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That's it! I'm replacing all my carabineers with padlocks.

Loved this style of video! Sometimes, it feels like we lose your personality and "air of expertise" when things get edited for brevity and to cover as much info/data as possible... this was concise AND had that Ryan Factor™ P.S glad it was just a little welt on your arm and not something worse

I was very happy to see you mentioning quickdraw orientation at 5:50. I have seen draws facing the wrong way unclipped themselves many times.

Just ran across this channel. Very Interesting. I climbed a lot in the 70's and 80's. Big Wall, Alpine, and vertical ice. In the intervening years I spent a lot of time working with heavy rigging. When using any fiber rope or sling (steel, nylon, hemp, sisal, whatever) one of the major factors in strength is fiber bend radius. A carabiner when used with typical climbing ropes and slings has a suitable bend radius to allow the rope or sling to achieve the rated strength. Most fibers lose strength with age (no matter the material), which exacerbates the problem. I think the issue with the sling breaking on the wire gate is due to the reduced bend radius. The gate deformed and the bend was over one wire (greatly reduced radius from the carabiner itself). This is also why knots cause a problem. The bend radius within a knot under load is less than a rope over a carabiner. Some knots are worse than others. In your video where you were pull testing a triple anchor with a sling that contained a figure eight knot, you asserted that the multiple legs counteracted (cancelled out) the "50%" strength loss. As I remember in a multi anchor situation, we set it up so the sling always equalized (no knots). The "redundancy" was the shared load amongst the multiple anchors. I would like to see the knot on multiple legs theory tested, as I do not believe it is so cut-and-dried as 2 legs times 50% is equal to 100% of 1 leg. I really like that your testing methods/conditions as they are attempting to get as close to real world conditions as possible. I am afraid that a lot of strength testing is too laboratory perfect. In other words those wire gate carabiners were never tested with the sling cinched around the gate itself. In a long lead, particularly with direction changes and changes in tension, maybe even a fall, the carabiners move or bounce around. It is pretty easy to imagine the sling getting caught on the gate (particularly the narrow sling you were testing). I have never used wire gate carabiners, but I have always been skeptical of them. I think I prefer the extra weight. Keep up the good work !

2:46 Bro-ham-sef, if you already think eye prop is warranted, just go for the additional face shield too. It really sucks to put on eye pro and then still get smacked in the mouth and chipping a tooth...

I cant help but see Ryan as Tony Hinchcliffe from KillTony and it makes these entertaining videos even more entertaining. Great videos guys!

Watching both the dogbone and hanger snag on notch contributing to the probability of this failure mode, my first thought was "and this is why I use notchless carabiners." My sport draws are keylocks (Spirits) and my alpines are shielded notches (Hoodwires)... things can still go wrong, but some risk mitigation is better than no mitigation.

Good stuff. I'm glad you just got a superficial welt and that you're wearing eye pro for drop tests now!

It would be interesting to see some tests of crashpads to see if or when you should stack crashpads to make safer landings for highballs

Awesome! Also a related topic to dig: quickdraws with opposite gates vs same-side gates... ;-) Thanks!!

Woah! I never even thought of that happening.

Awesome vid! I’ve had a draw come out from placing the gate in the wrong direction. scary stuff to notice at the next clip

Long time subscriber to the AAC “Accidents in North America” fascinating faces of death reading of “How Not To” before the internet and this channel… It’s about time the two of you met…

I'm terrified of all of this stuff, Im a guitar player but for some reason Im addicted to your videos

I love your sense of humor.

Love this channel, it has always made me feel better about my system and gear when climbing. This video, though, made me more afraid 😬😅

Knowing that watching more and more of these videos could be a lifesaver one day...

Ive had a petzl ange biner come unclipped¹ from the bolt hanger. Things got exciting.

While I'll never be in anything remotely like good enough shape for climbing, I'm still fascinated by your testing. I have a bunch of the tiny S-carabiners, mostly from Nite-Ize, which I use for things like keys and USB sticks. Not remotely as strong as the ones you work with, but very handy things nonetheless. Watching these tests, I feel like I have a better understanding of what happens to climbers.

0:10 would note this is why I prefer mixed draws but the solid gate should be bolt side and with the loose part of the dogbone while the wire is rope side and affixed into place. Loose dogbone will make turning the carabiner less likely as you travel, minimizing the unclipping risk, and the tight side with a keeper makes clipping easier as well as helps with orientation. As to clipping direction, should just become habit to set a draw against the direction of travel, but the likelihood is vanishingly minimal that I would never unclip and reclip the draw.

Great vid!

Always informative vids, remember out there,the same could happen when trad climbing and extending a wire. As the vid says, spine of the draw towards direction of travel. Simples.

The rotation unclip is not just theory. Have had a friend on lead unclip her draw like that at third bolt right after crux, I was mortified because she was clearly at ground fall factor but going back was not feasible so I just shut my trap and watched with hope and terror while she was clipping her next piece. So it's a real thing, pay attention to how you clip and what happens with your rope.

I use a homemade pulley and caribener system system in my home gym, for things like tricep press downs and overhead tricep extensions. I have had the type of break happen there. Things get shifted as the wire is repeatedly put under tension, then released. I have had two breaks like this. Not life threatening, but def a shock to have 80lbs drop off all at once 😅

Awesome videos!!! Been getting into climbing. My partner uses slings as personal anchors when doing set ups for top ropes or abseils. I personally think they leave way too much slack and will get very hurt if they do fall. I’ve brought a rock empire PIP Adjustable Lanyard for them. Was wondering the difference in forces between that and a sling in a factor 1 fall. Is it worth having if they don’t keep it tight vs having a sling? Or is it’s utility is being able to quickly have a small line so you aren’t falling very far?

