The Beginner Hangboard Routine Even Pros Use

Рет қаралды 98,745

Күн бұрын

THE hangboard routine you should know!
👉In our latest KZfaq video we have coach @ollietorr here to show us a really simple hangboarding session that every rock climber should know.
It's so simple and effective because it is self-regulated based on your level and fatigue.
Meaning you can go easy or hard based on your schedule and climbing week.
can be used as your first ever hangboard session and even you one-thousandth session, it really does work for all abilities.
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Пікірлер: 72

@EKdlwoasred Жыл бұрын

I usually hang on a 2mm edge with 3x body weight on my pinky finger for half an hour as a warm up and just go from there

@noahblevins9569 Жыл бұрын

Oh, so you're still at the beginner level then? 🤪

Жыл бұрын

2 sets (Half Crimps) A.1 - 10s Intensity 3/10 (1min Rest) B.1 - 10s Intensity 5/10 (2min Rest) C.1 - 10s Intensity 6/10 (2min Rest) D.1 - 10s Intensity 8/10 (2min Rest) 1-3 sets - Pick another finger position E.1 - 20-30s e.g. Open Hand 3 Finger Drags RPE 4/10 (2min Rest) Frequency: 1-3x Week Notes: The Key element of this routine is to build up the intensity slowly to progressively increase the recruitment of muscle fibres. Adapt the weight to the feelings during the session and don't max out regularly.

@Keukeu45 Жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot

@juridicproenerg7436 7 ай бұрын

Thank youuuu :)

@dj_untz 6 ай бұрын

totally underrated comment

@Whueso Жыл бұрын

Really liked the RPE bit, encouraging us eager climbers to hold back if we're working too hard and something feels off or unnecessarily straining. Really important piece to keep in mind to avoid injury and stay sending. Thanks!

@flowrida1138 Жыл бұрын

So nicely done. Awesome teaching skills!! I usually have to fit hangboarding into my training since I've got kids at home and can't go out to climb more than 2 times/week, sometimes 3 times. But I still want that added stimulus of mild intestense finger training. That program seems perfect!

@Tychipter Жыл бұрын

Thanks for this - I've been following this for a few weeks after a number of months off hangboarding (Injury + 2nd child born in May is more important) and this has been great for rebuilding back strength. Even a couple of quick sessions a week has been enough for now. Very helpful to fit around other responsibilities :)

@calendrierobloc7854 Жыл бұрын

Thank you for sharing those underrated tips! I see way to many climbers getting injured because they either don't listen to their body or push to 100% everytime. ( Me included .. )

@MrKobohobo Жыл бұрын

Great content, thanks!

@campbellmike Жыл бұрын

In case this is a useful tip. When I'm close to my working set weight I do just 5 second hangs. Long enough to test out my RPE without the risk of blowing off the hold early if it's a weak day

@guustvanuden2968 Жыл бұрын

doing 3 sets half crimp with resistance band to help me 10 secs low intensity. i do one session a week with climbing but i go 2 hours hard trying everything and get really fatigued. i do 4 training days: 1. high intensity whole body excorsizes 2. running 5 km and fingerboard and 3.training or a other sport 4. bouldering i think im really overtraind even with this low volume per week. i get stings, tingling and numbness in my arms and hands in the morning. i always boulderd once a month but now i boulder every week for the last 6 months. did i go to fast to hard? i came out of 2 shoulder surgerys and im so happy i can do sports again. i have a history with RSI when i worked behind a desk. do you guys have an idea what it can be

@PolishSlayer893 Жыл бұрын

I do my finger training on a tension block with plates attached to a hub on the bottom. I don't do max hangs but I do repeaters(7s on 3s off x6, switch hands and repeat then rest 3-5minutes and do that for total of 3 sets. I then do the same thing but with a pinch block for 2-3 sets). My current progression system is something like this. Let's say I do 40lbs on all 3 sets of the tension block. Next session/week I'll try 45lbs on set 1, but go back to 40 for 2 and 3. Next week 45lbs for set 1 and 2, but 40 for set 3. next week 45lbs for all 3 sets and repeat. If I'm not feeling strong or fingers feel tired I may go down a weight or not progress that week and stay on the same weight. I climb 3x a week(Mon,Wed and Fri/Sat) and usually do this routine once a week at the end of my climbing session(usually 2hours of bouldering but on the session that I'm fingertraining I climb for 1h30 then do 20-25mins of this routine). Would this be a good routine as long as I'm adapting the weight to how I feel and not maxing out(shaking and dropping the weight or being at 9-10 rpe) and sticking to 7-8 rpe on all sets? Also I do half crimp on the tension block so I was also gonna add the open finger hangs that you mentioned at the end for a nice stretch and strengthening in that position

@driesvanoosten4417 Жыл бұрын

If you are climbing more than 3 times a week, when would you fit this in your schedule? On climbing days, or off days?

