Thank you for the compliment!

Whats the paper do

@@DanielPMurilloContrast for the color of the oil.

@@DanielPMurillo prevents splash

extra oil changes?...why?...if you are uncertain, one change is sufficient

after 1st engine flush i'll do a 2nd extra oil change after 500km mileage after the 1st flush. I change engine oil every 5,000km mileage FYI.

Yeah. My mechanic says I need a new head. 12-1500 bucks. Bought it this way. Don't judge me.

@@johnedward71 bump

Excellent comment thanks

Thank you sir!

Thank you for your thorough and masterful response. Those are very good points and imagining how the carbon works away like fine sandpaper on metal components is a good visualization. You provide enough reasons not to go beyond a 5K OCI.

Can't argue with facts from an expert with a life time of experience. Thankyou and enjoy your retirement

Yeah, it's actually dangerous to simply flush. It's safer to avoid flushing, especially on newer cars. It's can simply abuse some damage inside the engine. The comment said it all, the chemicals that cause that thin layering on the engine act as a sealant for the long haul. Thank you for the comment 👍

Thank you for sharing your experience

Frequent oil changes are likely best but no matter what I do, my oils is instantly black on my Cummins. High compression will push that blow by past the rings into the oil. I added an oil centrifuge which has actually been removing some of that soot from the oil. I will likely flush the engine to see if I can get the rings to seal a little better.

When would be the next time to do such a flush once cheap oil and filter flush is done ?

@@hamzakhalid95 If you keep up on ur oil changes 5k miles maximum, shouldn't be for awhile.

Having torn engines apart i n the past, that's a yes and a no. Pulling the pan and heads on a used engine is always interesting and at least a cup or two of old oil always manages to hide somewhere inside, the condition of which tells you everything about the owner's oil change routine. But it doesn't really matter, since just doing 2 or 3 short-interval oil change (say 100 miles) in a row you will get very close to "clean as possible" and that's close enough. My own engines upon getting torn apart were always clean and had minimum wear on timing chain and gears (the real test) and I flushed them maybe once every year or two. The flushing isn't nearly as important as short oil change intervals.

@@robertmaybeth3434 that’s good information to know thank you very much

@@robertmaybeth3434 so what was your method, routine system?

😲 Those are pretty extreme cycles to recommend and they better have the best oil to last that long! I am sure it is possible on brand new vehicles but for older cars, not so much.

@@OwenLucas European oils are considered pretty top of the line. However, if I spend 10,20,50K$ on a vehicle, I'm not going to try to save $50-100/year on an oil change or two at the expense of my engine. 1-2 20K, 3-4 10K oil changes and you are out of warranty and SOL. Try and get your blown engine repaired out of warranty even if you had the dealer do all the servicing.

Thanks! 👍

He is... a car surgeon.

I was thinking the same. I spill everywhere and always a big gust of wind comes out of nowhere as soon as I begin pouring.

Ha, I hate when that happens, having to fish out a drain plug in hot oil. I let it fly out for the video though, to show an uninterrupted stream of oil. If you really want some cringe, I changed my oil 6 times in a row, until it turned clear....without catching the drain plug! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aqeXaqtix83JY5s.html

@@OwenLucas 🤣🤣🤣 too funny! Should I come across that video I'll do my best to restrain myself haha

Omg I thought it was just me that felt that way! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

Fumoto valves

I use a magnetic tool grabber extended out once I get it loosened to the point of coming out and just use the magnet at a distance to spin it the rest of the way.

I was thinking the same thing

nothing changed inside the valve cover 308,000 km driven audi a4 b5 which has once had a long life service nad dirty engine. the oil was black and had to be changed a few times, but visually nothing changed

After how many km do you change the oil?

I have done the last 3 oil changes every 5000 kilometers. Now the engine is open because of the valve lifters and the chain tensioner change, and at the same time the oil sump was opened. absolutely terrible condition all places, although I have been using cleaning oils recently (mobile1 5w30 esp) . surprisingly, the oil pump strainer was not blocked.

@@TheMadeBlade so it didn't help either. Did your engine use oil?

The final oil fill was with Mobile 1 Extended Performance High Mileage Synthetic. Designed to last 20k miles or 1 year. If I notice any issues I'll change the engine oil early but I think it will be fine. I'm going to complete an oil analysis once the 20k is completed so stay tuned!

