your drone footage (30 fps all the way from start to finish). And on the vlogging footage, the judder will most likely go unnoticed. For future projects, I'd strongly recommend to record all your footage in 30 fps, put it on a 30 fps timeline and export it in 30 fps, then everything is compatible and technically correct. If you have any further questions, just let me know, I'm happy to help :) And thank you very much for your kind words, I really appreciate them.

Well, that's the thing. If you mix footage with different fps, you have to decide for one frame rate for the timeline. As I explain in this video, a 24 fps timeline is not compatible with most computer and smartphone monitors (60 Hz). Why would you record 24 fps footage anyway? I'd always argue for 30 fps timelines for KZfaq/Online/Social Media purposes because screens are 60 Hz mostly. 24 fps does only make sense if your project is intended to be viewed in cinema, then it can be displayed correctly. But yes, if you already have your camera footage with audio in 24 fps, you can either interpret drone footage as 24 fps as well in a 24 fps timeline (everything will judder on standard monitor), or you put everything on a 30 fps timeline, so the drone footage can be displayed smoothly and the normal footage will double up every 5th frame in order to play in the 30 fps timeline. And as judder or doubled/skipped frames in normal footage are usually not that visible, I'd rather go that way. But try it out yourself. Hope that helps :)

Thank you very much for your feedback! In general, computer and smartphone display refresh rate standard is 60 Hz, independent of PAL or NTSC, so 30 fps video will be fine. With TVs it can be different, but from what I know, most modern TVs are variable refresh rate and can adapt at least between 50 and 60 Hz (or multiples thereof), so you'll be fine there as well with 30 fps video (e.g. playing back KZfaq on TV). IF you talk about actual broadcast (i.e. your content is broadcasted by a TV station and you watch it on your TV), then you should choose frame rate dependent on the broadcast standard in your area (PAL or NTSC). At our video prouction company, we do it the same. Projects for broadcast we do in 25 fps (PAL country here), projects for online we do in 30 fps.

@@t0mwhazzup Thank you very much for taking your time answering. Much appricated. When I saw your video, which is obviously directed mainly for dronefootage in daylight, I wrongly thought "ok so judder problem is a 180 degree rule issue not mainly fixed only by increasing speed from 24/25 to 30 fps". When I found 30 fps as sort of a sweetspot between 25 and 50 and 1/50th shutterspeed in line with as well PAL 50 Hz and RED camera websites calcukator recommendations (1/50th,1/100th or 1/33,3th) for "safe" flicker free video with 30fps in PAL country I thought I could forget about these setting and focus on other. Again, when I saw the video I thought that mayby my judder problems was not only due to fast panning speed (your clips mainly filming in forward direction) but a 180 degree rule problem. Did I have to choose between flickerfree or judderfree ? On top of that PAL/NTSC 50Hz/60HZ electric net ,laptob vs TV display refreshrate and questions made it more confusing. HOWEVER..puh...there are more important issues in the world right know. Thanks again and wish you all the luck with your videochannel.

@@jansvedberg Thank you so much! In PAL country when using 30 fps, choose 1/50 or 1/100 shutter speed to stay flicker free. 1/50 will be closer to 180 degree shutter role, so U'd prefer that whenever possible.

Frame rate is like religion, somehow. For most situation it really is not that important whether it's 24, 25 or 30 fps, you don't see the judder in most types of footage and situations, but with drone footage it really matters and 24/25fps just don't work on the majority of computer screens (= 60 Hz).

Thank you very much for your feedback :) Most TVs can switch between 50 and 60 Hz (or multiples thereof). But for computer/smartphone/tablet displays generally, no. There are some displays that have variable refresh rates (or very high refresh rates like 120 or 144 Hz where incompatibilities don't matter so much), but for the majority, the standard is still fixed 60 Hz. I personally use 30 fps for all kinds of footage because my target medium is always KZfaq or some other online/digital/social media stuff that's watched mainly on 60 Hz screens. The thing is, these frame rate/refresh rate incompatibilities are not always visible, it depends on the kind of footage. Drone footage is probably the worst in that regard. But I think, why mix frame rates at all, and so I stick with 30 fps video for my personal stuff. And from a professional's perspective (my wife and I run a video production company) the same is valid: always choose the frame rate for the target medium. If we produce content for digital/online/social media, we usually go for 30 fps. If we produce for broadcast, we go for 25 fps (because broadcast here in Europe is PAL standard, i.e. 25/50 fps). Sorry it took so long to answer, but I hope it helps. Cheers :)

@@t0mwhazzup This is priceless information ! Thank you for taking the time to answer me !