@birenpatel1838 Жыл бұрын

Just chucking this idea out there, but I leave a rest day on both sides of my hangboard day. On hangboard day I do some flash/onsighting climbing, it can be super crimpy fingery problems, but I let the flash grade temper the intensity. On four days a week I like to do M-W-F-S with hangboard + onsighting + campus boarding on 20mm all on Wednesday.

@afailable Жыл бұрын

@@birenpatel1838 I might try that schedule myself. Wednesdays are reset days in my gym so doing flash / fingerboard while everyone is on the new routes seems like a good way to do things

@arpadzsigmond2376 Жыл бұрын

it was actually usefull!

@verticalverses Жыл бұрын

Any chance this could be added to Finger Workouts on the Crimpd app?

@josebondia4828 Жыл бұрын

Do you do a passive or an active hang?? -thnks!

@stephendaedalus7841 Жыл бұрын

What timer are you using?

@dark-o Жыл бұрын

Is mixing max hangs and density hangs a good approach? Usually I have seen only one recommended within a training session or cycle as focus? How does this affect adaptations?

@Frodoswaggns Жыл бұрын

This is probably the best question when it comes to hangboarding currently. I would also like to know.

@krisztiankovacs7126 Жыл бұрын

Anyone know what app he's using here? I love Crimpd, but it doesn't have custom timers.

@TheReggaesauce Жыл бұрын

How am I supposed to focus on Olllie's sagely wisdom being laid down when he's wearing odd socks!!??!! 😂😂😂

@quarq111 Жыл бұрын

Love the focus on the warm-up and the listening to your feeling during each session part. I must say I'm very discouraged by max hangs after my first ever 8 week protocol of max hangs. I'm a palteauing V5-climber myself. After 8 weeks of 2 times max hangs a week, I have not improved a single bit in my finger strength 😞 I tried to do all the research beforehand, to watch as many educational videos here on your channel and elsewhere as possible, but my progress is zero 😪. Anyhow, I enjoyed doing those exercises nevertheless. It was worth the try and I'll surely try again one day given how this usually is supposed to be a highly effective training protocol. As a result, I'll now try a 8 weeks protocol of IntHangs and hope for the best. Still, thanks heaps for your amazing educational video Lattice. Your emphasis on safety and personal condition is very much appreciated.

@AronKoscho Жыл бұрын

Are you sure contact strength is holding you back? I once trained a girl who could hang from practically anything but couldn't do a single pull up. A six week strength cycle improved her climbing tremendously.

@quarq111 Жыл бұрын

@@AronKoscho Thanks for your insightful and curious answer Aron. My finger strength is very low I reckon (120% body weight for max hang for 5 secs on 20 mm two hands). My pull up strength sits at 140% 2 rep two hands. In my comment, I was more focusing on the part of where I can't see an improvement in finger strength despite a targeted training effort 😢 Same values before and after an 8 week max hang protocol. But with regards to your comment: I totally agree. I do believe, too, that finger strength is not my only limiting factor for my plateau.

@zacharylaschober Жыл бұрын

@@quarq111 likely the intensity was not great enough or you had greater finger stimulation through other aspects of your sessions. Hangboarding is a somewhat but not that unique stimulus, and easy to forget everything else in climbing is some manner of exercise (usually strength training) for the fingers. Any specifics about protocol and what surrounding sessions look like? Also, don’t be afraid of the hangboard not making progress. Neil Gresham would say you banked that all the same as long as sufficiently intense.

@quarq111 Жыл бұрын

@@zacharylaschober Thanks a lot for your encouraging answer Zachary. My training schedule was somewhat overwhelming time wise, which is why I will have to strip it down for the next 8 week training schedule commencing soon. I was training for front lever, weighted pull ups, max hangs, max pinches, and campus board (1-4-5, beginner progression). Max hangs and max pinches happened 2x a week, while front lever and campus only happened once per week. On top of that, I went bouldering/route climbing twice a week. Thus, I had 4 days a week of climbing related exercise. There's always more to be done, but these were the main focus for these 8 weeks, and even this turned out to be too ambitious time and overuse wise. For the next 8 weeks, I intend to focus solely on IntHangs and IntPinches while climbing/bouldering more often. While I did very much so record progress in front lever and weighted pull ups and campus board and max pinches, the max hangs were the only exercise I did not progress at. Let's see how the IntHangs will go over the following 8 weeks! Super keen! And thanks again @Zachary Laschober for the encouraging words.

