I'm glad you liked the video!

That's correct! Just like you said, I have also heard the boat community has had drain back issues. Luckily I haven't seen that problem on land vehicles with Olds engines. I use the restrictors to improve the oil characteristics at the mains by restricting flow to the inner cam bearings. It has lots of benefits and protects your mains! Thank you for the comment and I'm glad you liked the video.

@@junkdump2720 how long do your engines typically last? I had mine built by a local shop, he claimed lifters came apart twice, and the third time i tryed to pick it up I lost all oil pressure, and it over heated. Its bored 40 over, heads, valves and everything has been redone, so I am going to try fixing it myself. He installed a high volume oil pump with an upgraded spring. Should I go with the stronger pump again, or go back down to stock to keep more oil down below? Thank you for all the quality content

@@rachal9306 I have had great luck so far with my builds. I've had two fails, one 350 had a cam lobe and lifter fail with a bent pushrod. I replaced the cam and lifters and as a precaution use hardened pushrods with all my builds now, that 350 had more than 200k on it when it was torn down for upgrading. The second was a spun rod bearing, I bought a used 425 rod from a machine shop and didn't double check the journal diameter, the engine started knocking when it hit 1200 miles, the bearing shells slipped on top of each other, I had to replace the rod and crank on that engine, that was entirely my fault and I double check measurements now. Your situation sounds very frustrating. I assume your engine is a big block (455), You should be able to run a high volume/pressure pump without issue. A loss of oil pressure in a newly built engine is typically due to oil pump failures, incorrect bearing tolerances, or debris blockage. I would start diagnosis by removing the distributor and running the oil pump manually (counter clockwise) with the valve covers off and observe if oil is making it to the rockers on all cylinders, I have an oil pressure gauge I screw into the front orifice on the block to see if pressure is building in the galleries. Once you break down the engine take your time measuring the following: Piston to wall clearance, bearing clearances on all mains and rod bearings. If you plan on running 10w30 oil, your bearing tolerances should be 0.0008 - 0.0038 inches on Mains and 0.0007 - 0.0032 inches on Rods. Did the engine builder try to grind your rear main cap, where the oil pump attaches, if done wrong this can cause damage. While you are diagnosing the problem and when you tear it down I would suggest adding the oil restrictors from my video on Olds oiling. If you think too much oil is going to the top end you can decide to install restricted pushrods to help. If the overheat is not due to oil pressure loss, I find these engines overheat most commonly from ignition advance being set too high and piston to wall clearances set too tight. Let me know what you find, I'm interested to hear what's causing the issue for your engine.

Olds 260-455 v8 engines oiling system goes back to 1949 Olds V8 engines oiling galleries. No surprise that the modern Olds aren't up to the task of higher rpms & power production.

Thank you! I'm trying very hard to dispel some of the inaccuracies that are being perpetuated on the internet, glad to hear there are people out there that appreciate it.

Thank you, I'm glad you found the information helpful. That video took a long time to make but I wanted it to be thorough as there is so much misinformation about Olds oiling.

@@junkdump2720 yes, thats a fact! And I know because I blew up my fair share as a teenager 😆

Help / ideas ? .. have a 455 olds f - w30 block in my jet boat .. was running 4krpms for a long distance am heard a loud dense crack sound .. Shit it down and checked ,, idk where from but spat out all the oil from somewhere .. intake and heads and oil pan all look dry no clue where the oil loss is or how .. dark clean oil is all over the sump pump area but pulled oil fill tube out by the timing chain it’s covered in milky water and oil .. also noticed lack of power an won’t stay running have to keep feathering the gas but it still runs smooth with no ticking or knocking sounds .. any ideas

Thanks! I was bothered by forum "experts" giving people incorrect information concerning Olds oiling and restrictors. I hope this video starts to replace the misinformation.

Thank you for the feedback, I'm glad it helped you out!

Exactly! I like that you point out the difference between RPM peak and sustained RPM, that is an extremely important difference when considering these types of modifications on an engine build. Thank you for the comment and thank you for watching!

@@junkdump2720 you're very thorough, thank you for your videos.

I appreciate the support, thank you!

I also do this on every block and heads that I work. Thank you for commenting.

Thank you for the comment! I agree that the high volume high pressure pumps are a little overkill, thanks for the tip.