@@paulthiebaut You are very welcome. If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. You see, it might take me some time to answer, but I always try to take my time answering when I finally do :) Have a nice evening!

@@t0mwhazzup appreciate it really, I don’t know why I wasn’t subbed yet ! Greetings from France : )

60 fps is definitely the smoothest and handles turns the best. But it really depends on what your aiming for because 60 fps lacks the film-like qualities associated with lower frame rates (24-30). The other thing is, the quality of each frame at 60 fps is less because it squeezes double the frames into the same amount of data (bitrate) compared to 30 fps. Not a problem if you don't push the footage, but with harder color grades it might fall apart earlier.

Me personally, when filming with my main camera (not drone), I usually go for 30 fps and 1/50 of a second in order to avoid flickering lights AND me personally, I prefer the slower shutter speeds. But between 1/50 and 1/60 there is not really that much of a visible difference. When it comes to drones and natural light, I generally try to use something between 1/30 and 1/60 because with drone footage, I think the slower shutter speeds and the increased motion blur works soooo well. But as drone sensors don't have that much exposure latitude, I prioritize perfect exposure (as bright as possible without overexposing relevant parts of the footage) over the "right" shutter speed. I explain it in another video (link at the end of the comment). So with drones, I try to stay between 1/30 to 1/60, but will go up to 1/80 or 1/100 if necessary. Even though I feel like the motion is starting to stutter with those slightly faster shutter speeds. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a8efp8yGqpPNf58.html

@@t0mwhazzup thank you for coming back to me and sharing this information. I appreciate it, I’m going to give it a try and see what sort of results I can achieve with this shutter speed range. I’ll also check out the video you have recommended! Thanks again 🙏🏾

@creativcluster I really hope it helps 🙂

@@t0mwhazzup thanks you I will give it a try and see my results! Thanks for putting out great content, keeping doing so and you have a new sub!

Thank you 🙏🏼

In your scenario you get only little judder because there's only little or slow movement. Of course you can do that 🙂 but you'd still limit your motion possibilities by using a technically incorrect frame rate. If I'd deliver the stuff I do for broadcast in anything else than the correct frame rate (in that case that would be 25 fps), the TV station would reject it.

Thanks for sharing your experience, you're right that 60 fps is even smoother than 30 fps (I mention that in the video, too), but it looks not like a movie (where the standard would be 24 fps). 30 fps is closer to 24 fps, so that works, but you're right, pans look smoother at 60 fps compared to 30 fps. Especially when you don't use ND filters and your shutter speed is high.

Thank you very much for your feedback! 🙂 What exactly do you mean by saying 60 fps in 60 Hz and 50 Hz? Do you mean for 60 Hz/50 Hz areas (mains frequency) or 60 Hz/50 Hz display refresh rate?

@@t0mwhazzup 🙂 Thanks for your quick reply. I was looking at 60 Hz/50 Hz areas mains frequency, but also any tips on display refresh rate would be great 👍

@@Rob.P The easy part first: when it comes to displays, always make your videos for 60 Hz displays, that means: 30 fps (for filmlike look) or 60 fps (for more real/sports-like look) timeline. Reason: all consumer displays are able for 60 Hz, so they can playback 30 & 60 fps videos smoothly. The shutter speed is not relevant for display refresh rate, only the video frame rate. When it comes to the mains frequency... it is really only an issue when you have artificial lights in your shot. If not, you don't need to care at all because there are no sources for flickering. If there is artificial lights in your shot, in 60 Hz areas (America mostly), you can use any shutter speed with 30/60fps. In 50 Hz countries, you need to use 1/50 sec or 1/100 sec. With 60 fps, you'll only be able to use 1/100 sec flicker free. In order to be safe, do a test recording and review the video for flicker. There is also a good flicker calculator which you can use: www.red.com/flicker-free-video And independent of the flickering issue, always try to keep the shutter speed around double the frame rate to have the best-looking amount of motion blur. For 30 fps, around 1/60 of a sec, for 60 fps around 1/120 of a sec. A little bit up or down doesn't matter. Use ND filters if necessary. I have uploaded a video about maxing out the footage quality of drone video yesterday, there I discuss a lot of those things regarding shutter speed as well in more context. Maybe that helps as well: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a8efp8yGqpPNf58.html

@@t0mwhazzup 🙂 Thanks for providing so much good information Tom. I have a much better understanding. I'm going to watch your video "about maxing out the footage quality of drone" as well. Thanks again 👍

@@Rob.P You are very welcome! I am happy if the effort I put into it actually helps 🙂 Thanks for letting me know!