@@OwenLucas why not do an analysis at 10k and then again at 20k? If the oil isn't doing its job well, then you'll know sooner before doing more damage than just letting things go.

@@OwenLucas yeah and a box of pizza is supposed to last the night but that never happens now does it

Change oil evry 6k best engine last longer

@@owen8538 sh!t i change mine every 3months 😅 but then again I love the smoothness of my Engine sales goes with my transmission oil every 3 months

Does it perform way better?

So during this flushing, which oil filter is in the car? The used one or new one. Thanks

Do you have any manual videos how to do ?? I have same car ... dealer is asking $1500 to tune up

@@babagandu The video just showed you lol.

How many oil filters did you use in the oil change process?

can I just use the same oil filter to drain it twice?

I have the car ramps I use, I have to accelerate to get the car on the ramps for the oil change. What happens if I move the car onto the ramps ?

@@MrYniguez2 you are gunning the engine. Load. Not great. Put on ramps first!

I would add only one thing. Mineral based oils are better for flushing engine because they contain more dispersants and detergents. Why? Because they break down more and faster and need those additives.

Thank you!

Your English is great! It is interesting to see the different products people use in Europe. Glad to hear your engine is running nice and smooth, may it run many more miles!

I used to work in a fleet... not sure if letting oil drain for two hours achieves anything that 20 minutes drain time wouldn't. Of the engines I've torn apart for various reasons, even some that had been sitting for weeks, at least half cup to a cup of old oil always was still inside the engine anyway.

Great tip!

Some parts are just junk from the factory. You'd be fine.

@@ABeans07 😂😂😂

I own an 05 Civic with oil consumption. Would this be reccomended to do on the engine? I've been told that flushing the engine could cause more oil to be dispursed & that'll create an even bigger problem. I plan on using the Liquid-Moly Anti Friction, but would the flush alone protentially cause more problems? Thanks. V-TEC engine @ 170k btw

@@dbzownz12345 in your case I'd think possible piston ring issues, they may be worn and there were issues around your year range with blocks leaking from the factory and head gaskets blowing. The block leak was a recall so I'd doubt that's an issue and a blown head gasket is pretty noticable so u doubt it's that. So I'd focus on sealing any leaks and then see how it consumes. If it still a serious issue after that I'd recommend piston rings.

@@alleyesopen7776 What's the best product you'd suggest for sealing the leaks? I've ben told to use Rislone (yellow bottle) or their Compression Ring Sealer or Liquid Moly Anti Friction. Also heard Seafoam HM formula could prevent blow by as well, thoughts? Thanks.

Thank you!

Glad it was helpful!

Haha thanks!

Wow your engine will be super clean. Congrats on hitting 300k!

Best way.

@Boris yes. Smoother engine and quieter. Tiny bit better throttle response. Highy recommended. Ignore the naysayers.

I was thinking to try liqui moly flush on my father's car. Is it safe to use for old car? My father normally change his engine oil on time but is it safe to flush it? Any advice?

@@laraangelic3503 i just flushed a 1988 BMW 528e and it’s fine. Every car is different though so no idea what the history of your dad’s car is.

@@laraangelic3503 if it’s more than 30 years old I’d be careful

That's a very good approach, you must have a super clean engine! I just got a can of the sludge remover, not easy to get in the US, it came over from the UK, can't wait to try it out!

I also get 5 L canisters and my car takes 4 Litres. I just measure out a litre and when the draining oil is almost all out I just flush the pan out by adding the litre with the drain plug out.

Probably not necessary to try to get every last drop of dirty oil. You can't do it unless you want to take apart the whole engine. I learned this when I took apart my 1988 Nissan pickup, it had 180,000 miles on it and only 100K of those miles were mine. I changed the oil every 3 months like clockwork and here is what I found when I took the engine apart to do in-car overhaul: the timing chain was like new (although the tensioner was chewed up but not all the way gone). The connecting rod bearings were like new, and no ridge at the top of the cylinder (as happens on under-maintained engines). The piston rings were still fine but I changed them anyway (after honing the cylinders). In short the engine had no sludge deposits and little noticeable wear, you'd need a micrometer to measure any. Changing oil too often is the better course of action, to me.

