This video came out just as I was removing a seized lifter from my Ex Police 2015 Charger Pursuit. I caught the lifter tick so early, it didn't get a chance to damage my camshaft. Lucky me. To all Hemi owners, listen to your engine! Nice video by the way!

Actually better than I expected, a few things though. 1) It's not a lack of overall lubrication. The lifters are drenched in oil and actually have THREE oil sources. There's a main oil galley that is ALWAYS providing oil to the outside of the lifter body. This is the source that lubricates the needles. The inside of the lifter is supplied oil from the head that flows down the pushrod. And the MDS system provides a third source when activated. 2) The lifter part number has changed, the last letter of the part number is the evolution. The current lifter is D, the needle bearings first got larger with the C introduced in 2014. The photo shown at 5:12 is a key thing to understand. From '14 up they'll look like the lower one. The C-D evolution is an internal change that did not effect the bearings. 3) The idling and oil viscosity thing also has a lot to do with heat. Compare the 6.4 to the 5.7, they both use the same lifters, both have MDS and VVT, and both have similar camshafts. But the 6.4 doesn't experience a lot of lifter failures. There's two key differences. The 6.4 specifies a 0W40 oil and has an oil cooler. The 5.7 specifies 5W20 and usually doesn't. So in the 5.7 the oil is already thinner and at times hotter which again makes it thinner. This is a key part of idling as the engine relies on air flow under the oil pan to cool the oil. Then consider that often engines are idled for long periods to run the AC, which again makes everything hotter.

You pay 60-70k on a vehicle and they consider 118k miles "the life of the vehicle"? Damn

This video was extremely helpful, especially after becoming extremely paranoid after seeing multiple sources online acting like this happens frequently to all 345 Hemis. I recently purchased a 2010 Jeep Commander with the 345 and with your checklist I’m able to cull my anxiety with a good checklist of things to do. Thank you for your help!

This was the best, most honest review of the HEMI lifer issue. My ‘16 1500 MDS with 115k. Probably idles 3-4hrs everyday. I’ve never had a problem. However, I’ve used synthetic oil and extended longevity oil filters from day 1, changing oil every 10k. A friend of mine that manages a fleet of rams with the 5.7 he uses exclusively Amsoil and doesn’t see the lifter issue till 500-600k. Most would say this confirms a lubrication issue, however it more accurately would point to poor metallurgy of the pins. Great video

Well researched! Owned 2012 Durango (new) which had the MDS and VVT. Sold it in 2017 with 75K miles. No ticking evident however, did experience stalling at low RPM. Always used synthetic oils and replaced at regular intervals. Never had a check engine light when stall occurred...pulled over and restarted...intermittent from then on. That was my clue to trade it in.

Rotella T6 5w-40 in my 5.7 I use it in my 392 as well. The reason is it doesn't have the lubrication stripped to meet gasoline oil standards. Rotella used to be gasoline approved until the epa required less zinc and phosphorus because it is dirtier for the environment. So basically we're using oil that's not adequate in my opinion. So for example I believe the epa requires 700ppm or less of phosphorus to be a gas engine oil. Rotella t6 has around 1200-1400 I believe. You would have to research Virgin oil analysis to see what each oil you use had in it. Very interesting if you care to research it. This same kind of thing happened to older diesel trucks when they took sulfur out of the fuel. All the older trucks that needed the lubrication in the fuel started having fuel injection pumps and injectors sticking and seizing. Easy fix is add a little two stroke oil or similar fuel lubricity additive to make up for it. Basically it's not about amount or volume of flow but rather the additive package that makes the oil slick is not adequate. They don't care about the engine over its lifetime they only care about environmental bullshit.

You are on par with the Mopar content. I just can't get enough of it. Cheers

BEST VID ON THIS SUBJECT I HAVE SEEN!! I was told to use some Lucas syn oil conditioner and a quality Wix filter to help with this issue. Keep idle time to a min... My truck has been solid but only 40K on my 2014. Be sure to change the 8 speed tranny oil early!! Mine was dirty at 40 k miles. It is not bad doing it on your own.

