We need physical bank branches and to use cash.

@@ChipsNeeson There is a big difference between cash and currency. One is fiat and the other has been around for thousands of years. Our Constitution states that only gold and silver is to be used.

Illinois is where real electricians exist. Romex is for 2nd level electricians. If you call your self and electrician and have never bend EMT, you should question your title.

Hi, It seems that you have a great experience. I am a student eager to learn about construction work, I'm actively seeking someone in this field who can share their expertise with my student team. Really need insights from you, feel free to hit me up!

Skjønner ikke hvorfor de bruker stål rør til elektriske anlegget🙈 Det ble gjort i Norge for 60 - 70 år siden. De henger etter på så mye syns jeg, men det er bare min mening🤷🏻

I also have been following the Swedish framing/insulation model for years. On this particular wall, we would have added 1.5” of rigid insulation in between the nailing gerts. As you said, it is nice to see other builders starting to adopt a new method of building.

@@Jens92he literally says the client requested conduit and they usually use romex.

Depends on the funding for projects like this. Your average American can’t afford a home this standard. Not to mention over half the country doesn’t get cold enough to need this thermal efficiency. Pretty cool to build it, but when it comes down to 10 of thousands of dollars for a few efficiency points. Most people will pass.

I wonder what the cost ratio is for conduit compared to Romex.

@@chrisbabbitt4202 you have the cost of conduit on top of the cost of wire. Then the wire you pull into a conduit run is single wires on 500 ft. spools of THHN/TWN-2 a double rated wire for wet locations, anything in a conduit is considered a wet location, so it would be significant, and it's going to depend on where you by the EMT, and not all are the same grade, so if you are getting it cheaper from one outlet, it may be because it's inferior, and you will be able to tell when you start bending it; the cheaper stuff has a tendency to flatten a little on the bend. but everything is up on price right now, and if you have any 240v circuits you would want to make sure to get red along with the black, white and green you would pull for a single 120v circuit. then you have all the connectors and couplings and boxes, single gang and four square boxes and plaster rings. and there would probably be a few 411 boxes with blank plates for junction boxes and pull boxes. some people use four square for junction boxes, but you limit yourself on those. Because half of the knockouts are 1/2" EMT and half 3/4". 3/4" is just easier to make your pulls in, but in some commercial settings, 3/4" is a minimum, especially in hospitals, so there are a lot of equipment parts to think of on top of the wire if you go with EMT instead of Romex. Romex is fast and easy, but there are benefits to EMT. but the cost is going to be significant.

True that

Very much agreed!!!!!!!!

@@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736 don't you generally not need the green (ground) when running metal conduit as the conduit/metal boxes are the ground contact? i can see there may be some situations where it is required. most devices wired in would ground via the screw, but some may need manual wiring to a grounding screw in the box, but i think most wont. if you go to the 7:25 mark, you can even see they didn't run any green/bare grounding wire, just the black and white. for the most part, you should just be running the black and white unless you need a red, for something like a 240v circuit (what you mentioned) or maybe a 3 way switch or something. running conduit like this is definitely more expensive initially though, but i agree it is better for future proofing your house. you will easily and WAY more affordably be able to re-run wires when everything has changed in 10/15/20+ years or so.

95 percent of builders could care less! Only the 5% that care about building a great house that will last a 50-100 years and prevent mold and moisture will do it! If it’s not part of the bldg code! they’re not gonna do it ! Nobody else gives a rats patootie! With that said, I care, but I’m extremely well educated about this through KZfaq university!

I've seen this done in new construction up here in Canada; the bathroom basically has a 4 or 5 inch "exhaust" port tucked away in the corner of the wall and is drawing air 24/7. No need for exhaust fan switch at all.

@@wesbuckley5535 I am an Energy Star Builder in Wisconsin/Minnesota as well. I've been using the ERV/HRV as an exhaust for the Bath/Kitchen/Laundry since 2000. What I like about this type of system is that the penetrations to the outside are limited to the ERV/HRV, it's really quiet (No loud bath fans), and the use of timers for the kids that usually forget to turn the fan on.

The ERV should provide plenty of ventilation for bathrooms, no need for a dedicated bathroom exhaust fan. What I haven’t decided is if I need makeup air for the kitchen range hood. The ERV I am considering can handle some of the imbalance but only upto the max flow of the supply fan (the exhaust side effectively shuts off).

