Please buy a funnel your giving me OCD

@@andy2906 ...and PLEASE catch that drain plug before it falls in that oil! 😂But, I really learned a lot from this video. THANKS OWEN LUCAS for doing this test ❤

@@jaywholoveseveryone1721 are YOU Talkin' to ME?

I want to know can we drive the car for some miles after adding engine flush

??

@@ramonciprino5880 how do you not get it?

He likes funholes

Good one!

Lol

I've seen people spill more oil with a funnel than this man did

Ha

That is quite a machine! I question what shops do nowadays but with equipment like that, you get what you pay for.

@@OwenLucas Well, you can make scuh a machine, easily. Electric heater for central heating, electric oil pump, and hoses. But, you can also use diesel, and flush it 2-3 times, thats cheaper method.

I remember watching someone do that while waiting for my vehicle. I was fascinated by it for some reason 😂

Company still exists. The machine you mention is discontinued. You can still get the manual off their site.

Yot engine was really dirty inside, and finały was cleaned after 200km, cause working longer and soecific could make his job.

Interesting that heating the oil alone discolors it, the 126 mile drive was 2 hours almost non stop so the engine definitely got up to temperature.

@@OwenLucas keep up with methods, bring common sense to the many car myths out there.

Yes, this is completely correct, every oil becomes darker again after a short time, after just a "normal" oil change, without such a remedy, it can even look very black again, like after thousands of kilometers. Good to see if you manually measure the oil level on the stick. The Liqui Moly still had a cleaning performance here, because particles could be seen again in the filter after only a few kilometers of driving.

So basically it close to $150.00 to do this. 4 oil changes (if you do it yourself) and engine flush.

how many oil changes before using the flush on a 65k mile car do you think is necessary to do a good flush?

Loo

Exponential decrease with oil changes.

If your car is abused by previous owner, good luck!

Best flush is add 1liter of kerosine to old oil, run for 10-30 minutes, not on idle but avoid heavy load for engine just light driving or some idle and moderate rev (2-2.5k rpm) on neutral. Drain everything, change oil filter use just cheapest one. Buy cheap synthetic or semi-synthetic oil 1.5 times quantity You need for Your engine. Remove Your spark plugs and add about 100ml of kerosine into every cylinder, leave it overnight. Next day turn engine with statrer still without sparkplugs to avoid hydrolock and remove excess kerosine from cylinders (probably there will be none anyway, all or most drain down to oil pan through piston rings softening carbon deposits but just to be safe check it). Put sparkplugs back. Now add 50:50 mix of oil and kerosine to Your engine top it off. Run it on neutral with moderate revving (or very very light driving) for 30-60 minutes. Drain everything, change oil filter for cheapest one. Top up engine with cheap oil to clean the residue. Drive on it short time like 100-300 hundred km/miles. Drain oil and replace oil filter. Now use quality oil and filter. You're ready to go. Change Your oil and filter often, I do it usually between 10-12kkm or 6-8k miles even my car manufacturer recommends like 20-30kkm/15-20kmiles oil changes which is ridiculous but welcome to europe. This will not only clean the engine oil system, also piston rings and combustion chamber, big chance to reduce or even eliminate oil consumption of engine, make it run better. Many times oil consumption is not because of worn piston rings it's because they are stuck with carbon deposits (some natural due to long use of engine but mostly because not changing oil on time before). If You willing to spend more money You add some engine flush instead of kerosine like 50% oil 25% of kerosine and 25% of engine flush, it will be even more effecient. Don't use like some people 100% kerosine or diesel fuel instead of oil because You will have too low engine oil pressure so one you risk damaging engine second with low oil pressure and flow it doesn't work as well

Is it a myth that flushing an older engine causes it to spring leaks ?

Thank you very much!

Yes, basically all it does show if you change your oil 3 times in a row it comes out clean.

Glad to hear it worked out! 💪

Totally agree. I was going to write that exact same comment. I would have actually loved to see that, which would have truly completed the test.

Yep. Ended test early. Had no money for gas. Spent it all on oil. Regardless, great video!

Agreed, $25 well spent. Its tough looking at a filter cut with a saw as you cant tell what metal or contaminants are from the saw blade or the engine.