@zacharylaschober Жыл бұрын

@@quarq111 not sure of your training history, but if this was a first mesocycle of max hangs assuming not tremendously deep? Far too much to try and develop. A couple of those are fine to maintain, say doing front levers or heavily weighted pullups on different days but reduce sets, but I strive to maintain anything contact and power related on the wall, especially boards, and have two complimentary focuses at a time such as max strength and strength capacity or contact and power or aerobic recovery and anaerobic buffering/capacity. Anyway, you probably have some down the road gain to finger strength as said. Glad you’re psyched but seriously quality of an aspect will outpace a smattering of all aspects every time, mostly because climbing is such an all around activity. You won’t lose anything if you try on the wall.

@syindrome Жыл бұрын

7:11 Hooper’s Beta wants a word!

@SnowmansApartment Жыл бұрын

is there a routine i can do for a few months to just injury proof your fingers?

@jimmcewen8994 Жыл бұрын

Can you please do a video for absolute beginners?? I've climbed but never used a fingerboard before! Imagine you're teaching someone who has never even seen one of these before!!!

@acasccseea4434 Жыл бұрын

why is there no tutorials for the slopers on the hang board?

@RamdarIV Жыл бұрын

When using a half crimp grip should you be allowing your top knuckle to "bow" a little bit or is it meant to be pretty much straight? I'm worried that when I half crimp I might be letting my fingers bend more than I should, and if that's happening and isn't meant to, is the right approach to just use a larger edge? Just want to make sure I understand what a good half crimp should feel like! Thanks!

@swordex1749 Жыл бұрын

it kinda depends on finger morphology. I think optimally all four top joints would be slightly bowed, but its not uncommon for your pinky or index finger to not be as bent.

@TheTonVeron Жыл бұрын

I've had similar concerns. For half crimp I try to keep the middle knuckle at 90 degrees for my first 3 fingers, my pinky will be more open (closer to 120 degrees). Open hand is anything more than 90, closer to straight. I didn't know when the half crimp became a full crimp, but a closed crimp was fairly obvious, the thumb come up to cover the top of the finger. I believe a full crimp would start when the MCP joint (base of the finger) starts to bend away from straight.

@Frodoswaggns Жыл бұрын

Carrie Cooper who is a PHD who specializes in rock climbing injury rehab says no bowing, keep the MCP joint flat when half crimping.

@RamdarIV Жыл бұрын

Super helpful feedback, thanks everyone!

@LeggyDogg Жыл бұрын

For someone who is likely to not be adding very much weight on a 20mm edge, how would you recommend to modulate the intensity of the warm up sets? It feels a little vague and difficult to be too precise if I'm trying to just reduce the amount of assistance I'm getting through my feet to increase the load by small increments.

@nickGTFX Жыл бұрын

Use a pulley to remove weight.

@retlom779 Жыл бұрын

@@nickGTFX i dont have space to put a pulley there is it okay to just pull on it without lifting you up when you start out. Im not really able to hold on to it for more than 3-4 seconds or should i just use the Jugs on top? i own a Linebraker Base that was gifted to me.

@zacharylaschober Жыл бұрын

I think the easiest manner is to alter the protocol to include more reps at shorter duration and maintain overall similar rest. If hanging say four times for ten seconds with two minutes of rest for initial warmups, try six times for seven seconds with a minute and a half rest or eight times for six with a minute rest.

@tinu96 10 ай бұрын

If you can't put a pulley in you can put a bathroom scale underneath you and load the hang so you're putting X% of bodyweight on the scale. The more you load the edge, the lower the scale will read. You can get some of the precision you're looking for by hitting the same weight on the scale with each rep.

@sloppyfroppy9292 Жыл бұрын

Any reason why Ollie isn't using Crimpd here? I hope Lattice isn't decoupling from Crimpd 😱

@Hikups Жыл бұрын

i think it's their premium app when you use a training plan with coaching

@flaviosancandi9466 Жыл бұрын

Is it better to increase load or to use a smaller edge? I guess it depends on the target, but as a rule of thumb?