This was a very informative video! Very helpful as a new HEMI owner! I'll keep an eye out for it

Excellent information. Thank you. A buddy with a 2009 1500 4WD is experiencing this right now at 180,000 miles. You described every symptom his motor has very well. At least he knows which direction to go now and what manufacturer to go with when he buys his cam and lifters.

I don’t have a dog in this fight, but thank you for consolidating the issues and offering potential remedies. I appreciate the learning opportunity. #feedthealgorithm

I applaud your statistic approach to this issue. There is one other takeaway: it is possible that individual lifter failures could be the result of more than one element present in the engine, ie: poor oil selection or maintenance cycle combined with long idle times. The problem with this particular issue is that it appears the overwhelming majority of engines DO NOT suffer from this type of failure, potentially putting it into the 'random' category.

I have 123,800 miles on my '12 Challenger R/T w/M6 manual trans, most of which were highway miles. It runs flawlessly and shows no signs of letting up. I run AmsOil synthetics in all my vehicles, no problems at all. We also have a '14 300C w/hemi with 66K miles on it that also runs perfectly, especially after shutting off the Godforsaken MDS system on it. Keep oil & filter changed frequently, even with high quality oils, and reduce any engine idling time. Works for me!

Great analysis and I appreciate the objective approach. NGL I was somewhat relived to hear they improved the lifters in 16. I have a 44k miles 2016 sport with the 3.92 rear end and aside from the 2 piece driveshaft replacement (which only helps the thump at launch for 2k miles) I am happy with the motor and trans. It does have MDS/VVT and I enjoy getting around 30mpg @ 45MPH. Around 20k miles I added Z max to the oil and fuel system as well as regularly run injector cleaner at high RPM as I feel it keeps things moving better.

Good video program!!! On both issues, the dropping valve seats and the defective rollers on the lifters; I feel that the reasons why so many earlier designed automotive and industrial engines did NOT develop these types of problems is because they were so much simpler... The earlier engine castings for the heads and the blocks, were made of cast iron... Heavier, than aluminum, yes-usually by 150 -250 lbs... So, when the metals heated up, and the engine reached the normal operating temperatures, the hardened steel valve seats would expand at the same/similar rates that the cast iron heads do... So valve seat separations were extremely uncommon... However, when the heads are made of cast aluminum, the aluminum expands at a greater rate than the hardened steel valve seats do... So special valve seat retention methods are used on aluminum heads to prevent this from happening... But if those special retention devices fail, while the engine is running, MASSIVE internal engine damage occurs to interference type of engines... On the issues with the damaged camshafts & seized lifters, one of the problems that I can see is over-engineering... Too much complexity... So many of the older engine designs had NO lifter/camshaft problems because their camshaft and lifters were located in places where oil drainback from the head(s) drained right on-top of the cams & lifters... Most of the earlier lifters had a flat tappet design... No needle bearings to Seize... Heck, I have an engine in a p/U truck (350 Chevy) that has never been removed from the vehicle since it was built - 45 yards ago... 465k. Miles... Same camshaft, same lifters, I changed the timing set about 360k. Miles ago... The truck still runs very well... Earlier - simpler technology often works so much better , more reliably than the newer/ overpriced / ridiculously over-powered / unreliable / incredibly complex / short-lived designs...

I just replaced some lifters on a 2009 ram 1500 last week. The springs inside the mds lifter on cyl 7 broke and rocker arms popped off and bent the push rod. After installing new lifters, the cam wasnt damaged, It runs fine, no misfires, but has a noticeable tick on the other side of the engine now, Took the valve cover off three times and double checked everything and it seems fine. Even double checked exhaust bolts for tightness. The angle of the pushrods are very extreme and the rockers can slide side to side on the rocker shaft and i think some of my noise is the rocker sliding into the hold down bolt. Old mopars from the 60s with shaft mount rockers has spacer like pieces to keep the rockers pretty much where they are supposed to be. These are terrible engines and I have replaced quite a few whole engines at our shop, but this was the first set of lifters i did. I dont think I will be doing anymore. I just cant stand behind it. Ill just have to keep this one customers truck going for the time being.