Thank you!

Great question. Unfortunately, there is no completely satisfying answer to the problem with your sunset example. I'd suggest, if you know beforehand what you want to shoot, take off twice. Once with a lighter ND (or without ND) for the shadows, and once with a stronger ND for your sunset shots. In general, if you record in D-Log M with your Air 3, you might have a bit of room for underexposure which can be corrected in post. I have an Air 3 myself, but too little time so far to test out its dynamic range. When it comes to shutter speed, independent of the focal length, the 180 degree shutter rule would always suggest 1/60 sec for 30 fps footage. If you ask me personally, I really, really prefer even slower shutter speeds like 1/50, 1/40 or even 1/30 for drone shots. The reason being, stutter (not to be confused with judder which caused by incompatible frame/refresh rates) gets the more eliminated, the more the shutter speed approaches the frame rate. I.e. with 1/30 sec at 30 fps, there is no stutter at all because there is no gap between each frame. At 1/60 sec at 30 fps, you "exclude" half of the motion between each frame, and the faster the shutter speed gets, the more it get'a a stop motion movie. I hope you understand what I mean. Depending on the speed of the movement in the shot, it might get very blurry, BUT in drone shots - for my taste at least - that can get very advantageous in most scenarios. Some examples: - Fast flight forward close to the ground (or foreground objects) towards a subject: the ground and the foreground objects you fly by get very blurry and convey a strong feeling of speed therefore, while the subject (that needs to be close to the center of the frame) stays sharp because it does not or only barely move within your frame. - Orbit around a subject: again, the subject stays very sharp even with the slow whutter speed because it does not move within the frame (it stays centered), while the background gets veeeery blurry due to the movement of the background. This gets even more pronounced at longer focal distances, like with the second camera on the Air 3. I love this because you get a great sharpness contrast between subject (sharp) and moving background (blurry mess). You can think of more examples surely. Important is only that the subject itself does not move too much from frame to frame in order to not get blurred by the slow shutter speed. So far (with the Mini 3 Pro), I have given more priority to a good exposure (as bright as possible without overexposing relevant parts - I explain this in my other two tutorial videos). So my shutter speed was varying between 1/30 and 1/100 because exposure is always varying depending on which direction you shoot (as you mentioned) AND the Mini 3 Pro only delivers good quality footage if you expose well. With the Air 3, I have too little experience. Maybe it's different to underexpose a little more without getting too much of a noise penalty. But as much as possible, I tried to stay in the 1/30-1/50 department whenever possible because I like the smoother, blurrier look. Just for recap, judder is incompatibility between frame rate of the video and refresh rate of the screen (i.e. 24 fps and 60 Hz screen is not compatible). Stutter is something that might look very similar, but is caused when the motion "gap" between each frame gets too big because of a faster shutter speed when there's noticeable movement in the frame. E.g. at 30 fps with 1/30 there is no gap, with 1/60 you miss half the motion, with 1/120 you miss 75% of the motion and so on. I really hope that helps. If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask. It might take me some time usually, but I will get back to you. And thank you very much for your motivating words. I'd love to do more content and have some ideas already, but right now I have really busy times. Just woke up too early today so I had some time to give you this extended answer ;) Thanks again, and I hope you can capture some stunning shots!