@andrewscott5059 Жыл бұрын

Progressive overload is key, so if you only have a couple edges to work with you’ll have to increase the load. If you have a board like the transgression/progression board though, small edge progression can be highly valuable. They’re both good, and often it’s better to use both if you can. Small edge work and weighted hangs are strongly correlated but are not a replacement for each other. Weighted hangs will be more effective for overhanging climbing generally and small edge work is more effective for vert climbing

@bullydungeon9631 Жыл бұрын

Probably progress weight, then drop weight and progress edge, rinse and repeat? That makes the most sense to me

@andrewscott5059 Жыл бұрын

@@bullydungeon9631 There are tons of variables that you can progress, the most popular one when doing minimal edge work is actually time. So you work on a specific edge until you can do 15-20 seconds on it, then move down to the next edge, and repeat the same process. Weight is certainly another option, but the question then becomes how do you decide to move down an edge? your training will still be valuable as long as you keep adding weight so there is not a clear stopping point for a particular edge size. I think this is the reason why mixing minimal edges and adding weight is generally less popular than progressing on one variable or the other for a specific cycle.

@zacharylaschober Жыл бұрын

Depends on starting edge size and intended application, but almost always the weight should be increased. Hanging small edges (less than half pad size) often focuses on grip position, discomfort tolerance, and neuromuscular adaptations. Once the edge gets smaller, time for recruitment of muscle increases rather drastically and the influence of conditions becomes greater which reduces the ability to train. Can make progress with either, though, as can change of grip type or reduction in fingers and incut of edges.

@paulhoulden Жыл бұрын

oooooo so close! 100k by tomorrow

@Cr1ms0nSE 10 ай бұрын

Cool

@Animatedron Жыл бұрын

What app is that? Also, do the socks with crocs add to climbing performance? 😁

@guustvanuden2968 Жыл бұрын

probably their own app

@michaelgonzalez2862 Жыл бұрын

First comment!!!! Love your guys training tips!!! You guys are the reason I haven't injured myself and only been getting stronger!

@MegaBouchra Жыл бұрын

Question: can this be done on a climbing day? Or is it better to do on a 'rest' day?

@ryanbarron5696 Жыл бұрын

I’d love to know the answer to this as well. I’ve seen people saying they do it before their climbing sessions but that seems like it would hamper performance during the session and I have more time on rest days.

@soccutd77 Жыл бұрын

@@ryanbarron5696bit of a late answer, but if you’re worried about performance on climbing days and the hangboard workout is difficult to the point it’s hampering your climbing, skip the hangboard. For most people, a good hangboard session before climbing helps with recruitment and actually might improve climbing strength. If this isn’t the case for you, you might be at too much volume or at a place where you might not need hangboarding to provide an adequate stimulus.

@bigmutant69 Жыл бұрын

What does RPE mean?

@bencarter3623 Жыл бұрын

rate of perceived exertion

@josefarnold2873 Жыл бұрын

What means RPE?

@anthonyswindells5729 Жыл бұрын

Rate of Perceived Exertion - how hard it feels to you on a scale out of 10

@larathompson1981 Жыл бұрын

Looks like Ollie is using his thumbs in his half crimp. I try to avoid it because my thumbs are already plenty strong and I'm aiming to improve finger strength.

@tallgeese9715 Жыл бұрын

how many reps per set?

@xxavior2012 Жыл бұрын

Someone correct me if I’m wrong but I think in this context, individual hangs are referred to as sets. Personally I think it’s confusing nomenclature. When I think of a set, my brain thinks it’s a collection of hangs, but again I think it’s got a different meaning in hangboarding

@94jmh Жыл бұрын

🦍🔥🦍

@BoulderingAddict 6 ай бұрын

here i am climbing 8a hanging almost dubbel bodyweight lol

@arthurhaskind7779 8 ай бұрын

How does beginner hangboard routine includes weighted hangs? This is absurd.

@brenswen_ 6 ай бұрын

It’s based on your own perceived effort. For Ollie, 8/10 means he needs to use weight, for others, it means lifting feet off of the ground. Your comment’s absurd

@arthurhaskind7779 5 ай бұрын

@@brenswen_ Have you actually seen the video? The weighted Sets are recommended as a part of the training. If the focus was on perceived effort it should have been addressed and unweighted hang sets should have been discussed.