I personally do this method every oil change and the oil stays clean for a long while after changes. Get the engine hot, add a quart of diesel, idle for 10 minutes, and finally drain. It gets a whole lot more stuff out and doesn’t cost much. Doing a flush with cheap oil is very wasteful.

@@markm0000 well oil and filter is only around 40 bucks. But I’ll let people do what they want

Engine flush will destroy engines with wet cambelts

​@@gamesmaster1060why

@@andyrendon7753 For my car, 9 liters of oil, its 100,- euro's in oil.

You are welcome!

Over 100k miles of this engine was filled with full synthetic so what you see is an accumulation over the years. 4k oil change intervals should keep the inside of your engine nice and bright!

​@@OwenLucas A Nissan engineer took apart engines that had oil changes at various mileage intervals. He recommended changing your oil after just 2000 miles (3200 km) for the best possible protection.

These cell phones listen to us man! 💀

@@edubb2491 Propably! In this case it was a good thing... o_0

Thanks for sharing. The 20k oil will be analyzed by Blackstone Labs once it reaches that point to see if there is any life left in it and how it did overall. So well see in a few months!

For my cars, and for other people that they care about their engines in Poland, 10k kilometers is the limit. Compared to The high mileage 20k miles shit

@@hubertgorlewski2404 exactly

I change my oil 6k as is cheaper to do oil and filters rather than engine rebuild

So I have to buy 2 filtres? One for the flash and the other one for using it after

Good luck!

After flushing,I asked to pour half liter of mobil oil from new pack as my TOYOTA probox need 3.5 liters of mobil oil.The mechanic poured in half liter first and drained it straight bringing down the black particle left in crankcase.After that he poured the remaining 3.5 ltrs and gooo

​@@ijaztariq2541 yeah I added 250 ml of nano boron nitride as lubricant and 300 ml of molybdenum (Liquid Moly) - so I had an extra 1/2 quart out of 7 quarts total. Normally this is supposed to be fine for my oil pan since it has a front pickup tube and that extra oil prevents lack of oil during quick acceleration throwing the oil to the back of the pan. But the Liquid Moly or molybdenum had this magnetic induction effect where it got sucked into the spark plug wells past the piston rings - since the Liquid Moly is nano size. So in other words I was supposed to drive the engine for 10 minutes to work in the boron nitride - and the engine sounded terrible. The next day I was idling at the auto parts store contemplating what to do and the "service engine soon" light kicked on and then the engine stalled out! So I drove to the oil change quick lube where I had just had the new synthetic oil put in the night before. They insisted that I just take out the extra 1/2 quart of oil by changing out the filter since they didn't want to replace that fresh 7 quarts of oil. So I played along with that and drove off - no charge - new filter - and the Service light came on again - flashing. So I got another oil change at a different quick lube place - and the service light still came on. By this time I had checked the code and I got misfire in cylinder six. So I then cleaned out that spark plug well - and it was all black from the molybdenum!! I still had a general misfire after I replaced the spark plug. So then I cleaned out ALL the spark plug wells and replaced all the spark plugs. STILL had a general misfire - only now it was Flashing. So then I realized I had damaged my catalytic converter - since I also did another engine flush and then I tried to clean out the catalytic converter with lacquer thinner. Since that didn't work then I got a $200 new cat and got it welded in by the muffler shop for $200. STILL got the cylinder six misfire flash and it went away. Engine still sounded terrible and like it had valve damage or maybe rod damage. So I tried adding some MORE boron nitride and then I got the misfire code again - this time solid and not flashing. So I drove to this one mechanic and he said that the new catalytic converter is working fine but the cylinder six misfire is intermittent - so it's NOT a valve or rod knock! This was a huge relief to me. He said maybe I needed to replace the ignition coil. In fact I had just put in all new ignition coils - but he said maybe that one was bad. So I ordered 1 nice Delphi OEM ignition coil. It took too long to get it so I switched out the cylinder six ignition coil - with cylinder two. Misfire was still there. So I bought a 2nd new ignition coil locally and misfire was still there. Finally I removed the cylinder six spark plug - it's behind the firewall so you can't see it. The porcelain on the plug was cracked - and I was not sure if I cracked it when taking it out. That particular plug for my engine is too long to use the spark plug socket. So when I put in the NEW spark plug again I did not torque it to spec since that seemed to be putting to much torque at the wrong angle - since that cylinder is hard to get at. Sure enough NOW finally the misfire was gone and the engine works - apparently fine now. In fact the lifter ticking noise seems to be better for sure than before - so all that engine flushing and snake oil seemed to clean out the engine after all. Still I do have another 250 ml of boron nitride - and I could add a bit to it - but I have learned my snake oil lesson for now. haha.