I have been climbing for over 20 years,😊 and I've spent more than 1000 days climbing. In that time I have had a draw unclip on me on 2 occasions: once due to a back clip, and I believe the other was the unclip you demonstrated. A friend broke a biner over a corner, and I do not trust badly located bolts as a result

Noooo, I'm not scared to climb now....... I'm just going to switch all my carabiners over to steel quick links. Not really worried about the extra weight but I'm need to remind the people I climb with to bring adjustable spanners with them to undo those quick links 😁😂 Seriously, it's always good to remind people about the reasons for installing pro in the correct orientation. Happy Christmas, Ryan and team. Hope you have a great one 👍

The dogbone catching on the gate like that seems like a relatively easy fix for manufacturers, just a few strategic bumps on the carabiner body would let the dogbone slide on/off the gate even under load.

This is why I love captive eye carabiners.

I bet you could anchor a bit of plywood at the top of the drop tree with no real damage to the tree and make it removeable but at least you would have some more shrapnel protection than just the tree.

This seems like an easy problem to solve. Surprised no manufacturer has addressed it.

That's why you should make sure your gates face away from your direction of travel (unless you're moving straight up, obviously)

I thought that in general we clip the rope to the wire gate and not the solid gate? It seems like the biners in your first example were backwards. Happy for someone to correct me.

Have heard of Petzl Ange biners having a similar failure because the single wire gate creates more of a shoulder to snag the dogbone

Super interesting. Maybe use solid gate on the bolt and wire gate for rope side?

Excellent testing. More excellent trolling with the sample size comment. *Pointer: In a mixed draw, the wire gate is rope side anyway so this should be even more rare.

Thinking of a dual gate carabiner, each end with it's own gate, which would be difficult to cross load even deliberately without putting both connections in the same gate.

3:28 the opening was 1/2 on the dogbone as a result the part sticking up ripped a hole in the middle then the part at the right (in the video) ripped, then it slid down and the other half ripped completely disconnecting.

would you suggest quickdraw with the title rubber booties then? As it's harder for the dorbone to creep up the carabiner...

Oh geez. Definitely more gear fear now after seeing that caribiner unclip from a hanger. I thought the directional quickdraw placement was an old-timer myth, forever lost in the sands of time, until now. It's reared it's zombie head! Do we need to worry about the direction of the quickdraw or not?!? What's AMGA say?

I recently got into big game hunting and there is a lot of climbing equipment involved. Any thoughts on the safety reputation of these companies?

If you ship only 6 days a week, and also ship on the day that I order, who's doing the shipping on the 7th day? or am I blocked from ordering 1 day a week? or everyone is unknowingly synchronized to only order 6 days of the week, and you get 1 for resting? how are you controlling us? The answer to those, and many more questions, on the next episode of HowNot2

Did you test other brands? I ask because you mentioned seeing if it was a problem with a specific design but all I saw was Black Diamond. The nose is honestly the biggest difference between the CAMP, BD, and Metolius small wiregates so I'm not sure it would surprise me if some brands are worse than others in this particular failure mode. (Honestly not that I would change my buying decisions even if it were. This is too low a risk factor)

Hm.. I would assume this could be a potential failure mode of the carabineer. I would love if this issue could be followed by some more tests on how hard it is to replicate this with a rope or even change in design to mitigate it.

Would love to see how Camp Dyons perform in these situations, the aluminum is so thin on the nose...

'Spine to Line' for quick draw orientation when clipping.

So a mitigating addition - "duck tape"... ??

What happened to the big drop tower?

Love how the conclusions for most of these is simply “Oh no, they broke less than they’re rated in this weird situation. Still rated higher than what you probably need, but scary.”

So why is it that the dogbone is only snugg on one end. Wouldn't it be better to have it snugg in both ends? Thanks in advance.

I'm not a climber, and just use climbing gear for tool retention overhead and I still son't trust wire gate carabiners for anything.

4:06 What's the force?

I need that shirt! Super Good enough

0:33 Thanks, another reason NOT to use wire gate carabiner quickdraws. 0:49 oh look, that's one more reason!

I'm not a climber but thought climbers used dual locking carabiners?

Def gave me more gear fear 😅

This video is kinda terrifying.

Align the spine. Rhymes save lives.

And that is exactly the reason why I use anti-slip rubber on both carabiners and not only on the lower one.

Why don’t the manufacturers just put the same object in both ends that holds the biner in place?

climbings dangerous...be strong...have fun

If understanding how accidents occur makes you afraid, then you probably shouldn't be climbing. It is better to know so you can avoid than to be ignorant and increase your likelihood of error.

Now we know what your molars look like. Thanks thumbnail.

simple if it looks like that you fall or something like that

I am the 0.01%

Say it with me: CLIMB THE SPINE! And for the rope end of the biner: CLICK AND FLIP!

🅾🅱🅻🅸🅶🅰🆃🅾🆁🆈 🅰🅻🅶🅾🆁🅸🆃🅷🅼 🅱🅾🅾🆂🆃 👍👍

Never used a quick draw , never will

second 😢

First