My 2010 RT has 204,000 and runs like a clock..... *knock on wood*... That being said, it's whole life has never been late for any service and always used full synthetic. She is also not beat to death. Only idles in traffic and oil is changed every 5K.

Interesting. Very good analysis. I have to say I'm dodging a bullet so far. I've got a '13 300C Luxury that has 126,000 miles on her. I'm the 3rd owner. Bought her with 80,000 miles. Change oil, Valvoline high mileage blended 5W20 every 4,000 to 5,000 miles. Last oil interval was 6,000 miles. That's an exceptional interval as it included a trip Michigan to Florida. But my norm is the 4-5K range. No issues regarding this "Hemi tick". At 100K miles installed long tube headers, Corsa catless cat back exhaust, installed a 180 degree thermostat (factory thermostat is 203 degrees), had a 93 octane tune and had the stock fans programmed to kick on at 180 degrees. Tune was done by Jesse Murray...knows his stuff. Really woke up the car. Have the SRT pages through the Tazer. Car idling in 90 degree heat with the air on, engine temp never goes above 189-190. Just a boulevard cruiser with lots of creature comforts. So yes, I'm dodging a bullet and part of the trouble free 95%.

Can't wait to see a fatal flaw video of the 2.4 Multiair, 3.0 turbo diesel, 2.0t Hurricane.

I’ve installed a Derale oil filter relocation kit with a larger filter and increased oil capacity on my 5.7 Ram 1500 Classic. It’s running a lot smoother. I’ve also gone to a Air Aid Jr intake kit to help with the air/fuel mixture when using poor fuel, it’s worked in my experience.

This happened to my 2011 charger .Paid the dealership to get it fixed , still have my old cam as decoration 😎

Yes. My dad's 2011 Ram 1500 had the issue at 105,000 miles... I bought the truck from him in 2018 at 195,000mi and currently have 220,000mi on it... I occasionally hear the "tick" but I also have an exhaust leak that I need to fix. I'm keeping this truck forever because its sentimental so I pray nothing goes wrong while I'm still in college 😅

Great summary on the Hemi Lifters…Have not had a problem yet, fingers crossed.

Thank God my 2015 5.7 charger pursuit still runs like new, I bought it mid December 2020 , 6 months 115,000 miles on it when I purchased, and 123,200 now, ive had 2 full synthetic oil changes before designated time, and I drive her like a baby, but I do spin a tire once in a while. 😆, im very happy with my eagle Hemi ☺

221,000 on my 07 Charger R/T, still runs and drives great. Never knew there was a problem till I saw this video. I plan to just leave it alone.

Excellent video dude. Liked, subscribed, might buy a 21 hemi cuz of this.

I have an 05 300 c AWD with 425,000 km on it and still going strong in Ontario Canada. Bigger intake and headers ,tuner etc. Still a riot to drive especially in winter. Bought it off a lease with 60,000 on it. Chrysler replaced the engine in 09 with obvious updates in the MDS , as it spun a bearing. Tranny was also replaced under warranty soon after with with water getting into the dipstick. Just put a used tranny in from a another brand and it runs nicer. But miss my high stall torque converter. No regrets. It owes me nothing. Nice that Mopar supplied me with all that warranty!

I had a 2012 Chrysler 300S I bought new. I had 120,000 miles and it happened to my car. Always changed oil with synthetic oil before it’s time was due. Otherwise nothing else happened to the car. Just didn’t want to deal with it and sold it soon after.