Thank you so much for these thorough replies Tom! It's really helpful, from my experience 60fps with 1/60 works fine for most shots if there is a defined subject like circling or following shots, I will test out 30fps with 1/30, if that works out as well that mean one additional stop of adjustment. And you are right, with dlogm or dlog, expose to the right can really help boosting efficiency when shooting in contrasty scenes. But I found the zebras and histogram in DJI FLY a bit unreliable sometimes, looking forward for an exposing tutorial for drones haha😁 Really a shame that I can't send personal message here on KZfaq. Really would like to discuss some more topics with you. May I ask do you also run instagram or facebook or have DJI Forum account? @@t0mwhazzup

Sorry for late answer. I have not really looked that detailed into histogram and zebra reliability, but it's a good hint. I will definitely check in the future. Yeah, true. You can find me on Instagram @tom_whazzup but tbh I'm not much of a social media guy so far, I guess I respond to youtube comments more often than I open up my Instagram ;)@@Erikaeee

@@t0mwhazzup thanks for the replies Tom! I've sent you a message on instagram sometimes ago and I figure you didn't check it haha, hope to hear from you soon!

Thanks for your feedback! I appreciate it. Your case sounds very interesting. As explained, usually the judder comes from the wrong framerate / display refresh rate combination, but there might be other factors as well. If you could post a link to one of the juddering videos that drive you crazy, I can have a look.

@@t0mwhazzup Well, I did say don’t look, but here it is: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y6qUlpWcq7vJmo0.html. The footage around the water tower is all 30fps with the remaining shots at 24fps on a 24fps timeline. I almost didn’t post this because the judder was so bad.

@@desertexplorations Hmm I think there are several things going on here. I might be wrong, but it looks like as if you do not use ND filters and therefore have a shutter speed way too high. This becomes especially noticeable on shots like the orbit around the water tower at 2:13 in your video. The second problem seems to be the project framerate of 24 fps (which causes 3:2 pulldown on most computer/smartphone displays with 60 Hz). The third thing that comes to my mind is that some of your drone movements are rather abrupt. Try to move the drone and the gimbal a little bit more even and smooth, that also helps a lot. So if I may give you suggestions for your next drone video... 1.) Recording the video: Set 30 fps frame rate on your drone and when filming, use manual exposure settings and put an ND filter on the camera in order to get the shutter speed somewhere around 1/40-1/100 of a second (1/50 or 1/60 would be optimal). If you don't have any NDs, they are not very expensive and help a lot, I'd try to get a set of filters that cover ND8-128, like this one: a.co/d/8G9bJB0 On sunny days, you will most probably need ND64 or ND128 to get the shutter speed to said range. And try to make your drone and gimbal movements a little bit smoother. That has nothing to do with judder directly, but smoother movements help a lot overall for drone footage. 2.) When you import your footage into a project, make it a 30 fps timeline. So the recorded footage fits perfectly to the timeline. 3.) Export your video in 30 fps. Try that and let me know if that helped! PS: In general, I'd try not to mix frame rates. Was there any special intention for you filming some clips in 24 fps and some in 30 fps? If not, stick with either and don't mix. My clear recommendation for KZfaq or general computer/smartphone use is 30 fps because it fits smoothly into 60 Hz screens. If you'd produce content for cinema, and only then, I'd go with 24 fps. If you need anything else, just let me know!

​@@t0mwhazzup I genuinely appreciate your comments and the time to write them. I am using an ND filter, but not a strong enough one. I do have a set of Skyreat filters but had a bad experience with a full sun video I shot with the ND64, it looked too dark, just wrong. Lately, I've been using the ND8 and letting the auto-exposure settings do their thing. It's a problem in mixed lighting conditions but otherwise seems to save me from worse errors. I am going to follow a recommendation to program the C2 button on the back to AEB exposure lock, which may help some. Also, I intend to brave the manual settings again and keep after it until things look better. I've been studying this stuff and the theory and practice are still a bit of disconnect for me right now. The mixed frame rates had more to do with using a few Quickshots which are only in 30 fps, whereas the rest was in 24fps. The answer there is either don't use the Quickshot or simply use 30 fps on everything. The abrupt drone movements are a work in progress, I'm an older guy with hand tremors, some days are better than others, and that Westwing day was a challenge. I first started playing with cameras and video a year ago and it's been an exasperating but rewarding experience. Again, thanks for your insights.