@@OwenLucas That's the issue with most of the reviewers just cutting into it with power tools. I can understands tin snips. But when they say try as best they can to not contaminate the filter but then proceed to cut with a power tool it makes their effort moot. Great job on the thought process. Subbing for that.

Thank you Sir!

According to the LiquiMoly engineer that I spoke with. The pro-Line Engine Flush is the most powerful of their engine flushes. Regarding the valves, you will need a specific valve cleaner. Techron is works great along with LiquiMoly 2001 Valve Clean.

@@OwenLucas thanks! 👍🏼

I didn’t have a chance to. 2000 miles? You will never need a flush changing oil so frequently. I like the TL design of the 08 generation, very clean, have fun!

Is the engine in an Alpha Romeo 159? That is a beautiful car. Glad to see the flush worked out for you! A good oil with a lot of detergents will also help clean your engine between flushes.

I must ask where you found a 1.9 JTDm with less then 200 000km. The dash bight be showing that but trust me not a single one has that milage. None the less that is a very reliable engine. I suppose you got it in the Alfa 147 or 159 or in Fiat Stilo

10k is a pretty long interval

​@@Druze_Tito not really. 6000 Miles. It's about average I would've thought

@@eponymous7910 average doesnt mean anything. It is too high. I dont recommend going more than 6000 km no matter the oil. If you love your car.

Glad it helped!

I will take your word for it, no need for me to bring motor oil into the kitchen, my wife would be very mad! Very good point though, as a previous commenter mentioned, particle count would be the definitive test.

I second that. When I bought my new car I did an oil change at 500 miles and 1k miles and it was brown both times. It had little hint of gold but that’s about it.

Fresh oil also doesn’t come out that dark after 125 miles

@@Athiril if it is a diesel it will come out black. It is designed to.

@@Athiril Disagree

Grazie per i complimenti signore. Non ho sentito parlare di Motor Clean 1019. Non è disponibile negli Stati Uniti, ma vedrò se riesco a procurarmene uno. Liqui Moly produce così tanti prodotti che la loro gamma è davvero impressionante. Grazie ancora.

No it doesn’t. If your oil discolors from getting hot, you have some seriously bad oil.

Blow-by occurs when combustion gases and possibly some unburned fuel pass by the piston rings and enter the crankcase. These gases can contain carbon from the combustion process, which then mixes with the engine oil, causing it to darken. If the piston rings are worn out or not sealing properly, blow-by can increase, leading to more rapid oil discoloration.

@@datsuntoyy Yes it does. It is a well-known characteristic in the oil industry around thermal/fluid dynamics. Simply heating oil in a beaker will turn the oil black. Now, there a many other factors which can contribute, but oxidation and heat will turn the oil from its gold color to black quite quickly. Project Farm has some great oil testing videos (much of which can be subjective) but he will heat up oil on hot plates and after 30 minutes of heat the oil is black.

@@cbidwell91 Burning oil will turn it black, ordinary use doesn't get that hot. I've seen plenty of oil samples in my 50 years of working on cars with a few hundred miles that have no color at all other than the light amber it comes with. Likewise, MANY years ago I've seen brand new oil that's nearly black. Hot plates get a lot hotter than a car engine does. My car's maxes out at 220 (hottest I've ever seen it) yet my hot plate can get over twice that. In his test he's heating it to 400 degrees and flashpoint of Mobil 1 5w-30 is 440 so he's heating it to nearly catching on fire. He also talks about the oil smoking, in cooking it's called the smoke point and oil burns when it his the smoke point.

Bottled it up for my next oil change, completely good oil. 👍

wouldnt that be hard on turbo bearings? if you drive a OEm turbo 4?

No it wont. So much detergents and emulgator in it.

Did you mean add to old oil to help flush and then drain, or to top off after fresh oil change. Thanks

@@slimsherman5818 That's correct, 500-1000 miles before the next oil change a shot of ATF into the engine oil. The biggest generator of nasty sludge is cold thermostats, short trips and crazy intervals between changes.

i hear this answer all the time everywhere. Be aware that using engine flush can clog the oil pump or the pickup screen. Have you ever seen how big is the pickup screen and how big are the gaps? If you can clog this pickup screen it means your engine is tearing apart not just sludge. To clog this screen you need pieces of the bearings or the pistons. It is not so simple to clog the pickup screen. And if the engine can clog because of this it means you need a change of engine not just sludge removers.

Thank you!