Well, I always said I'd have bought a 2010 Challenger with the Hemi had my dad not intercepted me and talked me into driving to the GM dealer where I bought my Camaro SS. I was this close to signing that paperwork on the RT Spring edition in that pretty blue. It had a pistol-grip shifter and the HID's. It was optioned out and I rather enjoyed that test drive. Had he been in the car with me for that car, he probably would have sang a different tune, but I drove that car first solo, then ran into him and he talked me into going to GM to drive the SS, where he did ride with me. That said he already bought a Challenger with the V6 and that dude also has the obnoxious ticking on startup, has for years, and it hasn't died yet. So, maybe he saved me from a catastrophic failure, maybe he didn't. The Camaro only has 30k miles on it after 11 years of ownership, so I imagine had I got the Challenger instead, it would have roughly the same mileage and thus no failure yet anyway.

Thank you for this information!

Might be the most comprehensive video on the subject. My 2013 pursuit developed tick and has sat while I make room in the garage. Hoping cam is ok and can get away with just lifters when I get her opened. Have to say your findings are dead on right in that 2011-13 problem range and high idle hours.

I work at Chrysler. They are not updating the 5.7 hemi. It’s not 100% confirmed but I’ve seen parts and service sheets for a 3.0 inline six turbo replacement. Or as another option. I believe this would have an hybrid option.

This video is GOLD! After all of your research, what are your thoughts on the 180 thermostat to help keep the engine cooler, in-turn helping the oil keep its properties longer? Also love seeing Amsoil SS at the top of your list for good oils 👍

Outstanding in comprehensive job on the video I’m going through this right now currently my 2012 grand Cherokee 5.7 hemi cylinder number three had a misfire. I took it to the local dealer here in Dallas. I have a bumper to bumper Mopar lifetime warranty back in 2018. They don’t offer that anymore. mopar dragging feet right now on the repair decision. Dealer Stated they up to 48 hours to make Ridiculous. Should find out soon We’ll see how well Hobart covers it has a warranty item.

Thank you for the video it’s really full!!

This is a pretty damn solid video! Ive been watching this channel since way before I got my 14 R/T charger and it was probably part of why I got it 🤣. Keep it up marspeed!

This is a great video. Very detailed.. Thank you 😛 I see most wear being in the middle of the engines. Is that what you noticed? When analyzing the rest of the engine, is the wear consistently more toward the center. The center concerns me about heat and lack of lube? Just thinking 😭

I bought a 2013 V8 Dodge Charger R/T with Road&Track Pkg well taken care of for $3000, It had the engine light and the previous owner said It needed a new engine.. Well, I spoke to a friend of the family who is a Mechanic for the air force and he told me that the Camshaft in a lot of the Hemi engines wears out, he recommended me some cams and I ended up buying a Stage 3, paid about 8k total for the car and I love it🥰😍🥰 It sounds like one of those engines from old cars its soo good

I have a 2015 Jeep with Hemi with 189,000 miles. From the day I bought it new I have always had a loud ticking. I have always maintained my Jeep with the dealer, making sure everything recommended was done. Most years I take long trips sometime more than 5,000 miles to get lost in the mountains & deserts, I never wanted a breakdown to be a problem. About a month ago maybe 10-20% of the time on start up my Jeep would barley turn over, then it started idling very rough, then engine light came on. I made appointment with dealer when it started with the hard starts, it took them a month to get me in. Yesterday 11/28/22 they have informed me my engine is "Blown" and it needs replacement. To back up your theory that idling can facilitate this problem I have idled many times for long periods of time over the years. I am fortunate in that I have a lifetime warranty but it still sucks, even more now that I see they knew.

I feel sorry for you that you had to go through all that internet prattle, trashtalk and opinions of self-proclaimed experts. I'm not being ironic, I know that separating facts from opinions is a lot harder work than people thinks.

Aw yeah more Mopar content :D

The first one solve my problem. My car is having a slow tick so it's not in the engine. It sounds a lot like the exhaust leak demo. Thanks for the video

I’m a newbie to the channel and to the 5.7 Hemi. I have a 2011 Ram 1500 Outdoorsman, regular cab, short bed, 2WD. So far, no ticking. It has 112K miles, presumably mostly highway. I’d really like to get caught up on the issue of the lifters failing, the MDS system (good or bad for engine life) and anything else. I just found the video and I’m glad I did. Thanks for sharing this informative video with us. I’m open to suggestions from anyone with regard to the proper care and feeding of the Gen III Hemi.