@@desertexplorations You're genuinely welcome! I would really suggest to use manual exposure, otherwise it's really hard to get good results. Usually, with ND64 on the Mini 3 Pro you should get around 1/40-1/100 sec exposure time in sunny conditions, so I assume that you just didn't adjust the exposure time accordingly. Or if you used auto-exposure, maybe the ND messed with the auto function. If you have the time and the nerve, I'd recommend giving manual exposure and ND filters another try, and the way to apply the right ND is trial-and-error: use the one that gives you an exposure time of around 1/60 sec. With experience, you will be able to reckon which ND density it is going to be... my experience tells me N64 in sunlight, ND16-32 in overcast conditions, but that's just a rule of thumb. And regarding the frame rate, if Quickshots is only available in 30 fps, that would be one more reason for sticking to 30 fps consistently (apart from the ones I mention in the video). 24 fps does only make sense if you are producing content for cinema (which most people don't). You will get less judder with 30 fps (everything else being equal). And regarding the drone movements... you can help yourself if you set the yaw and the gimbal rates lower and the smoothness very high. That could help you a lot. It's somewhere in the settings, unfortunately I don't have the drone with me right now to look it up for you.

I prefer 30 fps all the way for the reasons mentioned in the video 🙂

Without knowing more details, it's only guessing. My first guess would be, you don't use ND filters and therefore have a fast shutter speed that produces stutter. That's similar to judder, but a completely different problem. The other thing that comes to my mind is that maybe you use a memory card that's too slow. Or, when the stutter just happens in your video editor, that your computer might be to slow for editing the video footage.

I'd say that neither mov/mp4 nor how you transfer your videos to your computer can have an influence on judder. Changing from Cine to Normal mode might have an visual impact because of the faster movements in Normal mode, mostly quick pans (which are not cinematic anyways) and especially if you don't use ND filters to keep the shutter speed slow. But that is technically not judder, but stutter and caused by different reasons.

@@t0mwhazzup Drone shop also agree that judder has come from removing smart card and putting in my card reader connected to my new mac mini.

Sorry, I somehow missed your answer. Unfortunately, no. Regarding ND filters, 24/25 or 30 fps does not make a difference. Smooth shots need a screen-compatible framerate (30 fps for computer/smartphone displays) and a shutter speed that sicks close to the 180 degree rule (so, around 1/50 to 1/60 sec for 24/25/30 fps). Hope that helps!

Hmmm never experienced that myself. Is it only with 29.97? Could be a sd card issue, or the computer is slow maybe? Theoretically, 29.97 should have one small hickup every around 30 seconds. But never noticed that

@@t0mwhazzup Thanks for your reply. Yes I've only tested 29.97. I have some testing to do based on some advice and other things I concluded that I want to rule out. Two fast SD cards are giving me the same result with the same settings. I actually am also seeing slight stuttering in my videos when the movement is close and or fast (in addition to the hiccups on some clips), and like you note, a lot of youtubers (and instagram) have the same issue. I'm having trouble even finding footage that doesn't do this if it's close/fast enough. 90% of drone videos with a lot of engagement and quality do this. Between these two effects, it could be wind, or the computer, or settings. I've been told to try a slower shutter speed so it's not exactly 1:2. Been told to check props. Do lens correction in post. but as before you and I both are finding that this (slight stuttering) is VERY common and not really noticed by the casual viewer. Your eyes are meant to see those faster moving pieces of the background and foreground almost in our peripherals while the subject of the shot will still always be smooth with decent settings and low or no wind. Some of the best videos I've ever seen have this issue throughout them. but I'm trying to fix it anyway because even subconsciously it will look better. kind of like how you don't usually notice the bassline in a song until the bassist track is disabled.

@@dylancleveland Do you have some demo clips with those hickups for me to watch? When it comes to shutter speed... I always choose the shutter speed to give me the brightest possible exposure (just short pf clipping), but whenever possible, with drone footage, I also prefer slower shutter speed. The common 180 degree shutter rule technically produces stutter because it leaves out half of the motion (I think you understand without further explanation). But that’s the perfect amount of motion blur for most types of footage. For drone footage, I found it beneficial for many scenarios to use a slower shutter (up to 360 degree shutter, i.e. 1/30 sec at 30 fps). This will be a blurry mess somehow, but no stutter AND only beneficial when your subject does not move much in the frame (e.g. flying close to the ground towards your subject, orbiting around a subject). This gives great sharpness contrast between the subject and the surroundings which are blurry. But all in all we have two distinct topics here. The motion gaps (I call it stutter) that faster shutter speeds produces is something different than the uneven frame cadence of incompatible video frame rate (fps) and screen refresh rate (Hz). But one can be mistaken for the other. Frame rate is especially controversial. I found myself to get the best results with 30 fps because it avoids the judder (because it fits evenly into 60 Hz) and is so close to 24 fps that there's not really much difference in viewing impression. Except that 24 fps judders and 30 fps does not. But in cinema and on most TVs, 24 fps runs smooth. And smooth 30 fps - at least to me - is more similar to smooth 24 fps (in cinema/on TV) than juddery 24 fps (on 60 Hz screens) is. With the advent of high refresh rate screens like 120 Hz and above, the difference becomes negligible and everything runs more or less smooth. But as it is now, 60 Hz is still the standard and used by the majority of screens and therefore I stick with 30 fps. I don't say that it's the best or ideal, but all in all it runs smoothest, especially with drone footage. With "normal" footage the judder of 24 fps stays invisible most of the time, so nobody cares :)