Thank you for watching!

Disagreed. Use Synthetic and either the OEM filter or a Purolator Pure or BOSS and change every 5,000. You won't have a sludge issue

engine flush will destroy some engines with wet cambelts

That is an interesting approach! I guess if you tape a bag around the drain hole it could prevent it from spraying and catch everything for easy disposal.

If you do tape à bag, make some holes on the top for air to escape

And the dust the leaf blower might be sucking up blowing it in the engine 😅

Yes I filled up the engine oil completely each time and it is fine to use the flush with the original old oil. 👍

@@OwenLucas 😊 Thanks

Same I always change mine at 5000km mileage(about 2-3mth) and I'll do a full flush once a year which after the 1st flush I'll do another(2nd) final flush on 500km mileage and the every flush costs me about MYR160 Malaysian ringgit(about USD40). Most people not consider flushing but to have smooth ride I thought it is the best way

@Christopher Tan Yeah twice! Same brand and type. It's kinda sound stupid but rather not to use flush additive because it'll affecting the seals lifespan. I'll do it once a year on year end

@@yeongkarsoon481 But i think the vendor of engine flush has considered about the seal/rubber issue. Now Days in Indonesia, the authorized service use engine flush as the part of periodic service.

I changed my oils every 15000km since 2004 on my ford falcon. No engine flush and now have 600000 km on original engine.

@@yeongkarsoon481 is it problem if we use to drive 500km or more after 1st flush or recommend to change for 2nd flush immediately?

My oil was changed regularly for the past 15 years, at some point gunk and sludge will form from heavy use. It wasn't too bad on my car but imagine a taxi idling all day or a work truck towing heavy loads day in day out.

3k on regular oil/5k on synthetic oil

@@barrypowell829 I usually go a little over 3K with regular oil or synthetic blend. 10K between oil changes seems to be temping fate. I assumed there is some small print that says "Up to" right before the 10K recommendation with synthetic oil. I probably change mine too early, a habit I picked up from my Dad. His theory was he never saw an engine fail because the oil was too clean.

Got a 2006 Corolla and have 260k miles on it. Never had a problem aside from a worn out clutch had to replace it on 190k. Modern oils have detergents that will clean your engine. Please stop using engine flush, you will scar the bearings and crankshaft. By the way I forgot to say it's 5k and 10k highway miles. If you live on NYC or LA with traffic you should change your oil early. Try to check the dipstick every week to see if it's already black. Drive safe everyone.

Can't argue with that. I watch a lot of these videos and read a lot about car maintenance. There's a lot of things i wanted to try including engine flushes just to make myself think i was doing something amazing to keep my car tiptop. After consuming so much information, i came to realise no, it's actually just that simple. The best quality oil does all the work for you. You just got to keep it there fresh and clean every 12000km in my case. Anything beyond is just trying to do something to tell yourself damn I'm so good at maintaining my car, look at all this these things I'm doing

clean/dirty looking oil doesn't mean anything dude, only a 'used oil analysis' can be trusted.

What a waste of time and money

Sounds like you should have some good results! Enjoy and good luck!

​@@OwenLucas Thank you :) I wanted to simply use an additive, but you convinced me than I should also do a flush after that, to remove the remaining additive, and the remaining super-dirty oil inside, the color of your flushing oil was eye-opening about how much residue stays in the engine after just a basic oil change.

Have you seen hot shots secret stiction oil treatment? What that does is turns the sludge and chunks of carbon back into a liquid for the car to easily expose of them. I'm waiting for some to arrive to try out as many people are talking about there products

Those are great points!

Pennzoil Ultra visibly started to clean the varnish in my engine in 2 oil changes. Can't recommend it enough.