Uncle Tony's Garage explained this whole issue on this 2009 to present 5.7 Hemi V8

You find this problem in diesel engines with roller lifters like the dt466egr and the isb l I have seen this failure many times and got some great photos of the carnage.

I have a 2011 Ram 1500 Laramie Longhorn, which I bought used with almost 200,000 mile on it. I changed the oil within a week or two of getting it, and about a week or so after doing that (which I had done at the dealership,) it broke a valve spring, sucked the valve into the cylinder and pnched a hole in the block as well as detroying the cylinder head and of course, the piston. I had a used mototr with about 90,000 miles on it out in to replace the destroyed engine, and it has been working fine, for about 10,000 miles or so. I am super nervous about the issue with the lifters, as well as with valve springs. But, I just make sure to get regular oil changes, with synthetic oil, from the dealership, and listen as much as I can to the engine for any changes in the way it sounds... But, I love the power, and the MDS system works pretty good at improving my fuel economy on the highway. I get better mileage with it than I do with my 2001 Durange with the 4.7 in it. On the highway...

I have an 07 Aspen Hemi and I absolutely love the motor. I rebuilt it at 120k just because but I was looking for this issue. To my elation I found that all of the hard parts were practically brand new and I reused all of the hard parts. This is the most simplistic engine I’ve ever worked on. Plus I can tow 9000 pounds and haul 6 passengers . Big fan. But my opinion is they went with a different manufacturer or changed materials.

Can we get a vid on the neons 2.0l

5% of Hemis suffer these problems?? My question would be what is the average percentage of problems ANY engine has?? NO mechanical engine is perfect, I wish I had a 95% success rate when I went to Vegas!!!

Had to change out my lifters and cam on my 2012 Ram 1500 a few months ago. It had 176,000 at the time. It had been ticking for quite a while from both the lifter and the broken studs on the exhaust. #5 cylinder intake lifter was the one which went bad and the #5 exhaust was starting to go. All the other lifters were just fine! Unfortunately, due to cost and availability, I went with a Chinese made replacement which although it works fine so far, the new lifters are very much noisier than the originals. I just hope they last ok. P.S. I did all the labor myself, it took me about 3 days so it only cost me the part cost, about $700, plus a days off pay. I also replaced a few other items while I had it apart including the broken exhaust studs.

I used to have a 09 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi absolutely loved that truck and motor never had any issues with the motor always changed the oil with full synthetic 0w20 during the spring to fall months and 10w20 in the winter would still have it if it hadn't been a total loss due to the frame

I had 52k miles on my 2016 Ram when I developed the tick. Looking into things, the engine had 550hrs of idle time on it. So, the previous owner must have just let it idle all the time. After letting it run for about 10 mins when it the weather was beginning to cool down ( October in NY ) the tick would start to come around after a few mins of running. The dealer replaced all the lifters under warranty. The service manager said that the few he's seen, all the vehicles had high idle hours on them. I'm super anal about using full synthetic oil and changing it out every 3k miles. I know its excessive but to me, its cheap insurance and peace of mind.

The new needle bearings seems to indicate that it could have addressed the flaw. We will see.

Have an '06 jeep commander that wiped the cam and required a whole new engine. There are 5 to one '06 vs other years for sale on marketplace with the blown hemi's. Uncle Tony's garage had the best diagnosis, older engines had the camshaft closer to the crankshaft than the newer LS's and modern hemi's. GM has the same problem too. So they are starved for oil when at idle. There were round 30 videos on KZfaq that had meticulously done maintenance and had it happen with 30K,65K and other low mile vehicles. My mechanic looked at me like i was crazy when i told him that's what it was. He fixed some other stuff that still needed done, but didn't cure the shake in the engine. After a compression check and trying to take the mds solenoids out which are magnetic, they barely got one out because it had so much metal stuck to it. Uncle Tony took one apart and noticed there were score marks on the outside of the lifter, which could have only been caused by oil starvation.