@@wesbuckley5535 The amount of moisture dumped into a bathroom by a long hot shower is not going to exhaust very quickly through the erv at its base ventilation rate…. there may be a code requirement for a boost switch

@@wesbuckley5535 I second C most places have code requirements for a boost switch. The thing I really like about using an erv or hrv for bathroom exhaust is you are not wasting all of the heat generated from the shower and range hood in the kitchen.

I totally agree. That's an episode to takes notes on and flag for reference. I can never remember what to use for what application.

I’ve been an electrician for 25 years and I love using conduit but, most homeowners are not going to go with the price difference from romex Ray.

@@greenridgepropertysolution3211 absolutely, an extreme few would see the value in it. In my personal home and workshop buildings I use a combination of conduit, mc cable and Romex depending on the application.

​@Ray Green thanks for your input!

Can you add new circuits as easily with conduit as compared to Romex?

@@DylanDraper1 no sir. That’s a downside to conduit.

They could always use stand offs like we do with furring strips on a block wall. Also I'm just confused as to why they would go above and beyond with running conduit in a house, then not pull an actual ground wire.

You dont need a ground with emt counduit. But looking at the video they shouldve. I can tell by the video that this isnt going to be inspected. And if it is. The electrical inspector is going to have a field day. 3ft from box and every 10’ I see neither for strapping

If you’re talking about the LED wafer lights I agree. And I never trust the conduit as my grounding conductor.

@@AntonioRamirez-xg5ce yeah no straps all in wall no way im doing that without strapping

@deke80 he is probably up near Chicago and conduit is code for all buildings. The use of flex and mc is very limited in that area.

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Good point, but it is a good practice to place a pinch of non-hardening duct seal around the conductors entering an unconditioned or exterior space in any sized conduit. Just open a box cover on a cold day and feel the breeze. Anyway, the wiring job is generally impressive!!

Are your allowed to spray some foam I’m the conduits that go from outside in or inside out. Or maybe caulk it? But definitely a flaw when trying to be this meticulous.

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You have that backwards. ERV=Energy Recovery Ventilator (temperature & humidity). HRV=Heat Recovery Ventilator (temperature only)

best tip I can offer if you want to find success in the trades is don't cut corners and deliver on any promises to clients...you will be very busy

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Also, since you are doing radiant in floor heating (which is awesome I plan to do the same). How do you plan to cool the home?

@@machickman4041 you can do radiant cooling in the space as well , also radiant can be installed in the walls and ceiling as well if desired. this method is not as common but is effective.

I had the exact same question.

It'll be essential. Makeup air is actually code now.

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Why?

Also, I'm interested in seeing the floorplan of this house if you can share.

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Agree

An ERV is actually venting the air going through it, you still get the same amount of ventilation, just size and tune the ERV to what you want to achieve. As far as radon goes, a tightly sealed up building isn't necessarily worse. In a huge portion of homes in the USA you have AC ducts going through an unconditioned attic and you're just about guaranteed to have some amount of leakage where ducts are connected. Every cubic foot of air that leaks out of the ducts has to be balanced by a cubic foot of air leaking in through the rest of the building. This makes AC systems with ducts outside of the conditioned space create a slight negative pressure when running which means any little crack that radon is seeping in through is now going to seep in just a little bit faster. On an ERV you can generally control exhaust and intake separately which lets you run the intake fan just a little bit harder than the exhaust fan giving you a slight positive pressure and reducing radon coming in through cracks. There are pros and cons to trying to maintain a neutral pressure vs. positive pressure so it's not like there's only one right answer. Back to the original question of just air tightness by itself increasing radon exposure there have been studies to see if that was the case. In some cases more air tightness increased radon concentration because you're not diluting it with fresh air as much but other cases the tighter houses had less radon infiltration because they reduced the radon coming in enough that it outweighed the reduced dilution of the radon that got in. A tight vs. leaky house doesn't necessarily mean one is strictly better than the other when it comes to radon, it's a balancing act of different factors. In the end, if you're in an area where radon could be a concern, you aren't going to be able to accurately predict the radon levels without actually testing for it. IMHO, a tighter house gives you a better starting point to actually address the problem and drive down radon concentration compared to an older leaky house.

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They are inside the envelope it isn’t an issue