Interesting! I'm wondering why you would put your 30 fps footage on a 24 fps timeline. Why not 30 fps timeline? Dropping 30p footage at 80 % speed on the 24 fps timeline will be smooth in itself, that's right, but the 24 fps timeline will still be juddering on a normal computer display (except for special ones like 120 Hz displays).

@@t0mwhazzup thx for the reply. I have mixed fps footage from my bmpcc 4k, dji osmo and I use 24fps for those. I don't get the judder on my 60hz macbook when I slow the 30fps mini footage 80% for the 24fps timeline.

Perfect if it works for you ☺️

No worries! :) In general, I always use a 30 p timeline, no matter whether FPV content (which I usually record in 60 p) or not, as my goal is to do kind of cinematic videos. It looks more filmic than if you had a 60 fps timeline. The other advantage, as you mention, is that you can make slow motion parts (down to 50 % speed). So, my approach would be to use a 30 p timeline and simply put the 60 p footage on at 100 % speed (which skips every other frame from the original footage) and when you want to do slow mo, use 50 % speed (which uses every frame of the original footage then). When it comes to shutter speed, I try to use 1/60 of a second whenever possible. Most people would recommend 1/120 sec as this is double the frame rate (180 degree shutter rule ... 60 fps x 2), BUT if you generally use a 30 fps timeline, you'd end up with a 90 degree shutter (30 fps x 4) on the 30 p timeline which can have too little motion blur to my taste. So, 1/60 sec I'd consider ideal for a 30 p timeline (regardless of fps of the original footage), and if that's not possible, try to keep it in the range in between 1/60 and 1/100. When you combine indoor with outdoor, in NL you'd need 1/100 sec shutter speed. BUT as nowadays many artificial lights are LED that might have a way higher frequency, you might also get away with a different shutter speed. Simply try it out in the scenario you want to film in. I hope that was not too complicated to understand why I'd rather use 1/60 sec instead of the generally recommended 1/120 sec. And with flickering lights, 1/100 sec is your safest bet, but simply try what works - with LED it might be different.

Oh and sorry if I say 30/60 fps and 30/60 p. p and fps is the same, just a different term for the framerate.

Oh sorry, I missed your answer. Independent of where you film, in order to get a smooth result for online content (computer/smartphone use), your best bet is to use a 30 fps timeline with 30 fps footage (not 25 fps). The problem that might arise indoors with artificial light when recording in 30 fps in Europe is flickering, but if you keep your shutter speed to 1/50 or 1/100, this will be eliminated. But keep in mind that nowadays with many LED lights (that often have a much higher frequency), you might not have a problem at all as long as you keep your shutter speed not too fast (let's say slower than 1/100 sec). Best practice is to make a short test clip in each environment and check for flickering.

Just saw message. thanks , did yesterday. found 100 is worki ng. @@t0mwhazzup

Hi Rossanna! Not sure I understand. Why is it impossible to film everything in 30 fps? Or why do you have to keep your 24 fps sequence? In general, before starting a project, you should consider the target medium that your video will be watched on. If you produce for cinema, you choose 24 fps, if you produce for broadcast in PAL countries 25 fps, and for broadcast in NTSC countries (mostly America) 29.97/30 fps and for KZfaq/Social Media&Co. 29.97/30 fps as well. Following this decision, you should ideally keep that frame rate from beginning to end, ie filming in the same frame rate as the timeline and the export. If you already have filmed your footage and it's 24 fps, then, by all means, keep 24 fps all the way through. Playback will not be judderfree on the majority of monitors (because most of them operate at 60 Hz), but it wouldn't if you forced your 24 fps footage onto a 30 fps timeline either because it would still produce judder. All in all, in most types of footage, judder is not very noticeable. It becomes obvious with even camera movements like pans, tilts etc. - that's why drone footage with its smooth camera movements is very prone to judder if the frame rate does not fit the target medium. Hope that helps :)