I got into a fleet Ram with a 5.7 and only 30,000 miles in it today. I was surprised to hear the engine tapping/knocking when I started it on what is a next to new truck in 2023. I didn’t realize these engines are known for that.

Great, I’m about to hit 100,000 miles on my Challenger and it’s always had a tick when it starts, usually more noticeable in the cold

My 09 ram 1500 with the 5.7 has 250k all original drivetrain zero mechanical issues except a few water pumps which is also one of the 5.7 weak points

Great video my man.

Hello! I pour liqy moly moligen into my 2011 Ram 1500 r/t hemi . This video is quite enough to make the sales of new hydraulic compensators successful

From an engineering perspective, I definitely believe the needle bearings are the direct cause. For long term / high performance use, these needle bearings should be made from H-13 tool steel and heat treated to a minimum 52 Rk. The case hardening would prevent this issue. As the initial engineer for all DSS drive train components, I can assure you this would eliminate the issue.

I think the 2.7L engine sludge problems was by far the worst for Chrysler.

The lifter tick/knock started on my 2010 ram at 400000kms I sold it when I noticed it. Bought a 2021 ram classic. That many kms for what I put it through was a good long life.

Great video thank you.

Does this affect the 6.4 srt engines? I try to never let it idle for very long due to the oil issue and if it is idling I'll give it a small amount of throttle around 1k rpm to get the oil psi up around 60

I have an 04 5.7 with 160k on it and it runs GRRRRRRRATE👍👍🤣

I had the same thing happen on my 2009 charger SRT. Cylinder 6 developed a misfire, but it was at 183k miles. It was an amazing car up until then.

2012 Gr. Cherokee 5.7. 101k miles. No tick. Running 5-30 Mobil 1. 3000 change interval.. MDS works like new. Unrelated but funny. Running iridium spark plugs. During recall service for the fuel pump relay, the teck said the spark plugs were not compatable with the 5.7 hemi. My response “They have been comparable for the last 40,000 miles.”. Now 60k on the spark plugs. Runs great. Hoping for another 100k.

My 2017 with 8000 miles developed a lifter tick after a sever cold spell. This is the only time it did this. I do a lot of idling. Not too worried, I have a 100000 mile warranty.

Gen 3 Hemi lifter needle bearings too small and too weak. Lifter roller needles were upgraded with thicker needle bearings from 2016 year production. From 2018 another supplier was introduced to supply Hemi lifters. Premature roller failure covers all Gen 3 to 2015. Original PN ended in AA. From 2016 PN changed ending in AB, current lifters end in AC. AB and AC use larger needle bearings. Your observation about needle thickness and possibly metallurgy in pre 2016 or pre 2019 roller needle revisions likely closer to truth.

read the article you showed on screen and found the johnson part number (2356) - it reads like you need to disable MDS for these lifters, or is that just if you go with an aggressive cam?

My 06 has 250k miles. It does have the hemi tick, but im not for sure if its broken header bolt or something else. She runs like a champ. I keep the fluids changed.

Needs to be a class action against Chrysler. I want my money for the rebuild back.

"That thing got a hemi!?" *tick tick tick* "yeah..."

2009 Ram 1500 currently at 156,160 miles. Purchased August 2014 with 45,000 miles on it. Normal daily driving so no extended idle time. Always changed oil every 6000 miles with Mobil 1 5W-20 synthetic and a Mopar oil filter. Never had problems from the engine. BTW, it appears the HEMI is being discontinued in cars and light duty trucks in favor of a twin turbo I6.

183k miles on my 2006 Jeep 5.7 still running strong

The eagle revision doesn't have any more issues than a regular ls with dod

Please stop this outrage of lifter issues and cam shaft aswell. Change your damn oil every 3,000 plus your filter and use very high end oil. Won't have a problem .there are countless 5.7 eagle engines with well over 100,000 miles and zero issues. I mean every other damn truck on the road is a 5.7 Ram. Lol. Stop it you guys its not that bad. Fucks sake! SMH

We have a 2013 Jeep Hemi with only 50,000 miles. Always used 5w-20 and no Hemi tick. Even started using higher ZDDP oil (Royal Purple HPS) to further preserve it lol. I also refuse to idle it excessively.