Valvoline, Motul, and Amsoil top also

@@babagandu tmkc gandubaba

Walmart Super Tech has all the same fancy numbers and letters as the big boy companies. It’s API approved and has the seal to prove it. You like pretty bottles and logos and the higher price impressions you and makes you sleep better at night then buy it. Change your oil yourself every five thousand miles for about $30.00. Walmart full synthetic oil five quart jug about $21.00 and a K&N Mobil One or any quality filter total runs about $30.00. Do it yourself.

U are using diesel engine oil for petrol car ?

@@visharadsudans yes I do as well. Running diesels rotella t6 for the past 5 years on my Miata and the lifter tick has gone away and with no issues.

@@eviltwiiin wat are the benefits of using diesel oils in petrol cars ?

@@visharadsudans like the guy above said, diesel oil has more detergents.

When I replaced the valve cover on my 2001 BMW at 170k Miles everything was sparkly clean in there. No oil residue build up whatsoever. I think modern engines, if oil is changed regularly, don't have as much gunk in there as people think. I replaced oil every ~8k miles

Thank you for watching!

I have not experienced any problems so far, runs just fine. Liqui Moly's website states: "Neutral to seals and other materials installed in the engine".

Look at other sources and make an informed decision. From my experience and reading, yes seal leams and engine problems can occur after flushing.

I agree also if you didnt build the engine i wouldnt recomend flushing it unless it is pivital to fixing a existing problem. I found after flushing a engine that where prior mechanics had used black rtv silicon that the silicon became soft elastic mushy and started leaking oil permanently where there was a good seal before the flush. I recomend not doing it unless you know all the engine parts will be able to handle it..

I used it on my 359,000 mile Honda CRV and it made it run great. Also added Ceratec in the new oil. Your car will be fine lol

Unless you have a problem, just throw in seafoam, marvel mystery oil, or another such product a few hundred miles before the change. Its not as aggressive and people have done it for half a century with no problems

Usually oil should be changed right after driving as most contaminants will be suspended in the oil rather than settling into the pan.

@@bryanmartinez9848 yep exactly. While its hot. Its better straight away

Yes, the same oil weight, brand name doesn't matter.

Excellent question.I got a few different brands laying around same grade that I well wanna use and get rid of.

I have 2 more flush videos coming out , no funnels either. The trick is not to drink any coffee haha. Thank you for watching!

I thought the exact same thing about his steady hands!

What do u mean by rinse?

No need to hold the bottle freehand, just brace one hand against the engine cover like a tripod

Yes 👍

Exactly! Thank for watching!

Great point, do you find diesel engine oil is much dirtier? I also suspect vehicles driven in dusty environments like the southwest or middle east might have more oil contamination due to exposure to the elements over time, what's your opinion on this? Thanks for watching!

@@OwenLucas Diesel engine oil is normally a rich black colour doing the two flush method don’t have a impact on the colour and all I can say on other vehicles in other countries is that every manufacturer supplies information best suited too there climate on oils too use and service intervals always follow manufactures advise is the best thing I can say

Uea but purple leaves a white corrosive residue behind on metal and aluminum

@Highlights Unleashed I never use true aluminum LS's buy only iron block lm7s and sbc and LA chrysler and Magnums. I have NEVER seen white sediment from royal purple and I have no problems talking trah on royal bc I an AMSOIL guy. The shit works fine and actually concerned why you're getting white chalk in your builds

Not talking shit I have aluminum upper intake manifold and I tried using it as a degreaser and it caused it get this chalky white powder all over it. I was like you got to be f@@in kidding me 😂 I trying to clean it not get it dirty.

@@-OokySpooky- That 'chalk' is the cleaner eating the aluminum... Those types of cleaners have to be thoroughly rinsed off raw aluminum or this is the result. Scrub the snot out of it with hot soapy water, that probably won't remove all the oxidization but should prevent it from getting worse. So be careful where you put the Purple! That's all I'm saying

@@-OokySpooky- who said I had Ls engine 😂 I was talking about purple

I guess it depends on where you go. As long as the oil meets your vehicles API certification you are fine. Even basic Walmart ooo filters are great so those don’t really matter anymore in my opinion.

Yes, its like a second oil change. Fill it to capacity 👍

Thanks,

I think that is a good idea as long as the engine is hot, I have used some different weights for flushes myself.