@t0mwhazzup thanks a lot for your super fast answer :) well the thing is that I have lots of footage in 24 fps (drone and camera) and also drone footage in 30 fps so I don't really know what to do anymore 😅 as for deciding what frame rate from the start, I never know what project I'm gonna be doing and I film as I travel and since I very frequently end up using old footage in my videos, I always end up with a mixed sequence😅 but mostly use it for youtube/social media although would like to be projecting my documentaries in festival one day.. anyway, it's a mess haha

@@TheGipsyJourney Yeah, I get it :) I think you just have to decide from this day whether you'd like to continue with 24 fps with the perspective of cinema airing one day, or switch to 30 fps for your KZfaq presence. Either way, you can use both - most probably you wouldn't notice judder in your normal camera clips too much (because of the random movements that cover the judder mostly), only in your drone shots because of the smooth and even movement. Did you come to my video because you noticed the problem or did you just stumble upon it without any need of a solution? Because... if you're happy with how you have done it so far, no need to change anything. I'm just presenting the technical correct solution that gives smooth footage because I personally am always a little bit disappointed when I see great drone films that judder because of that incompatibility of 24/25 fps video on standard 60 Hz computer/smartphone monitors. And one tip, no matter how you decide: at least the footage without audio (drone footage!) you can just change the speed to fit the timeline. This will be 25 % faster (i.e. 125 % for 24 fps footage on 30 fps timeline) or 20 % slower (i.e. 80 % for 30 fps footage on 24 fps timeline), but from my experience, in drone footage this speed change goes almost unnoticed and you can get rid of the frame rate chaos in your timeline.

Thank you :)

@@t0mwhazzup wc 😊

Well, if your camera footage is 24 fps and your project is 24 fps, it makes no sense to record your drone footage in 30 fps. Then you'd even double up the frame rate incompatibilities, since your 30 fps drone footage is incompatible to your 24 fps timeline (so 6 frames per second will be omitted), and your 24 fps timeline will be incompatible to your computer screen (which is probably 60 Hz). I'd do the drone footage in 24 fps then, so that at least everything in the project is the same. But since 24 fps is technically incorrect for for 60 Hz screens (i.e. most computer and smartphones), you'll have to live with the judder (which is not visible in every scene of course, but with drone footage it often is) because an exported 24 fps video can not play back smooth on a 60 Hz screen. No workaround for that. You could only reconsider changing your frame rate to 30 fps in the future for all your cameras and your project (if it's for online/digital/social media), then everything is technically correct and judder will be gone. At our video production company we do it the same: frame rate is always dependent on the purpose of the project. Online stuff will be 30 fps, broadcast stuff 25 fps (here in Europe; would be 30 fps for America). And if we hypothetically produced cinema movies, we would do 24 fps. But that has not happened so far, haha :)

@@t0mwhazzup Thank you so much! I found a workaround by slowing down the footage and it seems to work for some footage and for some it doesn't quite do the trick. But yes, definitely will apply your advice next time. We're in Australia so we're basically the same.

The only thing that comes to my mind right now is that this one clip was maybe filmed with a noticeably faster shutter speed than the other ones. This could produce stutter (which is something different than judder but can be mistaken). Is this possible?

Sure, 60 fps should be judder-free, it's just more real-life feel and less cinematic or filmic :)

Thank you! The service center responsible for my country (Austria) is in Germany (Bavaria). It always took around 7-10 days 😊

@@t0mwhazzup Mine wil go to the Netherland, little strange because we have closer to the Germany from Poland 😃

@@notonlyfromdrone Really strange 🤷🏻‍♂️ But I hope it doesn't take too long ☺️

Thank you 🤗 Sure, when you already have 24 fps footage with audio, you have to make a 24 fps timeline. But in general, I don't see why I would record any kind of footage in 24 fps anyways. I don't deliver material to cinemas, where 24 fps would make sense. I only do stuff for KZfaq (30 fps), other online content (30 fps) or broadcasting content (25 fps here in Europe, 30 fps in the US).