2014 Jeep GC SRT 6.4 hemi has same issues. My #3 cylinder developed misfires and ticking at the same time, 122000 miles. Oil changes have been regular using the recommended Pennzoil Premium 10-40. New lifters and camshaft close to $6,000 to repair.

I blame you mds

Chrysler's response is typical of American manufacturers. This is why the Japanese have taken over so many markets.

The Mopar God back wit another one

Nice research 🧐...

I just got the header bolt tick on my 2018 charger RT. Now I can justify long tube headers! 😁

VIDEO MOLTO BEN FATTO GRAZIE !

Well done sir!

The photo of the lifter Pin @8:08 is my lifter out of my car. Lifters do have separate oil lubrication beyond the pushrods. The lack of heat stressed discoloration proves there is plenty of oiling. I cna send you better photos of this including photo of the lifter bore oiling gallies. The idea cranksplash is a lubrication issue a joke IMO as the fact the hemi comes with an integrated windage tray also proves this. A new-er theory I and several others are now proposing the idea the valve springs are weak allowing the lifters to lifter off, and rap on the cam surface (have photos of this damage) which would increase the wear on the pins and make sense of the markings found on cams. I would be very happy to share all of this with you (photos ) if you wish.

Great vid!!!!!!!!!!

I have that flaw right nownin my ram whichbhas 168k on it. Took it into a shop , doing a complete cam upgrade, lifters, springs the whole thing with MDS delete. Gotta love thw aftermarket for a better solution vs FCA

I have a 2013 Ram 1500 5.7L with the 65RFE 6spd transmission and it has right at 150k miles on it. So far it has been a damn good truck with the only issues being electrical and of course the exhaust manifold bolts breaking. I don't use synthetic oil but I do change the oil every 3000 miles like clockwork, even though it could probably go until 5000 before changing with no issues. I hope it will continue to hold up. Other than the tick on cold starts from the exhaust manifold bolts, it runs like a champ. So fingers crossed 🤞

215,000 miles on my 2003 ram 1500 still running strong. I’ve been driving it like it’s stolen since I brought it home new. It developed an annoying tick soon after I bought it and disappeared at about 120,000 miles. 🤷‍♂️

So between this and dropped valve seats in the older 5.7's, whats the best 6th gen Charger to buy?

It seems that the best is to take preventive maintenance action. Replace existing lifters with heavy duty rather than solids . But more efficient operation. Check valve lifter clearances with feeler gauge.Connfirm the cam condition.

This ring true to us in the GM side with the DOD system in the 5.3-6.2 cars and trucks.

I get the Hemi Tick on my 2016 RAM Truck when I first start up. It goes does away after a couple of minutes, I was worried it was a valve tap issue. Is it common for manifold bolts to break? Or is it that they become loose? Thanks for the Video. I also get it on my 2014 Jeep Hemi. Only if I start the engine for a very short time. Then let the engine cool. It will tap for a few minutes the next time a start, I know, sounds weird.

I have a 2012 ram 1500 regular cab with 191000km. changed the oil regularly always used mobile one full synthetic. never towed anything but my 5th cylinder failed. The lifters failed and the cam failed and scored the block lots of deep scratches in the block. I had to put a rebuilt engine back into it it. Runs like new now

I know this is old video post BUT verdict!! What weight oil should be used in a 09 charger R/T w/5.7? And also is it okay to put a bottle of thick amsoil oil stabilizer in it? Quick response much appreciated

I’m actually doing this repair on my brothers 2009 ram 1500. It threw a engine light for a misfire on cylinder 3 or 5 before we had new plugs coils and injectors then we started researching and found out it was the lifters failing

My 14' Charger has had no issue with this thus far. 86,000 miles and runs like a top. I do my own oil changes, and do them on time. Mine was also assembled after the bankruptcy issue was resolved, so "knock on wood"