More are coming soon!

20 minutes.

20 minutes.

Interesting question, you would hope it got everything.

Thank you! Yes, that's basically 2 hours of driving, would have been a lot of filming time lol.

@@OwenLucas yea, right! lol

You have to use the same amount of oil.

Um, did you see the not precision at 3:14????

For the Pro Line Engine Flush you run the engine 10 - 15 minutes, just idle, no driving. For the Sludge remover you have to drive 200kms with the flush in the engine, light driving. The flushes I did before the sludge remover are not necessary as they were to achieve a clear engine oil to show if there is any difference with the sludge remover. It would be a waste to change oil before the flush. But after the flush you change the oil and filter.

I’ve heard nothing but good things about ceratech. It’s an additive not a cleaner. Shouldn’t cause any leaks at all.

Thank you sir!

The cleaners are supposed to be timing belt safe, but the Sludge Remover is the weaker formula so it takes longer to achieve the same cleaning results as Proline because you have to drive 200km. I confirmed the Sludge Remover is not as harsh as the Proline Flush with a call to the engineers at Liqui Moly.

No idea, I didn’t run an oil analysis but those results would be interesting to see.

It's so. I use a cleaning additive from Mathy and I am absolutely convinced that these additives cause more dirt than a normal oil rinse would ever do.

Very interesting points. I’ll have to check the MSDS to see if there is moly in the flush, if they even disclose that. Would be interesting to see if LiquiMoly turns new oil on a new engine dark! The part about thickening is interesting as I thought the solvents in the flush thinned the oil. Thank you for your insights!

Interesting, give it a flew flushes first, might be able to avoid pulling the pan off. Congrats on taking care of the car to 250k! 💪

@@OwenLucas she's been a remarkable car how many people underestimate the Subaru and how reliable they are just normal maintenance and these things will go forever

@@michaelmyers3892 make sure you replace the head gasket with the new MLS style if you haven't already done so

What kind of bike?

According to Liqui Moly: "Safe with catalytic converters and particulate filters (GPF/DPF) as well as for belt-in-oil systems. Contents (300 mL) is sufficient for 3-5 Liters (0.9 gal. to 1.3 gal.) motor oil. Long-term effect up to 50.000 km (30.000 miles)." So yes it is safe, enjoy!

150km is a good time especially if you worked the engine hard but if it was all highway miles, maybe wait another 50k.

Those would be the perfect oils for a flush! It won’t matter if they are not synthetic either for 125 miles.

@@OwenLucas That's great, good to know. thanks. Usually when I change my oil, I pour in maybe a half qt after draining it. I do that hoping to catch and wash away some settled sludge. Then after leaving it to drain for a while more, I plug it and fill properly. Do you think that did any good at all ?

wow 90-120 mins? 2 hours of idling?? that cant be good?

😂Not for your wallet and not for the environment

You are crazy 😅

My pleasure 😊

That is a very good point, especially about the vvt screen.

Always replace vvt screen after flush. When you are at idle than no harm can be done

You won’t notice anything unless your engine is sludges up really bad. It’s preventative maintenance so that you do not have any sludging in the future.

Use the amount in the user manual to fill the engine. You want it to be full. The multiple oil fills in this video were to have clear oil to see if the flush worked as indicated by dirty oil, so 1 oil change after the flush is all you need.

@@OwenLucasthanks for your answer, oh okay, if that too much sludge, will be disolve if use the liquimoly engine flush 1 liter or 2 liters..? or not..?

@@anggismay6840 I think 1 flush would be enough, what ever remains after the first flush of oil should be enough. I don't know the capacity or liters you use or the dimensions of you engine so it is hard to tell.

@@OwenLucas my engine just use 3.6 liters engine oil. 🙏

Thank you!

Thank you very much!

I’d love to see the before and after but taking the cover apart on this engine, being a V6, is a lot of work.

@@OwenLucas Btw from 1st oil change + LQ Engine Flush to the 3rd oil change, what interval did you use ? Did you drive your vehicle for each oil change ?

Yes, 20 minutes of idling.

Welcome 👍

Definitely use a cheap oil filter for the flush. Regarding the B12 Chemtool. It can be used for a piston soak to free up the oil control rings which have most likely jammed and are letting oil into the combustion chamber. It’s worth a shot and I’ve heard some people have success.