True, uneven speed changes do cause judder as well. Is it really judder? It might be that your shutter speed is too fast. Do you use ND filters?

@@t0mwhazzup yes i do use nd filtes but even if i dont use them the center of the frame look ok but the edges sometimes jidder simetimes not. Id rather be sure the effect is gone then focus on achieving proper motion blur

@@SmasherFPV23 Just to confirm, you film in 30 fps, your timeline has 30 fps and you export your final video in 30 fps? Then.. what shutter speed do you have in those unsmooth clips?

@@t0mwhazzup Tom I dont see any fps timeline option on power director (mobile full premium). I found this tool to be comfortable for my needs. I use android device as a video editing hardware. I usually colorgrade in adobe lightroom and just edit in power director. Are there any better (proffessional) editors on mobile devices (with options as timeline fps)? Thank You

OK So I found the fps and bitrate option in PowerDirector for Android. It's on the pop up box when You click "Produce" button in "settings" but I record in 30fps and 30fps is default in this menu. I don't know what else. I also clean ram before producing to have the best performance. But the video is still choppy on the sides

I hope it helps. The problem is existent with every kind of footage 24/25p on 60 Hz screens, but usually becomes obvious mostly in drone footage because of the nature of the drone camera movement. 30 fps in combination with a good shutter speed works perfectly normally. Let me know how it worked for you.

​@@t0mwhazzup I tried putting the 24 fps on a 30 fps timeline and my particular issue was not solved. Here is a link to a 23.976 fps clip. It was re-rendered with the text, but the clip straight from the drone has the exact issue. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/apypjMuAsdayonk.html The effect is a strobing in the foreground highlights. Only happens on certain screens like my older 1080p monitor (full screen) and my TV, not my iPhone. I'm wondering if anyone can see it, knows what it is, or how to fix it.

@@dgaerialimagery I can't see any strobing in the foreground, so I can't really say anything about that. Apart from that, I noticed two things: A see a slight judder in the foreground (but really very slight and not very distracting). That is caused by the video framerate of 24fps. You say it's 30 fps, but when I right click on the video and choose "Stats for nerds", it says 24 fps. Maybe you exported at 24 fps by mistake, but it's still 24 fps. Secondly, the leaves of the tree give some kind of flickering impression. I would guess that you did not use ND filters and have a rather fast shutter speed there. You should aim to have around 1/50 or 1/60 sec shutter speed to avoid that. I hope that helps! But strobing I cannot see.

@@t0mwhazzup thanks for the reply, that clip was 24 fps, i meant to say I also tried it at 125% speed on a 30 fps timeline and didn’t solve that leaves flickering issue. I have no idea what that flickering-leaves issue is. Thought it might be judder. I’ve noticed it on multiple clips and it gets much worse when I apply sharpening to those sections of the image. Pretty sure I had ND on, I’m religious about that 180 degree shutter but it is possible I didn’t for this clip, it’s difficult to be sure. If you look at the cars there is sufficient motion blur so I think I had that covered.

@@dgaerialimagery No, I see a little judder but that is definitely not what you meant. I wouldn't apply sharpening to video, it usually doesn't look good and especially with foliage or other detailed stuff it can look very weird 😉

Sure, you create a 30 fps timeline in your editor, and when you put your 25 fps footage onto it, change the clip speed to 120% so that it plays back with 30 fps. That should do. What monitor do you use?

@@t0mwhazzup but the movement of the people and the sound also changes and they will be clunky like a benny hill show. I hava a 165 Hz monitor

@@leventeszabo3091 Drone footage usually does not have audio, does yours? If there are people in your drone footage, they will of course move 20 % faster - then you have to decide what's more annoying: the judder or the people moving a little bit faster. 165Hz is a very odd number and it is neither dividable by 24, 25, or 30. Maybe that's why it still judders... check your results on a standard monitor with 60 Hz, that's what 90% of monitors are.

I am talking about handheld footages right now@@t0mwhazzup

Oke tell me one thing. They say the movies are shot in 24 fps or 25. So, why cannot I see any juddering shit in movies? During any paning movement only my camera and drones does this non sense but the Hollywood 24 FPS movies do not... What the hell? @@t0mwhazzup