In an Oldsmobile engine there is no channel behind the cam bearings (that I can recollect on a 307, 330, 350, 425, or 455. I haven't built a 403 or 400 in a long time so I'm not certain on those). You can see that at 4:45 in the video, there is no channel for oil to travel behind the cam bearing. If the cam bearing hole is not lined up, the passage will be blocked and no oil will get to the bearing surface. I have heard of people drilling a smaller hole in the bearing at the 3 or 6 position and installing cam bearings with the smaller hole lined up with the passage, but I don't recommend that. The knurled hammer in style restrictors are cheap, easy to install, and work very well.

Yeah the Durabond 0-6b with back side groove would be only way I can see it possibly working, but your point on economy and ease of the hammer in restrictors is a solid point! Thanks

I always open up and reshape the oil return holes in the Oldsmobile heads I work, it helps with drain back, but I have never seen a street or street/strip Olds engine suffer damage from drain back problems. I hear it's an issue with boat engines. I never touch the oil holes under the pump and don't recommend it. The Olds oil pump bolts onto the rear main cap, I believe you should never work your rear main cap. It will not gain a significant benefit for the chance at weakening or causing alignment/deflection issues with your rear main cap. You can easily restrict your top end if necessary or install an oil pump or pump spring to gain pressure and/or volume. Thank you for the comment.

Oldsmobile created a great engine and a 1972 442 is also a great car! Which factory striping did yours have, was it the pinstripe hood outlines like my cutlass in the 350 video? Thank you for sharing!

@@junkdump2720 The 442 pinstriping & the hood pinstripes.

@@Marc816 That's awesome, you see the large hood stripes all the time but I prefer the 70's look of the hood pinstripes!

There are 2 oiling holes in the front of the block for the oil galleries, both are sealed with threaded plugs, the plug closest to the fill tube (passenger side) has a hole in. There are 2 oiling holes at the back of the block for the oil galleries, both are sealed with threaded plugs, the drivers side plug has a hole in it and it is behind a core plug. There are 2 oil holes in the block on the passenger side where the oil filter adapter housing will be bolted to. There is one hole on the front of the block next to the casting number that is tapped for the oil pressure sender. There are 16 oil holes in the lifter bores, and the remaining oil holes are in the block are for the main and cam bearings. All other holes in the block are for casting (core) plugs, coolant drains, coolant passages and so on. I hope this answers your question, if not let me know and I will try to clarify.

I would start by checking your oil pressure. If that is normal start diagnosis by turning your engine to TDC on your timing mark, then mark your cap to rotor position and remove the distributor. Now rotate your engine while priming it, see my video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jaiWm7N6yOCVfYU.html Take note of which rockers are not receiving oil. Once you determine what isn't getting oil you can check for clogs or defects in your lifters and pushrods. If all of your rockers are not receiving oil you will likely have to teardown the engine to determine what is wrong. If all the rockers are getting oil and you hear clattering when the engine was running, it is possible that there is excessive wear in your bearings, cam, lifters, pushrods, or rockers. Thank you for the question and let us know what you find.

Thank you for the question! That is a really clever idea that should theoretically work. Practically speaking, I have no idea if it would work. Just be cautious that the threads don't cut the tube and send a sliver of material through your engine. If you try it, just be certain you confirm oil seeping from all pushrod tops. Let me know if it works for you, that's great "outside the box" thinking!

Companies exist that sell pre-lubers. they store oil, then force oil into the motor under pressure before start up.

When installed properly restrictors will not dramatically affect oil pressure. You are testing at the correct port, the driver side top front port just behind the timing cover. There are many factors that contribute to oil pressure, the most common issue that causes low pressure at idle is high bearing tolerances from bearing wear or incorrectly sized bearings. The good news is that the stock spec for Oldsmobile engine oil pressure is 7psi at idle when warm and 35psi at 2000-3000 rpm when warm.

@@junkdump2720 thanks do you have a shop where are you located?

@@hustlewell I do have a shop located in Maine.

Kenne-Bell put out a chart of minimum "hot" oil pressure versus rpm. For 15 psi on a 455 it gets to about 2250 rpm, to leave at least 10 psi getting to the rods. For a 350 would get to 2750 rpm. I never ran restrictors in any of my Olds. Hopefully your pressure increases with rpm.

@@robb1165 15 psi at 2250 would be below the minimum pressure specification. I would say that's indicative of a problem or excessive wear.

You make a great point that poor machining and balancing result in a lot of damaged engines. The restrictors mentioned in this video are harmless and work excellent, I provided the flow diagram to hopefully help dispell the misinformation and help people understand why this restrictor type helps without restricting oil flow where it's needed. Thank you for comment and your 385 sounds like it's going to be an excellent engine.

350 or 455

Maximum RPM is determined by, and limited by many factors including, the cam, heads, and intake. Most stock pre 1973 Olds 350 peak power output occurs at 4500-5400 rpm making it unnecessary to rev past 5000-6000 rpm. Peak output in pre 1973 Stock Olds 455 averages at 4200-5000 rpm making it unnecessary to rev past 4500-5500 rpm. The stock oiling system is not designed for sustained 5500+ rpm in racing applications.

This video demonstrates the oil system for Oldsmobile 260, 307, 330, 350, 400, 425, and 455. The older engines are different.

Ok thank you very much

If you are worried about this happening I suggest using deflectors or restricted pushrods. Oil deflectors will not adversely effect your engine if properly installed. A pneumatic drill will run the oil pump at idle speeds so you can verify proper operation with one of the valve covers removed.

@junkdump2720 I just haven't seen any oil deflectors for an olds 455, comp cams doesn't have any that I've seen, what I have seen is temporary ones or weld on one's, .. it seems restricted pushrods are as expensive as the complete set of rockers, pushrods, guides and studs. And I'm positive I won't find any in canada... I think I'll take the high pressure spring out of the high volume pump and it won't be as aggressive... I also wonder if the problem will even exist at low rpm, I never get this thing over 3500 rpm anyway

@@TrentGustus You are correct, finding deflectors for an Olds engine is near impossible. You can get restricted pushrods for $250 USD through Mondello, measure your originals and they should be something close to the PR-9.700x5/16, they are Hardened with a 0.040 restricted end that should be on the Rocker Side. Removing the high pressure spring is a great idea for your engine and you hopefully won't have problems.

@junkdump2720 use the original pushrods with the comp cams rockers? Of course comp specifically says to use their pushrods as well , ... maybe that's the best idea, I'll look at my old pushrods.

@@TrentGustus You will need hardened pushrods if you have heavier valve springs than stock. Lots of Olds guys run high volume oil pumps without deflectors, I don't think I have ever seen Olds specific deflectors.

Oldsmobile engines have heavy rotating assemblies, any SUSTAINED rpm's higher than 5000 rpm is risky with stock pistons, rods, oil pump, and crank. The weight of your rotating assembly puts a lot of strain on the two bolt main bottom end at 5000-5500 rpm. If you upgrade to a Nodular Iron crank, forged aluminum pistons, oil restrictors (the 3 in the bottom end mentioned in the video), ARP bolts, main cap supports, HV oil pump, Clevite 77 bearings, and have your rotating assembly balanced, you can safely run an Oldsmobile engine to 6200-6500 rpm.

@@junkdump2720 well that explains a bunch. When I was 19 (45 now) I put a mild cam, 4 bbl intake, headers and HEI on my 69 rocket 350 and ran the hell out of it. Had 63,000 on the clock and was shooting oil out the tail pipe by 96,000. Ran 9s in the 8th with basically stock parts and a 2 speed Jetaway trans. First car, first build, first broken heart when she died.

@@BigUnitBeef What a great car story, even with the tragic ending. I raced with my first Olds on the 8th mile too! Thanks for sharing.

Personally I feel oil restriction is not needed on the bottom end. Use back grooved cam bearings and then use a quality restricted pushrod, enlarge the oil returns in the heads and in high performance applications drill the back of the heads for drains that go directly back to the pan. The oil problem is on the top end not the bottom.

I see your point, I will consider removing or lowering the music in these types of videos in the future. Certainly the information is more important than the music, thanks for the comment.

For sure, music has no place in these types of instructional videos.

That's a common misconception that I have heard before, in truth the restrictors do not affect the breaking in of a new cam. The cam break in procedure is for the cam lobe surfaces and lifters. The cam bearings are a viscous bearing, like your main bearings, and have no direct effect on the cam lobes. When restrictors are used, the oil is only being limited to the 3 inner cam bearings as shown in this video. Your camshaft lobes primarily receive oiling from the crankshaft splash/slinging effect, in some engines they also partially receive oil from drain back in the valley. This is the main reason why the camshaft break in procedure always directs you to keep the engine RPM higher than idle, usually somewhere between 1500-3500 RPM. Thank you for the comment, I'm glad to have the opportunity to explain more about oil restriction in Olds engines.

@@junkdump2720 I appreciate you taking the opportunity to explain. I've never done it, and I'm not even sure that I'll have to yet. Hopefully not, because to be honest it doesn't sound all that much fun with or without the restrictors.